Titebond 2 or any of it's competitors like elmer's. You want a yellow
wood glue. You could also use a polyurethane glue like gorilla glue,
but I've never used them before. I hear that their open times are
longer which can help with a big glue-up, that they foam instead of
squeezing out which is harder to clean up, and if you get it on your
hands, you're branded for life.
Clamp everything.
You know, it really sounds like you need to take two months off from
woodworking and just watch the new yankee workshop and woodworks.
Those shows are priceless.
brian
>What is the best glue
Agreed - titebond II is a great all-purpose, fairly inexpensive glue.
Somewhat water resistant, which shouldn't matter for indoor furniture.
That's what I'm using for most of the joints on my current bed project.
Fairly short open time, though. I like Gorilla glue (or some other
brand of polyurethane glue that costs less than Gorilla) for some
things - the longer open time (20-30 min instead of 5 min with TBII) is
helpful. I think the foaming is actually easier to clean up - it's
fairly soft, and doesn't seem to soak into wood and interfere with
finishing as much as yellow glue. If you wash your hands before it
dries, it's not too bad. One important thing to note with polyurethane
glue - it needs moisture to cure. If the air is very moist, that's
probably enough, but it usually helps to lightly moisten one or both
surfaces prior to glueing.
Good luck and keep reading,
Andy
Titebond offers a slow set (Extend?) yellow glue. Also Titebond III
advertises a longer open time altho its more expensive and you don't really
need it to be waterproof. Gorilla glue? Its almost impossible to avoid the
foam out and if your taking about glueing all those slats on the bed you may
not live long enough to scrape it all off once it cures. I know stair guys
who use Gorilla glue for custom laminated bent rails for both its longer
open time and the fact that it will not creep under tension like yellow glue
when cured. But its a lot easier to scrape off a continuous surface than
around that many joints.
"stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What is the best glue for making furnature like the misison bed I have
> been talking about?
>
I've got a bottle of it right here. I guess if I look close enough, it does
have a slight yellow tinge. Nothing like the regular stuff though.
"Max Mahanke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> White, yellow - There's more to it than that.
>
http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB.ASP?UserType=1&ProdSel=ProdSelectorIntroTB.asp
> I guess I should have been more specific, I was referring to Titebond II
> Extend which is a PVA Type II 'yellow' glue. The original Extend is an
> Aliphatic Resin glue and is also yellow but not water resistant. In
either
> case, we're talking 15 min. vrs the 5 min open time of premium Titebond II
> at about the same bond strength.
>
> "CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Extend is white.
> >
> > "Max Mahanke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Titebond offers a slow set (Extend?) yellow glue. Also Titebond III
> > > advertises a longer open time altho its more expensive and you don't
> > really
> > > need it to be waterproof. Gorilla glue? Its almost impossible to
avoid
> > the
> > > foam out and if your taking about glueing all those slats on the bed
you
> > may
> > > not live long enough to scrape it all off once it cures. I know stair
> > guys
> > > who use Gorilla glue for custom laminated bent rails for both its
longer
> > > open time and the fact that it will not creep under tension like
yellow
> > glue
> > > when cured. But its a lot easier to scrape off a continuous surface
> than
> > > around that many joints.
> > >
> > > "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > What is the best glue for making furnature like the misison bed I
have
> > > > been talking about?
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
brianlanning wrote:
> Titebond 2 or any of it's competitors like elmer's. You want a yellow
> wood glue. You could also use a polyurethane glue like gorilla glue,
> but I've never used them before. I hear that their open times are
> longer which can help with a big glue-up, that they foam instead of
> squeezing out which is harder to clean up, and if you get it on your
> hands, you're branded for life.
>
> Clamp everything.
>
> You know, it really sounds like you need to take two months off from
> woodworking and just watch the new yankee workshop and woodworks.
> Those shows are priceless.
>
> brian
>
Whats wrong with using TiteBond Original?
--
Thank you,
"Then said I, Wisdom [is] better than strength: nevertheless the poor
man's wisdom [is] despised, and his words are not heard." Ecclesiastes 9:16
White, yellow - There's more to it than that.
http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB.ASP?UserType=1&ProdSel=ProdSelectorIntroTB.asp
I guess I should have been more specific, I was referring to Titebond II
Extend which is a PVA Type II 'yellow' glue. The original Extend is an
Aliphatic Resin glue and is also yellow but not water resistant. In either
case, we're talking 15 min. vrs the 5 min open time of premium Titebond II
at about the same bond strength.
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Extend is white.
>
> "Max Mahanke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Titebond offers a slow set (Extend?) yellow glue. Also Titebond III
> > advertises a longer open time altho its more expensive and you don't
> really
> > need it to be waterproof. Gorilla glue? Its almost impossible to avoid
> the
> > foam out and if your taking about glueing all those slats on the bed you
> may
> > not live long enough to scrape it all off once it cures. I know stair
> guys
> > who use Gorilla glue for custom laminated bent rails for both its longer
> > open time and the fact that it will not creep under tension like yellow
> glue
> > when cured. But its a lot easier to scrape off a continuous surface
than
> > around that many joints.
> >
> > "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > What is the best glue for making furnature like the misison bed I have
> > > been talking about?
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Extend is white.
"Max Mahanke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Titebond offers a slow set (Extend?) yellow glue. Also Titebond III
> advertises a longer open time altho its more expensive and you don't
really
> need it to be waterproof. Gorilla glue? Its almost impossible to avoid
the
> foam out and if your taking about glueing all those slats on the bed you
may
> not live long enough to scrape it all off once it cures. I know stair
guys
> who use Gorilla glue for custom laminated bent rails for both its longer
> open time and the fact that it will not creep under tension like yellow
glue
> when cured. But its a lot easier to scrape off a continuous surface than
> around that many joints.
>
> "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > What is the best glue for making furnature like the misison bed I have
> > been talking about?
> >
>
>
On 10 Feb 2006 10:58:29 -0800, "stryped" <[email protected]> wrote:
>What is the best glue for making furnature like the misison bed I have
>been talking about?
Woodworker's yellow glue. If you are using a dark wood such as
walnut, there are "dark" woodworker's glues available. I like Elmer's
(my personal preference) or Titebond. Although very strong, wood glue
is no substitute for a well-made slightly snug-fitting joint.