Water based glaze

David,

There really isn't much to it. Essentially, you need just enough color pigment
to give the color you want and enough paint thinner to make it thin and
transparent. Some added linseed oil aids in smoothness of application and
prevents too rapid drying. It always pays to do a little practice work first.

There are two things you should keep in mind. The first is that you can make oil
based stains with artists oil paint and paint thinner plus a little linseed oil.
Applying additional layers of this stain will not give you a true toner effect,
but only a darker stain.

For a true toner, there should be a layer of clear finish or clear sealer over
the stain. Then the thin transparent darker toner you put over it will reflect
some light while also reflecting light from the stain below. Of course, you will
need a final clear finish over it. One time I wanted an older, slightly darker
and more mellow look so I used a very thin purple toner. Black would have made
it darker, but black is a color killer.

It is essential that the toner be well mixed. Take the time to do it right and
you can even filter it through cloth. Don't know if a coffee filter will work. I
always wipe the toner on with a rag.

You don't have to buy the most expensive oil paints. I think it is Wal-Mart that
carries the Daler-Rowney line. These cheaper paints have a little less pigment
and some added inert filler and they work fine. However, buy the artist's
refined linseed oil so that yellowing over time will never be a problem.

Stewart





David P wrote:

> Could you tell me exactly how to mix up the glaze using the stuff you
> mentioned below? I bought a can of commercial glaze once and it just about
> broke my bank account. Would be very helpful if I could mix up my own
> glaze/toner in the amounts that I want to use for a project.
>
> David.
>
> "Stewart Schooley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Todd,
> >
> > When using finish in woodworking, a glaze is usually called a toner. They
> > are the same and always consist of a thin transparent darker color applied
> > over a lighter color. For example, if a thin transparent blue is applied
> > over a yellow, some light will be reflected by the blue and some will
> > penetrate the blue and be reflected back through the blue by the yellow.
> > This will give an optically mixed green that can't be achieved by the
> > direct mixing of color.
> >
> > Some pigments are naturally more transparent and fortunately they are
> > almost always darker colors. Burnt Sienna, Burnt Umber, Van Dyke Brown,
> > Alizarin Crimson, and Ultramarine Blue will all make good glazes. The
> > Alizarin and Ultramarine will make a good purple and can be adjusted to a
> > reddish or bluish purple. Transparent greens aren't common and I think
> > your best bet is Permanent Green Light.
> >
> > I have used these colors [artist's oil based] many times in the past to
> > make adjustments to oil based stain colors and used oil based finish over
> > it. When using small amountsof oil paint with stains I've found that Deft
> > lacquer will work without problems.
> >
> > I recommend that you stick with oil based colors and forget water based.
> > Get the oil based colors, some paint thinner, linseed oil, and some scrap
> > wood to practice on. The linseed oil will aid in making the color
> > transparent and will make for a smoother application, but will increase
> > the drying time some.
> >
> > I think you have an interesting project. Let me know how it works out for
> > you.
> >
> > Stewart
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > todd1814 wrote:
> >
> > > Not to start a debate on making wood unrecognizable - but - I'm trying
> > > out some different types of finishes to see what I like and have a
> > > question about glaze. I ran across an article on mixing glaze with
> > > oil paint (for artists) to get a deeper, richer color. All I can find
> > > is water based glaze and I wanted to know if I can still mix it with
> > > artists oil paint. My assumption is no, oil and water don't mix but I
> > > thought I'd see if anyone here knows or has an opinion. If I can't
> > > mix it with oil paints, what should I use to color it?
> > >
> > > I'm working with Red Oak for the first time and trying to find a
> > > finish that I like. I'm building an arcade machine that looks a lot
> > > like a small table. (Remember the cocktail arcade machines?) I'm
> > > trying to make it look less like an arcade machine and more like a
> > > piece of furniture so I can keep it in the living room. Any
> > > suggestions?
> >

Could you tell me exactly how to mix up the glaze using the stuff you
mentioned below? I bought a can of commercial glaze once and it just about
broke my bank account. Would be very helpful if I could mix up my own
glaze/toner in the amounts that I want to use for a project.

David.

"Stewart Schooley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Todd,
>
> When using finish in woodworking, a glaze is usually called a toner. They
> are the same and always consist of a thin transparent darker color applied
> over a lighter color. For example, if a thin transparent blue is applied
> over a yellow, some light will be reflected by the blue and some will
> penetrate the blue and be reflected back through the blue by the yellow.
> This will give an optically mixed green that can't be achieved by the
> direct mixing of color.
>
> Some pigments are naturally more transparent and fortunately they are
> almost always darker colors. Burnt Sienna, Burnt Umber, Van Dyke Brown,
> Alizarin Crimson, and Ultramarine Blue will all make good glazes. The
> Alizarin and Ultramarine will make a good purple and can be adjusted to a
> reddish or bluish purple. Transparent greens aren't common and I think
> your best bet is Permanent Green Light.
>
> I have used these colors [artist's oil based] many times in the past to
> make adjustments to oil based stain colors and used oil based finish over
> it. When using small amountsof oil paint with stains I've found that Deft
> lacquer will work without problems.
>
> I recommend that you stick with oil based colors and forget water based.
> Get the oil based colors, some paint thinner, linseed oil, and some scrap
> wood to practice on. The linseed oil will aid in making the color
> transparent and will make for a smoother application, but will increase
> the drying time some.
>
> I think you have an interesting project. Let me know how it works out for
> you.
>
> Stewart
>
>
>
>
>
> todd1814 wrote:
>
> > Not to start a debate on making wood unrecognizable - but - I'm trying
> > out some different types of finishes to see what I like and have a
> > question about glaze. I ran across an article on mixing glaze with
> > oil paint (for artists) to get a deeper, richer color. All I can find
> > is water based glaze and I wanted to know if I can still mix it with
> > artists oil paint. My assumption is no, oil and water don't mix but I
> > thought I'd see if anyone here knows or has an opinion. If I can't
> > mix it with oil paints, what should I use to color it?
> >
> > I'm working with Red Oak for the first time and trying to find a
> > finish that I like. I'm building an arcade machine that looks a lot
> > like a small table. (Remember the cocktail arcade machines?) I'm
> > trying to make it look less like an arcade machine and more like a
> > piece of furniture so I can keep it in the living room. Any
> > suggestions?
>

Yes, no you can't. Oil and water do not mix!

You can mix in dry pigments or any colorant that is water based.

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"todd1814" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Not to start a debate on making wood unrecognizable - but - I'm trying
> out some different types of finishes to see what I like and have a
> question about glaze. I ran across an article on mixing glaze with
> oil paint (for artists) to get a deeper, richer color. All I can find
> is water based glaze and I wanted to know if I can still mix it with
> artists oil paint. My assumption is no, oil and water don't mix but I
> thought I'd see if anyone here knows or has an opinion. If I can't
> mix it with oil paints, what should I use to color it?
>
> I'm working with Red Oak for the first time and trying to find a
> finish that I like. I'm building an arcade machine that looks a lot
> like a small table. (Remember the cocktail arcade machines?) I'm
> trying to make it look less like an arcade machine and more like a
> piece of furniture so I can keep it in the living room. Any
> suggestions?