I recently got 60 feet of 1.5" x 3" hard maple for free. I decided to make a rather large cutting/chopping board. What is the
consensus on the best glue for this application?
TIA,
--
Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know
for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
I have a bottle of Titebond 2. Do you thing it will hold up?
--
Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know
for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 16:59:11 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Al Reid" writes:
> >> I recently got 60 feet of 1.5" x 3" hard maple for free. I decided to
> >make a rather large cutting/chopping board. What is the
> >> consensus on the best glue for this application?
> >
> >Not absolutely necessary but my choice would be epoxy.
> >
> >After it is cured, it is inert, waterproof, and the joints won't fail.
>
> Ditto. I'm thinking of trying Titebond 3 on one though, just to see
> how it holds up.
>
> JP
On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 11:23:20 -0700, "TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Sure. Titebond 2 or 3 will be fine.
I dun think so, Titebond 2 is "water resistance" and TItebond 3 is "water
proof".
Woodcraft stock Titebond 3 last week, I bought a bottle to try, and the
saleperson asked me to let him know the result after I use it.
>Dave
>
>"Al Reid" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I have a bottle of Titebond 2. Do you thing it will hold up?
>>
>> --
>> Al Reid
>>
>> "It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you
>know
>> for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
>>
>> "Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> > On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 16:59:11 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
>> > <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >
>> > >
>> > >"Al Reid" writes:
>> > >> I recently got 60 feet of 1.5" x 3" hard maple for free. I decided
>to
>> > >make a rather large cutting/chopping board. What is the
>> > >> consensus on the best glue for this application?
>> > >
>> > >Not absolutely necessary but my choice would be epoxy.
>> > >
>> > >After it is cured, it is inert, waterproof, and the joints won't fail.
>> >
>> > Ditto. I'm thinking of trying Titebond 3 on one though, just to see
>> > how it holds up.
>> >
>> > JP
>>
>>
>
>
>
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"Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 20:35:08 -0600, WD <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 11:23:20 -0700, "TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >>Sure. Titebond 2 or 3 will be fine.
> >
> >I dun think so, Titebond 2 is "water resistance" and TItebond 3 is "water
> >proof".
> >
> >Woodcraft stock Titebond 3 last week, I bought a bottle to try, and the
> >saleperson asked me to let him know the result after I use it.
>
> Hmmm...I smell a Product Test in the offing. We've got T1, 2 and 3 at
> the shop, so mebbe I'll glue up some test joints and see how they fair
> under various (wet) conditions.
Please post your results as I am quite interested in them. I am looking for the best glue for this application and can asfford to
wait. My goal is to have it completed by late august when the tomatoes, jalepinos and tomatillos are ripe and ready for salsa
making.
TIA,
--
Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know
for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
>
> I'm thinking about gluing several sets of two .75x2x6" boards
> together with a 3" overlap. I'll then let the boards cure for at
> least the recommended time period and then soak them for a period of
> time. Last step will be to clamp one in a vise and figure out some
> way of testing the load limit.... Any suggestions? I'd prefer to
> have somewhat meaningful results.
>
> JP
"patriarch [email protected]>" <<patriarch> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> "Al Reid" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > I have a bottle of Titebond 2. Do you thing it will hold up?
> >
>
> Probably just fine. But Titebond 3 is supposed to be absolutely wonderful,
> making you look 20 years younger, 20 pounds lighter, reverse global
> warming, and sort out all the discord in the Middle East. Or something
> like that.
>
> It's a cutting board. Use almost any glue in your shop with the maple, and
> you're going to get 10 years of hard use. Secure the laminations with
> dowels during your glue up, assuming edge or long grain orientation, and it
> will likely outlive you, no matter how old you are today.
Any thoughts on biscuits as opposed to dowels? I am not sure I could drill accurately enough w/o a drill press.
--
Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know
for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
>
> IMO, the accuracy of the flattening of the to be glued surfaces is probably
> more critical than the choice of glue.
>
> Patriarch
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> "Al Reid" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Any thoughts on biscuits as opposed to dowels? I am not sure I could
> drill accurately enough w/o a drill press.
> >
>
>
> Neither. Just apply glue and clamp the boards. Consider this. Glue in
> general is stronger than the wood itself when used in line with the grain.
> Most often if the glue and or joint is not compromised the wood breaks
> before the glued joint line. Dowels and or biscuits simply reinforce and
> make the wood itself stronger and add more strength when attaching a piece
> by it's end grain. Biscuits will assist in alignment in any application and
> dowels work better when attaching long pieces of wood at their ends where
> the glue does not hold well at all.
>
>
Leon,
Ok, I will just use glue. BTW, what was your recommended glue?
--
Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know
for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> As a P.S here, as with any thing you glue, be sure to totally cover the
> surface to be glued with glue. Do not just run a wavy bead of glue on the
> surface. Coat the entire surface. You can spread the glue with a stiff
> piece of plastic similar to a credit card.
>
>
Leon,
Thanks for the input. I guess I will go out and get some TiteBond III.
I always use an acid brush to spread the glue. The credit card may, however, be a better option in this case.
--
Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know
for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
>
On Tue, 22 Jun 2004 07:15:05 -0400, "Al Reid" <[email protected]> wrote:
Care to send me some as I did not plant any this year:-)?
>Please post your results as I am quite interested in them. I am looking for the best glue
>for this application and can asfford to wait. My goal is to have it completed by late august
>when the tomatoes, jalepinos and tomatillos are ripe and ready for salsa making.
>
>TIA,
I know that the Titebond III container says "Waterproof" right on the front
of it, but it also says "Not for continuous submersion or for use below the
waterline". That sounds more like "water resistant" that "waterproof".
Wayne
"WD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 11:23:20 -0700, "TeamCasa" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
> >Sure. Titebond 2 or 3 will be fine.
>
> I dun think so, Titebond 2 is "water resistance" and TItebond 3 is "water
> proof".
>
> Woodcraft stock Titebond 3 last week, I bought a bottle to try, and the
> saleperson asked me to let him know the result after I use it.
>
> >Dave
>>>>>>>>> Major Snipping <<<<<<<<<<<
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
> I always use elmers (or equivalent) white glue. They're milk based, and are
> safe for food items.
>
Milk based???? I doubt it. That would make it a casein glue,
wouldn't it? I thought it was a polyvinyl compound.
--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
Sure. Titebond 2 or 3 will be fine.
Dave
"Al Reid" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a bottle of Titebond 2. Do you thing it will hold up?
>
> --
> Al Reid
>
> "It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you
know
> for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
>
> "Jay Pique" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 16:59:11 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >"Al Reid" writes:
> > >> I recently got 60 feet of 1.5" x 3" hard maple for free. I decided
to
> > >make a rather large cutting/chopping board. What is the
> > >> consensus on the best glue for this application?
> > >
> > >Not absolutely necessary but my choice would be epoxy.
> > >
> > >After it is cured, it is inert, waterproof, and the joints won't fail.
> >
> > Ditto. I'm thinking of trying Titebond 3 on one though, just to see
> > how it holds up.
> >
> > JP
>
>
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> >Sure. Titebond 2 or 3 will be fine.
>
> I dun think so, Titebond 2 is "water resistance" and TItebond 3 is "water
> proof".
>
I know that testimonial evidence is always suspect however, I made a Maple
cutting board and knife holder some 15 years ago and they have held up to
virtually daily use with no problems. Edge glued only with yellow
carpenters glue, I don't remember the actual brand.
It is after all only a cutting board.
Dave
PS The last one I made, I did use Titebond 3. I'll check back in another 15
years and let you know if its still holding up.
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On Sat, 26 Jun 2004 21:03:55 -0400, Jay Pique <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 23:52:13 -0400, Jay Pique <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>Hmmm...I smell a Product Test in the offing. We've got T1, 2 and 3 at
>>the shop, so mebbe I'll glue up some test joints and see how they fair
>>under various (wet) conditions.
>>
>>I'm thinking about gluing several sets of two .75x2x6" boards
>>together with a 3" overlap. I'll then let the boards cure for at
>>least the recommended time period and then soak them for a period of
>>time. Last step will be to clamp one in a vise and figure out some
>>way of testing the load limit.... Any suggestions? I'd prefer to
>>have somewhat meaningful results.
>
>OK, I've glued up 3 sets each of T1, T2, T3 and Gorilla Glue, and am
>planning on soaking them tomorrow. What time intervals do you think I
>should attempt to break them at? I'm thinking the first set after 4
>hours, the second after 12, and the third after 24 or 48. Does this
>sound reasonable?
>
>JP
What if you clamped one end horizontally to a bench and tied a rope
around the other end with a weight hanging on it? Add weight until
something breaks.
--
John, in Minnesota
First thought is to check the water temperature. Another is to give an
extended cure time, just to be sure. Also, if you're going to stress with
increasing weight until the joint fails, I'd include a test board for each
glue, which did _not_ get soaked in water.
I also suspect most wet-failures are gradual. That the glue becomes more
plastic, and becomes subject to creep and slow fracture. IOW, a much smaller
(than load limit) weight when applied for several hours might well pull apart
the joint. This could happen even if the soaked board showed the same weight
limit as the unsoaked one.
Yet another factor, once you've found some failures, is if some of the
strength returns when the wood is fully dry again.
GerryG
On Sat, 26 Jun 2004 20:40:25 -0500, "John, in MN" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Sat, 26 Jun 2004 21:03:55 -0400, Jay Pique <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 23:52:13 -0400, Jay Pique <[email protected]>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>Hmmm...I smell a Product Test in the offing. We've got T1, 2 and 3 at
>>>the shop, so mebbe I'll glue up some test joints and see how they fair
>>>under various (wet) conditions.
>>>
>>>I'm thinking about gluing several sets of two .75x2x6" boards
>>>together with a 3" overlap. I'll then let the boards cure for at
>>>least the recommended time period and then soak them for a period of
>>>time. Last step will be to clamp one in a vise and figure out some
>>>way of testing the load limit.... Any suggestions? I'd prefer to
>>>have somewhat meaningful results.
>>
>>OK, I've glued up 3 sets each of T1, T2, T3 and Gorilla Glue, and am
>>planning on soaking them tomorrow. What time intervals do you think I
>>should attempt to break them at? I'm thinking the first set after 4
>>hours, the second after 12, and the third after 24 or 48. Does this
>>sound reasonable?
>>
>>JP
>
>What if you clamped one end horizontally to a bench and tied a rope
>around the other end with a weight hanging on it? Add weight until
>something breaks.
"Al Reid" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Any thoughts on biscuits as opposed to dowels? I am not sure I could
drill accurately enough w/o a drill press.
>
Neither. Just apply glue and clamp the boards. Consider this. Glue in
general is stronger than the wood itself when used in line with the grain.
Most often if the glue and or joint is not compromised the wood breaks
before the glued joint line. Dowels and or biscuits simply reinforce and
make the wood itself stronger and add more strength when attaching a piece
by it's end grain. Biscuits will assist in alignment in any application and
dowels work better when attaching long pieces of wood at their ends where
the glue does not hold well at all.
> I recently got 60 feet of 1.5" x 3" hard maple for free. I decided to
make a rather large cutting/chopping board. What is the
> consensus on the best glue for this application?
Personally I'd get online and do some research for a food-grade woodglue.
But I also agree with j.duprie on using white school glue, safe for kids if
they decide to eat some for a snack. Regular white glue is what used to be
used in furniture factories, still very strong stuff. Besides, even if you
soaked the finished and dried cutting board in water and it fell apart, the
wood would be ruined by warping anyway.
Alex
"Al Reid" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I always use an acid brush to spread the glue. The credit card may,
however, be a better option in this case.
LOL, I almost always use that type brush and I plunk it into a glass of
water to keep it from drying out during the day.
The credit card is faster on wide surfaces.
>
> --
> Al Reid
>
> "It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you
know
> for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
>
>
> >
>
>
That sounds a lot like hide glue to me.
Wilson
"AArDvarK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:gCHBc.6253$5t2.3375@fed1read01...
>
> > I always use elmers (or equivalent) white glue. They're milk based, and
are
> > safe for food items. As long as your not doing a soak in hot water, the
glue
> > will hold. Long exposure to water can make it let go.....
> -
>
> I believe white glue is made from animal bones and cartilage, hooves and
horns,
> sometimes hide and all coming from the meat industry. Not milk.
>
> Alex
>
>
"Al Reid" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >
> Leon,
>
> Ok, I will just use glue. BTW, what was your recommended glue?
The cutting board that I made in Jr. High in 1969 is still holding up well
with being soaked daily. At that time I used Weld Wood. This was a dry
power glue that you mixed with water.
Since, there have been many water proof glues that are easier to use.
Titebond 3 will probably be great for this application. I do not recommend
the #2 as I have had a butcher block fail at the joints that were in fact
reinforced with 3/4" dowels. I built that butcher block in 1980 and 6 years
later the joints began to fail. This butcher block saw a lot of use and
water. The dowels did not prevent failure of the joint, they simply
prevented the butcher block from falling apart then the joint failed.
Still, the butcher block was useless. #2 is "Weather Resistant", not "Water
Proof". The Titebond #3 is stated as being water proof.
I'd go with Titebond #3.
"John" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Titebond 2 is water resistant, should work fine if you are not soaking
> the cutting board, but Titebond 3 is basically WaterProof
Look at the Titebond 2 bottle again, it is "Weather Resistant", not Water
Resistant. Weather resistant could include dampness, heat, cold, sunlight.
"Al Reid" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I have a bottle of Titebond 2. Do you thing it will hold up?
>
Probably just fine. But Titebond 3 is supposed to be absolutely wonderful,
making you look 20 years younger, 20 pounds lighter, reverse global
warming, and sort out all the discord in the Middle East. Or something
like that.
It's a cutting board. Use almost any glue in your shop with the maple, and
you're going to get 10 years of hard use. Secure the laminations with
dowels during your glue up, assuming edge or long grain orientation, and it
will likely outlive you, no matter how old you are today.
IMO, the accuracy of the flattening of the to be glued surfaces is probably
more critical than the choice of glue.
Patriarch
In article <gCHBc.6253$5t2.3375@fed1read01>,
AArDvarK <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I always use elmers (or equivalent) white glue. They're milk based, and are
>> safe for food items. As long as your not doing a soak in hot water, the glue
>> will hold. Long exposure to water can make it let go.....
>-
>
>I believe white glue is made from animal bones and cartilage, hooves and horns,
>sometimes hide and all coming from the meat industry. Not milk.
>
>Alex
>
>
I believe you both are mistaken.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Al Reid writes:
>
>> Please post your results as I am quite interested in them. I am looking
>for the best glue for this application and can asfford to
>> wait.
><snip>
>
>After epoxy, it's all down hill.
That's my opinion as of now. I think I'll add some Gorilla Glue into
the mix as well, for the sake of comparison. I'm betting that GG does
better than T3.....any takers?
JP
On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 20:35:08 -0600, WD <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 11:23:20 -0700, "TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Sure. Titebond 2 or 3 will be fine.
>
>I dun think so, Titebond 2 is "water resistance" and TItebond 3 is "water
>proof".
>
>Woodcraft stock Titebond 3 last week, I bought a bottle to try, and the
>saleperson asked me to let him know the result after I use it.
Hmmm...I smell a Product Test in the offing. We've got T1, 2 and 3 at
the shop, so mebbe I'll glue up some test joints and see how they fair
under various (wet) conditions.
I'm thinking about gluing several sets of two .75x2x6" boards
together with a 3" overlap. I'll then let the boards cure for at
least the recommended time period and then soak them for a period of
time. Last step will be to clamp one in a vise and figure out some
way of testing the load limit.... Any suggestions? I'd prefer to
have somewhat meaningful results.
JP
I always use elmers (or equivalent) white glue. They're milk based, and are
safe for food items. As long as your not doing a soak in hot water, the glue
will hold. Long exposure to water can make it let go.....
I've got a couple in my kitchen that Im ade 5-6 years ago, and they're
holding together fine...
YMMV
--JD
"Al Reid" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I recently got 60 feet of 1.5" x 3" hard maple for free. I decided to
make a rather large cutting/chopping board. What is the
> consensus on the best glue for this application?
>
> TIA,
>
> --
> Al Reid
>
> "It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you
know
> for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
>
>
Titebond 2 is water resistant, should work fine if you are not soaking
the cutting board, but Titebond 3 is basically WaterProof
John
On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 13:00:27 -0400, "Al Reid"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a bottle of Titebond 2. Do you thing it will hold up?
> I always use elmers (or equivalent) white glue. They're milk based, and are
> safe for food items. As long as your not doing a soak in hot water, the glue
> will hold. Long exposure to water can make it let go.....
-
I believe white glue is made from animal bones and cartilage, hooves and horns,
sometimes hide and all coming from the meat industry. Not milk.
Alex
On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 16:59:11 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Al Reid" writes:
>> I recently got 60 feet of 1.5" x 3" hard maple for free. I decided to
>make a rather large cutting/chopping board. What is the
>> consensus on the best glue for this application?
>
>Not absolutely necessary but my choice would be epoxy.
>
>After it is cured, it is inert, waterproof, and the joints won't fail.
Ditto. I'm thinking of trying Titebond 3 on one though, just to see
how it holds up.
JP
On Tue, 22 Jun 2004 15:08:16 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Al Reid" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I always use an acid brush to spread the glue. The credit card may,
>however, be a better option in this case.
>
>LOL, I almost always use that type brush and I plunk it into a glass of
>water to keep it from drying out during the day.
>
>The credit card is faster on wide surfaces.
I've been using a 4" long bolt attached to a handle to spread glue on
edges lately. It really works well - and I think that someone here on
the wreck wreckommended it. The threads sort of smear out the glue
into an evenly lined coat. Sort of like a pair of corduroys. Thanks!
JP
One suggestion comes to mind here. Instead of simply a load limit, a failure
under constant stress might (maybe) apply more. I'm thinking of three
exaggerated cauls, each glued together, then a screw threaded in one piece
applying tension against the other. You could then leave them soak for days or
weeks, checking once in a while. The idea here (unlike the load limit) is that
the water will first soften the exposed glue line, and subsequent stress will
cause that part of the bond to fracture, allowing water to penetrate further
and repeat the process.
In either case, I'd be very interested in your results.
GerryG
On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 23:52:13 -0400, Jay Pique <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 20:35:08 -0600, WD <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 11:23:20 -0700, "TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>Sure. Titebond 2 or 3 will be fine.
>>
>>I dun think so, Titebond 2 is "water resistance" and TItebond 3 is "water
>>proof".
>>
>>Woodcraft stock Titebond 3 last week, I bought a bottle to try, and the
>>saleperson asked me to let him know the result after I use it.
>
>Hmmm...I smell a Product Test in the offing. We've got T1, 2 and 3 at
>the shop, so mebbe I'll glue up some test joints and see how they fair
>under various (wet) conditions.
>
>I'm thinking about gluing several sets of two .75x2x6" boards
>together with a 3" overlap. I'll then let the boards cure for at
>least the recommended time period and then soak them for a period of
>time. Last step will be to clamp one in a vise and figure out some
>way of testing the load limit.... Any suggestions? I'd prefer to
>have somewhat meaningful results.
>
>JP
Leon responds:
>Uh, where did you get the information that white glue is milk based?
>
Heh. Casein glue is. White glue is a form of polyvinyl acetate, and there just
ain't many cows giving off major amounts of that.
Charlie Self
"If you want to know what God thinks of money, just look at the people he gave
it to." Dorothy Parker
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon responds:
>
> >Uh, where did you get the information that white glue is milk based?
> >
>
> Heh. Casein glue is. White glue is a form of polyvinyl acetate, and there
just
> ain't many cows giving off major amounts of that.
May be he was associating Borden's with milk... If that was true, the Rain
Dance wax that I used on my car may have been milk based as Borden's at one
time had its name on the container.
On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 23:52:13 -0400, Jay Pique <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Hmmm...I smell a Product Test in the offing. We've got T1, 2 and 3 at
>the shop, so mebbe I'll glue up some test joints and see how they fair
>under various (wet) conditions.
>
>I'm thinking about gluing several sets of two .75x2x6" boards
>together with a 3" overlap. I'll then let the boards cure for at
>least the recommended time period and then soak them for a period of
>time. Last step will be to clamp one in a vise and figure out some
>way of testing the load limit.... Any suggestions? I'd prefer to
>have somewhat meaningful results.
OK, I've glued up 3 sets each of T1, T2, T3 and Gorilla Glue, and am
planning on soaking them tomorrow. What time intervals do you think I
should attempt to break them at? I'm thinking the first set after 4
hours, the second after 12, and the third after 24 or 48. Does this
sound reasonable?
JP
"Al Reid" writes:
> I recently got 60 feet of 1.5" x 3" hard maple for free. I decided to
make a rather large cutting/chopping board. What is the
> consensus on the best glue for this application?
Not absolutely necessary but my choice would be epoxy.
After it is cured, it is inert, waterproof, and the joints won't fail.
Lew