I need a blade with square teeth for box joints-like cuts. That is, flat
ground top and sides of the blade that are 90 degrees from the top. I
thought I had gotten one from Freud, the LM72M -- the picture shows it
being square, http://www.freud-tools.com/freudtefinhe.html. When I started
making some cuts I noticed that it is not square.
Freud-tools.com, where I bought it, said they thought "it might have been
changed in the Spring". A call to the factory confirmed that they no
longer make a real square tooth. Nobody would own-up to the picture being
wrong.
So now I am looking at maybe the WWII "customized" with the #1 grind --
http://forrest.woodmall.com/cuswoodii.html. I have a call into Forrest.
It is a shame about the Freud because otherwise it cuts well -- I am
cutting polyethylene at the moment. I don't need a very smooth finish, but
if Forrest is the only way to go, so be it. And, I am afraid that the
Forrest may have too many teeth -- with polyethylene, it seems that
somewhere around 24 teeth is a good balance between cutting smooth and not
generating too much heat.
It is my understanding that rip blades traditionally were square ground.
If that is so, it seems that science has moved on because I have been
unable to find anyone but Forrest making a square tooth.
So, any ideas where I can find a square-toothed blade? Anyone used the
Forrest #1? Thanks. -- Igor
On Fri, 22 Aug 2003 02:49:49 GMT, Steve Knight
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Wed, 20 Aug 2003 22:26:49 GMT, Igor <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>It is my understanding that rip blades traditionally were square ground.
>>If that is so, it seems that science has moved on because I have been
>>unable to find anyone but Forrest making a square tooth.
>>
>>S
>I have atleast two rip blades with square teeth. a CMT blade and a other one I
>can't think of the name of. if you want the one with a missing tooth you just
>need to pay shipping to get it too you. it's not too bad of a blade. a name
>brand blade I forgot the name of (G)
Thanks. I'm going to try the CMT. I checked with a store that sells them
and they measured the teeth with a caliper -- which I did not ask, they
offered. The difference is 3/1000 of an inch of taper, which is about as
square as it gets (insert joke here about some guy in high school).
Igor , Look ak Amana RB1020 20 tooth or 610240 24 teeth. Both have FT
grind(flat top) with 20 degree hook. The second has .142" kerf, so
it's plenty stiff. Didn't Jackie Gleasen used to say
"amana,amana,amana" when he got in trouble with Alice?
>It is my understanding that rip blades traditionally were square ground.
>If that is so, it seems that science has moved on because I have been
>unable to find anyone but Forrest making a square tooth.
On Fri, 22 Aug 2003 15:26:25 GMT, Steve Knight
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Thanks. I'm going to try the CMT. I checked with a store that sells them
>>and they measured the teeth with a caliper -- which I did not ask, they
>>offered. The difference is 3/1000 of an inch of taper, which is about as
>>square as it gets (insert joke here about some guy in high school).
>
>Myself I don't like how the CMT cuts. out of the three rip blades it was the
>worst cutting. the amana (remembered the name) cut the best. it does have a
>missing tooth bit to get it sharpened and fixed would be less then 20.00
>shipping the blade would cost you about 25.00 about 1/2 the price. all I want is
>shipping covered.
Steve -- Thanks. (I've been on the road so sorry for the delayed reply.)
The CMT is due here tomorrow. I went w/ Brian's rec -- and the photos of
the results. If that doesn't work out, then maybe the next step is your
offer. Again, thanks. -- Igor
Igor, Look at http://www.amanatool.com/newsite/amanablades.html
Three diff. flat top blades.
On Thu, 21 Aug 2003 02:38:52 GMT, Igor <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Wed, 20 Aug 2003 23:23:45 GMT, klaatu <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Igor , Look ak Amana RB1020 20 tooth or 610240 24 teeth. Both have FT
>>grind(flat top) with 20 degree hook. The second has .142" kerf, so
>>it's plenty stiff. Didn't Jackie Gleasen used to say
>>"amana,amana,amana" when he got in trouble with Alice?
>>
>>>It is my understanding that rip blades traditionally were square ground.
>>>If that is so, it seems that science has moved on because I have been
>>>unable to find anyone but Forrest making a square tooth.
>
>Thanks. I found the RB1020 but not the other one -- googled. Are you sure
>they also have flat _sides_? That has been the problem.
On Thu, 21 Aug 2003 16:00:38 GMT, "Bob Gramza" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>: On Thu, 21 Aug 2003 15:38:48 GMT, klaatu <[email protected]> wrote:
>:
>: >Igor, Look at http://www.amanatool.com/newsite/amanablades.html
>: >Three diff. flat top blades.
>: >
>: I checked with them and all of their blades have tapered sides. That is
>: the problem -- flat top is good but tapered sides is bad. I am hoping that
>: CMT's blades that Brian has used are still non-tapered sides
>
>If the top of the tip is flat across the full width of the tooth why do you need full flat sides ?
>The cut is flat and having a full side will only produce heat and burning. The sides do not do any
>cutting.
>
I see your point. In fact, it seems quite right. All I can tell you is
that my cuts are not square. Some of my cuts are only 3/32" deep. And I
am cutting in plastic -- maybe it is a melt problem.
"Igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
: On Thu, 21 Aug 2003 15:38:48 GMT, klaatu <[email protected]> wrote:
:
: >Igor, Look at http://www.amanatool.com/newsite/amanablades.html
: >Three diff. flat top blades.
: >
: I checked with them and all of their blades have tapered sides. That is
: the problem -- flat top is good but tapered sides is bad. I am hoping that
: CMT's blades that Brian has used are still non-tapered sides
If the top of the tip is flat across the full width of the tooth why do you need full flat sides ?
The cut is flat and having a full side will only produce heat and burning. The sides do not do any
cutting.
On Wed, 20 Aug 2003 23:23:45 GMT, klaatu <[email protected]> wrote:
> Igor , Look ak Amana RB1020 20 tooth or 610240 24 teeth. Both have FT
>grind(flat top) with 20 degree hook. The second has .142" kerf, so
>it's plenty stiff. Didn't Jackie Gleasen used to say
>"amana,amana,amana" when he got in trouble with Alice?
>
>>It is my understanding that rip blades traditionally were square ground.
>>If that is so, it seems that science has moved on because I have been
>>unable to find anyone but Forrest making a square tooth.
Thanks. I found the RB1020 but not the other one -- googled. Are you sure
they also have flat _sides_? That has been the problem.
>I see your point. In fact, it seems quite right. All I can tell you is
>that my cuts are not square. Some of my cuts are only 3/32" deep. And I
>am cutting in plastic -- maybe it is a melt problem.
that could be.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
>Thanks. I'm going to try the CMT. I checked with a store that sells them
>and they measured the teeth with a caliper -- which I did not ask, they
>offered. The difference is 3/1000 of an inch of taper, which is about as
>square as it gets (insert joke here about some guy in high school).
Myself I don't like how the CMT cuts. out of the three rip blades it was the
worst cutting. the amana (remembered the name) cut the best. it does have a
missing tooth bit to get it sharpened and fixed would be less then 20.00
shipping the blade would cost you about 25.00 about 1/2 the price. all I want is
shipping covered.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
On Wed, 20 Aug 2003 22:26:49 GMT, Igor <[email protected]> wrote:
>It is my understanding that rip blades traditionally were square ground.
>If that is so, it seems that science has moved on because I have been
>unable to find anyone but Forrest making a square tooth.
>
>S
I have atleast two rip blades with square teeth. a CMT blade and a other one I
can't think of the name of. if you want the one with a missing tooth you just
need to pay shipping to get it too you. it's not too bad of a blade. a name
brand blade I forgot the name of (G)
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
On Wed, 20 Aug 2003 20:06:47 -0400, "Brian D. LaVoie"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I needed a new blade awhile back for a similar use -- cutting kerfs for
>splines & slip feathers. I found what I needed in a CMT Rip Blade which has
>a FTG (Flat Top Grind). Its a 24 tooth blade, and while I still use my WWII
>for ripping, the CMT performs flawlessly for the uses I bought it for --
>perfect fitting splines and slip feathers. I picked it up locally for
>$59.99
>
>If interested you can see the results of the blade on a couple projects on
>the site below. Check out the pencil box and/or serving tray pics on my
>"Project Gallery" page.
Well, if you used the CMT for that, that looks like it will do the trick
for me. Found it for $56, incl S&H at
http://www.cheyennesales.com/catalog/cmtrip.htm. Or, $4 more for the thin
kerf. Which one do you have?
The blade profile pic at that link looks right -- just like the one at
Freud-tools! Ha! So, seeing what you used it for makes me a lot more
comfortable. A big help. Can't figure why Freud stopped making a blade
that can make box/spline cuts, but I suppose they know what their sales
are.
Great stuff at your site. The pencil box is Japanese.
Again, thanks. -- Igor
How about having Forrest grind your Freud blade flat?
Montyhp
"Igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I need a blade with square teeth for box joints-like cuts. That is, flat
> ground top and sides of the blade that are 90 degrees from the top. I
> thought I had gotten one from Freud, the LM72M -- the picture shows it
> being square, http://www.freud-tools.com/freudtefinhe.html. When I
started
> making some cuts I noticed that it is not square.
>
> Freud-tools.com, where I bought it, said they thought "it might have been
> changed in the Spring". A call to the factory confirmed that they no
> longer make a real square tooth. Nobody would own-up to the picture being
> wrong.
>
> So now I am looking at maybe the WWII "customized" with the #1 grind --
> http://forrest.woodmall.com/cuswoodii.html. I have a call into Forrest.
>
> It is a shame about the Freud because otherwise it cuts well -- I am
> cutting polyethylene at the moment. I don't need a very smooth finish,
but
> if Forrest is the only way to go, so be it. And, I am afraid that the
> Forrest may have too many teeth -- with polyethylene, it seems that
> somewhere around 24 teeth is a good balance between cutting smooth and not
> generating too much heat.
>
> It is my understanding that rip blades traditionally were square ground.
> If that is so, it seems that science has moved on because I have been
> unable to find anyone but Forrest making a square tooth.
>
> So, any ideas where I can find a square-toothed blade? Anyone used the
> Forrest #1? Thanks. -- Igor
>
>