Resolution!!!!
Nate Perkins and John McCoy were right on the money. I stopped by
WoodCraft and picked up a new 6TPI 105" Timberwoof blade today. Before
installing it I checked the set of the teeth of the old blade. Yep,
they were almost dead even with the rest of the blade. So off it went,
on goes the new blade and everything is great! I am able to make cuts
the size of nickles while pushing the wood with 1 finger and no effort.
I suspect that in my early "tuning" now called "butchering" of the
setup, that I got the guide bearings to close to the teeth and that
pinched them shut. I checked the 93" blade that came with the saw
and the set is proper on it.
Thanks for Everyones advice, I now know and understand what happend and
how to prevent it in the future.
-Marcus
Marcus,
Just a note / hint / tip . . .
About a year ago, after a LOT of agonizing, I bought a 14inch bandsaw. {Yes,
I looked at the Griz, but decided on a JET}. The saw came with their
interpretation of 'Cool Blocks'. Because I didn't think I would be using
narrow blades, I swapped them out for Ceramic ones.
I set up the machine and really haven had any problems. I don't use it a
great deal, so the unit is actually BETTER them I AM - at the moment. 1/4
inch is the thinnest blade used - to date.
I have the original blocks in the 'parts box', and will probably make a
couple of 'sets' from hardwood {WD40 impregnated ?}. The reason is simple -
I have a couple of projects / plans that will require 1/8 in blades. From
what I have read {and experienced with the 4Tpi 1/4 in blade}, there is
another level of control when you can 'bury' the blade beyond the gullet.
There *REALLY* isn't much to work with on a 1/4 inch . . . I can only
imagine a 1/8 inch.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
<[email protected]> wrote ...
> Resolution!!!!
>
SNIP
> I suspect that in my early "tuning" now called "butchering" of the
> setup, that I got the guide bearings to close to the teeth and that
> pinched them shut.