Try to leave a thin center, i.e. don't cut completely through the board on the
second side, and use a "cordless handsaw" to finish the through cut. Tom
js wrote:>From: "js"
[email protected]
>Date: 08/20/2003 9:54 AM US Mountain Standard Time
>Message-id: <[email protected]>
>
>Is this a good idea? bad idea? I've never tried it, but I have some 1" oak,
>and I need some 1/4" oak. It cannot be plywood, and I dont have a bandsaw to
>rewsaw the stock. I could rip the saw down to say.. 3" thick, and resaw it
>on the tablesaw. Anyone see any problems with this?
(js) wrote:
Group: rec.woodworking Date: Wed, Aug 20, 2003, 4:54pm (EDT+4) From:
[email protected] (js)
Is this a good idea? bad idea? I've never tried it, but I have some 1"
oak, and I need some 1/4" oak. It cannot be plywood, and I dont have a
bandsaw to rewsaw the stock. I could rip the saw down to say.. 3" thick,
and resaw it on the tablesaw. Anyone see any problems with this?
******************************************************
You can resaw safely on your TS if you are careful and follow certain
guidelines. First, do not raise the blade more that an inch at a time,
i.e., do not try to make a full cut in one pass. Second, when you get
slightly past the center point of the width of the board, turn it end
for end, lower the saw blade and repeat the process. This way the blade
teeth are never exposed. You can do it !
Peace~ Sir Edgar
=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=
=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8
Leon wrote:
>
> I do this quite often with Ipe.
> I advise you to cut no more in depth than your saw is capable of doing
> easily. Resawing with the blade not clearing the top of the wood requires
> more power than if the blade clears the top of the board.
> Cut to just short of half the thickness on both edges. Remember to flip the
> board end for end on each pass. And remember to not cut past half way. You
> want there to be some stock left over in the center This piece in the
> center helps to keep the pieces together through out the operation.
>
> COMPLETE the separation of the halves with a hand saw or reciprocating saw.
>
I've always cut about an inch into it, flipped & repeated on the
opposite edge, flipped again & raised the blade, made the 2nd pass, etc.
until all of the way through without problem. BUT I just had a
thought..if using a WWII, with a 1/8" kerf: slip some 1/8" shims into
the kerf after the next to last pass & clamping them in place. Raise the
blade enough to make the final cut. I haven't tried this yet but it
sounds like it would be very stable. What do you think?
Scott
--
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
up later, the damage remains.
js wrote:
> Is this a good idea? bad idea? I've never tried it, but I have some 1" oak,
> and I need some 1/4" oak. It cannot be plywood, and I dont have a bandsaw to
> rewsaw the stock. I could rip the saw down to say.. 3" thick, and resaw it
> on the tablesaw. Anyone see any problems with this?
I've done it (and thicker) on my TS (and it does NOT require 3HP).
A zero-clearance insert is helpful - as is a variety of hold-down/
hold-side devices to keep everything where it is supposed to be.
Depending on your blade and feed rate, you may want to make multiple
passes to lessen the load on the saw. For 3" stock, you could take
two 1 1/2" passes.
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
I do this quite often with Ipe.
I advise you to cut no more in depth than your saw is capable of doing
easily. Resawing with the blade not clearing the top of the wood requires
more power than if the blade clears the top of the board.
Cut to just short of half the thickness on both edges. Remember to flip the
board end for end on each pass. And remember to not cut past half way. You
want there to be some stock left over in the center This piece in the
center helps to keep the pieces together through out the operation.
COMPLETE the separation of the halves with a hand saw or reciprocating saw.
"js" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Is this a good idea? bad idea? I've never tried it, but I have some 1"
oak,
> and I need some 1/4" oak. It cannot be plywood, and I dont have a bandsaw
to
> rewsaw the stock. I could rip the saw down to say.. 3" thick, and resaw it
> on the tablesaw. Anyone see any problems with this?
>
>
> Is this a good idea? bad idea? I've never tried it, but I have some 1"
oak,
> and I need some 1/4" oak. It cannot be plywood, and I dont have a
bandsaw to
> rewsaw the stock. I could rip the saw down to say.. 3" thick, and resaw
it
> on the tablesaw. Anyone see any problems with this?
I did the same sort of thing with 1" maple on my POS 1.5hp table saw,
and it did work. You have to be extremely careful, but it can be done.
steve
I can visulaize a tall fence and pushstick that extends over the
length of the board helped by push jigs keeping the board against the
fence. I made a tall fence for vertical router panel bit and put
several coats of gloss PSL on it to avoid any impediment while pushing
a slab through.
On Wed, 20 Aug 2003 17:01:18 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
>
>It can be done... but the risk of kickback is fairly high. You're better off
>with a bandsaw if at all possible.
I'd do it. But only with a featherboard, a zero-clearance and a 3 hp
UNISAW or equal. And I would use a 1/8" kerf blade so that it doesn't
flex. Only thing that bothers me is that you have 1" oak that you
want to saw down to 3". I think you are saying that you have some
1x4's? Is this true?And if you don't have a splitter/pawls, I would be
finding another way to do it. A 3" thick board coming back at you is
not pretty.
On Wed, 20 Aug 2003 16:54:26 GMT, "js"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Is this a good idea? bad idea? I've never tried it, but I have some 1" oak,
>and I need some 1/4" oak. It cannot be plywood, and I dont have a bandsaw to
>rewsaw the stock. I could rip the saw down to say.. 3" thick, and resaw it
>on the tablesaw. Anyone see any problems with this?
>
I've done this in the past, but don't like it. At this point, I've
got a bandsaw for the task. But, back the in the days I used the TS,
I resawed by ripping a little less than 1/2 way through the width of
the board (within the limits of the TS depth of cut) and then flipping
the board end over end and resawing the same way through the other
edge. This left what looks like a pair of thinner boards joined with
a thin rib between them. I could easily separate them with a handsaw,
or if lucky, just snap them apart. If you snap them apart, the wood
fibers *might* tear into one or the other boards.
This helps avoid kickback.
On Wed, 20 Aug 2003 16:54:26 GMT, "js"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Is this a good idea? bad idea? I've never tried it, but I have some 1" oak,
>and I need some 1/4" oak. It cannot be plywood, and I dont have a bandsaw to
>rewsaw the stock. I could rip the saw down to say.. 3" thick, and resaw it
>on the tablesaw. Anyone see any problems with this?
>
On Wed, 20 Aug 2003 16:54:26 GMT, "js"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I could rip the saw down to say.. 3" thick, and resaw it
>on the tablesaw. Anyone see any problems with this?
I don't - I'm wondering if I'm missing something here ?
If all you're doing is 3" wide, then to me that's just ripping a thin
strip. I do it regularly, in one pass.
I'd set the saw up with the good sharp blade (a CMT thin-kerf, until I
swap to a bigger motor) and the half-fence. This is a simple MDF false
fence that reaches from the front to just short of the the rear of the
blade. The thin fence supports the narrow strip while it's cut, then
allows it room to spring away from the blade at the back. Being
European, the riving knife and guard are already in place.
"js" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Is this a good idea? bad idea? I've never tried it, but I have some 1"
oak,
> and I need some 1/4" oak. It cannot be plywood, and I dont have a
bandsaw to
> rewsaw the stock. I could rip the saw down to say.. 3" thick, and
resaw it
> on the tablesaw. Anyone see any problems with this?
>
You could rip it to 6" and do the same thing. Make one pass and then
flip it over and make the second. You'll lose more to the kerf than you
would with a bandsaw but it's done on a tablesaw all the time.
In article <[email protected]>, "js" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Is this a good idea? bad idea? I've never tried it, but I have some 1" oak,
>and I need some 1/4" oak. It cannot be plywood, and I dont have a bandsaw to
>rewsaw the stock. I could rip the saw down to say.. 3" thick, and resaw it
>on the tablesaw. Anyone see any problems with this?
It can be done... but the risk of kickback is fairly high. You're better off
with a bandsaw if at all possible.
If you don't know anyone with a bandsaw you can use, then this project is the
perfect excuse for buying one. If the major obstacle to buying one is your
SWMBO, just shuffle the order of your projects a bit: find something to make
*for her* that you just *gotta* have a bandsaw for. Do that first, then resaw
your oak. :-)
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)