Howdy,
I recently saw a very simple design for a stand for a
banjo...
I could make one in a flash as it is essentially a plywood
box, about 20" X 14" X 8", with a padded hole in the top in
which the banjo rests (with its neck going up and slightly
tilted back).
The problem is that I can't come up with a good way to
determine the proper shape of the hole.
It is a moderately complex shape in that it must accommodate
the curve of the resonator, and the varying diameters of the
instrument itself. Also, the instrument is rather fragile so
doing things like dragging a divider along its surface would
be out.
What might be some ways (other than running it through my
table saw) that I could get a reasonably accurate "tracing"
if the banjo, about 6" from its tailpiece?
Sincere thanks for any help,
--
Kenneth
If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
Kenneth wrote:
> Hi Jack (and others),
>
> I am moving in the expanding foam direction because it would
> provide excellent support for the instrument, but I do need
> a bit of education:
>
> What kind of foam do I want for this sort of thing?
>
> The only foam I know at all is the "hardware store aerosol
> insulation stuff."
> Is there another sort of foam better for this purpose?
The stuff they sell at the borg is OK for insulation, but lousy for this
application.
Do a Google for "urethane foam".
You want the 2 pound stuff.
It is sold as a two (2) part kit and can be shipped UPS.
It will stick to anything so use a parting agent such as clear packing tape,
plastic foam, etc.
Last time I used some, got it from an outfit in West Palm Beach, Fl and I'm
in SoCal.
It was still my lowest cost supplier.
Have fun.
Lew
Fri, Jan 25, 2008, 8:03pm [email protected] (Kenneth)
doth posteth:
Howdy,
I recently saw a very simple design for a stand for a banjo...
I could make one in a flash as it is essentially a plywood box, about
20" X 14" X 8", with a padded hole in the top in which the banjo rests
(with its neck going up and slightly tilted back).
The problem is that I can't come up with a good way to determine the
proper shape of the hole.
It is a moderately complex shape in that it must accommodate the curve
of the resonator, and the varying diameters of the instrument itself.
Also, the instrument is rather fragile so doing things like dragging a
divider along its surface would be out. <snip>
I saw the link with the picture You're trying to complicate it..
It's got a rounded pocket (I think 'round' is what they mean by
"contoured"), to set a banjo in. It's padded. There's no "moderately
complex" shape involved, all you have do do is make it deep enough to
accept a banjo - just like they did. Personally, if I was gonna make a
stand for a banjo, or whatever, I'd make something that'd let it be
supported from the bottom, lean it "back" a bit, and support the neck.
Unless I wanted something that would go pretty much un-noticed with the
banjo out of it, like playing on stage, I doubt I'd want something like
that. OK, in real life, I'd just put it back in the case until I wanted
to play again; with a case strong enough someone could step on it and
not hurt the case OR banjo.. Remind me, got to get working on my banjo
again. Ah well.
JOAT
10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President
- Bumper Sticker
I don't have a problem with a woman president - just not Hillary.
Make sure you get one that is NON expanding or minimum expanding.
It will say something like being used for windows and doors. The
regular triple expanding stuff could do harm as it generates quite
a bit of pressure.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"Kenneth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 16:01:58 GMT, Nova <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>Kenneth wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>> If I were trying to make an outline of the whole instrument,
>>> the suggestion you offer would be perfect, but...
>>>
>>> I need to get the outline "part way up" rather than the
>>> complete outline.
>>>
>>> Here's a link to the design I want to copy:
>>>
>>> http://www.banjo.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1266
>>>
>>> and when you take a look, I suspect you will see the problem
>>> with typical tracing methods.
>>>
>>> Sincere thanks for your ideas,
>>
>>
>>A possibility would be:
>>
>>1. Place the banjo body in a plastic garbage bag to protect the
>> instrument.
>>
>>2. Appropriately position the body of the instrument is a
>>properly sized
>> box using styrofoam spacers.
>>
>>3. Use an expanding foam to fill the box making a mold of the
>>body to
>> the required depth/height.
>
> Hi Jack (and others),
>
> I am moving in the expanding foam direction because it would
> provide excellent support for the instrument, but I do need
> a bit of education:
>
> What kind of foam do I want for this sort of thing?
>
> The only foam I know at all is the "hardware store aerosol
> insulation stuff."
>
> Is there another sort of foam better for this purpose?
>
> Sincere thanks,
> --
> Kenneth
>
> If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
I'll sell you one just like it for ..... say, I dunno.... about $120.
Plus shipping..
-T.E. Stosterone
On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 20:03:04 -0500, Kenneth
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Howdy,
>
>I recently saw a very simple design for a stand for a
>banjo...
>
>I could make one in a flash as it is essentially a plywood
>box, about 20" X 14" X 8", with a padded hole in the top in
>which the banjo rests (with its neck going up and slightly
>tilted back).
>
>The problem is that I can't come up with a good way to
>determine the proper shape of the hole.
>
>It is a moderately complex shape in that it must accommodate
>the curve of the resonator, and the varying diameters of the
>instrument itself. Also, the instrument is rather fragile so
>doing things like dragging a divider along its surface would
>be out.
>
>What might be some ways (other than running it through my
>table saw) that I could get a reasonably accurate "tracing"
>if the banjo, about 6" from its tailpiece?
>
>Sincere thanks for any help,
On Jan 26, 8:03 pm, Kenneth <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 18:07:31 -0500, [email protected]
>
>
>
> (J T) wrote:
> >Fri, Jan 25, 2008, 8:03pm [email protected] (Kenneth)
> >doth posteth:
> >Howdy,
> >I recently saw a very simple design for a stand for a banjo...
> >I could make one in a flash as it is essentially a plywood box, about
> >20" X 14" X 8", with a padded hole in the top in which the banjo rests
> >(with its neck going up and slightly tilted back).
> >The problem is that I can't come up with a good way to determine the
> >proper shape of the hole.
> >It is a moderately complex shape in that it must accommodate the curve
> >of the resonator, and the varying diameters of the instrument itself.
> >Also, the instrument is rather fragile so doing things like dragging a
> >divider along its surface would be out. <snip>
>
> > I saw the link with the picture You're trying to complicate it..
> >It's got a rounded pocket (I think 'round' is what they mean by
> >"contoured"), to set a banjo in. It's padded. There's no "moderately
> >complex" shape involved, all you have do do is make it deep enough to
> >accept a banjo - just like they did. Personally, if I was gonna make a
> >stand for a banjo, or whatever, I'd make something that'd let it be
> >supported from the bottom, lean it "back" a bit, and support the neck.
> >Unless I wanted something that would go pretty much un-noticed with the
> >banjo out of it, like playing on stage, I doubt I'd want something like
> >that. OK, in real life, I'd just put it back in the case until I wanted
> >to play again; with a case strong enough someone could step on it and
> >not hurt the case OR banjo.. Remind me, got to get working on my banjo
> >again. Ah well.
>
> Howdy,
>
> Of course you may be correct, but...
>
> Take a look at this:
>
> http://community-2.webtv.net/Deesosebee/stand/
>
> It is another version of the stand made by the same fellow.
> I assumed that the "box" version was functionally similar to
> the "folding" version in the link above.
>
> If they are functionally similar, the box version does not
> support the instrument from below as you suggest.
You might want to Google French fitted drawers for some ideas on how
to cut and wrap the top piece. As an alternative, you could cut a
front and a back piece separately and then cut each (roughly) C-shaped
piece to fit - then just glue them together to make a one piece top.
R
Any reason a regular contour gauge won't work? Obviously not all at
once, but you should be able to capture the shape of the instrument in a
few steps.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10668
http://www.acehardware.com/sm-general-contour-gauge-general-contour-gauge-price-10-49-6--pi-1292852.html
http://www.right-tool.com/12steelpinco.html
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email
Kenneth wrote:
> Howdy,
>
> I recently saw a very simple design for a stand for a
> banjo...
>
> I could make one in a flash as it is essentially a plywood
> box, about 20" X 14" X 8", with a padded hole in the top in
> which the banjo rests (with its neck going up and slightly
> tilted back).
>
> The problem is that I can't come up with a good way to
> determine the proper shape of the hole.
>
> It is a moderately complex shape in that it must accommodate
> the curve of the resonator, and the varying diameters of the
> instrument itself. Also, the instrument is rather fragile so
> doing things like dragging a divider along its surface would
> be out.
>
> What might be some ways (other than running it through my
> table saw) that I could get a reasonably accurate "tracing"
> if the banjo, about 6" from its tailpiece?
>
> Sincere thanks for any help,
On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 18:07:31 -0500, [email protected]
(J T) wrote:
>Fri, Jan 25, 2008, 8:03pm [email protected] (Kenneth)
>doth posteth:
>Howdy,
>I recently saw a very simple design for a stand for a banjo...
>I could make one in a flash as it is essentially a plywood box, about
>20" X 14" X 8", with a padded hole in the top in which the banjo rests
>(with its neck going up and slightly tilted back).
>The problem is that I can't come up with a good way to determine the
>proper shape of the hole.
>It is a moderately complex shape in that it must accommodate the curve
>of the resonator, and the varying diameters of the instrument itself.
>Also, the instrument is rather fragile so doing things like dragging a
>divider along its surface would be out. <snip>
>
> I saw the link with the picture You're trying to complicate it..
>It's got a rounded pocket (I think 'round' is what they mean by
>"contoured"), to set a banjo in. It's padded. There's no "moderately
>complex" shape involved, all you have do do is make it deep enough to
>accept a banjo - just like they did. Personally, if I was gonna make a
>stand for a banjo, or whatever, I'd make something that'd let it be
>supported from the bottom, lean it "back" a bit, and support the neck.
>Unless I wanted something that would go pretty much un-noticed with the
>banjo out of it, like playing on stage, I doubt I'd want something like
>that. OK, in real life, I'd just put it back in the case until I wanted
>to play again; with a case strong enough someone could step on it and
>not hurt the case OR banjo.. Remind me, got to get working on my banjo
>again. Ah well.
>
>
Howdy,
Of course you may be correct, but...
Take a look at this:
http://community-2.webtv.net/Deesosebee/stand/
It is another version of the stand made by the same fellow.
I assumed that the "box" version was functionally similar to
the "folding" version in the link above.
If they are functionally similar, the box version does not
support the instrument from below as you suggest.
All the best,
--
Kenneth
If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
Sat, Jan 26, 2008, 8:03pm [email protected] (Kenneth)
doth suggesteth:
<snip> If they are functionally similar, the box version does not
support the instrument from below as you suggest.
Doesn't matter either way, it's woodworking, not rocket science.
Just make one if that's what you want. If you're worried about how it
will turn out, make one out of cheap wood, or even cardboard. If it
doesn't work, make another. When you get one you like, make one with the
wood of your choice. You could have made 2 or 3 by now. Personally I
wouldn't want a banjo of mine resting on just two points on the side,
even with padding, I'd think it would tend to wear the finish, if not
scratch it..
JOAT
10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President - Bumper Sticker
I don't have a problem with a woman president - except for Hillary.
A contour copier would work. A plastic one should not mar
anything: http://www.mannyswoodworkersplace.com/6150066.html
I have had good luck just taking a piece of poster board type
cardboard, making a few cuts with scissors, trial and error.
Might take 3 attempts to get what you want.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"Kenneth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Howdy,
>
> I recently saw a very simple design for a stand for a
> banjo...
>
> I could make one in a flash as it is essentially a plywood
> box, about 20" X 14" X 8", with a padded hole in the top in
> which the banjo rests (with its neck going up and slightly
> tilted back).
>
> The problem is that I can't come up with a good way to
> determine the proper shape of the hole.
>
> It is a moderately complex shape in that it must accommodate
> the curve of the resonator, and the varying diameters of the
> instrument itself. Also, the instrument is rather fragile so
> doing things like dragging a divider along its surface would
> be out.
>
> What might be some ways (other than running it through my
> table saw) that I could get a reasonably accurate "tracing"
> if the banjo, about 6" from its tailpiece?
>
> Sincere thanks for any help,
> --
> Kenneth
>
> If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 14:34:32 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Jan 25, 8:03 pm, Kenneth <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Howdy,
>>
>> I recently saw a very simple design for a stand for a
>> banjo...
>>
>> I could make one in a flash as it is essentially a plywood
>> box, about 20" X 14" X 8", with a padded hole in the top in
>> which the banjo rests (with its neck going up and slightly
>> tilted back).
>>
>> The problem is that I can't come up with a good way to
>> determine the proper shape of the hole.
>>
>> It is a moderately complex shape in that it must accommodate
>> the curve of the resonator, and the varying diameters of the
>> instrument itself. Also, the instrument is rather fragile so
>> doing things like dragging a divider along its surface would
>> be out.
>>
>> What might be some ways (other than running it through my
>> table saw) that I could get a reasonably accurate "tracing"
>> if the banjo, about 6" from its tailpiece?
>
>6" from the tailpiece would be through the pot. Scribe it
>with a carpenter's pencil held flat, with a sheet of paper
>held over the resonator to protect the finish. The radius
>is huge, so a 3/16" difference won't be noticeable. You'll
>have padding to fill the gap, anyway.
>
>To get the neck contour, pack plasticine clay around
>the desired section, again with a sheet of paper in
>between to protect the finish.
Hello again,
You might want to take a look at the link I posted earlier
in the thread:
http://www.banjo.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1266
As you will see, there is no involvement with the neck, just
the tailpiece end of the instrument.
All the best,
--
Kenneth
If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
On Jan 26, 5:52 pm, Kenneth <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 14:34:32 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
>
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >On Jan 25, 8:03 pm, Kenneth <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> Howdy,
>
> >> I recently saw a very simple design for a stand for a
> >> banjo...
>
> >> I could make one in a flash as it is essentially a plywood
> >> box, about 20" X 14" X 8", with a padded hole in the top in
> >> which the banjo rests (with its neck going up and slightly
> >> tilted back).
>
> >> The problem is that I can't come up with a good way to
> >> determine the proper shape of the hole.
>
> >> It is a moderately complex shape in that it must accommodate
> >> the curve of the resonator, and the varying diameters of the
> >> instrument itself. Also, the instrument is rather fragile so
> >> doing things like dragging a divider along its surface would
> >> be out.
>
> >> What might be some ways (other than running it through my
> >> table saw) that I could get a reasonably accurate "tracing"
> >> if the banjo, about 6" from its tailpiece?
>
> >6" from the tailpiece would be through the pot. Scribe it
> >with a carpenter's pencil held flat, with a sheet of paper
> >held over the resonator to protect the finish. The radius
> >is huge, so a 3/16" difference won't be noticeable. You'll
> >have padding to fill the gap, anyway.
>
> >To get the neck contour, pack plasticine clay around
> >the desired section, again with a sheet of paper in
> >between to protect the finish.
>
> Hello again,
>
> You might want to take a look at the link I posted earlier
> in the thread:
>
> http://www.banjo.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1266
>
> As you will see, there is no involvement with the neck, just
> the tailpiece end of the instrument.
That helps.
I'd support the banjo by the pot, not the resonator. Resonator
brackets aren't terribly strong.
Kenneth wrote:
>
> If I were trying to make an outline of the whole instrument,
> the suggestion you offer would be perfect, but...
>
> I need to get the outline "part way up" rather than the
> complete outline.
>
> Here's a link to the design I want to copy:
>
> http://www.banjo.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1266
>
> and when you take a look, I suspect you will see the problem
> with typical tracing methods.
>
> Sincere thanks for your ideas,
A possibility would be:
1. Place the banjo body in a plastic garbage bag to protect the
instrument.
2. Appropriately position the body of the instrument is a properly sized
box using styrofoam spacers.
3. Use an expanding foam to fill the box making a mold of the body to
the required depth/height.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
On Jan 25, 10:35 pm, Kenneth <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
> I need to get the outline "part way up" rather than the
> complete outline.
>
> Here's a link to the design I want to copy:
>
> http://www.banjo.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1266
>
> and when you take a look, I suspect you will see the problem
> with typical tracing methods.
Cut a piece of scrap plywood with a cutout that the banjo can easily
pass through past your intended cross section line - leave about 1/2"
clearance between the banjo and the wood. Then prop up the banjo
vertically, slide the bottom of the banjo into the plywood cutout, and
prop up the plywood until it is horizontal at the desired level. Then
use a compass set at 1" to trace the perimeter of the banjo. The
compass points must be perpendicular to the banjo outline at all times
as you run it around the perimeter. Remove the banjo, place a piece
of tracing paper over the plywood and trace the perimeter line you
marked with the compass. Then using the compass on the same setting
(don't change it between steps), trace 1" inside the marked perimeter
to find the exact perimeter. That will create an exact fit, depending
on your skill and tool sets - how much clearance you need is up to
you. I'd probably leave about 1/8" clearance and taper the hole to
make banjo insertion easier.
As an alternative, you could wrap the banjo base in a layer of paper,
then a layer of plastic, tape it up tight, make a box form (could be
the holder's side walls depending on what finish) of the desired size,
prop up the banjo vertically in the box, then use a can of low-
expanding spray foam to fill in the box around the wrapped banjo. Now
you can use the foam, cut as required, to create an exact template of
whatever section you need, or keep it as the banjo box liner and just
make a top piece of wood to fit.
R
On Jan 25, 8:03 pm, Kenneth <[email protected]> wrote:
> Howdy,
>
> I recently saw a very simple design for a stand for a
> banjo...
>
> I could make one in a flash as it is essentially a plywood
> box, about 20" X 14" X 8", with a padded hole in the top in
> which the banjo rests (with its neck going up and slightly
> tilted back).
>
> The problem is that I can't come up with a good way to
> determine the proper shape of the hole.
>
> It is a moderately complex shape in that it must accommodate
> the curve of the resonator, and the varying diameters of the
> instrument itself. Also, the instrument is rather fragile so
> doing things like dragging a divider along its surface would
> be out.
>
> What might be some ways (other than running it through my
> table saw) that I could get a reasonably accurate "tracing"
> if the banjo, about 6" from its tailpiece?
6" from the tailpiece would be through the pot. Scribe it
with a carpenter's pencil held flat, with a sheet of paper
held over the resonator to protect the finish. The radius
is huge, so a 3/16" difference won't be noticeable. You'll
have padding to fill the gap, anyway.
To get the neck contour, pack plasticine clay around
the desired section, again with a sheet of paper in
between to protect the finish.
On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 11:38:41 -0500, Kenneth
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I am moving in the expanding foam direction because it would
>provide excellent support for the instrument, but I do need
>a bit of education:
>
>What kind of foam do I want for this sort of thing?
You may want to be careful with foam unless you have some type of
material between the instrument and the foam. It may be possible that
the foam could react with the various finishes on the instrument.
Mike O.
On Jan 25, 8:03=A0pm, Kenneth <[email protected]> wrote:
> Howdy,
>
> I recently saw a very simple design for a stand for a
> banjo...
>
> I could make one in a flash as it is essentially a plywood
> box, about 20" X 14" X 8", with a padded hole in the top in
> which the banjo rests (with its neck going up and slightly
> tilted back).
>
> The problem is that I can't come up with a good way to
> determine the proper shape of the hole.
>
> It is a moderately complex shape in that it must accommodate
> the curve of the resonator, and the varying diameters of the
> instrument itself. Also, the instrument is rather fragile so
> doing things like dragging a divider along its surface would
> be out.
>
> What might be some ways (other than running it through my
> table saw) that I could get a reasonably accurate "tracing"
> if the banjo, about 6" from its tailpiece?
>
> Sincere thanks for any help,
> --
> Kenneth
>
> If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
I suggest that you use a standard carpente's pencil. Lay the banjo on
a suitable size piece of craft paper (the plain brown stuff butchers
use). Place the flat side of the pencil next to the banjo and trace
the outlne. You will end up with an outlne that is 0.250 wider than
the banjo. The rest depends on the tools you have. Post a bit more
detail and I will be glad to offer a suggestion.
Regards,
Dave G.
On Jan 25, 8:03=A0pm, Kenneth <[email protected]> wrote:
> Also, the instrument is rather fragile so
> doing things like dragging a divider along its surface would
> be out.
Fragile? A frying pan with an animal skin stretched over it is fragile?
Kenneth wrote:
> On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 19:14:16 -0800 (PST), Dave
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On Jan 25, 8:03 pm, Kenneth <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>> Howdy,
>>>
>>> I recently saw a very simple design for a stand for a
>>> banjo...
>>>
>>> I could make one in a flash as it is essentially a plywood
>>> box, about 20" X 14" X 8", with a padded hole in the top in
>>> which the banjo rests (with its neck going up and slightly
>>> tilted back).
>>>
>>> The problem is that I can't come up with a good way to
>>> determine the proper shape of the hole.
>>>
>>> It is a moderately complex shape in that it must accommodate
>>> the curve of the resonator, and the varying diameters of the
>>> instrument itself. Also, the instrument is rather fragile so
>>> doing things like dragging a divider along its surface would
>>> be out.
>>>
>>> What might be some ways (other than running it through my
>>> table saw) that I could get a reasonably accurate "tracing"
>>> if the banjo, about 6" from its tailpiece?
>>>
>>> Sincere thanks for any help,
>>> --
>>> Kenneth
>>>
>>> If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
>>
>> I suggest that you use a standard carpente's pencil. Lay the banjo
>> on
>> a suitable size piece of craft paper (the plain brown stuff
>> butchers
>> use). Place the flat side of the pencil next to the banjo and trace
>> the outlne. You will end up with an outlne that is 0.250 wider than
>> the banjo. The rest depends on the tools you have. Post a bit more
>> detail and I will be glad to offer a suggestion.
>> Regards,
>> Dave G.
>
> Hi Dave,
>
> If I were trying to make an outline of the whole instrument,
> the suggestion you offer would be perfect, but...
>
> I need to get the outline "part way up" rather than the
> complete outline.
>
> Here's a link to the design I want to copy:
>
> http://www.banjo.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1266
>
> and when you take a look, I suspect you will see the problem
> with typical tracing methods.
>
> Sincere thanks for your ideas,
Cheap and dirty way, cardboard, scissors, and tape, keep hacking until
you've got the right shape.
Not quite so cheap or dirty, contour gage.
http://grizzly.com/products/10-Plastic-Contour-Gauge/H7378 Note that
I'm suggesting the plastic one rather than the metal one since you
said that the instrument was fragile and I figure the plastic is
slightly less likely to mar anything than is the metal one.
The way a draftsman would do it--set up a reference surface and
measure at points from that surface. A draftsman would use a surface
block and inside caliper most likely, but since you don't have those,
a practical way to do this cheap with minimal risk of marring the
banjo--joint a three foot 2x4 and sand a dime-store plastic ruler to a
point, then measure with the point touching the banjo (don't drag it,
just touch, write down the measurement, move it a quarter inch,
repeat) with the 2x4 far enough back that you still have numbers on
the ruler.
High tech, fancy, and fanciful--get a line laser level (the kind that
projects a line on all the walls of a room). Set it so that the line
crosses the banjo at an appropriate point. Take a photo from the end
(use a slow shutter speed), you'll have part of the contour. Rotate
the banjo and repeat until you've got it all. Make sure you have a
ruler in the photo for a dimensional reference.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 05:09:25 -0800 (PST), RicodJour
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Jan 25, 10:35 pm, Kenneth <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>>
>> I need to get the outline "part way up" rather than the
>> complete outline.
>>
>> Here's a link to the design I want to copy:
>>
>> http://www.banjo.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1266
>>
>> and when you take a look, I suspect you will see the problem
>> with typical tracing methods.
>
>Cut a piece of scrap plywood with a cutout that the banjo can easily
>pass through past your intended cross section line - leave about 1/2"
>clearance between the banjo and the wood. Then prop up the banjo
>vertically, slide the bottom of the banjo into the plywood cutout, and
>prop up the plywood until it is horizontal at the desired level. Then
>use a compass set at 1" to trace the perimeter of the banjo. The
>compass points must be perpendicular to the banjo outline at all times
>as you run it around the perimeter. Remove the banjo, place a piece
>of tracing paper over the plywood and trace the perimeter line you
>marked with the compass. Then using the compass on the same setting
>(don't change it between steps), trace 1" inside the marked perimeter
>to find the exact perimeter. That will create an exact fit, depending
>on your skill and tool sets - how much clearance you need is up to
>you. I'd probably leave about 1/8" clearance and taper the hole to
>make banjo insertion easier.
>
>As an alternative, you could wrap the banjo base in a layer of paper,
>then a layer of plastic, tape it up tight, make a box form (could be
>the holder's side walls depending on what finish) of the desired size,
>prop up the banjo vertically in the box, then use a can of low-
>expanding spray foam to fill in the box around the wrapped banjo. Now
>you can use the foam, cut as required, to create an exact template of
>whatever section you need, or keep it as the banjo box liner and just
>make a top piece of wood to fit.
>
>R
Hello again,
Many thanks for (both) great ideas...
I should have my stand shortly!
--
Kenneth
If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
Kenneth wrote:
> Hi Jack (and others),
>
> I am moving in the expanding foam direction because it would
> provide excellent support for the instrument, but I do need
> a bit of education:
>
> What kind of foam do I want for this sort of thing?
>
> The only foam I know at all is the "hardware store aerosol
> insulation stuff."
>
> Is there another sort of foam better for this purpose?
>
> Sincere thanks,
Hi Ken,
I agree with Dan that a minimum expanding foam would be best. "Great
Stuff" now makes an aerosol that is designed for use in foaming around
windows to prevent bowing the casement. I'd probably also use a
cardboard box as it would allow sidewall flex minimizing pressure on the
banjo's body.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 19:14:16 -0800 (PST), Dave
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Jan 25, 8:03 pm, Kenneth <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Howdy,
>>
>> I recently saw a very simple design for a stand for a
>> banjo...
>>
>> I could make one in a flash as it is essentially a plywood
>> box, about 20" X 14" X 8", with a padded hole in the top in
>> which the banjo rests (with its neck going up and slightly
>> tilted back).
>>
>> The problem is that I can't come up with a good way to
>> determine the proper shape of the hole.
>>
>> It is a moderately complex shape in that it must accommodate
>> the curve of the resonator, and the varying diameters of the
>> instrument itself. Also, the instrument is rather fragile so
>> doing things like dragging a divider along its surface would
>> be out.
>>
>> What might be some ways (other than running it through my
>> table saw) that I could get a reasonably accurate "tracing"
>> if the banjo, about 6" from its tailpiece?
>>
>> Sincere thanks for any help,
>> --
>> Kenneth
>>
>> If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
>
>I suggest that you use a standard carpente's pencil. Lay the banjo on
>a suitable size piece of craft paper (the plain brown stuff butchers
>use). Place the flat side of the pencil next to the banjo and trace
>the outlne. You will end up with an outlne that is 0.250 wider than
>the banjo. The rest depends on the tools you have. Post a bit more
>detail and I will be glad to offer a suggestion.
>Regards,
>Dave G.
Hi Dave,
If I were trying to make an outline of the whole instrument,
the suggestion you offer would be perfect, but...
I need to get the outline "part way up" rather than the
complete outline.
Here's a link to the design I want to copy:
http://www.banjo.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1266
and when you take a look, I suspect you will see the problem
with typical tracing methods.
Sincere thanks for your ideas,
--
Kenneth
If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
Have a digital camera? Place the banjo on a contrasting surface, with
a yardstick or tape measure next to it. Light the banjo and make
pictures from directly overhead.
Edit the image in any photo software and fill the area around the
banjo with black. Enlarge the image to full size and you have a
template.
John
On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 20:03:04 -0500, Kenneth
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Howdy,
>
>I recently saw a very simple design for a stand for a
>banjo...
>
>I could make one in a flash as it is essentially a plywood
>box, about 20" X 14" X 8", with a padded hole in the top in
>which the banjo rests (with its neck going up and slightly
>tilted back).
>
>The problem is that I can't come up with a good way to
>determine the proper shape of the hole.
>
>It is a moderately complex shape in that it must accommodate
>the curve of the resonator, and the varying diameters of the
>instrument itself. Also, the instrument is rather fragile so
>doing things like dragging a divider along its surface would
>be out.
>
>What might be some ways (other than running it through my
>table saw) that I could get a reasonably accurate "tracing"
>if the banjo, about 6" from its tailpiece?
>
>Sincere thanks for any help,
On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 16:01:58 GMT, Nova <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Kenneth wrote:
>
>
>>
>> If I were trying to make an outline of the whole instrument,
>> the suggestion you offer would be perfect, but...
>>
>> I need to get the outline "part way up" rather than the
>> complete outline.
>>
>> Here's a link to the design I want to copy:
>>
>> http://www.banjo.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1266
>>
>> and when you take a look, I suspect you will see the problem
>> with typical tracing methods.
>>
>> Sincere thanks for your ideas,
>
>
>A possibility would be:
>
>1. Place the banjo body in a plastic garbage bag to protect the
> instrument.
>
>2. Appropriately position the body of the instrument is a properly sized
> box using styrofoam spacers.
>
>3. Use an expanding foam to fill the box making a mold of the body to
> the required depth/height.
Hi Jack (and others),
I am moving in the expanding foam direction because it would
provide excellent support for the instrument, but I do need
a bit of education:
What kind of foam do I want for this sort of thing?
The only foam I know at all is the "hardware store aerosol
insulation stuff."
Is there another sort of foam better for this purpose?
Sincere thanks,
--
Kenneth
If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 21:41:24 -0500, John <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 20:03:04 -0500, Kenneth
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>Howdy,
>>
>>I recently saw a very simple design for a stand for a
>>banjo...
>>
>>I could make one in a flash as it is essentially a plywood
>>box, about 20" X 14" X 8", with a padded hole in the top in
>>which the banjo rests (with its neck going up and slightly
>>tilted back).
>>
>>The problem is that I can't come up with a good way to
>>determine the proper shape of the hole.
>>
>>It is a moderately complex shape in that it must accommodate
>>the curve of the resonator, and the varying diameters of the
>>instrument itself. Also, the instrument is rather fragile so
>>doing things like dragging a divider along its surface would
>>be out.
>>
>>What might be some ways (other than running it through my
>>table saw) that I could get a reasonably accurate "tracing"
>>if the banjo, about 6" from its tailpiece?
>>
>>Sincere thanks for any help,
>Have a digital camera? Place the banjo on a contrasting surface, with
>a yardstick or tape measure next to it. Light the banjo and make
>pictures from directly overhead.
>
>Edit the image in any photo software and fill the area around the
>banjo with black. Enlarge the image to full size and you have a
>template.
>
>John
Hi John,
I thank you for your interesting suggestion, but if I am
understanding you correctly, there would be a difficulty:
I need to get the shape of the instrument's cross-section
about 6" from the tailpiece end rather than an outline of
the instrument at its widest point.
How could the photo approach you suggest do that?
Thanks again,
--
Kenneth
If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."