Newbie here. I finished out an attic to make a bedroom. On either
side of the new room, I have built-in drawer units that hold 2 columns
of 4 drawers each. Since these units follow the pitch of the roof,
the bottom 2 drawers in each unit are 48" long; the next ones up are
32"; next, 24"; the top drawers are 10" long. All of the drawers are
30" wide and 6.5" deep, constructed of 1/2" sanded plywood with fir
fronts.
I'm confused about drawer slides. I'm pretty sure I'd like full
extension slides, but the only 48" slides I could find are really
expensive. I have 4 of these 48" drawers, and I'd rather not spend
$400-500 on hardware for them. I'm wondering if I can use a shorter
slide, say a 28" full extension for the 48" drawers. I know it
wouldn't open as much as a 48" slide would, but can it be installed?
If so, I could use any helpful tips. I am open to any suggestions.
Thank you,
Dan
p.s. I notice other folks put some phoney characters in their email
addresses. Did I screw the pooch by using my real one? Will I be
bombarded by spam and viruses?
> I'm confused about drawer slides. I'm pretty sure I'd like full
> extension slides, but the only 48" slides I could find are really
Just because the space is 48" does not mean the drawer has to be that
large. I think you would be hard pressed to find a drawer that deep in
similar furniture. I would suggest the drawer units to have depths of
10", 24", 30", and 30".
Do you actually need full-extension slides? "Regular" slides work just
fine, and are much cheaper. I don't use the full-extension variety
without a good reason. Take the extra money and put it into sandpaper
and finishing.
> p.s. I notice other folks put some phoney characters in their email
> addresses. Did I screw the pooch by using my real one? Will I be
> bombarded by spam and viruses?
Um... probably. But since you have an AOL address you are probably used
to that. ;D Seriously, AOL filters a lot of that stuff, though you may
notice an increase.
> I'm confused about drawer slides. I'm pretty sure I'd like full
> extension slides, but the only 48" slides I could find are really
> expensive. I have 4 of these 48" drawers, and I'd rather not spend
> $400-500 on hardware for them. I'm wondering if I can use a shorter
> slide, say a 28" full extension for the 48" drawers. I know it
> wouldn't open as much as a 48" slide would, but can it be installed?
> If so, I could use any helpful tips. I am open to any suggestions.
For the bottom drawers you could probably use rollers instead of slides.
Dirt cheap too.
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.asp?page=43617&category=3%2C43614&SID=&ccurrency=1
I agree. However if you wax the slides, you don't need to worry much
about the loads. The drawers for my tools are considerably smaller,
but some carry very hefty loads. I built a chest with drawers the
width of a single bed by 20 inches deep for my kid when he was small.
He loaded some of those drawer with a lot of weight and never had a
problem.
Mike Hide wrote:
>
> why not just build the 48" drawers like normal drawer construction was done
> with out slides . lightly loaded would be good ,such as sweater storage,
> remember you don't have to keep potatoes in it....mjh
>
> --
> http://members.tripod.com/mikehide2
> "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > >
> > > I'm confused about drawer slides. I'm pretty sure I'd like full
> > > extension slides, but the only 48" slides I could find are really
> > > expensive. I have 4 of these 48" drawers, and I'd rather not spend
> > > $400-500 on hardware for them. I'm wondering if I can use a shorter
> > > slide, say a 28" full extension for the 48" drawers. I know it
> > > wouldn't open as much as a 48" slide would, but can it be installed?
> > > If so, I could use any helpful tips. I am open to any suggestions.
> >
> > I've not seen the 48" slides, but just think about this: How much
> potential
> > weight can be put into a 30 x 48 drawer? The slides have to be rather
> hefty
> > to handle the load when extended fully. Pick up a 48" stick at the end.
> > Now hook that 48" under a 10 pound bag of potatoes. Leverage is a
> wonderful
> > thing.
> >
> > I'd either go with a shorter extension or look at another method of
> handling
> > the drawers that will give good support.
> >
> >
> > >
> > > p.s. I notice other folks put some phoney characters in their email
> > > addresses. Did I screw the pooch by using my real one? Will I be
> > > bombarded by spam and viruses?
> >
> > I have a few email addresses. One has never been used to send mail, only
> to
> > receive it. It gets 20 spams a day on average. I use one at work and
> post
> > to newsgroups on a regular basis. Never got a single piece of spam at
> that
> > address. One factor is how easily the random name generators can come up
> > with your address.
> >
> >
Sagging of 1/2 plywood over a 30 inch width shouldn't be a concern
especially with 6.5" deep drawers, unless the drawer is intended for
canned good. If the op is concerned, however, adding a center support
across the width of the drawer would be simple and need not be higher
than 2 inches.
NoOne N Particular wrote:
>
> A 48x30 drawer is pretty big so even with 1/2" plywood bottoms, I would be
> concerned about the bottoms sagging over time.
>
> Wayne
>
> "Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Newbie here. I finished out an attic to make a bedroom. On either
> > side of the new room, I have built-in drawer units that hold 2 columns
> > of 4 drawers each. Since these units follow the pitch of the roof,
> > the bottom 2 drawers in each unit are 48" long; the next ones up are
> > 32"; next, 24"; the top drawers are 10" long. All of the drawers are
> > 30" wide and 6.5" deep, constructed of 1/2" sanded plywood with fir
> > fronts.
> >
> > I'm confused about drawer slides. I'm pretty sure I'd like full
> > extension slides, but the only 48" slides I could find are really
> > expensive. I have 4 of these 48" drawers, and I'd rather not spend
> > $400-500 on hardware for them. I'm wondering if I can use a shorter
> > slide, say a 28" full extension for the 48" drawers. I know it
> > wouldn't open as much as a 48" slide would, but can it be installed?
> > If so, I could use any helpful tips. I am open to any suggestions.
> >
> > Thank you,
> >
> > Dan
> >
> > p.s. I notice other folks put some phoney characters in their email
> > addresses. Did I screw the pooch by using my real one? Will I be
> > bombarded by spam and viruses?
On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 17:12:17 GMT, igor <[email protected]> wrote:
|On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 07:52:55 -0700, Wes Stewart <n7ws_@_yahoo.com> wrote:
|>
|>I built a drawer to go into the storage bay under the dinette seat in
|>my travel trailer that is 48" deep. If you are willing to give up
|>another inch in width, (might be too late for you) you can use two
|>sets of slides bolted together to get the full extension. You will
|>likely have to make some custom length screws to join them without
|>interference but it can be done.
|>
|Very clever!
Thanks. Poverty is the mother of invention... or something like that
[g]
Wes
You could put a drawer inside a drawer. On the 48" use a 28" glide and
a 20" for the inside drawer. Reverse contents each season.
On 24 Jul 2004 02:15:03 -0700, [email protected] (Dan) wrote:
>Newbie here. I finished out an attic to make a bedroom. On either
>side of the new room, I have built-in drawer units that hold 2 columns
>of 4 drawers each. Since these units follow the pitch of the roof,
>the bottom 2 drawers in each unit are 48" long; the next ones up are
>32"; next, 24"; the top drawers are 10" long. All of the drawers are
>30" wide and 6.5" deep, constructed of 1/2" sanded plywood with fir
>fronts.
>
>I'm confused about drawer slides. I'm pretty sure I'd like full
>extension slides, but the only 48" slides I could find are really
>expensive. I have 4 of these 48" drawers, and I'd rather not spend
>$400-500 on hardware for them. I'm wondering if I can use a shorter
>slide, say a 28" full extension for the 48" drawers. I know it
>wouldn't open as much as a 48" slide would, but can it be installed?
>If so, I could use any helpful tips. I am open to any suggestions.
>
>Thank you,
>
>Dan
>
>p.s. I notice other folks put some phoney characters in their email
>addresses. Did I screw the pooch by using my real one? Will I be
>bombarded by spam and viruses?
Why not just buy slides that are prebuilt like that and save yourself
the headaches. Like the ones in the link.
http://www.richelieu.com/Products/InfoProduit.asp?FromFav=1&noProduit=4179024&type=C§ion=
There is a reason why you don't want to build drawers more than 24 inch deep
or 30 inch wide. They become to cumbersome first of all and tend to twist
while moving them in and out. And also as Ed stated the leverage factor will
break the slides.
I never understand why people don't just buy the right hardware first of
all instead of wasting time and effort to jury rig something that nine out
of ten times dose not work the way it is suppose to or not work at all and
then end up with more problems than you started with. It is like spending
dollars to save a nickels.Anything worth doing is worth doing right in stead
of half assed and not being happy with the results.
Chris
"Wes Stewart" <n7ws_@_yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 24 Jul 2004 02:15:03 -0700, [email protected] (Dan) wrote:
>
> |Newbie here. I finished out an attic to make a bedroom. On either
> |side of the new room, I have built-in drawer units that hold 2 columns
> |of 4 drawers each. Since these units follow the pitch of the roof,
> |the bottom 2 drawers in each unit are 48" long; the next ones up are
> |32"; next, 24"; the top drawers are 10" long. All of the drawers are
> |30" wide and 6.5" deep, constructed of 1/2" sanded plywood with fir
> |fronts.
> |
> |I'm confused about drawer slides. I'm pretty sure I'd like full
> |extension slides, but the only 48" slides I could find are really
> |expensive. I have 4 of these 48" drawers, and I'd rather not spend
> |$400-500 on hardware for them. I'm wondering if I can use a shorter
> |slide, say a 28" full extension for the 48" drawers. I know it
> |wouldn't open as much as a 48" slide would, but can it be installed?
> |If so, I could use any helpful tips. I am open to any suggestions.
>
> I built a drawer to go into the storage bay under the dinette seat in
> my travel trailer that is 48" deep. If you are willing to give up
> another inch in width, (might be too late for you) you can use two
> sets of slides bolted together to get the full extension. You will
> likely have to make some custom length screws to join them without
> interference but it can be done.
>
> You also have to think about drawer loading since at some point there
> is going to be some significant cantilever.
>
> Otherwise, you can use shorter slides and put up with blindly digging
> in the back of the drawer.
>
> |
> |Thank you,
> |
> |Dan
> |
> |p.s. I notice other folks put some phoney characters in their email
> |addresses. Did I screw the pooch by using my real one? Will I be
> |bombarded by spam and viruses?
>
> Yes
>
A 48x30 drawer is pretty big so even with 1/2" plywood bottoms, I would be
concerned about the bottoms sagging over time.
Wayne
"Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Newbie here. I finished out an attic to make a bedroom. On either
> side of the new room, I have built-in drawer units that hold 2 columns
> of 4 drawers each. Since these units follow the pitch of the roof,
> the bottom 2 drawers in each unit are 48" long; the next ones up are
> 32"; next, 24"; the top drawers are 10" long. All of the drawers are
> 30" wide and 6.5" deep, constructed of 1/2" sanded plywood with fir
> fronts.
>
> I'm confused about drawer slides. I'm pretty sure I'd like full
> extension slides, but the only 48" slides I could find are really
> expensive. I have 4 of these 48" drawers, and I'd rather not spend
> $400-500 on hardware for them. I'm wondering if I can use a shorter
> slide, say a 28" full extension for the 48" drawers. I know it
> wouldn't open as much as a 48" slide would, but can it be installed?
> If so, I could use any helpful tips. I am open to any suggestions.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Dan
>
> p.s. I notice other folks put some phoney characters in their email
> addresses. Did I screw the pooch by using my real one? Will I be
> bombarded by spam and viruses?
Several people have wandered about the value of 48 inch deep drawers.
I would have used them for storing prints and other artwork and
artwork supplies, linens, out of season clothes and blankets.
We usually do not see such drawers because they stick out 48 inches
from the wall and hence people do not get them; when such drawers do
exist they, do not have full extensions so you can get to the
back of them.
As for different lengths, full extension slides do exist for all
the lengths Dan wants. Dan can use different strengths of slides
and hence different price categories depending on the expected
weight of the drawer and contents. The 48 inch price sounds like
an extra heavy duty slide for an equipment cabinet or file drawer.
Dan wrote:
> Newbie here. I finished out an attic to make a bedroom. On either
> side of the new room, I have built-in drawer units that hold 2 columns
> of 4 drawers each. Since these units follow the pitch of the roof,
> the bottom 2 drawers in each unit are 48" long; the next ones up are
> 32"; next, 24"; the top drawers are 10" long. All of the drawers are
> 30" wide and 6.5" deep, constructed of 1/2" sanded plywood with fir
> fronts.
>
> I'm confused about drawer slides. I'm pretty sure I'd like full
> extension slides, but the only 48" slides I could find are really
> expensive. I have 4 of these 48" drawers, and I'd rather not spend
> $400-500 on hardware for them. I'm wondering if I can use a shorter
> slide, say a 28" full extension for the 48" drawers. I know it
> wouldn't open as much as a 48" slide would, but can it be installed?
> If so, I could use any helpful tips. I am open to any suggestions.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Dan
>
> p.s. I notice other folks put some phoney characters in their email
> addresses. Did I screw the pooch by using my real one? Will I be
> bombarded by spam and viruses?
They "do" make a 48" full extension slide...(500lb load)
http://www.wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm?GroupID=Cabinet%20Drawer%20Slides&CatID=Drawer%20Slides%2C%20KV%20Heavy%20Duty&SubCatID=%20500%23%20Class%20Precision%20Ball%20Bearing%20Slides
At $175 a pair, I would consider other options...
Dan wrote:
> Newbie here. I finished out an attic to make a bedroom. On either
> side of the new room, I have built-in drawer units that hold 2 columns
> of 4 drawers each. Since these units follow the pitch of the roof,
> the bottom 2 drawers in each unit are 48" long; the next ones up are
> 32"; next, 24"; the top drawers are 10" long. All of the drawers are
> 30" wide and 6.5" deep, constructed of 1/2" sanded plywood with fir
> fronts.
>
> I'm confused about drawer slides. I'm pretty sure I'd like full
> extension slides, but the only 48" slides I could find are really
> expensive. I have 4 of these 48" drawers, and I'd rather not spend
> $400-500 on hardware for them. I'm wondering if I can use a shorter
> slide, say a 28" full extension for the 48" drawers. I know it
> wouldn't open as much as a 48" slide would, but can it be installed?
> If so, I could use any helpful tips. I am open to any suggestions.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Dan
>
> p.s. I notice other folks put some phoney characters in their email
> addresses. Did I screw the pooch by using my real one? Will I be
> bombarded by spam and viruses?
igor <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 07:52:55 -0700, Wes Stewart <n7ws_@_yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> >I built a drawer to go into the storage bay under the dinette seat in
> >my travel trailer that is 48" deep. If you are willing to give up
> >another inch in width, (might be too late for you) you can use two
> >sets of slides bolted together to get the full extension. You will
> >likely have to make some custom length screws to join them without
> >interference but it can be done.
> >
> Very clever!
Thanks to everyone who replied. Since the drawers and cabinets are
already built, I think I'll go with shorter slides. I that case, I
assume the best way to install them would be to center the slides on
the drawers. Again, open to guidance and suggestions.
Dan
Woodworkers Hardware might have what you want. wwhardware.com
On 24 Jul 2004 16:53:24 -0700, [email protected] (Dan) wrote:
>igor <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 07:52:55 -0700, Wes Stewart <n7ws_@_yahoo.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >I built a drawer to go into the storage bay under the dinette seat in
>> >my travel trailer that is 48" deep. If you are willing to give up
>> >another inch in width, (might be too late for you) you can use two
>> >sets of slides bolted together to get the full extension. You will
>> >likely have to make some custom length screws to join them without
>> >interference but it can be done.
>> >
>> Very clever!
>
>Thanks to everyone who replied. Since the drawers and cabinets are
>already built, I think I'll go with shorter slides. I that case, I
>assume the best way to install them would be to center the slides on
>the drawers. Again, open to guidance and suggestions.
>
>Dan
"Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> I'm confused about drawer slides. I'm pretty sure I'd like full
> extension slides, but the only 48" slides I could find are really
> expensive. I have 4 of these 48" drawers, and I'd rather not spend
> $400-500 on hardware for them. I'm wondering if I can use a shorter
> slide, say a 28" full extension for the 48" drawers. I know it
> wouldn't open as much as a 48" slide would, but can it be installed?
> If so, I could use any helpful tips. I am open to any suggestions.
I've not seen the 48" slides, but just think about this: How much potential
weight can be put into a 30 x 48 drawer? The slides have to be rather hefty
to handle the load when extended fully. Pick up a 48" stick at the end.
Now hook that 48" under a 10 pound bag of potatoes. Leverage is a wonderful
thing.
I'd either go with a shorter extension or look at another method of handling
the drawers that will give good support.
>
> p.s. I notice other folks put some phoney characters in their email
> addresses. Did I screw the pooch by using my real one? Will I be
> bombarded by spam and viruses?
I have a few email addresses. One has never been used to send mail, only to
receive it. It gets 20 spams a day on average. I use one at work and post
to newsgroups on a regular basis. Never got a single piece of spam at that
address. One factor is how easily the random name generators can come up
with your address.
why not just build the 48" drawers like normal drawer construction was done
with out slides . lightly loaded would be good ,such as sweater storage,
remember you don't have to keep potatoes in it....mjh
--
http://members.tripod.com/mikehide2
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >
> > I'm confused about drawer slides. I'm pretty sure I'd like full
> > extension slides, but the only 48" slides I could find are really
> > expensive. I have 4 of these 48" drawers, and I'd rather not spend
> > $400-500 on hardware for them. I'm wondering if I can use a shorter
> > slide, say a 28" full extension for the 48" drawers. I know it
> > wouldn't open as much as a 48" slide would, but can it be installed?
> > If so, I could use any helpful tips. I am open to any suggestions.
>
> I've not seen the 48" slides, but just think about this: How much
potential
> weight can be put into a 30 x 48 drawer? The slides have to be rather
hefty
> to handle the load when extended fully. Pick up a 48" stick at the end.
> Now hook that 48" under a 10 pound bag of potatoes. Leverage is a
wonderful
> thing.
>
> I'd either go with a shorter extension or look at another method of
handling
> the drawers that will give good support.
>
>
> >
> > p.s. I notice other folks put some phoney characters in their email
> > addresses. Did I screw the pooch by using my real one? Will I be
> > bombarded by spam and viruses?
>
> I have a few email addresses. One has never been used to send mail, only
to
> receive it. It gets 20 spams a day on average. I use one at work and
post
> to newsgroups on a regular basis. Never got a single piece of spam at
that
> address. One factor is how easily the random name generators can come up
> with your address.
>
>
Or just put a short box in the back of drawer.
On 24 Jul 2004 02:15:03 -0700, [email protected] (Dan) wrote:
>Newbie here. I finished out an attic to make a bedroom. On either
>side of the new room, I have built-in drawer units that hold 2 columns
>of 4 drawers each. Since these units follow the pitch of the roof,
>the bottom 2 drawers in each unit are 48" long; the next ones up are
>32"; next, 24"; the top drawers are 10" long. All of the drawers are
>30" wide and 6.5" deep, constructed of 1/2" sanded plywood with fir
>fronts.
>
>I'm confused about drawer slides. I'm pretty sure I'd like full
>extension slides, but the only 48" slides I could find are really
>expensive. I have 4 of these 48" drawers, and I'd rather not spend
>$400-500 on hardware for them. I'm wondering if I can use a shorter
>slide, say a 28" full extension for the 48" drawers. I know it
>wouldn't open as much as a 48" slide would, but can it be installed?
>If so, I could use any helpful tips. I am open to any suggestions.
>
>Thank you,
>
>Dan
>
>p.s. I notice other folks put some phoney characters in their email
>addresses. Did I screw the pooch by using my real one? Will I be
>bombarded by spam and viruses?
On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 07:52:55 -0700, Wes Stewart <n7ws_@_yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>I built a drawer to go into the storage bay under the dinette seat in
>my travel trailer that is 48" deep. If you are willing to give up
>another inch in width, (might be too late for you) you can use two
>sets of slides bolted together to get the full extension. You will
>likely have to make some custom length screws to join them without
>interference but it can be done.
>
Very clever!
On 24 Jul 2004 02:15:03 -0700, [email protected] (Dan) wrote:
|Newbie here. I finished out an attic to make a bedroom. On either
|side of the new room, I have built-in drawer units that hold 2 columns
|of 4 drawers each. Since these units follow the pitch of the roof,
|the bottom 2 drawers in each unit are 48" long; the next ones up are
|32"; next, 24"; the top drawers are 10" long. All of the drawers are
|30" wide and 6.5" deep, constructed of 1/2" sanded plywood with fir
|fronts.
|
|I'm confused about drawer slides. I'm pretty sure I'd like full
|extension slides, but the only 48" slides I could find are really
|expensive. I have 4 of these 48" drawers, and I'd rather not spend
|$400-500 on hardware for them. I'm wondering if I can use a shorter
|slide, say a 28" full extension for the 48" drawers. I know it
|wouldn't open as much as a 48" slide would, but can it be installed?
|If so, I could use any helpful tips. I am open to any suggestions.
I built a drawer to go into the storage bay under the dinette seat in
my travel trailer that is 48" deep. If you are willing to give up
another inch in width, (might be too late for you) you can use two
sets of slides bolted together to get the full extension. You will
likely have to make some custom length screws to join them without
interference but it can be done.
You also have to think about drawer loading since at some point there
is going to be some significant cantilever.
Otherwise, you can use shorter slides and put up with blindly digging
in the back of the drawer.
|
|Thank you,
|
|Dan
|
|p.s. I notice other folks put some phoney characters in their email
|addresses. Did I screw the pooch by using my real one? Will I be
|bombarded by spam and viruses?
Yes
On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 19:57:30 GMT, "Chris Melanson"
<[email protected]> rants:
| Why not just buy slides that are prebuilt like that and save yourself
|the headaches. Like the ones in the link.
|http://www.richelieu.com/Products/InfoProduit.asp?FromFav=1&noProduit=4179024&type=C§ion=
http://www.destgulch.com/movies/luke/luke18.wav
Maybe because those slides aren't what I'm talking about?
Or that I could buy my hardware locally and assemble it in the time it
took to download Richelieu's web site info.
|There is a reason why you don't want to build drawers more than 24 inch deep
|or 30 inch wide. They become to cumbersome first of all and tend to twist
|while moving them in and out. And also as Ed stated the leverage factor will
|break the slides.
I didn't know that. Neither does my heavily loaded, 24" wide, 48"
deep, 10" high drawer that has bumped around right over the badly
sprung axle in my fifth-wheel trailer for over 20K miles. [g]
| I never understand why people don't just buy the right hardware first of
|all instead of wasting time and effort to jury rig something that nine out
|of ten times dose not work the way it is suppose to or not work at all and
|then end up with more problems than you started with. It is like spending
|dollars to save a nickels.Anything worth doing is worth doing right in stead
|of half assed and not being happy with the results.
Me neither, yes and yes.
[email protected] (Dan) writes:
[...]
> of 4 drawers each. Since these units follow the pitch of the roof,
> the bottom 2 drawers in each unit are 48" long; the next ones up are
[...]
> extension slides, but the only 48" slides I could find are really
> expensive. I have 4 of these 48" drawers, and I'd rather not spend
If you alredy built the drawers this advice probably comes too late,
but if not: You could make just ONE bottom drawer on each side unad
not use drawer slides at all but rather put wheels under it and let it
ride on the floor, then you can pull it out all the way without problems.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23