Dust free place to apply poly

On 6/27/2012 4:30 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 6/27/2012 2:29 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Doug Miller wrote:
>>
>>> Don't worry about it, Bill. Dust is inevitable. You can't prevent it.
>>> Instead, you cope with it.
>>>
>>> Here's how:
>>>
>>> Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding,
>>> planing, scraping, or
>>> whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber cloth to remove dust
>>> from the surface. Then
>>> apply your first coat of wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand
>>> the surface with 400-grit
>>> sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber cloth, and apply another
>>> coat. Repeat. Repeat
>>> again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once more, using either 600-
>>> or 800-grit. When dry,
>>> sand with 1000-grit or finer (available at nearly any auto parts
>>> store), and wipe with the
>>> microfiber cloth. You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.
>>
>> Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
>> cloth. I've got a tack rag too. I was going to rub with a rag with
>> denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the first
>> coat.
>>
>> While we're on this topic, the state of my knowledge is that 320, say,
>> Aluminum Oxide sand paper (designed for wood) is similarly abrasive to
>> 320 grit Silicon Carbide ("wet or dry"), except the later is designed
>> for metal. I know the Aluminum Oxide breaks down as you use it, helping
>> to keep the paper free of dust. I might guess I might actually want to
>> use water, if I was following the procedure Doug outlined, just to keep
>> the paper usable. Do I need to correct any of this?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bill
>>
>
> A follow up to my gel varnish suggestion....
>
> I just came in from the shop. I applied Old Masters Gel Varnish to the
> top, bottom, and front edge of 16 shelves and to the fronts of 6 cabinet
> backs,approximately 14"x75"
>
> After applying the varnish to one side I immediately flipped them over
> on the fresh surface to do the other side, one at a time. When finished
> with each I picked them up with no worry of dust or prints and stood
> them on end with a fan blowing on them.
>
> That took about 2.5 hours.
>
> I know you already have your varnish but go buy a can of Old Masters and
> skip all the preparation that goes with liquid varnishes. BTY no
> scuffing between coats either.
>
> Use sparingly, I used 1/2 quart. Subsequent coats will take much less.
>
>
>
>
>


I have been varnishing the interior woodwork on my sailboat and only
have a single wall and some trim left to do. But no varnish left.

I think I'll give your Old MAsters Gel a try See what that's like.

On 6/28/2012 10:18 AM, HerHusband wrote:
>>> Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding,
>>> planing, scraping, or whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber
>>> cloth to remove dust from the surface. Then apply your first coat of
>>> wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand the surface with 400-grit
>>> sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber cloth, and apply another
>>> coat. Repeat. Repeat again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once
>>> more, using either 600- or 800-grit. When dry, sand with 1000-grit or
>>> finer (available at nearly any auto parts store), and wipe with the
>>> microfiber cloth. You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.
>
>> Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
>> cloth. I've got a tack rag too. I was going to rub with a rag with
>> denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the first
>> coat.
>
> I use my shop vac with a brush attachment. This pulls dust out of the
> pores, lets me clean tight areas like the inside corners of cabinets, and
> cleans out recesses like dado's or shelf pin holes. For me the shop vac is
> faster, easier, and more thorough than trying to wipe the dust off.

I use my Festool sanders and Festool dust extractor, not dust to remove!
;~)




>
> No matter what you do, the first coat of poly will always have little dust
> nibs and raised wood fibers. Do a light sanding with 320 grit and clean
> with the shop vac again between coats. Works great for me even in a dusty
> garage workshop.


That will depend on the type poly you are using, I typically dont have
that problem with gel varnishes since they dry so fast. If I do have
the occasional nib I use printer paper to smooth up the surface.




>
> Anthony

Doug Miller wrote:
> Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>>
>> I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
>> small project. This is my first time around on this.
>>
>> The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible
>> candidate. How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box,
>> lying on it's side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate!
>> : )
>
> Don't worry about it, Bill. Dust is inevitable. You can't prevent it.
> Instead, you cope with it.
>
> Here's how:
>
> Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding,
> planing, scraping, or
> whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber cloth to remove dust
> from the surface. Then
> apply your first coat of wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand
> the surface with 400-grit sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber
> cloth, and apply another coat. Repeat. Repeat
> again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once more, using either 600-
> or 800-grit. When dry, sand with 1000-grit or finer (available at
> nearly any auto parts store), and wipe with the microfiber cloth.
> You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.

And... if you want a high gloss shine, just rub it down with buffing
compound after the 1000 grit. It's available at auto parts stores as well.
It will take some elbow grease to get 1000 grit scratches out with buffing
compound, but it's a labor of love. You can get a small buffing wheel that
will chuck into your cordless drill that will make that work much easier.
Just be very careful around edges when using a buffing wheel. You don't
want to burn through your finish. Hit the edges by hand. You can use an
old Tee shirt or terry cloth towels for the hand buffing.

Doug is right - you can turn out a glass like finish this way - if that's
what you are after.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Leon wrote:
> This varnish, NOT the one preciously posted.
>
>
> This one
> GEL VARNISH
>
> http://www.myoldmasters.com/products-intclear-oilbased-gelpoly.htm

Still impressed by the drying times you're getting.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>> I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
>>> small project. This is my first time around on this.
>>>
>>
>> Why?
>
>
> When I was reading about applying a polyurethane finish, there was
> a great deal of concern about dust (specks), etc. I just wanted to
> try to get it right. It's not like I didn't do some homework on
> finishing with polyurethane before posting. If I had, I might have
> ended up with the gel Leon suggested instead of Minwax "wipe on" poly
> product. I haven't investigated the gel, but I do suspect that what
> I bought will give me a suitable finish.
>
> Does that answer your question?

Sure did, but don't let the matter of dust get too big in your mind. You
can easily finish wood in what you might think is too dusty an environment.
A little clean up, a little time for everything to settle, maybe a mist of
water as someone else suggested, and you'd be surprised at how quickly that
dust is not the issue you feared it may be. Even if you do get a little
dust in your finish, a little light sanding and polishing and you're good to
go.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Bill wrote:

>
> Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
> cloth. I've got a tack rag too. I was going to rub with a rag with
> denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the first
> coat.

No - Tee shirt material is not micro fiber. But... it works very well.
Before micro fiber became the rage of the age, it's what we used. Works
just fine. Frankly - I don't think micro fiber works any better - it's just
the rage of the age.


> While we're on this topic, the state of my knowledge is that 320, say,
> Aluminum Oxide sand paper (designed for wood) is similarly abrasive to
> 320 grit Silicon Carbide ("wet or dry"), except the later is designed
> for metal. I know the Aluminum Oxide breaks down as you use it,
> helping to keep the paper free of dust. I might guess I might
> actually want to use water, if I was following the procedure Doug
> outlined, just to keep the paper usable. Do I need to correct any of
> this?

For one - don't worry about the difference between 320 aluminum oxide and
320 silicon carbide. Not enough difference to worry about. Wet sanding is
generally better than dry sanding because it carries away the grit that you
create, but that too is not an absolute. You can dry sand very well. Just
be careful to watch for you paper loading up and creating scratches. Even
wet will do that, but not as quickly. It's not a matter of one over the
other, as much as it is your watchful eye. Both techniques will serve you
well. I turn out mirror finish paint jobs on cars and I use both
techniques, depending on circumstances. You can do the same with wood.


--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Bill wrote:

>
> Concerning the small project I am going to finish: This IS some
> drywall dust in my shop, since some things are "under construction".
> I guess I just got a little paranoid after reading the writings of
> people who were uptight about the whole process (I too have gotten
> dust in my varnish before, under better conditions than I have now).
> Having had a few more hours to think about it however, my process
> will be better--I will tape up the parts I don't want to get finish
> on and use duck tape to bound my piece to a short length of EMT, or
> whatever else is handy.

I'd use wire to hang it instead of duct tape. It does not have to be any
more secure than what is necessary to make it secure, and there is no
adhesive mess left behind with wire. Don't be afraid to use paper - even
newspaper, to mask off areas you don't want to get finish on. The less tape
you use, the better - the happier you will be afterwards. Fortunately, with
hand applications you have much more control over where the finish goes than
you do with spray applications.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Leon wrote:

>
> Ok here is the link and the instructions, the way I do it. I use a
> blue "Scotts" shop paper towel cut in half and folded to make an
> applicator about 1"x2" I apply the gel varnish liberally but not so
> much that I have lumps of excess on the surface. Do only about a
> 1~1.5 square foot area and immediately wipe smooth with a t-shirt
> material rag, about 18" square. Precede to finish the surface in the
> same 1-1.5 square feet at a time. If your first wipe down rag gets
> saturated relatively early you are applying too much varnish. Put
> down too little varnish and it becomes a tedious task. You will get
> the hang of it.
> When finished with that surface, "wipe it down a second time" with
> "another clean t-shirt rag of similar size. Use the first for initial
> wipe down use the second for second wipe down. Eventually the first
> will get pretty saturated. The second will remain relatively clean.
>
> Flip the piece over and do the other side. No worries about the
> freshly varnished surface. Repeat about 4 hours later 2~3 times.
>
> NOTE! Be absolutely certain you do not skip the step of the second
> wipe down when the panel is completely covered and wiped down the
> first time of it could take 2~3 days to dry. DAMHIKT! It took me
> until my 3rd quart to realize how that works. ;~)
>
> Dust is not a problem and subsequent coats go on with out prep.
>
>
> http://www.myoldmasters.com/products-intclear-oilbasedpoly.htm
>
> Expensive, about $23 per quart but if your time is valuable and you
> want a "satin" finish that is consistent and smooth as a baby's butt
> you might find it money well spent. I buy it locally from a paint
> company a case at a time for $16 per quart. I have been using gel
> varnishes almost exclusively for about 23 years and this stuff is the
> best so far.

I'm impressed. I would not have expected a poly to dry that fast.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

>
> I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
> small project. This is my first time around on this.
>
> The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible
> candidate. How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box,
> lying on it's side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate! : )

What's so bad about it? A morton building with a dirt floor and open door
would be a terrible place, but the garage with concrete floor not so much.
Just don't go making a bunch of sawdust or do a bunch of cleaning with the
air compressor.

*snip*

>
> P.S. While I'm writing, please allow me to ask another question. Should
> any finish of any sort be applied to my newly made workbench (I'm
> reminded of Scotch-Guard that people apply to their furniture)? I'm
> tempted to just use it as-is, but my sister asked me to send her a
> picture after I painted it! Ha!

I applied shellac smoothed with steel wool and wax to mine. It made the
top smooth and sorta slick, which is good for a table saw infeed table but
not necessarily good for a work bench.

The nice thing about shop furniture is that it doesn't need a finish. The
other nice thing is that you won't enjoy it less if the finish is done
poorly.

*snip*

>
> Cheers,
> Bill
>



--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
> small project. This is my first time around on this.
>
> The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible candidate.
> How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box, lying on it's
> side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate! : )
>
> BTW, my project is a 12" honing strop including a handle, in Hard Maple,
> and it's the first project off of my new workbench. It's a good learning
> opportunity and I would like it to make a good impression on my
> woodcarving friends (at least one of which I'm trying to "sell" on
> woodworking). Considering what the piece looks like now, about 3 hours
> after I cut it off of my bandsaw (with wavy cuts), I feel fortunate (or
> lucky) that it has come out as well as it did! That was the first time I
> used my bandsaw on a project too.
>
>
> P.S. While I'm writing, please allow me to ask another question. Should
> any finish of any sort be applied to my newly made workbench (I'm reminded
> of Scotch-Guard that people apply to their furniture)? I'm tempted to
> just use it as-is, but my sister asked me to send her a picture after I
> painted it! Ha!
>
> P.S.S Does anyone else think Tommy Mac (on his TV show) gets his fingers
> too close to his table saw blade? I don't even have a table saw and I
> wouldn't be as cavalier! : )
>
> Cheers,
> Bill
>

With respect to the polyurethane issue:
A clean area is all that you need. It need not be a class 10,000 clean
room. Because polyurethane is a slow drying finish, you will always get
some dust nibs embedded in it. I simple dust all the horizontal surfaces in
my work area including the floor, let things settle for about fifteen
minutes, and then mist the floor with water to hold down any dust that might
get kicked up. Whenever I apply polyurethane, I always lightly sand every
coat to remove the nibs before applying the next coat. The top coat is the
one that requires rubbing out. This process will remove any last nibs and
can result in a smooth mirror finish if you put the time into it. If not,
you will have a very smooth finish that may have a few dust nibs but nothing
like the first coat.

Good Luck.

Ditto. Most of my work is utilitarian and the vac brush works great
between finishes. I do want to be more picky about the final coat of
finish (on visible parts of cabinets) though so I gotta get one of those
microfiber cloths and give it a whirl.

John S.

On 06/28/2012 06:09 PM, HerHusband wrote:
> ...
> If I was working on an heirloom piece of furniture, that level of detail
> might make sense. But, I'm usually building cabinets or other utility
> furniture that doesn't have to be perfect. For my needs, the shop vac and
> brush attachment work great. The brush loosens up any stubborn dust, and I
> have a fine filter bag in the vac to prevent the dust from being blown back
> into the air.
>
> Anthony
>

Leon wrote:

>
> I use my Festool sanders and Festool dust extractor, not dust to
> remove! ;~)
>

Oh hell - I use my air hose. Works like a top! It's just not painted
green...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Bill wrote:
> J. Clarke wrote:
>
>> Nothing magic about wipe-on poly that has special requirements. Just
>> vacuum off a surface and set your project down on it and go to town.
>>
>
> Thank you very much. I printed off a procedure that is a little more
> complicated (for instance, including sanding with 320 grit or steel
> wool after the 2nd coat), but your confidence makes me optimistic!
> I bought a tack rag anyway!

A tack rag is always a good idea. Just be careful not to apply any pressure
when wiping with one. You don't want to deposit anything from the rag to
the wood. A light wipe is what you are after.

>
> Actually, when I first started reading about the poly application--it
> made me consider dispensing with the whole idea of finishing it at
> all, but then I realized that doing that would be compromising both my
> project and myself (my opportunity to get a useful finishing
> experience).

Why? (dispense with the idea)

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On Jun 28, 8:23=A0am, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> On 6/27/2012 8:41 PM, Richard wrote:
>
> > I think I'll give your Old MAsters Gel a try See what that's like.
>
> It is an interior finish so if you think it is going to be exposed to
> water don't use it. =A0Be sure and wipe it down 2 times with separate
> wiping cloths after applying varnish. =A0Basically wipe it down smooth
> immediately and apply several coats.

Try Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. Wipe-on, fast dry, stays
water clear, durable enough for rifle stocks. No poly
AFAIK.

On 6/28/2012 6:09 PM, HerHusband wrote:
>> I use my Festool sanders and Festool dust extractor,
>> not dust to remove! ;~)
>
> I have my Dewalt ROS attached to my shop vac and it leaves behind virtually
> no dust either. :)
>
>> Oh hell - I use my air hose. Works like a top!
>
> I've never understood the air hose method. It may temporarily clear the
> dust off the work piece, but it also gets blown into the air where I'll
> breathe it in or have it settle back on the work piece.

Really and truly the fine dust in the air is not going to make a bit of
difference 99.999999% of the time. The air is naturally full of dust.
In 30 years I have never had a problem with blowing the dust and it
settling back down and causing more of a problem than normal dusting
doing the same.

On 6/27/2012 9:57 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Doug Miller wrote:
>> "Mike Marlow"<[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:3459$4feb74bd [email protected]:
>>
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
>>>> cloth. I've got a tack rag too. I was going to rub with a rag with
>>>> denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the
>>>> first coat.
>>>
>>> No - Tee shirt material is not micro fiber. But... it works very
>>> well. Before micro fiber became the rage of the age, it's what we
>>> used. Works just fine. Frankly - I don't think micro fiber works
>>> any better - it's just the rage of the age.
>>
>> Oh, yes, it does. Try the experiment I suggested to Bill: wipe a
>> freshly-sanded workpiece with a tee-shirt, as many times as you want.
>> Then wipe it again with a microfiber cloth, and see how much sawdust
>> the tee-shirt missed.
>
> I will try that. I do use micro fiber but I use it to wipe finishes off to
> a really nice shine - whether they are wood or metal finishes. I had never
> really noticed any real difference in dust pickup, but then again I was
> never really looking at that.
>

Microfiber makes an excellent micro fiber dust mop too.

http://www.mybonahome.com/home.html

On 6/27/2012 2:29 PM, Bill wrote:
> Doug Miller wrote:
>
>> Don't worry about it, Bill. Dust is inevitable. You can't prevent it.
>> Instead, you cope with it.
>>
>> Here's how:
>>
>> Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding,
>> planing, scraping, or
>> whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber cloth to remove dust
>> from the surface. Then
>> apply your first coat of wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand
>> the surface with 400-grit
>> sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber cloth, and apply another
>> coat. Repeat. Repeat
>> again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once more, using either 600-
>> or 800-grit. When dry,
>> sand with 1000-grit or finer (available at nearly any auto parts
>> store), and wipe with the
>> microfiber cloth. You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.
>
> Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
> cloth. I've got a tack rag too. I was going to rub with a rag with
> denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the first coat.
>
> While we're on this topic, the state of my knowledge is that 320, say,
> Aluminum Oxide sand paper (designed for wood) is similarly abrasive to
> 320 grit Silicon Carbide ("wet or dry"), except the later is designed
> for metal. I know the Aluminum Oxide breaks down as you use it, helping
> to keep the paper free of dust. I might guess I might actually want to
> use water, if I was following the procedure Doug outlined, just to keep
> the paper usable. Do I need to correct any of this?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>

A follow up to my gel varnish suggestion....

I just came in from the shop. I applied Old Masters Gel Varnish to the
top, bottom, and front edge of 16 shelves and to the fronts of 6 cabinet
backs,approximately 14"x75"

After applying the varnish to one side I immediately flipped them over
on the fresh surface to do the other side, one at a time. When finished
with each I picked them up with no worry of dust or prints and stood
them on end with a fan blowing on them.

That took about 2.5 hours.

I know you already have your varnish but go buy a can of Old Masters and
skip all the preparation that goes with liquid varnishes. BTY no
scuffing between coats either.

Use sparingly, I used 1/2 quart. Subsequent coats will take much less.

On 6/26/2012 4:57 PM, Bill wrote:
>
> I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
> small project. This is my first time around on this.
>
> The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible
> candidate. How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box, lying
> on it's side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate! : )
>
> BTW, my project is a 12" honing strop including a handle, in Hard Maple,
> and it's the first project off of my new workbench. It's a good learning
> opportunity and I would like it to make a good impression on my
> woodcarving friends (at least one of which I'm trying to "sell" on
> woodworking). Considering what the piece looks like now, about 3 hours
> after I cut it off of my bandsaw (with wavy cuts), I feel fortunate (or
> lucky) that it has come out as well as it did! That was the first time I
> used my bandsaw on a project too.
>
>
> P.S. While I'm writing, please allow me to ask another question. Should
> any finish of any sort be applied to my newly made workbench (I'm
> reminded of Scotch-Guard that people apply to their furniture)? I'm
> tempted to just use it as-is, but my sister asked me to send her a
> picture after I painted it! Ha!
>
> P.S.S Does anyone else think Tommy Mac (on his TV show) gets his fingers
> too close to his table saw blade? I don't even have a table saw and I
> wouldn't be as cavalier! : )
>
> Cheers,
> Bill
>

If you use a "GEL" wipe on varnish dust is pretty much a non issue
providing you don't purposely put dust on it. Dry to touch in 10 or
minutes.

>
>

This varnish, NOT the one preciously posted.


This one
GEL VARNISH

http://www.myoldmasters.com/products-intclear-oilbased-gelpoly.htm

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
> small project. This is my first time around on this.
>
> The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible
> candidate. How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box,
> lying on it's side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate! : )
>
> BTW, my project is a 12" honing strop including a handle, in Hard Maple,
> and it's the first project off of my new workbench. It's a good learning
> opportunity and I would like it to make a good impression on my
> woodcarving friends (at least one of which I'm trying to "sell" on
> woodworking). Considering what the piece looks like now, about 3 hours
> after I cut it off of my bandsaw (with wavy cuts), I feel fortunate (or
> lucky) that it has come out as well as it did! That was the first time I
> used my bandsaw on a project too.
>
>
> P.S. While I'm writing, please allow me to ask another question. Should
> any finish of any sort be applied to my newly made workbench (I'm
> reminded of Scotch-Guard that people apply to their furniture)? I'm
> tempted to just use it as-is, but my sister asked me to send her a
> picture after I painted it! Ha!
>
> P.S.S Does anyone else think Tommy Mac (on his TV show) gets his
> fingers too close to his table saw blade? I don't even have a table saw
> and I wouldn't be as cavalier! : )

Nothing magic about wipe-on poly that has special requirements. Just
vacuum off a surface and set your project down on it and go to town.

On 6/27/2012 8:46 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
> Bill<[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> Doug Miller wrote:
>>
>>> Don't worry about it, Bill. Dust is inevitable. You can't prevent it. Instead, you cope with it.
>>>
>>> Here's how:
>>>
>>> Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding, planing, scraping, or
>>> whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber cloth to remove dust from the surface. Then
>>> apply your first coat of wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand the surface with 400-grit
>>> sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber cloth, and apply another coat. Repeat.
> Repeat
>>> again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once more, using either 600- or 800-grit. When dry,
>>> sand with 1000-grit or finer (available at nearly any auto parts store), and wipe with the
>>> microfiber cloth. You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.
>>
>> Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
>> cloth.
>
> No, not at all. It's completely different stuff:
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microfiber
>
> Get some true microfiber cloth, e.g.
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-microfiber-cleaning-cloths-68440.html

FYI a much better deal at SamsClub, slightly larger and 24 for $12.

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=198756

I dry my truck with two of these after washing and they still pick up dirt.


>
> then wipe down a freshly-sanded piece with a t-shirt until you're convinced you have
> removed all the sawdust -- then wipe it again with the microfiber cloth. You will be
> astonished at how much dust remained after you were sure it was all gone.
>
> Always wash your microfiber cloths *by hand*. Put one in the laundry just once, and you'll
> discover that it picks up lint just as readily as it picks up sawdust.

We buy the big packs at Sams and collect them until we have a load for
the washer. We wash them by themselves, so no lint, and use no fabric
softener.

Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

>
> I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
> small project. This is my first time around on this.
>
> The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible
> candidate. How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box,
> lying on it's side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate! : )

Don't worry about it, Bill. Dust is inevitable. You can't prevent it. Instead, you cope with it.

Here's how:

Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding, planing, scraping, or
whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber cloth to remove dust from the surface. Then
apply your first coat of wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand the surface with 400-grit
sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber cloth, and apply another coat. Repeat. Repeat
again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once more, using either 600- or 800-grit. When dry,
sand with 1000-grit or finer (available at nearly any auto parts store), and wipe with the
microfiber cloth. You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.

Bill <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:

> Doug Miller wrote:
>
>> Don't worry about it, Bill. Dust is inevitable. You can't prevent it. Instead, you cope with it.
>>
>> Here's how:
>>
>> Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding, planing, scraping, or
>> whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber cloth to remove dust from the surface. Then
>> apply your first coat of wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand the surface with 400-grit
>> sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber cloth, and apply another coat. Repeat.
Repeat
>> again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once more, using either 600- or 800-grit. When dry,
>> sand with 1000-grit or finer (available at nearly any auto parts store), and wipe with the
>> microfiber cloth. You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.
>
> Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
> cloth.

No, not at all. It's completely different stuff:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microfiber

Get some true microfiber cloth, e.g.

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-microfiber-cleaning-cloths-68440.html

then wipe down a freshly-sanded piece with a t-shirt until you're convinced you have
removed all the sawdust -- then wipe it again with the microfiber cloth. You will be
astonished at how much dust remained after you were sure it was all gone.

Always wash your microfiber cloths *by hand*. Put one in the laundry just once, and you'll
discover that it picks up lint just as readily as it picks up sawdust.

>I've got a tack rag too.

So do I -- somewhere. I haven't used it since the first time I tried microfiber cloth, as
suggested by someone else here so long ago I've forgotten who or when. Probably close
to ten years.

>I was going to rub with a rag with
> denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the first coat.

Alcohol will raise the grain of the wood somewhat, not as much as water does, but still
noticeably. You may not be happy with the results.

A vacuum cleaner does a pretty good job of lifting dust from the pores of the wood. But you
still should use a microfiber cloth afterward.
>
> While we're on this topic, the state of my knowledge is that 320, say,
> Aluminum Oxide sand paper (designed for wood) is similarly abrasive to
> 320 grit Silicon Carbide ("wet or dry"), except the later is designed
> for metal.

Or plastic. It also works just fine on wood, and it's what I normally use for sanding between
coats of varnish.

Also note that grades finer than 320 are not widely available in anything but silicon carbide.
I've only rarely seen 600-grit aluminum oxide or garnet, and I've *never* seen it in 800 or
higher. Doesn't mean it doesn't exist, though. :-)

>I know the Aluminum Oxide breaks down as you use it, helping
> to keep the paper free of dust.

That's not an issue when sanding varnish between coats: a quarter-sheet of wet-or-dry
paper, *used dry*, will easily take care of 2 or 3 square feet of wood -- as long as the
varnish is dry. If the sandpaper loads uniformly with fine dust, that's great; if it loads in spots
with little clumps of varnish, you need to let it dry longer. If the varnish is the least bit sticky to
the touch, it's not ready to sand.

>I might guess I might actually want to
> use water, if I was following the procedure Doug outlined, just to keep
> the paper usable. Do I need to correct any of this?

Yes -- no water. The paper will stay usable long enough, and if you're using wipe-on poly
you don't want water anywhere your project until you have at least three or four coats on it.
The stuff gives a much thinner coat than brushed poly or sprayed lacquer, and a single
application is *not* waterproof.

"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in news:3459$4feb74bd
[email protected]:

> Bill wrote:
>
>>
>> Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
>> cloth. I've got a tack rag too. I was going to rub with a rag with
>> denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the first
>> coat.
>
> No - Tee shirt material is not micro fiber. But... it works very well.
> Before micro fiber became the rage of the age, it's what we used. Works
> just fine. Frankly - I don't think micro fiber works any better - it's just
> the rage of the age.

Oh, yes, it does. Try the experiment I suggested to Bill: wipe a freshly-sanded workpiece
with a tee-shirt, as many times as you want. Then wipe it again with a microfiber cloth, and
see how much sawdust the tee-shirt missed.

>> Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding,
>> planing, scraping, or whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber
>> cloth to remove dust from the surface. Then apply your first coat of
>> wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand the surface with 400-grit
>> sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber cloth, and apply another
>> coat. Repeat. Repeat again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once
>> more, using either 600- or 800-grit. When dry, sand with 1000-grit or
>> finer (available at nearly any auto parts store), and wipe with the
>> microfiber cloth. You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.

> Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
> cloth. I've got a tack rag too. I was going to rub with a rag with
> denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the first
> coat.

I use my shop vac with a brush attachment. This pulls dust out of the
pores, lets me clean tight areas like the inside corners of cabinets, and
cleans out recesses like dado's or shelf pin holes. For me the shop vac is
faster, easier, and more thorough than trying to wipe the dust off.

No matter what you do, the first coat of poly will always have little dust
nibs and raised wood fibers. Do a light sanding with 320 grit and clean
with the shop vac again between coats. Works great for me even in a dusty
garage workshop.

Anthony

HerHusband <[email protected]> wrote in news:XnsA080547C43EB7herhusband@
88.198.244.100:

>>> Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding,
>>> planing, scraping, or whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber
>>> cloth to remove dust from the surface. Then apply your first coat of
>>> wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand the surface with 400-grit
>>> sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber cloth, and apply another
>>> coat. Repeat. Repeat again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once
>>> more, using either 600- or 800-grit. When dry, sand with 1000-grit or
>>> finer (available at nearly any auto parts store), and wipe with the
>>> microfiber cloth. You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.
>
>> Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
>> cloth. I've got a tack rag too. I was going to rub with a rag with
>> denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the first
>> coat.
>
> I use my shop vac with a brush attachment. This pulls dust out of the
> pores, lets me clean tight areas like the inside corners of cabinets, and
> cleans out recesses like dado's or shelf pin holes. For me the shop vac is
> faster, easier, and more thorough than trying to wipe the dust off.

Next time, once you finish vacuuming, wipe the workpiece with a microfiber cloth to see how
much dust the vacuum failed to pick up. I predict you'll be surprised -- I know I was.
>
> No matter what you do, the first coat of poly will always have little dust
> nibs and raised wood fibers. Do a light sanding with 320 grit and clean
> with the shop vac again between coats. Works great for me even in a dusty
> garage workshop.

It'll work even better if you use a microfiber cloth between coats, instead of the shop vac.
Vacuum cleaners work very well for sawdust, but they really aren't very good at picking up
the very fine dust left by sanding with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper.

> I use my Festool sanders and Festool dust extractor,
> not dust to remove! ;~)

I have my Dewalt ROS attached to my shop vac and it leaves behind virtually
no dust either. :)

> Oh hell - I use my air hose. Works like a top!

I've never understood the air hose method. It may temporarily clear the
dust off the work piece, but it also gets blown into the air where I'll
breathe it in or have it settle back on the work piece.

> Next time, once you finish vacuuming, wipe the workpiece with a
> microfiber cloth to see how much dust the vacuum failed to pick up.

I actually did that recently while finishing some cabinets for my in-laws.
I received a free microfiber cloth with a Rockler order and decided to try
it out. There was a VERY minor bit of dust left from the shop vac, but not
enough to worry about. On the other hand, some woods (especially birch
plywood) really snags the cloth, even when sanded smooth. Not to mention,
the veneers are already so thin I try not to go too crazy sanding.

> It'll work even better if you use a microfiber cloth between coats,
> instead of the shop vac. Vacuum cleaners work very well for sawdust,
> but they really aren't very good at picking up the very fine dust left
> by sanding with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper.

If I was working on an heirloom piece of furniture, that level of detail
might make sense. But, I'm usually building cabinets or other utility
furniture that doesn't have to be perfect. For my needs, the shop vac and
brush attachment work great. The brush loosens up any stubborn dust, and I
have a fine filter bag in the vac to prevent the dust from being blown back
into the air.

Anthony

On 6/27/2012 8:41 PM, Richard wrote:
> On 6/27/2012 4:30 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 6/27/2012 2:29 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> Doug Miller wrote:
>>>
>>>> Don't worry about it, Bill. Dust is inevitable. You can't prevent it.
>>>> Instead, you cope with it.
>>>>
>>>> Here's how:
>>>>
>>>> Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding,
>>>> planing, scraping, or
>>>> whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber cloth to remove dust
>>>> from the surface. Then
>>>> apply your first coat of wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand
>>>> the surface with 400-grit
>>>> sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber cloth, and apply another
>>>> coat. Repeat. Repeat
>>>> again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once more, using either 600-
>>>> or 800-grit. When dry,
>>>> sand with 1000-grit or finer (available at nearly any auto parts
>>>> store), and wipe with the
>>>> microfiber cloth. You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.
>>>
>>> Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
>>> cloth. I've got a tack rag too. I was going to rub with a rag with
>>> denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the first
>>> coat.
>>>
>>> While we're on this topic, the state of my knowledge is that 320, say,
>>> Aluminum Oxide sand paper (designed for wood) is similarly abrasive to
>>> 320 grit Silicon Carbide ("wet or dry"), except the later is designed
>>> for metal. I know the Aluminum Oxide breaks down as you use it, helping
>>> to keep the paper free of dust. I might guess I might actually want to
>>> use water, if I was following the procedure Doug outlined, just to keep
>>> the paper usable. Do I need to correct any of this?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Bill
>>>
>>
>> A follow up to my gel varnish suggestion....
>>
>> I just came in from the shop. I applied Old Masters Gel Varnish to the
>> top, bottom, and front edge of 16 shelves and to the fronts of 6 cabinet
>> backs,approximately 14"x75"
>>
>> After applying the varnish to one side I immediately flipped them over
>> on the fresh surface to do the other side, one at a time. When finished
>> with each I picked them up with no worry of dust or prints and stood
>> them on end with a fan blowing on them.
>>
>> That took about 2.5 hours.
>>
>> I know you already have your varnish but go buy a can of Old Masters and
>> skip all the preparation that goes with liquid varnishes. BTY no
>> scuffing between coats either.
>>
>> Use sparingly, I used 1/2 quart. Subsequent coats will take much less.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> I have been varnishing the interior woodwork on my sailboat and only
> have a single wall and some trim left to do. But no varnish left.
>
> I think I'll give your Old MAsters Gel a try See what that's like.

It is an interior finish so if you think it is going to be exposed to
water don't use it. Be sure and wipe it down 2 times with separate
wiping cloths after applying varnish. Basically wipe it down smooth
immediately and apply several coats.

On 6/27/2012 10:48 PM, Father Haskell wrote:
> On Jun 27, 8:26 pm, "Mike Marlow"<[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>> This varnish, NOT the one preciously posted.
>>
>>> This one
>>> GEL VARNISH
>>
>>> http://www.myoldmasters.com/products-intclear-oilbased-gelpoly.htm
>>
>> Still impressed by the drying times you're getting.
>
> Shellac is 5 seconds dry time if you apply it by French
> polish technique. To be expected, since each coat
> is well under a thousandth of an inch thick -- or at least
> seems that thin.
>

With the gel varnish you dont even wait 5 seconds before you flip it and
put the fresh varnish side down on the work bench.

Leon wrote:

>
> I just came in from the shop. I applied Old Masters Gel Varnish to
> the top, bottom, and front edge of 16 shelves and to the fronts of 6
> cabinet backs,approximately 14"x75"
>
> After applying the varnish to one side I immediately flipped them over
> on the fresh surface to do the other side, one at a time. When
> finished with each I picked them up with no worry of dust or prints
> and stood them on end with a fan blowing on them.
>
> That took about 2.5 hours.
>
> I know you already have your varnish but go buy a can of Old Masters
> and skip all the preparation that goes with liquid varnishes. BTY no
> scuffing between coats either.
>
> Use sparingly, I used 1/2 quart. Subsequent coats will take much
> less.

Ok - you peaked my interest! What is this miracle varnish? No dry time
before flipping them over? I'm liking the sounds of that. Hard to believe,
but I'm game - tell me more.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On Jun 26, 5:57=A0pm, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
> small project. =A0This is my first time around on this.

Thin coats, let soak in for 10 minutes or so and wipe
back until almost dry. You'll need more coats, but the
few dust specks that manage to stick can be cut back
easily with 400 - 600 wet dry or wool.

Bill wrote:

> I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
> small project. This is my first time around on this.
>

Why?

> The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible
> candidate. How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box,
> lying on it's side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate! :
> )

You are more than desperate. You are bordering on absurd. Just take the
thing out into your garage and finish it. Do we really need to turn this
into another round of Bill's questions?


> BTW, my project is a 12" honing strop including a handle, in Hard
> Maple, and it's the first project off of my new workbench. It's a
> good learning opportunity and I would like it to make a good
> impression on my woodcarving friends (at least one of which I'm
> trying to "sell" on woodworking). Considering what the piece looks
> like now, about 3 hours after I cut it off of my bandsaw (with wavy
> cuts), I feel fortunate (or lucky) that it has come out as well as it
> did! That was the first time I used my bandsaw on a project too.
>

Well - good for you in getting that bandsaw into use! I bet it felt good
for you, and it should.

>
> P.S. While I'm writing, please allow me to ask another question.
> Should any finish of any sort be applied to my newly made workbench
> (I'm reminded of Scotch-Guard that people apply to their furniture)? I'm
> tempted to just use it as-is, but my sister asked me to send her a
> picture after I painted it! Ha!

Have you even read the Scotch-Guard can to see what it is intended to be
used on?

>
> P.S.S Does anyone else think Tommy Mac (on his TV show) gets his
> fingers too close to his table saw blade? I don't even have a table
> saw and I wouldn't be as cavalier! : )
>

If you think his fingers are too close, then just keep yours further away.
Not so difficult.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Any reasonably clean area it good enough for finishing your project.
If you do think there may be a dust issue, like the wind blowing dust
onto the area, use the garden hose, on fine mist setting, and spray a
small area to keep the dust down and from drifting near the work area.

Sonny

Doug Miller wrote:
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:3459$4feb74bd [email protected]:
>
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
>>> cloth. I've got a tack rag too. I was going to rub with a rag with
>>> denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the
>>> first coat.
>>
>> No - Tee shirt material is not micro fiber. But... it works very
>> well. Before micro fiber became the rage of the age, it's what we
>> used. Works just fine. Frankly - I don't think micro fiber works
>> any better - it's just the rage of the age.
>
> Oh, yes, it does. Try the experiment I suggested to Bill: wipe a
> freshly-sanded workpiece with a tee-shirt, as many times as you want.
> Then wipe it again with a microfiber cloth, and see how much sawdust
> the tee-shirt missed.

I will try that. I do use micro fiber but I use it to wipe finishes off to
a really nice shine - whether they are wood or metal finishes. I had never
really noticed any real difference in dust pickup, but then again I was
never really looking at that.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On 6/27/2012 4:52 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>>
>> I just came in from the shop. I applied Old Masters Gel Varnish to
>> the top, bottom, and front edge of 16 shelves and to the fronts of 6
>> cabinet backs,approximately 14"x75"
>>
>> After applying the varnish to one side I immediately flipped them over
>> on the fresh surface to do the other side, one at a time. When
>> finished with each I picked them up with no worry of dust or prints
>> and stood them on end with a fan blowing on them.
>>
>> That took about 2.5 hours.
>>
>> I know you already have your varnish but go buy a can of Old Masters
>> and skip all the preparation that goes with liquid varnishes. BTY no
>> scuffing between coats either.
>>
>> Use sparingly, I used 1/2 quart. Subsequent coats will take much
>> less.
>
> Ok - you peaked my interest! What is this miracle varnish? No dry time
> before flipping them over? I'm liking the sounds of that. Hard to believe,
> but I'm game - tell me more.
>

Ok here is the link and the instructions, the way I do it. I use a blue
"Scotts" shop paper towel cut in half and folded to make an applicator
about 1"x2" I apply the gel varnish liberally but not so much that I
have lumps of excess on the surface. Do only about a 1~1.5 square foot
area and immediately wipe smooth with a t-shirt material rag, about 18"
square. Precede to finish the surface in the same 1-1.5 square feet at
a time. If your first wipe down rag gets saturated relatively early you
are applying too much varnish. Put down too little varnish and it
becomes a tedious task. You will get the hang of it.

When finished with that surface, "wipe it down a second time" with
"another clean t-shirt rag of similar size. Use the first for initial
wipe down use the second for second wipe down. Eventually the first
will get pretty saturated. The second will remain relatively clean.

Flip the piece over and do the other side. No worries about the freshly
varnished surface. Repeat about 4 hours later 2~3 times.

NOTE! Be absolutely certain you do not skip the step of the second wipe
down when the panel is completely covered and wiped down the first time
of it could take 2~3 days to dry. DAMHIKT! It took me until my 3rd
quart to realize how that works. ;~)

Dust is not a problem and subsequent coats go on with out prep.


http://www.myoldmasters.com/products-intclear-oilbasedpoly.htm

Expensive, about $23 per quart but if your time is valuable and you want
a "satin" finish that is consistent and smooth as a baby's butt you
might find it money well spent. I buy it locally from a paint company a
case at a time for $16 per quart. I have been using gel varnishes
almost exclusively for about 23 years and this stuff is the best so far.

On Jun 27, 8:26=A0pm, "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Leon wrote:
> > This varnish, NOT the one preciously posted.
>
> > This one
> > GEL VARNISH
>
> >http://www.myoldmasters.com/products-intclear-oilbased-gelpoly.htm
>
> Still impressed by the drying times you're getting.

Shellac is 5 seconds dry time if you apply it by French
polish technique. To be expected, since each coat
is well under a thousandth of an inch thick -- or at least
seems that thin.

On 6/26/2012 5:57 PM, Bill wrote:
>
> I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
> small project. This is my first time around on this.
>
> The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible
> candidate. How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box,
> lying on it's side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate! : )
>
> BTW, my project is a 12" honing strop including a handle, in Hard Maple,
> and it's the first project off of my new workbench. It's a good learning
> opportunity and I would like it to make a good impression on my
> woodcarving friends (at least one of which I'm trying to "sell" on
> woodworking). Considering what the piece looks like now, about 3 hours
> after I cut it off of my bandsaw (with wavy cuts), I feel fortunate (or
> lucky) that it has come out as well as it did! That was the first time I
> used my bandsaw on a project too.
>
>
> P.S. While I'm writing, please allow me to ask another question. Should
> any finish of any sort be applied to my newly made workbench (I'm
> reminded of Scotch-Guard that people apply to their furniture)? I'm
> tempted to just use it as-is, but my sister asked me to send her a
> picture after I painted it! Ha!
>
> P.S.S Does anyone else think Tommy Mac (on his TV show) gets his
> fingers too close to his table saw blade? I don't even have a table saw
> and I wouldn't be as cavalier! : )
>
> Cheers,
> Bill
>

I can not comment on most of your question, but I have an opinion on the
workbench.

About 15 years ago I built a work bench out of White wood 2X4 and
plywood. The 2X4 joints are all half lapped, and the plywood top is
rabbeted into the 2X4 that create the perimeter of the top.

I varnish the whole thing, and I am completely satisfied with the
results. Today after all of these years the workbench looks nearly as
good as it did when I finished it. If build an new one or refinish this
one I word go the varnish route

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>> I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
>> small project. This is my first time around on this.
>>
>
> Why?


When I was reading about applying a polyurethane finish, there was
a great deal of concern about dust (specks), etc. I just wanted to
try to get it right. It's not like I didn't do some homework on
finishing with polyurethane before posting. If I had, I might have
ended up with the gel Leon suggested instead of Minwax "wipe on" poly
product. I haven't investigated the gel, but I do suspect that what I
bought will give me a suitable finish.

Does that answer your question?

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
While I'm writing, please allow me to ask another question.
>> Should any finish of any sort be applied to my newly made workbench
>> (I'm reminded of Scotch-Guard that people apply to their furniture)? I'm
>> tempted to just use it as-is, but my sister asked me to send her a
>> picture after I painted it! Ha!
>
> Have you even read the Scotch-Guard can to see what it is intended to be
> used on?

You took my analogy too literally. Relax a little.

>
>>
>> P.S.S Does anyone else think Tommy Mac (on his TV show) gets his
>> fingers too close to his table saw blade? I don't even have a table
>> saw and I wouldn't be as cavalier! : )
>>
>
> If you think his fingers are too close, then just keep yours further away.
> Not so difficult.

Gosh.

Mike Marlow wrote:

> Do we really need to turn this
> into another round of Bill's questions?

At least they were on topic. You're the one that is making this personal.

J. Clarke wrote:

> Nothing magic about wipe-on poly that has special requirements. Just
> vacuum off a surface and set your project down on it and go to town.
>

Thank you very much. I printed off a procedure that is a little more
complicated (for instance, including sanding with 320 grit or steel wool
after the 2nd coat), but your confidence makes me optimistic!
I bought a tack rag anyway!

Actually, when I first started reading about the poly application--it
made me consider dispensing with the whole idea of finishing it at all,
but then I realized that doing that would be compromising both my
project and myself (my opportunity to get a useful finishing experience).

Cheers,
Bill

Gramp's shop wrote:

> Take a look at Dr Deb's post on her new workbench. You can't do better
> than that.
>


Yes, I found Dr. Deb's post and realized it was the one that triggered
me into thinking I should provide some finish. Thanks!

Bill

Gramp's shop wrote:

> Take a look at Dr Deb's post on her new workbench. You can't do better
> than that.
>

Yep, beautiful work!

Puckdropper wrote:

> The nice thing about shop furniture is that it doesn't need a finish. The
> other nice thing is that you won't enjoy it less if the finish is done
> poorly.
>
> *snip*

Yes, I weighed the pros and cons of finishing the bench after reading
about BLO and decided to just leave well enough alone for the time
being. It's not like I have some fine hardwood I wish to highlight.

Concerning the small project I am going to finish: This IS some drywall
dust in my shop, since some things are "under construction". I guess I
just got a little paranoid after reading the writings of people who were
uptight about the whole process (I too have gotten dust in my varnish
before, under better conditions than I have now). Having had a few more
hours to think about it however, my process will be better--I will tape
up the parts I don't want to get finish on and use duck tape to bound my
piece to a short length of EMT, or whatever else is handy. I'd pound
that EMT into the ground like a stake but we have a lot of low flying
birds in the area--and/or someone might tell me that doing so violates
the NEC! ; )

I learned plenty about finishes today. But, I left some for another day.

Cheers,
Bill

Doug Miller wrote:

> Don't worry about it, Bill. Dust is inevitable. You can't prevent it. Instead, you cope with it.
>
> Here's how:
>
> Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding, planing, scraping, or
> whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber cloth to remove dust from the surface. Then
> apply your first coat of wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand the surface with 400-grit
> sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber cloth, and apply another coat. Repeat. Repeat
> again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once more, using either 600- or 800-grit. When dry,
> sand with 1000-grit or finer (available at nearly any auto parts store), and wipe with the
> microfiber cloth. You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.

Thanks Doug. I assume that T-shirt material qualify as "microfiber"
cloth. I've got a tack rag too. I was going to rub with a rag with
denatured alcohol to clean out the pores of the wood before the first coat.

While we're on this topic, the state of my knowledge is that 320, say,
Aluminum Oxide sand paper (designed for wood) is similarly abrasive to
320 grit Silicon Carbide ("wet or dry"), except the later is designed
for metal. I know the Aluminum Oxide breaks down as you use it, helping
to keep the paper free of dust. I might guess I might actually want to
use water, if I was following the procedure Doug outlined, just to keep
the paper usable. Do I need to correct any of this?

Thanks,
Bill

Mike Marlow wrote:
> Doug Miller wrote:

>> Don't worry about it, Bill. Dust is inevitable. You can't prevent it.
>> Instead, you cope with it.
>>
>> Here's how:
>>
>> Once you have the project smooth enough to finish (by sanding,
>> planing, scraping, or
>> whatever), wipe it down with a dry microfiber cloth to remove dust
>> from the surface. Then
>> apply your first coat of wipe-on poly. Wait for it to dry, then sand
>> the surface with 400-grit sandpaper. Wipe again with the microfiber
>> cloth, and apply another coat. Repeat. Repeat
>> again, using 600-grit this time. Repeat once more, using either 600-
>> or 800-grit. When dry, sand with 1000-grit or finer (available at
>> nearly any auto parts store), and wipe with the microfiber cloth.
>> You're done, and the surface will feel like glass.
>
> And... if you want a high gloss shine, just rub it down with buffing
> compound after the 1000 grit. It's available at auto parts stores as well.
> It will take some elbow grease to get 1000 grit scratches out with buffing
> compound, but it's a labor of love. You can get a small buffing wheel that
> will chuck into your cordless drill that will make that work much easier.
> Just be very careful around edges when using a buffing wheel. You don't
> want to burn through your finish. Hit the edges by hand. You can use an
> old Tee shirt or terry cloth towels for the hand buffing.
>
> Doug is right - you can turn out a glass like finish this way - if that's
> what you are after.

Thank you for sharing. I don't need "$1000 finish" this time, but it's
nice to know how to get one!

Bill

On 6/28/2012 8:16 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 6/28/2012 6:09 PM, HerHusband wrote:
>
> Really and truly the fine dust in the air is not going to make a bit of
> difference 99.999999% of the time. The air is naturally full of dust. In 30
> years I have never had a problem with blowing the dust and it settling back
> down and causing more of a problem than normal dusting doing the same.

What he said.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Bill wrote:
> I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
> small project. This is my first time around on this.
>
> The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible
> candidate. How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box,
> lying on it's side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate! :
> )

Hint from the auto painters: The environment in which the painting takes
place works best if it can be watered down. That is, the floor (bottom)
should be wet. The dust sticks to the wet floor (bottom of your container)
instead of the object you're painting.

On 6/26/2012 4:57 PM, Bill wrote:
>
> I am scrambling for a location to apply (wipe on) poly to my
> small project. This is my first time around on this.
>
> The bench or shop where I made the project is surely a terrible
> candidate. How about a freshly lined gargage can or cardboard box,
> lying on it's side, with a stand inside? Obviously, I'm desperate! : )
>
> BTW, my project is a 12" honing strop including a handle, in Hard Maple,
> and it's the first project off of my new workbench. It's a good learning
> opportunity and I would like it to make a good impression on my
> woodcarving friends (at least one of which I'm trying to "sell" on
> woodworking). Considering what the piece looks like now, about 3 hours
> after I cut it off of my bandsaw (with wavy cuts), I feel fortunate (or
> lucky) that it has come out as well as it did! That was the first time I
> used my bandsaw on a project too.
>
>
> P.S. While I'm writing, please allow me to ask another question. Should
> any finish of any sort be applied to my newly made workbench (I'm
> reminded of Scotch-Guard that people apply to their furniture)? I'm
> tempted to just use it as-is, but my sister asked me to send her a
> picture after I painted it! Ha!
>
> P.S.S Does anyone else think Tommy Mac (on his TV show) gets his
> fingers too close to his table saw blade? I don't even have a table saw
> and I wouldn't be as cavalier! : )
>
> Cheers,
> Bill
>
Take a look at Dr Deb's post on her new workbench. You can't do better
than that.

On 6/28/2012 11:11 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>>
>> I use my Festool sanders and Festool dust extractor, not dust to
>> remove! ;~)
>>
>
> Oh hell - I use my air hose. Works like a top! It's just not painted
> green...
>

I did that for years but if the sander is capturing all the dust to
start with, no dust top blow.