This comes up here once in a while, so I thought I would share my
experience. Yesterday, Unisaw is working fine, then suddenly it will only
hummmm and not start. Hmm, checked the breaker, voltage level, low voltage
controls, etc. Nope, no joy, must remove motor.
These suckers are heavy and not easy to get close up and personal with.
Anyway, got it out on the floor. Tried it again, no spinnie, just hmmmmm.
So I take the bugger apart. Disconnect the wiring from the saw and get it
up on a bench. Damn, how can so much dust get inside what appears to be a
well sealed motor? What part of T-otally E-nclosed F-an C-ooled don't they
understand? The junction box and the capacitor housings were completely
full of fine dust.
The secret fix is inside the bell end of the motor. Took the bell off, took
the fan off the shaft, take the tie rods out of the motor, mark the ends so
we can get the alignment back correctly, then knocked the end cap off. The
centrifugal switch area was completely filled with dust. Clearly the part
that slides on the shaft was being held away from the switch contacts and
holding the start capacitor connection open.
Blow that area and the whole motor out with compressed air. It looked like
an Iraqi sand storm in my shop. Put it back together in reverse order and
it works perfectly. Very straightforward to do, and any woodworker should
be able to handle it.
Check the V-belts while you got it out. Easy to change them now if needed.
Lifting the motor back in place is the hardest part of the whole job. Hang
the motor with the sheave on the belts, then get SWMBO to push the pin in
place while you hold the motor. You will enjoy this part cause you will
need to snuggle up real close to get both of your bodies close enough.
This is the kind of thing that will always happen in the middle of a big
project, but don't panic, if you are lucky it will be something this simple
to fix.
--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com
On Mon, 09 May 2005 21:38:37 -0400, DIYGUY <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Lee Michaels wrote:
>>
>> I just wanted to comment on the Iraqi sand storm reference. I have talked to
>> several mechanical types who got back from Iraq. You just described a very
>> familiar problem and fix for these guys.
>>
>I wonder what they are doing with their Unisaws?? Hopefully, they are
>enjoying some r 'n r ...
"Divide and conquer"?
Lee
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >
> > Blow that area and the whole motor out with compressed air.
>
> <snip>
>
> Would it be safe to assume that blowing out that motor about once a
> quarter is going to be part of your amended PM program?
>
> Lew
>
One would think so, but alas, probably not. In any case, I bought the saw
used from a contractor about 3-4 years ago. He bought it new in the
mid-80's (it's a Rockwell) and I'm sure he never opened it up. He also did
not use a dust collector, although it shows evidence of a shop vac having
been used at one time. I'm thinking 20 years between cleanings is about
right :-)
--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com
"mike hide" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> thanks for sharing your experiences my unisaw started acting up today
[right
> in the middle of a project] .I might do the deed tomorrow. I take it you
did
> not mess with the brushes ,my machine is probably about 30 - 40 years
> old.....mjh
>
>
Like Lew already noted, no brushes. I have no idea what motors
Rockwell/Delta uses over the years (where's the Duke?), but just for the
sake of freedom of information, my motor is a 3HP, capacitor start,
induction motor, labeled in big letters Rockwell and in small print on the
corner Baldor. It weighs about eleventy hunerd pounds. Vintage is about
1985.
In retrospect I'm sure it could be done without removing the motor from the
saw. Just take the weight off the belts so you don't bind the shaft. If I
knew all it needed was blowing out, that is probably what I would do.
Taking it all the way out lets you give the whole thing a good inspection.
In particular, check the bearings.
--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com
Lee Michaels wrote:
> "Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>This comes up here once in a while, so I thought I would share my
>>experience. Yesterday, Unisaw is working fine, then suddenly it will only
>>hummmm and not start. Hmm, checked the breaker, voltage level, low
>>voltage
>>controls, etc. Nope, no joy, must remove motor.
>>
>>These suckers are heavy and not easy to get close up and personal with.
>>
>>Anyway, got it out on the floor. Tried it again, no spinnie, just hmmmmm.
>>
>>So I take the bugger apart. Disconnect the wiring from the saw and get it
>>up on a bench. Damn, how can so much dust get inside what appears to be a
>>well sealed motor? What part of T-otally E-nclosed F-an C-ooled don't
>>they
>>understand? The junction box and the capacitor housings were completely
>>full of fine dust.
>>
>>The secret fix is inside the bell end of the motor. Took the bell off,
>>took
>>the fan off the shaft, take the tie rods out of the motor, mark the ends
>>so
>>we can get the alignment back correctly, then knocked the end cap off.
>>The
>>centrifugal switch area was completely filled with dust. Clearly the part
>>that slides on the shaft was being held away from the switch contacts and
>>holding the start capacitor connection open.
>>
>>Blow that area and the whole motor out with compressed air. It looked
>>like
>>an Iraqi sand storm in my shop. Put it back together in reverse order and
>>it works perfectly. Very straightforward to do, and any woodworker should
>>be able to handle it.
>>
>>Check the V-belts while you got it out. Easy to change them now if
>>needed.
>>Lifting the motor back in place is the hardest part of the whole job.
>>Hang
>>the motor with the sheave on the belts, then get SWMBO to push the pin in
>>place while you hold the motor. You will enjoy this part cause you will
>>need to snuggle up real close to get both of your bodies close enough.
>>
>>This is the kind of thing that will always happen in the middle of a big
>>project, but don't panic, if you are lucky it will be something this
>>simple
>>to fix.
>>
>
> Good goin' Bill.
>
> I just wanted to comment on the Iraqi sand storm reference. I have talked to
> several mechanical types who got back from Iraq. You just described a very
> familiar problem and fix for these guys.
>
> Does this mean you would be a good soldier? ;)
>
>
>
I wonder what they are doing with their Unisaws?? Hopefully, they are
enjoying some r 'n r ...
"Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> This comes up here once in a while, so I thought I would share my
> experience. Yesterday, Unisaw is working fine, then suddenly it will only
> hummmm and not start. Hmm, checked the breaker, voltage level, low
> voltage
> controls, etc. Nope, no joy, must remove motor.
>
> These suckers are heavy and not easy to get close up and personal with.
>
> Anyway, got it out on the floor. Tried it again, no spinnie, just hmmmmm.
>
> So I take the bugger apart. Disconnect the wiring from the saw and get it
> up on a bench. Damn, how can so much dust get inside what appears to be a
> well sealed motor? What part of T-otally E-nclosed F-an C-ooled don't
> they
> understand? The junction box and the capacitor housings were completely
> full of fine dust.
>
> The secret fix is inside the bell end of the motor. Took the bell off,
> took
> the fan off the shaft, take the tie rods out of the motor, mark the ends
> so
> we can get the alignment back correctly, then knocked the end cap off.
> The
> centrifugal switch area was completely filled with dust. Clearly the part
> that slides on the shaft was being held away from the switch contacts and
> holding the start capacitor connection open.
>
> Blow that area and the whole motor out with compressed air. It looked
> like
> an Iraqi sand storm in my shop. Put it back together in reverse order and
> it works perfectly. Very straightforward to do, and any woodworker should
> be able to handle it.
>
> Check the V-belts while you got it out. Easy to change them now if
> needed.
> Lifting the motor back in place is the hardest part of the whole job.
> Hang
> the motor with the sheave on the belts, then get SWMBO to push the pin in
> place while you hold the motor. You will enjoy this part cause you will
> need to snuggle up real close to get both of your bodies close enough.
>
> This is the kind of thing that will always happen in the middle of a big
> project, but don't panic, if you are lucky it will be something this
> simple
> to fix.
>
Good goin' Bill.
I just wanted to comment on the Iraqi sand storm reference. I have talked to
several mechanical types who got back from Iraq. You just described a very
familiar problem and fix for these guys.
Does this mean you would be a good soldier? ;)
Thanks for the heads up Lew
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> mike hide wrote:
> > thanks for sharing your experiences my unisaw started acting up today
[right
> > in the middle of a project] .I might do the deed tomorrow. I take it you
did
> > not mess with the brushes ,my machine is probably about 30 - 40 years
> > old.....mjh
> >
> >
>
> There should be no brushes in that machine.
>
> You will find brushes in DC machines and so called universal machines
> rated for AC/DC service.
>
> Universal machines are typically fractional HP and DC machines are
> normally found in variable speed applications.
>
>
>
> Lew
mike hide wrote:
> thanks for sharing your experiences my unisaw started acting up today [right
> in the middle of a project] .I might do the deed tomorrow. I take it you did
> not mess with the brushes ,my machine is probably about 30 - 40 years
> old.....mjh
>
>
There should be no brushes in that machine.
You will find brushes in DC machines and so called universal machines
rated for AC/DC service.
Universal machines are typically fractional HP and DC machines are
normally found in variable speed applications.
Lew
"Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> The secret fix is inside the bell end of the motor. Took the bell off,
took
> the fan off the shaft, take the tie rods out of the motor, mark the ends
so
> we can get the alignment back correctly, then knocked the end cap off.
The
> centrifugal switch area was completely filled with dust. Clearly the part
> that slides on the shaft was being held away from the switch contacts and
> holding the start capacitor connection open.
Too bad you didn't take a few pictures to document your fix. Not that what
you've described is difficult to follow, just that some people might be a
little bit more courageous in making the attempt if they have some pictures
to follow.
> the motor with the sheave on the belts, then get SWMBO to push the pin in
> place while you hold the motor. You will enjoy this part cause you will
> need to snuggle up real close to get both of your bodies close enough.
Any excuse for a snuggle eh? :)
Pounds on Wood wrote:
<snip>
> The secret fix is inside the bell end of the motor. Took the bell off, took
> the fan off the shaft, take the tie rods out of the motor, mark the ends so
> we can get the alignment back correctly, then knocked the end cap off. The
> centrifugal switch area was completely filled with dust. Clearly the part
> that slides on the shaft was being held away from the switch contacts and
> holding the start capacitor connection open.
>
> Blow that area and the whole motor out with compressed air.
<snip>
Would it be safe to assume that blowing out that motor about once a
quarter is going to be part of your amended PM program?
Lew
It's not likely, but a fire "could" be started as the dust builds up and
causes excess sparkiing of the switch.
Wilson
"Pounds on Wood" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> This comes up here once in a while, so I thought I would share my
> experience. Yesterday, Unisaw is working fine, then suddenly it will only
> hummmm and not start. Hmm, checked the breaker, voltage level, low
> voltage
> controls, etc. Nope, no joy, must remove motor.
>
> These suckers are heavy and not easy to get close up and personal with.
>
> Anyway, got it out on the floor. Tried it again, no spinnie, just hmmmmm.
>
> So I take the bugger apart. Disconnect the wiring from the saw and get it
> up on a bench. Damn, how can so much dust get inside what appears to be a
> well sealed motor? What part of T-otally E-nclosed F-an C-ooled don't
> they
> understand? The junction box and the capacitor housings were completely
> full of fine dust.
>
> The secret fix is inside the bell end of the motor. Took the bell off,
> took
> the fan off the shaft, take the tie rods out of the motor, mark the ends
> so
> we can get the alignment back correctly, then knocked the end cap off.
> The
> centrifugal switch area was completely filled with dust. Clearly the part
> that slides on the shaft was being held away from the switch contacts and
> holding the start capacitor connection open.
>
> Blow that area and the whole motor out with compressed air. It looked
> like
> an Iraqi sand storm in my shop. Put it back together in reverse order and
> it works perfectly. Very straightforward to do, and any woodworker should
> be able to handle it.
>
> Check the V-belts while you got it out. Easy to change them now if
> needed.
> Lifting the motor back in place is the hardest part of the whole job.
> Hang
> the motor with the sheave on the belts, then get SWMBO to push the pin in
> place while you hold the motor. You will enjoy this part cause you will
> need to snuggle up real close to get both of your bodies close enough.
>
> This is the kind of thing that will always happen in the middle of a big
> project, but don't panic, if you are lucky it will be something this
> simple
> to fix.
>
> --
> ********
> Bill Pounds
> http://www.billpounds.com
>
>
>