I am making a jewerly box out of honey locust. Inside the box are
(what seems like) miles of small dividers that are going to be joined
in a half-lap design. I have bandsawed these dividers to about 12 x 1
x 1/8 " (about the size of the old rulers you had at school). I don't
want to run them through the planer to get all the bandsaw lines out
because I've had a few planer explosions in the past with stuff under
1/8, and don't want to risk that.
Sanding them with the palm sander is my only power option, and is a
major PITA because I don't have an easy way to secure them other than
holding them in my hands. At the end of working on them, my hands feel
like they have fallen asleep they are tingling so much. Would a
sanding mat help here?
Tue, Nov 16, 2004, 5:44am (EST-3) [email protected]
(todd=A0the=A0wood=A0junkie) says:
I am making a jewerly box <snip>
The blade in my bandsaw isn't top quality. But, it does make a
pretty smooth cut, definitely smooth enough I wouldn't need to run wood
thru my planer to get the blade marks out. If it was me, I'd probably
just make a sanding block, hold one end of a strip down, make a few
passes with the sanding block, then switch ends. Or, make something
like a shooting board, so I could use a sender.
JOAT
Any plan is bad which is incapable of modification.
- Publilius Syrus
Hand plane. Put the pieces down on some double stick and take a pass with a
nice smoother.
"todd the wood junkie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am making a jewerly box out of honey locust. Inside the box are
> (what seems like) miles of small dividers that are going to be joined
> in a half-lap design. I have bandsawed these dividers to about 12 x 1
> x 1/8 " (about the size of the old rulers you had at school). I don't
> want to run them through the planer to get all the bandsaw lines out
> because I've had a few planer explosions in the past with stuff under
> 1/8, and don't want to risk that.
>
> Sanding them with the palm sander is my only power option, and is a
> major PITA because I don't have an easy way to secure them other than
> holding them in my hands. At the end of working on them, my hands feel
> like they have fallen asleep they are tingling so much. Would a
> sanding mat help here?
Almost forgot until I responded to the thread on Oscillating Spindle
Sanders. I fence and thickness sand on mine - JET. But that would take
some really bad bandsaw marks to get me away from the plane.
To the OP - have you considered a v-groove bit
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_sign.html#V-Groove_Anchor
to groove the long members and double chamfer on the shots' ends to
wedge/glue? Did that with some kids in class a few years back, and it
worked great.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 16 Nov 2004 05:44:00 -0800, [email protected] (todd the wood
> junkie) wrote:
>
> >I am making a jewerly box out of honey locust. Inside the box are
> >(what seems like) miles of small dividers that are going to be joined
> >in a half-lap design. I have bandsawed these dividers to about 12 x 1
> >x 1/8 " (about the size of the old rulers you had at school). I don't
> >want to run them through the planer to get all the bandsaw lines out
> >because I've had a few planer explosions in the past with stuff under
> >1/8, and don't want to risk that.
> >
> >Sanding them with the palm sander is my only power option, and is a
> >major PITA because I don't have an easy way to secure them other than
> >holding them in my hands. At the end of working on them, my hands feel
> >like they have fallen asleep they are tingling so much. Would a
> >sanding mat help here?
>
>
> sanding mats work best with large flat pieces- the ones that don't
> really need them in the first place. small thin parts just seem to
> squish the mat up around the edges so that the sander pad hits the mat
> and snags. but then I have a ROS rather than a OS and I'm a cheapskate
> and try to use carpet padding and no-slip shelf paper for sanding
> mats.
>
> fine woodworking recently ran in the tips section a tip about
> thickness planing by hand, involving essentially a shooting board.
> looks like it'd do a real nice job for you.
Greetings and Salutations....
On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 16:49:14 GMT, mac davis <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 16 Nov 2004 05:44:00 -0800, [email protected] (todd the wood
>junkie) wrote:
>
>>I am making a jewerly box out of honey locust. Inside the box are
>>(what seems like) miles of small dividers that are going to be joined
>>in a half-lap design. I have bandsawed these dividers to about 12 x 1
>>x 1/8 " (about the size of the old rulers you had at school). I don't
>>want to run them through the planer to get all the bandsaw lines out
>>because I've had a few planer explosions in the past with stuff under
>>1/8, and don't want to risk that.
>>
>>Sanding them with the palm sander is my only power option, and is a
>>major PITA because I don't have an easy way to secure them other than
>>holding them in my hands. At the end of working on them, my hands feel
>>like they have fallen asleep they are tingling so much. Would a
>>sanding mat help here?
>
>I have one of those sanding mats, made from the stuff sears sells for
>lining tool box bottoms... it's like the shelf lining material
>mentioned, but heavier with a larger "weave"..
>Things stick to it pretty well and dust goes through it well..
>
>If all else fails, use double-sided REMOVEABLE squares or tape to hold
>the pieces to the bench or a chunk of sheet material..
Sounds like the perfect opportunity to invoke that old rule of
"Any new project requires a new tool". A nice drum sander would
be a fun addition, I think.
However, since that is, I suspect, not very likely, how
about this technique that I have used a number of times with
good success (YMMV):
1) Clamp your belt sander sideways on the bench.
2) Build a small jig that goes up against the belt,
and has a small slot to hold the pieces to be sanded.
3) Put on hearing and eye protection, fire up the
dust collection (even a shop-vac will work well for this)
and feed the pieces through the mechanism. I would recommend
about a 200 grit belt...the finer the better, actually.
If you feed them in through the jig in the same
direction as belt travel, they WILL self-feed...I have done
it that way myself. Alternatively, feeding against belt
travel works well, too...but can be more work.
Note that there IS some hazard that you will shorten
a finger with this, but, common sense, push sticks and light
pressures usually minimize that problem.
Alternatively, if you have one of these large belt
sanders (6x48 or something like that), you can do much the same thing
by simply clamping a bar across the belt at the appropriate height
for the thickness of the divider and feeding them through.
Finally...a Scary Sharp block plane will work GREAT for
smoothing these things down. Just lay them on a good flat surface
(workbench, sheet of plywood on top of your table saw, etc) and take
light cuts.
Hum...those are all the techniques I have used in the past
that come to mind...hope ONE of them helps.
And remember...there IS always that rule ("new project...New
Tool"). *smile*.
Regards
Dave Mundt
On 16 Nov 2004 05:44:00 -0800, [email protected] (todd the wood
junkie) wrote:
>I am making a jewerly box out of honey locust. Inside the box are
>(what seems like) miles of small dividers that are going to be joined
>in a half-lap design. I have bandsawed these dividers to about 12 x 1
>x 1/8 " (about the size of the old rulers you had at school). I don't
>want to run them through the planer to get all the bandsaw lines out
>because I've had a few planer explosions in the past with stuff under
>1/8, and don't want to risk that.
>
>Sanding them with the palm sander is my only power option, and is a
>major PITA because I don't have an easy way to secure them other than
>holding them in my hands. At the end of working on them, my hands feel
>like they have fallen asleep they are tingling so much. Would a
>sanding mat help here?
I have one of those sanding mats, made from the stuff sears sells for
lining tool box bottoms... it's like the shelf lining material
mentioned, but heavier with a larger "weave"..
Things stick to it pretty well and dust goes through it well..
If all else fails, use double-sided REMOVEABLE squares or tape to hold
the pieces to the bench or a chunk of sheet material..
"todd the wood junkie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am making a jewerly box out of honey locust. Inside the box are
> (what seems like) miles of small dividers that are going to be joined
> in a half-lap design. I have bandsawed these dividers to about 12 x 1
> x 1/8 " (about the size of the old rulers you had at school). I don't
> want to run them through the planer to get all the bandsaw lines out
> because I've had a few planer explosions in the past with stuff under
> 1/8, and don't want to risk that.
>
> Sanding them with the palm sander is my only power option, and is a
> major PITA because I don't have an easy way to secure them other than
> holding them in my hands. At the end of working on them, my hands feel
> like they have fallen asleep they are tingling so much. Would a
> sanding mat help here?
One thing you may want to try as a sanding mat is that quasi sticky matting
material you get at RV places. It is used for lining shelves in motorhomes,
trailers etc, so your stuff doesn't slide around. Inexpensive and
disposable if your sander wanders off the edge and chews it up a bit. Never
tried it yet, but will when I build my downdraft sanding table.
Paul
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hand plane. Put the pieces down on some double stick and take a pass with
a
> nice smoother.
I second that suggestion as my choice.
Bob
Line them up side by side to form a pannel. Clam one end of all the "rulers"
down with caul (a board placed scross them at 90 degrees).
Use a palm ROS, then switch the caul to the other end to reach the other
edge.
Flip, repeat.
"todd the wood junkie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am making a jewerly box out of honey locust. Inside the box are
> (what seems like) miles of small dividers that are going to be joined
> in a half-lap design. I have bandsawed these dividers to about 12 x 1
> x 1/8 " (about the size of the old rulers you had at school). I don't
> want to run them through the planer to get all the bandsaw lines out
> because I've had a few planer explosions in the past with stuff under
> 1/8, and don't want to risk that.
>
> Sanding them with the palm sander is my only power option, and is a
> major PITA because I don't have an easy way to secure them other than
> holding them in my hands. At the end of working on them, my hands feel
> like they have fallen asleep they are tingling so much. Would a
> sanding mat help here?
todd the wood junkie wrote:
> I am making a jewerly box out of honey locust. Inside the box are
> (what seems like) miles of small dividers that are going to be joined
> in a half-lap design. I have bandsawed these dividers to about 12 x 1
> x 1/8 " (about the size of the old rulers you had at school). I don't
> want to run them through the planer to get all the bandsaw lines out
> because I've had a few planer explosions in the past with stuff under
> 1/8, and don't want to risk that.
>
> Sanding them with the palm sander is my only power option, and is a
> major PITA because I don't have an easy way to secure them other than
> holding them in my hands. At the end of working on them, my hands feel
> like they have fallen asleep they are tingling so much. Would a
> sanding mat help here?
You need a Gilbert Sanding Disk - this is what a lot of people use to thickness
sand
things to accurate tolerance using a drill press.
Contact Greg Matonis at http://www.gilberttuners.com/, and see a picture of the
thing
under "Special Tools" at http://onlineapprentice.com/
These things are great for working with small parts. See 7th picture down at
http://onlineapprentice.com/G13.html
to get an idea of the scale you can work at comfortably. (These are guitar
bindings. I did a batch myself
this way just this weekend. The disk is lurking at the left of the frame in
the 6th picture.
Jim Kirby
--
James T. Kirby
Center for Applied Coastal Research
University of Delaware
Newark, DE 19716
phone: 302-831-2438
fax: 302-831-1228
email: [email protected]
http://chinacat.coastal.udel.edu/~kirby
"todd the wood junkie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am making a jewerly box out of honey locust. Inside the box are
> (what seems like) miles of small dividers that are going to be joined
> in a half-lap design. I have bandsawed these dividers to about 12 x 1
> x 1/8 " (about the size of the old rulers you had at school). I don't
> want to run them through the planer to get all the bandsaw lines out
> because I've had a few planer explosions in the past with stuff under
> 1/8, and don't want to risk that.
Have you tried running the thin stock through a planer on top of a 3/4"
thick board?
>
> Sanding them with the palm sander is my only power option, and is a
> major PITA because I don't have an easy way to secure them other than
> holding them in my hands. At the end of working on them, my hands feel
> like they have fallen asleep they are tingling so much. Would a
> sanding mat help here?
A router mat will help hold the pieces but I believe that you are going to
round over all the edges sanding this way with a palm sander. Find some
one with a drum sander.
In article <[email protected]>,
todd the wood junkie <[email protected]> wrote:
>I am making a jewerly box out of honey locust. Inside the box are
>(what seems like) miles of small dividers that are going to be joined
>in a half-lap design. I have bandsawed these dividers to about 12 x 1
>x 1/8 " (about the size of the old rulers you had at school). I don't
>want to run them through the planer to get all the bandsaw lines out
>because I've had a few planer explosions in the past with stuff under
>1/8, and don't want to risk that.
>
>Sanding them with the palm sander is my only power option, and is a
>major PITA because I don't have an easy way to secure them other than
>holding them in my hands. At the end of working on them, my hands feel
>like they have fallen asleep they are tingling so much. Would a
>sanding mat help here?
Absolutely. I use a piece of carpet foam and it holds material so
securely that I can use a router on them, not just sand.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
On 16 Nov 2004 05:44:00 -0800, [email protected] (todd the wood
junkie) wrote:
>I am making a jewerly box out of honey locust. Inside the box are
>(what seems like) miles of small dividers that are going to be joined
>in a half-lap design. I have bandsawed these dividers to about 12 x 1
>x 1/8 " (about the size of the old rulers you had at school). I don't
>want to run them through the planer to get all the bandsaw lines out
>because I've had a few planer explosions in the past with stuff under
>1/8, and don't want to risk that.
>
>Sanding them with the palm sander is my only power option, and is a
>major PITA because I don't have an easy way to secure them other than
>holding them in my hands. At the end of working on them, my hands feel
>like they have fallen asleep they are tingling so much. Would a
>sanding mat help here?
sanding mats work best with large flat pieces- the ones that don't
really need them in the first place. small thin parts just seem to
squish the mat up around the edges so that the sander pad hits the mat
and snags. but then I have a ROS rather than a OS and I'm a cheapskate
and try to use carpet padding and no-slip shelf paper for sanding
mats.
fine woodworking recently ran in the tips section a tip about
thickness planing by hand, involving essentially a shooting board.
looks like it'd do a real nice job for you.
On 16 Nov 2004 05:44:00 -0800, [email protected] (todd the wood junkie)
wrote:
>I am making a jewerly box out of honey locust. Inside the box are
>(what seems like) miles of small dividers that are going to be joined
>in a half-lap design. I have bandsawed these dividers to about 12 x 1
>x 1/8 " (about the size of the old rulers you had at school). I don't
>want to run them through the planer to get all the bandsaw lines out
>because I've had a few planer explosions in the past with stuff under
>1/8, and don't want to risk that.
>
>Sanding them with the palm sander is my only power option, and is a
>major PITA because I don't have an easy way to secure them other than
>holding them in my hands. At the end of working on them, my hands feel
>like they have fallen asleep they are tingling so much. Would a
>sanding mat help here?
Do you have a router? Are all the pieces really the same size -- or close?
Then try routing a 3/32" deep stop dado in a piece of lumber of your choice
that fits the pieces. Cut the dado 1" wide but longer than the pieces,
actually -- that is, so that the full-width section of the dado is the
right length for the pieces but the radius of the router bit extends
further. IOW, do not route to length and then square the corners.
Instead, the extra rounded length gives you an easy way to get in to lift
up each piece after sanding. If this does not fit your fancy, maybe some
variation will. FWIW.
PERHAPS, this system would also work to hold the pieces for finishing by
the planer, but I do not know since I've never used one. -- Igor
On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 13:08:02 -0500, "Stephen M"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Line them up side by side to form a pannel. Clam one end of all the "rulers"
>down with caul (a board placed scross them at 90 degrees).
>
>Use a palm ROS, then switch the caul to the other end to reach the other
>edge.
>
>Flip, repeat.
>
>
>
I second Stephen's suggestion but have an extra sacrificial piece on
each end of the panel so that the ROS doesn't 'over' sand the outside
edges of the good pieces.
TWS
For future reference, it would have been a lot easier to sand out the
bandsaw marks before you cut it into small pieces.
Steve
"Lawrence Wasserman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> todd the wood junkie <[email protected]> wrote:
>>I am making a jewerly box out of honey locust. Inside the box are
>>(what seems like) miles of small dividers that are going to be joined
>>in a half-lap design. I have bandsawed these dividers to about 12 x 1
>>x 1/8 " (about the size of the old rulers you had at school). I don't
>>want to run them through the planer to get all the bandsaw lines out
>>because I've had a few planer explosions in the past with stuff under
>>1/8, and don't want to risk that.
>>
>>Sanding them with the palm sander is my only power option, and is a
>>major PITA because I don't have an easy way to secure them other than
>>holding them in my hands. At the end of working on them, my hands feel
>>like they have fallen asleep they are tingling so much. Would a
>>sanding mat help here?
>
> Absolutely. I use a piece of carpet foam and it holds material so
> securely that I can use a router on them, not just sand.
> --
>
> Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
> [email protected]
>