We are anticipating a production line assembly of wood boxes. All
sides, top and bottom assembled at once then the sides/ends cut to
create a lid to be hinged. This make a "no run" glue important.
To prevent glue "runs" during assembly I have tried Titebond molding
and trim glue which up front is great for the no run aspect but will
it hold is still out. Elmers Probond is a real disappointment in that
cured it remains gummy, unable to scrape and hell to sand.
These are butt joints, end grain to side grain with red oak. Not
structural or exposed to water.
Several years ago a friend in the commercial cabinet business showed
me some "pink stuff" that he had been given by a salesman. He spread
it on a edge joint with ash clamped and waited 5 minutes. When whacked
on a table the ash broke with the grain but the joint held. I think he
told me the cost was 50/60 dollars a gallon. Alas he retired and I
haven't been in touch since. Any thoughts/comments?
Thanks for any help.
In article <[email protected]>, digger44
@gmail.com says...
> These are butt joints, end grain to side grain with red oak. Not
> structural or exposed to water.
>
I've never seen anything that would hold in end grain like the FastCaps
superglue.
"Digger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> We are anticipating a production line assembly of wood boxes. All
> sides, top and bottom assembled at once then the sides/ends cut to
> create a lid to be hinged. This make a "no run" glue important.
>
> To prevent glue "runs" during assembly I have tried Titebond molding
> and trim glue which up front is great for the no run aspect but will
> it hold is still out.
I have used it when I needed no dripping. It has worked fine.
Any glue on the market is a safe bet to hold properly.