Best jointing glue.

"PVR" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I wish to make a board eight feet long and 16" wide. I shall use purchased
>red oak from HD or Lowe's. I believe this comes in boards or planks up to
>8" wide. I shall use biscuits for the jointing and various clamps. After
>jointing and sanding the board will be stained and clear coated, probably
>with urethane.
>
> Which glue is best for this jointing project? PVA, urethane, catalyzed
> epoxy, etc? I want the board to be strong as it will be used for a small
> domestic bar top.
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Peter.
>

All the glues will be strong enough HOWEVER if the joint line is not perfect
TiteBondIII will dry to a color that more closely match Oak than most of the
others. It dries to a medium brown color rather than clear or yellow.

Thou shall get better adhesion (with any of the glues mentioned) if
thou shall "freshen thine edge first". This is best done with a
jointer but thou may also useth thine simple sandeth papier. I would
suggesth "wood glue". and be sure to clampth thine planks whilst thy
glue doest dryeth.

On Aug 8, 8:59 am, "Toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "PVR" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...>I wish to make a board eight feet long and 16" wide. I shall use purchased
> >red oak from HD or Lowe's. I believe this comes in boards or planks up to
> >8" wide. I shall use biscuits for the jointing and various clamps. After
> >jointing and sanding the board will be stained and clear coated, probably
> >with urethane.
>
> You "shall use purchased red oak"?
> Where are you from?
>
> Any glue is fine.

On Aug 8, 5:48 am, "PVR" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I wish to make a board eight feet long and 16" wide. I shall use purchased
> red oak from HD or Lowe's. I believe this comes in boards or planks up to 8"
> wide. I shall use biscuits for the jointing and various clamps. After
> jointing and sanding the board will be stained and clear coated, probably
> with urethane.
>
> Which glue is best for this jointing project? PVA, urethane, catalyzed
> epoxy, etc? I want the board to be strong as it will be used for a small
> domestic bar top.
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Peter.

Yellow glue's fine. Make the joints even more invisible by gluing
up from three boards instead of two, since your eyes tend to
go to the center of a board.

The tightest and flattest joints are made with a hand plane,
with the jointed boards clamped together and planed at the
same time. Even a block plane will do a better job than a
jointer.

On Aug 8, 2:48 am, "PVR" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I wish to make a board eight feet long and 16" wide. I shall use purchased
> red oak [and biscuit joints to make a bar top]

Oak and maple are 'sweet' woods; if any water gets in, they will
support
molds, and black marks are likely. For a bar, resinous woods are
usually
preferred (mahogany, or teak, or ipe). That said, an oak glue-up with
water-intolerant glues will be fine as long as the finish coat is
impermeable.
I've never thought satin urethane was ugly.

Of course, if the finish coat IS impermeable, you could top the bar
with
a sheet of plywood and get good appearance and adequate durability.

On Aug 9, 7:12 am, B A R R Y <[email protected]> wrote:
[schnipferized]
>
> Afore, I toiled mid a sister, bestowed with a Master's of Old English
> and Library Science of Harvard. She greeteth me each morrow in words

Why am I hearing Shelley Long's voice echo in my brain?

On Aug 10, 6:56 am, B A R R Y <[email protected]> wrote:
> Robatoy wrote:
> > On Aug 9, 7:12 am, B A R R Y <[email protected]> wrote:
> > [schnipferized]
> >> Afore, I toiled mid a sister, bestowed with a Master's of Old English
> >> and Library Science of Harvard. She greeteth me each morrow in words
>
> > Why am I hearing Shelley Long's voice echo in my brain?
>
> The woman I worked with was no Shelly Long. 8^(
>
> This woman was extremely intelligent, but in true nerd fashion, would
> sometimes wear the same sweater for a week. Eeeewwwwwwwwwww!

Thank you very frickin' much for that mental invasion. Gawd, you poor
man.
She probably didn't go near a razor either, huh?

Use the widest board in center rembering a HD 8" board is 7 1/4" and
then add a 4 or 5" board to either side.As stated above this gets your
eye off the seam in the dead center. biscuits are fine if it helps
you align the board and you own the tool. Biscuits are not need to
make it stronger. With proper clamping the top will be flat with or
without bisquits. I would add a 2-3" piece of Oak under the leading
edge on all four sides if design allows. This will give a beefer look
which I think is right for a bar top not to mention alot of added
strenght. On the under piece I would miter the corners and when done
use a rasp to soften the corners by rounding them some. If your
looking to increase your skills drop a small walnut inlay on the front
edge. Do this before you mitre so If you dont like it flip it.

PVR wrote:
> I wish to make a board eight feet long and 16" wide. I shall use purchased
> red oak from HD or Lowe's. I believe this comes in boards or planks up to 8"
> wide. I shall use biscuits for the jointing and various clamps.

The most important thing is to make sure that the mating surfaces of the
two boards match each other as closely as possible. You want as small
of a gap as possible between the boards. Ideally, it should be possible
to close any gaps using just hand pressure.

Chris

SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> Thou shall get better adhesion (with any of the glues mentioned) if
> thou shall "freshen thine edge first". This is best done with a
> jointer but thou may also useth thine simple sandeth papier. I would
> suggesth "wood glue". and be sure to clampth thine planks whilst thy
^^^^^^^^
Where are YOU from? I pray thee and I wouldst urge thee to reconsider
thy course and that thine word would benefiteth from being spelt
"suggesteth".

;-)

Bill




--
I'm not not at the above address.
http://nmwoodworks.com


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J T wrote:

> What is a "domestic" bar top? One that's trained, or used only for
> domestic beer, or what?

It's for his servants ... the 'domestics'.


--
I'm not not at the above address.
http://nmwoodworks.com


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Wed, Aug 8, 2007, 5:48am [email protected] (PVR) doth stumble in
and seemingly casts out with:
I wish to make a board <snip> I shall use biscuits for the jointing and
various clamps. <snippity>
Which glue is best for this jointing project? <snippity snip> I want the
board to be strong as it will be used for a small domestic bar top.

I wish I could do card tricks.

I think you mean "joining". Do you mean you're going to make
various clamps? Or do you mean you're going to use various clamps
during the"joining" of the two boards? Punctuation IS important.

If you brace it under, then it will be strong enough. If you don't
brace it under, I'd hate to count on my beer bottle not tipping over.
What is a "domestic" bar top? One that's trained, or used only for
domestic beer, or what?



JOAT
I do things I don't know how to do, so that I might learn how to do
them.
- Picasso

On Fri, 10 Aug 2007 15:13:50 -0700, Robatoy <[email protected]>
wrote:

>She probably didn't go near a razor either, huh?

Rob is telepathic!

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

PVR wrote:
>
> Which glue is best for this jointing project? PVA, urethane, catalyzed
> epoxy, etc? I want the board to be strong as it will be used for a small
> domestic bar top.

All of those glues are stronger than the wood.

I do my glue-ups with standard yellow glue, including doors that get
milled and large table tops, and I've never had a glue failure.

Robatoy wrote:
> On Aug 9, 7:12 am, B A R R Y <[email protected]> wrote:
> [schnipferized]
>> Afore, I toiled mid a sister, bestowed with a Master's of Old English
>> and Library Science of Harvard. She greeteth me each morrow in words
>
> Why am I hearing Shelley Long's voice echo in my brain?
>


The woman I worked with was no Shelly Long. 8^(

This woman was extremely intelligent, but in true nerd fashion, would
sometimes wear the same sweater for a week. Eeeewwwwwwwwwww!

Try TiteBond III, it's waterproof. Most other plain generic yellow
glues won't be--at least not after significant wetting and moisture.
Since you are going to use it as a bar top (i.e. spilled drinks, water
rings from glasses, etc), having the glue joint dissolve or weaken due
to moisture exposure would be bad.

Just my opinion....

>I wish to make a board eight feet long and 16" wide. I shall use purchased
>red oak from HD or Lowe's. I believe this comes in boards or planks up to 8"
>wide. I shall use biscuits for the jointing and various clamps. After
>jointing and sanding the board will be stained and clear coated, probably
>with urethane.
>
>Which glue is best for this jointing project? PVA, urethane, catalyzed
>epoxy, etc? I want the board to be strong as it will be used for a small
>domestic bar top.
>
>Many thanks,
>
>Peter.
>

"PVR" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I wish to make a board eight feet long and 16" wide. I shall use purchased
>red oak from HD or Lowe's. I believe this comes in boards or planks up to
>8" wide. I shall use biscuits for the jointing and various clamps. After
>jointing and sanding the board will be stained and clear coated, probably
>with urethane.
>
You "shall use purchased red oak"?
Where are you from?

Any glue is fine.

SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> Thou shall get better adhesion (with any of the glues mentioned) if
> thou shall "freshen thine edge first". This is best done with a
> jointer but thou may also useth thine simple sandeth papier. I would
> suggesth "wood glue". and be sure to clampth thine planks whilst thy
> glue doest dryeth.

Ye must mind your P's and Q's, as ye Olde English writs be held in high
regard!

Afore, I toiled mid a sister, bestowed with a Master's of Old English
and Library Science of Harvard. She greeteth me each morrow in words

On Wed, 8 Aug 2007 05:48:47 -0400, "PVR" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I wish to make a board eight feet long and 16" wide. I shall use purchased
>red oak from HD or Lowe's. I believe this comes in boards or planks up to 8"
>wide. I shall use biscuits for the jointing and various clamps. After
>jointing and sanding the board will be stained and clear coated, probably
>with urethane.
>
>Which glue is best for this jointing project? PVA, urethane, catalyzed
>epoxy, etc? I want the board to be strong as it will be used for a small
>domestic bar top.
>
>Many thanks,
>
>Peter.

Yellow carpenter's glue. I use Elmer's. When cured, the joint line
will be stronger than the wood, if applied and clamped properly.

On Wed, 08 Aug 2007 05:48:47 -0400, PVR wrote:

> I wish to make a board eight feet long and 16" wide. I shall use purchased
> red oak from HD or Lowe's. I believe this comes in boards or planks up to 8"
> wide. I shall use biscuits for the jointing and various clamps. After
> jointing and sanding the board will be stained and clear coated, probably
> with urethane.
>
> Which glue is best for this jointing project? PVA, urethane, catalyzed
> epoxy, etc? I want the board to be strong as it will be used for a small
> domestic bar top.
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Peter.
Use a wood grained high pressure laminate, waterproof glue to a water
resistant (humidity resistant) substrate.