I just learned an interesting lesson about bandsaws and what can happen
when the blade binds.
I obtained about 20 feet of 10"x10" pine beams from a rennovation site
(100 years old beams with very tight growth rings). I had the beam cut
into 4 foot sections and then proceeded to resaw them into more
manageable planks 2-3" thick. Anyway, as I was cutting through the
second one, the blade bound up. I waited a few seconds, turned off
the saw; readjusted the beam; turned on the saw, etc., I repeated this
process about four times and only then decided that I needed to drive
some wedges into the kerf to open the kerf up. So I did this, turned
on the saw; waited a second; when the blade remained frozen I turned
off the saw, wedged the kerf more; and repeated. After about the fifth
try wedging the kerf open, my saw was free and I managed to cut the
rest of the beam. Unfortunately, the tracking on the saw was now
terrible and the blade didn't cut well at all.
It turns out that while the blade didn't move, the 2HP motor and belt
did, and the wheels spun free under the blade. I probably would have
heard something except for the fact that I had hearing protection on at
the time. It also turns out the melting point of urethane tires is
somewhat lower than the the heat you can generate from rubbing urethane
against steel at several thousand RPMs. My tires melted. Lesson
learned. I don't recall this lesson in "The Bandsaw Book," but perhaps
it was too obvious to print.
At least Rockler has free shipping for the month of March so I was able
to get a new set of tires ordered and shipped for about $25.
Never ran into this, but thanks for the
heads up Lars!
Most always with hearing protection in the shop.
Lou
In article <2005032110035316807%lars@gsblasuchicagoedu>, Lars S.
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I just learned an interesting lesson about bandsaws and what can happen
> when the blade binds.
>
> I obtained about 20 feet of 10"x10" pine beams from a rennovation site
> (100 years old beams with very tight growth rings). I had the beam cut
> into 4 foot sections and then proceeded to resaw them into more
> manageable planks 2-3" thick. Anyway, as I was cutting through the
> second one, the blade bound up. I waited a few seconds, turned off
> the saw; readjusted the beam; turned on the saw, etc., I repeated this
> process about four times and only then decided that I needed to drive
> some wedges into the kerf to open the kerf up. So I did this, turned
> on the saw; waited a second; when the blade remained frozen I turned
> off the saw, wedged the kerf more; and repeated. After about the fifth
> try wedging the kerf open, my saw was free and I managed to cut the
> rest of the beam. Unfortunately, the tracking on the saw was now
> terrible and the blade didn't cut well at all.
>
> It turns out that while the blade didn't move, the 2HP motor and belt
> did, and the wheels spun free under the blade. I probably would have
> heard something except for the fact that I had hearing protection on at
> the time. It also turns out the melting point of urethane tires is
> somewhat lower than the the heat you can generate from rubbing urethane
> against steel at several thousand RPMs. My tires melted. Lesson
> learned. I don't recall this lesson in "The Bandsaw Book," but perhaps
> it was too obvious to print.
>
> At least Rockler has free shipping for the month of March so I was able
> to get a new set of tires ordered and shipped for about $25.
>
>
Makes much less difference than the position of the heart in the beams in
question, and the moisture content of the center versus the outside. Both
can cause the kerf to close, _regardless_ the blade. Also very important to
have a flat surface down so the piece won't roll and bind.
The real lesson is to keep a few of those shingles or shims available as
wedges and use them. Also watch what's happening with the cut while doing
such pieces.
"GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'll just join the others in thanking you for the posting. I'd be
interesting
> in finding out the blade style, tpi and pitch and such.
> GerryG
>
> On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 10:03:53 -0600, Lars S. <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
> >I just learned an interesting lesson about bandsaws and what can happen
> >when the blade binds.
> >
> >I obtained about 20 feet of 10"x10" pine beams from a rennovation site
> >(100 years old beams with very tight growth rings). I had the beam cut
> >into 4 foot sections and then proceeded to resaw them into more
> >manageable planks 2-3" thick. Anyway, as I was cutting through the
> >second one, the blade bound up. I waited a few seconds, turned off
> >the saw; readjusted the beam; turned on the saw, etc., I repeated this
> >process about four times and only then decided that I needed to drive
> >some wedges into the kerf to open the kerf up. So I did this, turned
> >on the saw; waited a second; when the blade remained frozen I turned
> >off the saw, wedged the kerf more; and repeated. After about the fifth
> >try wedging the kerf open, my saw was free and I managed to cut the
> >rest of the beam. Unfortunately, the tracking on the saw was now
> >terrible and the blade didn't cut well at all.
In my case, I was using a 1/2" wood slicer (I forget the teeth layout,
but I think it's 3tpi). The problem, as only now I can fully
appreciate, is that I was sawing down the middle of the heart and
(possibly) the beams had taken on some rain on the outside. The blade
completely locked up like a 10" bench vise. It took two metal chisels
to get the kerf open enough to tap in the wooden wedges.
Now I have a dozen wedges of various sizes and a few thick metal
chisels at my disposal. When I get my new urethane tires, I'll give
resawing another try.
Lars
On 2005-03-22 10:14:48 -0600, "George" <george@least> said:
> Makes much less difference than the position of the heart in the beams in
> question, and the moisture content of the center versus the outside. Both
> can cause the kerf to close, _regardless_ the blade. Also very important to
> have a flat surface down so the piece won't roll and bind.
>
> The real lesson is to keep a few of those shingles or shims available as
> wedges and use them. Also watch what's happening with the cut while doing
> such pieces.
>
> "GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I'll just join the others in thanking you for the posting. I'd be
> interesting
>> in finding out the blade style, tpi and pitch and such.
>> GerryG
>>
>> On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 10:03:53 -0600, Lars S. <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>>
>>> I just learned an interesting lesson about bandsaws and what can happen
>>> when the blade binds.
>>>
>>> I obtained about 20 feet of 10"x10" pine beams from a rennovation site
>>> (100 years old beams with very tight growth rings). I had the beam cut
>>> into 4 foot sections and then proceeded to resaw them into more
>>> manageable planks 2-3" thick. Anyway, as I was cutting through the
>>> second one, the blade bound up. I waited a few seconds, turned off
>>> the saw; readjusted the beam; turned on the saw, etc., I repeated this
>>> process about four times and only then decided that I needed to drive
>>> some wedges into the kerf to open the kerf up. So I did this, turned
>>> on the saw; waited a second; when the blade remained frozen I turned
>>> off the saw, wedged the kerf more; and repeated. After about the fifth
>>> try wedging the kerf open, my saw was free and I managed to cut the
>>> rest of the beam. Unfortunately, the tracking on the saw was now
>>> terrible and the blade didn't cut well at all.
On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 15:08:44 -0600, Lars S. <[email protected]> wrote:
>In my case, I was using a 1/2" wood slicer (I forget the teeth layout,
>but I think it's 3tpi). The problem, as only now I can fully
>appreciate, is that I was sawing down the middle of the heart and
>(possibly) the beams had taken on some rain on the outside. The blade
>completely locked up like a 10" bench vise. It took two metal chisels
>to get the kerf open enough to tap in the wooden wedges.
>
>Now I have a dozen wedges of various sizes and a few thick metal
>chisels at my disposal. When I get my new urethane tires, I'll give
>resawing another try.
>
>Lars
<snip>
Lars..
Just 2 cents from a newbie, but for resawing 10x10" hardwood, (which could be a
gloat in itself, so you suck ), I'd want the biggest blade that your saw can
use... usually a 3/4" 3TPI..
I buy my blades at a local saw shop that welds them up when you come in, and I
tell them what I want the blade for... for resawing, they made a couple of 3/4"
with 3 tpi and (I probably have this wrong) something about little of no tooth
set and no raker teeth??
They seem to be very good blades and were about $15 each..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> "mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
>>Most of my info is from the wRECk, but my feeling is that for resawing and
>>most
>>straight stuff, you want the widest, TPI blade that you can mount, unless
>>you're
>>cutting fine slices, in which case you want a 3/4" blade with no set and
>>more
>>TPI, for a smooth cut...
>>
>
>
> I've had a few people tell me the best re-saw blade for a 14" is 1/2" That
> comes from even people that make/sell blades like Suffolk Machine. You also
> don't want too many teeth so the cut material can be carried away more
> easily. I use a 3 TPI
>
While the widest blade possible is ideal for rewasing other factors
related to the particular saw come into play along with the blade width.
The saw's frame must have the ablitiy to hold the tension on the blade
while under load of resawing and the motor must have sufficient power to
overcome the blade drag of the wider blades. For most 14" bandsaws a
1/2" blade is recommended because of these limitations.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
(Remove -SPAM- to send email)
I was thinking of using 3/4", but somewhere I read that such wide
blades would wear out quickly on a 14" bandsaw because the turning
radius is too tight. That is why I settled for 1/2".
Have you had good exerpiences with your 3/4" blades on a 14" saw? Or
is your saw a bit larger?
Lars
On 2005-03-23 11:33:03 -0600, mac davis <[email protected]> said:
> On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 15:08:44 -0600, Lars S. <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> In my case, I was using a 1/2" wood slicer (I forget the teeth layout,
>> but I think it's 3tpi). The problem, as only now I can fully
>> appreciate, is that I was sawing down the middle of the heart and
>> (possibly) the beams had taken on some rain on the outside. The blade
>> completely locked up like a 10" bench vise. It took two metal chisels
>> to get the kerf open enough to tap in the wooden wedges.
>>
>> Now I have a dozen wedges of various sizes and a few thick metal
>> chisels at my disposal. When I get my new urethane tires, I'll give
>> resawing another try.
>>
>> Lars
>
> <snip>
>
> Lars..
>
> Just 2 cents from a newbie, but for resawing 10x10" hardwood, (which could be a
> gloat in itself, so you suck ), I'd want the biggest blade that your saw can
> use... usually a 3/4" 3TPI..
>
> I buy my blades at a local saw shop that welds them up when you come in, and I
> tell them what I want the blade for... for resawing, they made a couple of 3/4"
> with 3 tpi and (I probably have this wrong) something about little of no tooth
> set and no raker teeth??
>
> They seem to be very good blades and were about $15 each..
>
>
>
> mac
>
> Please remove splinters before emailing
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >
> > Most of my info is from the wRECk, but my feeling is that for resawing
and
> > most
> > straight stuff, you want the widest, TPI blade that you can mount,
unless
> > you're
> > cutting fine slices, in which case you want a 3/4" blade with no set and
> > more
> > TPI, for a smooth cut...
> >
>
>
> I've had a few people tell me the best re-saw blade for a 14" is 1/2" That
> comes from even people that make/sell blades like Suffolk Machine. You
also
> don't want too many teeth so the cut material can be carried away more
> easily. I use a 3 TPI
>
>
They make a lovely 3/4 as well, specifically for the 14" set. 3AS-S at .025
thickness, raker set. Does a good resaw.
http://www.timberwolf1.com/band_saw_information.asp scroll down to AS-S
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Most of my info is from the wRECk, but my feeling is that for resawing and
> most
> straight stuff, you want the widest, TPI blade that you can mount, unless
> you're
> cutting fine slices, in which case you want a 3/4" blade with no set and
> more
> TPI, for a smooth cut...
>
I've had a few people tell me the best re-saw blade for a 14" is 1/2" That
comes from even people that make/sell blades like Suffolk Machine. You also
don't want too many teeth so the cut material can be carried away more
easily. I use a 3 TPI
On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 11:35:08 -0600, Lars S. <[email protected]> wrote:
>I was thinking of using 3/4", but somewhere I read that such wide
>blades would wear out quickly on a 14" bandsaw because the turning
>radius is too tight. That is why I settled for 1/2".
>
>Have you had good exerpiences with your 3/4" blades on a 14" saw? Or
>is your saw a bit larger?
>
>Lars
nope, 14" Ridgid with the riser kit..
I guess it depends on what you're cutting and how often you change blades..
My manual says that a 3/4" blade will cut a 7" dia. circle, a 1/2" about a 5"...
seems pretty accurate so far...
Most of my info is from the wRECk, but my feeling is that for resawing and most
straight stuff, you want the widest, TPI blade that you can mount, unless you're
cutting fine slices, in which case you want a 3/4" blade with no set and more
TPI, for a smooth cut...
OTOH, if you're doing a lot of smaller curves or scroll work, you'd change to a
1/4" or 3/8" blade with a lot of TPI...
I hate blade changes since I added a shop built table to the saw, so I keep a
5/8" 4 TPI blade on most of the time.. does ok for the limited slicing I do,
stands up to cutting 7 or 8" thick green blanks, and gives me a good tight curve
for rounding bowl blanks.. YMMV
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 00:32:48 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> Most of my info is from the wRECk, but my feeling is that for resawing and
>> most
>> straight stuff, you want the widest, TPI blade that you can mount, unless
>> you're
>> cutting fine slices, in which case you want a 3/4" blade with no set and
>> more
>> TPI, for a smooth cut...
>>
>
>
>I've had a few people tell me the best re-saw blade for a 14" is 1/2" That
>comes from even people that make/sell blades like Suffolk Machine. You also
>don't want too many teeth so the cut material can be carried away more
>easily. I use a 3 TPI
>
I think it depends on the saw (mine suggests 5/8" or 3/4" for resawing) and why
you're resawing...
I"m pretty much slicing thick slabs that will be turned, so the 3 TPI is fine,
but I understand that if you're slicing thin veneer that you want a fine tooth
blade, both to minimize tear out and give a minimum kerf..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Thank you for sharing the story. Many of us have resawed wood and
there are plenty tricks and tips that are helpful (I wish I knew them
all). My saw blade binded up once, then I read Duginski's book and
did a complete bandsaw tuneup. I probably can use new tires after 14
year and now a new shop-made tension release crank.
On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 10:03:53 -0600, Lars S. <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I just learned an interesting lesson about bandsaws and what can happen
>when the blade binds.
>
>I obtained about 20 feet of 10"x10" pine beams from a rennovation site
>(100 years old beams with very tight growth rings). I had the beam cut
>into 4 foot sections and then proceeded to resaw them into more
>manageable planks 2-3" thick. Anyway, as I was cutting through the
>second one, the blade bound up. I waited a few seconds, turned off
>the saw; readjusted the beam; turned on the saw, etc., I repeated this
>process about four times and only then decided that I needed to drive
>some wedges into the kerf to open the kerf up. So I did this, turned
>on the saw; waited a second; when the blade remained frozen I turned
>off the saw, wedged the kerf more; and repeated. After about the fifth
>try wedging the kerf open, my saw was free and I managed to cut the
>rest of the beam. Unfortunately, the tracking on the saw was now
>terrible and the blade didn't cut well at all.
>
>It turns out that while the blade didn't move, the 2HP motor and belt
>did, and the wheels spun free under the blade. I probably would have
>heard something except for the fact that I had hearing protection on at
>the time. It also turns out the melting point of urethane tires is
>somewhat lower than the the heat you can generate from rubbing urethane
>against steel at several thousand RPMs. My tires melted. Lesson
>learned. I don't recall this lesson in "The Bandsaw Book," but perhaps
>it was too obvious to print.
>
>At least Rockler has free shipping for the month of March so I was able
>to get a new set of tires ordered and shipped for about $25.
>
On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 10:03:53 -0600, Lars S. <[email protected]> wrote:
>I just learned an interesting lesson about bandsaws and what can happen
>when the blade binds.
>
>I obtained about 20 feet of 10"x10" pine beams from a rennovation site
>(100 years old beams with very tight growth rings). I had the beam cut
>into 4 foot sections and then proceeded to resaw them into more
>manageable planks 2-3" thick. Anyway, as I was cutting through the
>second one, the blade bound up. I waited a few seconds, turned off
>the saw; readjusted the beam; turned on the saw, etc., I repeated this
>process about four times and only then decided that I needed to drive
>some wedges into the kerf to open the kerf up. So I did this, turned
>on the saw; waited a second; when the blade remained frozen I turned
>off the saw, wedged the kerf more; and repeated. After about the fifth
>try wedging the kerf open, my saw was free and I managed to cut the
>rest of the beam. Unfortunately, the tracking on the saw was now
>terrible and the blade didn't cut well at all.
>
>It turns out that while the blade didn't move, the 2HP motor and belt
>did, and the wheels spun free under the blade. I probably would have
>heard something except for the fact that I had hearing protection on at
>the time. It also turns out the melting point of urethane tires is
>somewhat lower than the the heat you can generate from rubbing urethane
>against steel at several thousand RPMs. My tires melted. Lesson
>learned. I don't recall this lesson in "The Bandsaw Book," but perhaps
>it was too obvious to print.
>
>At least Rockler has free shipping for the month of March so I was able
>to get a new set of tires ordered and shipped for about $25.
>
I'm new to bandsaws, so I took a tip from my lathe experience and have fairly
low tension on the belt... my theory being that I'd rather have the belt slip
than the blade, (blade slipping on the tires), or the blade kinking and screwing
up the tires and/or guides (BTDT)
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
This sounds like a good idea. I'll check the belt tension when I
replace the tires and possibly reduce it a bit. Now that I think about
it, I suppose that it is possible I put too much tension on the belt in
the first place. Time to blow the saw dust off the manual and take a
look.
Lars
On 2005-03-23 11:25:48 -0600, mac davis <[email protected]> said:
> On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 10:03:53 -0600, Lars S. <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I just learned an interesting lesson about bandsaws and what can happen
>> when the blade binds.
>>
>> I obtained about 20 feet of 10"x10" pine beams from a rennovation site
>> (100 years old beams with very tight growth rings). I had the beam cut
>> into 4 foot sections and then proceeded to resaw them into more
>> manageable planks 2-3" thick. Anyway, as I was cutting through the
>> second one, the blade bound up. I waited a few seconds, turned off
>> the saw; readjusted the beam; turned on the saw, etc., I repeated this
>> process about four times and only then decided that I needed to drive
>> some wedges into the kerf to open the kerf up. So I did this, turned
>> on the saw; waited a second; when the blade remained frozen I turned
>> off the saw, wedged the kerf more; and repeated. After about the fifth
>> try wedging the kerf open, my saw was free and I managed to cut the
>> rest of the beam. Unfortunately, the tracking on the saw was now
>> terrible and the blade didn't cut well at all.
>>
>> It turns out that while the blade didn't move, the 2HP motor and belt
>> did, and the wheels spun free under the blade. I probably would have
>> heard something except for the fact that I had hearing protection on at
>> the time. It also turns out the melting point of urethane tires is
>> somewhat lower than the the heat you can generate from rubbing urethane
>> against steel at several thousand RPMs. My tires melted. Lesson
>> learned. I don't recall this lesson in "The Bandsaw Book," but perhaps
>> it was too obvious to print.
>>
>> At least Rockler has free shipping for the month of March so I was able
>> to get a new set of tires ordered and shipped for about $25.
>>
> I'm new to bandsaws, so I took a tip from my lathe experience and have fairly
> low tension on the belt... my theory being that I'd rather have the belt slip
> than the blade, (blade slipping on the tires), or the blade kinking and
> screwing
> up the tires and/or guides (BTDT)
>
>
>
> mac
>
> Please remove splinters before emailing
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Peter.. I almost learned that "sound lesson" last night...
>
> The band saw is close to the DC and with all the noise of the DC, I almost
stuck
> my hand into the blade, thinking it was off..
> Luckily, My fear factor has made me develop a habit of patting the switch
to
> make sure that it's off..
> It's one of those things like looking at your watch.. I didn't even
realize that
> I do it, until I touched it and found it on..
>
Don't rely on the switch. My most embarrassing injury cane to the knuckle
of the ring finger on my right hand. Almost vertical cut, which fortunately
missed the tendon.
As the doc was sewing it up, he asked how. I said "band saw," then noticed
his puzzled expression as he tried to figure out how I could have done it.
Easy to do if you turn the machine off and begin to brush away the dust as
it freewheels silently to a stop...
Looking at this problem from a different view Lars.
It is important to be aware that ALL drive belts, whether bandsaw or vee
belts are designed to transmit drive, ideally with minimum or no slip! Where
there is slip there is friction and heat which leads to inevitable failure.
Just like the weakest link in a chain, whether it is the vee belt, aluminium
pulley or bandsaw tire. Even a car clutch which is designed to slip while it
gradually takes up the drive/ load, it too will wear out prematurely, if it
is slipped excessively. If your bandsaw blade slipped on the tyres, then it
either had too much load and excessive power to stall the motor, or there
was insufficient drive to the blade which allowed it to slip in the first
place.
Whilst I am in agreement to reduce all areas of industrial harm such as
dust, loud noises etc. One does need to be able to hear machinery running,
in order to hear any changes that can indicate a problem is occurring. It is
potentially dangerous to insulate ourselves totally from the tools we use,
not only for the machines sake, but also for our own safety.
Cheers from 'Down Under'
********************************
,-._|\ Peter Stacey
/ Oz \ Melbourne Australia
\_,--.x/ [email protected]
v
"Lars S." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:2005032311384375249%lars@gsblasuchicagoedu...
> This sounds like a good idea. I'll check the belt tension when I
> replace the tires and possibly reduce it a bit. Now that I think about
> it, I suppose that it is possible I put too much tension on the belt in
> the first place. Time to blow the saw dust off the manual and take a
> look.
>
> Lars
>
>
> On 2005-03-23 11:25:48 -0600, mac davis <[email protected]>
said:
>
> > On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 10:03:53 -0600, Lars S. <[email protected]>
wrote:
> >
> >> I just learned an interesting lesson about bandsaws and what can happen
> >> when the blade binds.
> >>
> >> I obtained about 20 feet of 10"x10" pine beams from a rennovation site
> >> (100 years old beams with very tight growth rings). I had the beam cut
> >> into 4 foot sections and then proceeded to resaw them into more
> >> manageable planks 2-3" thick. Anyway, as I was cutting through the
> >> second one, the blade bound up. I waited a few seconds, turned off
> >> the saw; readjusted the beam; turned on the saw, etc., I repeated this
> >> process about four times and only then decided that I needed to drive
> >> some wedges into the kerf to open the kerf up. So I did this, turned
> >> on the saw; waited a second; when the blade remained frozen I turned
> >> off the saw, wedged the kerf more; and repeated. After about the fifth
> >> try wedging the kerf open, my saw was free and I managed to cut the
> >> rest of the beam. Unfortunately, the tracking on the saw was now
> >> terrible and the blade didn't cut well at all.
> >>
> >> It turns out that while the blade didn't move, the 2HP motor and belt
> >> did, and the wheels spun free under the blade. I probably would have
> >> heard something except for the fact that I had hearing protection on at
> >> the time. It also turns out the melting point of urethane tires is
> >> somewhat lower than the the heat you can generate from rubbing urethane
> >> against steel at several thousand RPMs. My tires melted. Lesson
> >> learned. I don't recall this lesson in "The Bandsaw Book," but perhaps
> >> it was too obvious to print.
> >>
> >> At least Rockler has free shipping for the month of March so I was able
> >> to get a new set of tires ordered and shipped for about $25.
> >>
> > I'm new to bandsaws, so I took a tip from my lathe experience and have
fairly
> > low tension on the belt... my theory being that I'd rather have the belt
slip
> > than the blade, (blade slipping on the tires), or the blade kinking and
> > screwing
> > up the tires and/or guides (BTDT)
> >
> >
> >
> > mac
> >
> > Please remove splinters before emailing
>
>
On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 14:59:13 -0500, "George" <george@least> wrote:
>
>"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Peter.. I almost learned that "sound lesson" last night...
>>
>> The band saw is close to the DC and with all the noise of the DC, I almost
>stuck
>> my hand into the blade, thinking it was off..
>> Luckily, My fear factor has made me develop a habit of patting the switch
>to
>> make sure that it's off..
>> It's one of those things like looking at your watch.. I didn't even
>realize that
>> I do it, until I touched it and found it on..
>>
>
>Don't rely on the switch. My most embarrassing injury cane to the knuckle
>of the ring finger on my right hand. Almost vertical cut, which fortunately
>missed the tendon.
>
>As the doc was sewing it up, he asked how. I said "band saw," then noticed
>his puzzled expression as he tried to figure out how I could have done it.
>Easy to do if you turn the machine off and begin to brush away the dust as
>it freewheels silently to a stop...
>
good point, George... I think that reading your story of that injury ( a few
months before getting my BS) has been in my mind and keeping me away from a
blade that MIGHT be moving..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 11:30:22 +1100, "L. Peter Stacey" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Looking at this problem from a different view Lars.
>It is important to be aware that ALL drive belts, whether bandsaw or vee
>belts are designed to transmit drive, ideally with minimum or no slip! Where
>there is slip there is friction and heat which leads to inevitable failure.
>Just like the weakest link in a chain, whether it is the vee belt, aluminium
>pulley or bandsaw tire. Even a car clutch which is designed to slip while it
>gradually takes up the drive/ load, it too will wear out prematurely, if it
>is slipped excessively. If your bandsaw blade slipped on the tyres, then it
>either had too much load and excessive power to stall the motor, or there
>was insufficient drive to the blade which allowed it to slip in the first
>place.
>Whilst I am in agreement to reduce all areas of industrial harm such as
>dust, loud noises etc. One does need to be able to hear machinery running,
>in order to hear any changes that can indicate a problem is occurring. It is
>potentially dangerous to insulate ourselves totally from the tools we use,
>not only for the machines sake, but also for our own safety.
>Cheers from 'Down Under'
>
>********************************
> ,-._|\ Peter Stacey
> / Oz \ Melbourne Australia
> \_,--.x/ [email protected]
> v
>
Peter.. I almost learned that "sound lesson" last night...
The band saw is close to the DC and with all the noise of the DC, I almost stuck
my hand into the blade, thinking it was off..
Luckily, My fear factor has made me develop a habit of patting the switch to
make sure that it's off..
It's one of those things like looking at your watch.. I didn't even realize that
I do it, until I touched it and found it on..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
I'll just join the others in thanking you for the posting. I'd be interesting
in finding out the blade style, tpi and pitch and such.
GerryG
On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 10:03:53 -0600, Lars S. <[email protected]> wrote:
>I just learned an interesting lesson about bandsaws and what can happen
>when the blade binds.
>
>I obtained about 20 feet of 10"x10" pine beams from a rennovation site
>(100 years old beams with very tight growth rings). I had the beam cut
>into 4 foot sections and then proceeded to resaw them into more
>manageable planks 2-3" thick. Anyway, as I was cutting through the
>second one, the blade bound up. I waited a few seconds, turned off
>the saw; readjusted the beam; turned on the saw, etc., I repeated this
>process about four times and only then decided that I needed to drive
>some wedges into the kerf to open the kerf up. So I did this, turned
>on the saw; waited a second; when the blade remained frozen I turned
>off the saw, wedged the kerf more; and repeated. After about the fifth
>try wedging the kerf open, my saw was free and I managed to cut the
>rest of the beam. Unfortunately, the tracking on the saw was now
>terrible and the blade didn't cut well at all.
>
>It turns out that while the blade didn't move, the 2HP motor and belt
>did, and the wheels spun free under the blade. I probably would have
>heard something except for the fact that I had hearing protection on at
>the time. It also turns out the melting point of urethane tires is
>somewhat lower than the the heat you can generate from rubbing urethane
>against steel at several thousand RPMs. My tires melted. Lesson
>learned. I don't recall this lesson in "The Bandsaw Book," but perhaps
>it was too obvious to print.
>
>At least Rockler has free shipping for the month of March so I was able
>to get a new set of tires ordered and shipped for about $25.
>
On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 11:28:53 -0600, "SwampBug" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>out of curiosity, did you try holding down the beam and hand rotating the blade backwards?
I'd be interested in knowing this too (my experiences is turning the
wheel backwards helped very little). Using wedges (and patience) will
help. With a resaw operation, a binding blade is classic especially
with a large chunk of wood.
out of curiosity, did you try holding down the beam and hand rotating =
the blade backwards?
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Lars S." <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:2005032110035316807%lars@gsblasuchicagoedu...
I just learned an interesting lesson about bandsaws and what can happen=20
when the blade binds.
I obtained about 20 feet of 10"x10" pine beams from a rennovation site=20
(100 years old beams with very tight growth rings). I had the beam cut=20
into 4 foot sections and then proceeded to resaw them into more=20
manageable planks 2-3" thick. Anyway, as I was cutting through the=20
second one, the blade bound up. I waited a few seconds, turned off=20
the saw; readjusted the beam; turned on the saw, etc., I repeated this=20
process about four times and only then decided that I needed to drive=20
some wedges into the kerf to open the kerf up. So I did this, turned=20
on the saw; waited a second; when the blade remained frozen I turned=20
off the saw, wedged the kerf more; and repeated. After about the fifth=20
try wedging the kerf open, my saw was free and I managed to cut the=20
rest of the beam. Unfortunately, the tracking on the saw was now=20
terrible and the blade didn't cut well at all.
It turns out that while the blade didn't move, the 2HP motor and belt=20
did, and the wheels spun free under the blade. I probably would have=20
heard something except for the fact that I had hearing protection on at=20
the time. It also turns out the melting point of urethane tires is=20
somewhat lower than the the heat you can generate from rubbing urethane=20
against steel at several thousand RPMs. My tires melted. Lesson=20
learned. I don't recall this lesson in "The Bandsaw Book," but perhaps=20
it was too obvious to print.
At least Rockler has free shipping for the month of March so I was able=20
to get a new set of tires ordered and shipped for about $25.
On 2005-03-21 11:28:53 -0600, "SwampBug" <[email protected]> said:
> out of curiosity, did you try holding down the beam and hand rotating
> the blade backwards?
I did the first time with no luck -- this is a massive 10" pine beam
and the blade was firmly pinched like a 10" wooden bench vise. If I
had kept opening the cover to try spinning the wheel backwards, of
course, I would have noticed the tires melting. In the future, it will
always be part of my routine when the blade binds.
L
I have never personally encountered the problem or my "thing to try" but =
it was the first thing that come to mind.
--=20
SwampBug
- - - - - - - - - - - -
"Lars S." <[email protected]> wrote in message =
news:2005032112121350073%lars@gsblasuchicagoedu...
On 2005-03-21 11:28:53 -0600, "SwampBug" <[email protected]> said:
> out of curiosity, did you try holding down the beam and hand rotating =
> the blade backwards?
I did the first time with no luck -- this is a massive 10" pine beam=20
and the blade was firmly pinched like a 10" wooden bench vise. If I=20
had kept opening the cover to try spinning the wheel backwards, of=20
course, I would have noticed the tires melting. In the future, it will=20
always be part of my routine when the blade binds.
L