4" Jointer

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 22:30:15 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
<[email protected]> wrote the following:

>"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 10:45:08 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
>> wrote the following:
>>
>>>On 6/23/10 10:06 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>>> We call that a typo.
>>>>
>>>> No, that was a thinko. He misthunk, just as if he'd put "there coats"
>>>> instead of "their coats". The more people see it uncorrected, the more
>>>> people do it.
>>>>
>>>
>>>You don't want to get into a grammar war with me, I assure you. :-)
>>>Aren't you the guy who got into it with me over "none is" vs "none are?"
>>>Maybe it was someone else.
>>
>> Guilty as charged. ;)
>>
>
>How did you live with the Shame?!

Damn your eyes, Lobby Dosser! (wiping up monitor and keyboard)

--
Peace of mind is that mental condition in which you have accepted the worst.
-- Lin Yutang

On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 10:45:08 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote the following:

>On 6/23/10 10:06 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>> We call that a typo.
>>
>> No, that was a thinko. He misthunk, just as if he'd put "there coats"
>> instead of "their coats". The more people see it uncorrected, the more
>> people do it.
>>
>
>You don't want to get into a grammar war with me, I assure you. :-)
>Aren't you the guy who got into it with me over "none is" vs "none are?"
>Maybe it was someone else.

Guilty as charged. ;)


>>>>> Someone in here suggested hammering for cast iron.
>>>>> Thus stuff is remarkably pliable.
>>>>
>>>> If that's the case, it's grey iron, not cast. Cast is brittle and
>>>> would shatter with hammer blows.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Cast is a process, correct? Not a type of metal, nor alloy.
>>
>> It's both. ;) Grey iron is malleable whereas cast isn't. Both are
>> cast, though. Liken it to iron vs. steel. They work and machine
>> entirely differently.
>>
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gray_iron
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cast_iron
>>
>
>I was honestly asking about the difference.

Wasn't I answering your questions with those links, Mike? That was
the intent.


>I'm not questioning the veracity of that particular wiki page, however,
>one must be careful when providing Wikipedia is a source. You own quote
>applies, "The more people see it uncorrected, the more people (believe
>it)."

Incorrect data on Wiki is usually corrected fairly quickly. <shrug>

--
Peace of mind is that mental condition in which you have accepted the worst.
-- Lin Yutang

In article <[email protected]>, Puckdropper
wrote:

> I don't have a drive belt yet, but would a 1/3 horse motor be sufficient
> to use it to joint some pine? It's an old sump pump motor, so I'm not
> sure what speed it runs at.

I've got a similar one, here

http://owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=1221

There are no markings on the motor I have, and I doubt it's the
original (although it could be). The owner manual specifies a 1/3 to
1/2 HP motor with a 4" pulley so that the cutting head is running at
3500 rpm.

djb

--
“The problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people’s
money.” - Margaret Thatcher

In article <[email protected]>, Lew Hodgett
<[email protected]> wrote:

> >> The owner manual specifies a 1/3 to
> >> 1/2 HP motor with a 4" pulley so that the cutting head is running
> >> at
> >> 3500 rpm.
> -------------------------------------
> "Puckdropper" wrote:
>
> > Thanks for the info, Dave. One of these days I'll get a belt and
> > try it
> > out. A 4" pulley might be a crucial piece of information.
> -------------------------------
> The motor will have a standard 5/8" shaft, thus a std 4" pot metal
> sheave (Congress) will work nicely.
>
> The same can't be said for the jointer.

Indeed. I can measure the pulley on mine if desired. I also have a PDF
of the manual, Puckdropper.

--
“The problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people’s
money.” - Margaret Thatcher

On 21 Jun 2010 15:49:33 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote the following:

>Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 21 Jun 2010 06:05:34 GMT, Puckdropper
>> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote the following:
>>
>>>I found a 4" jointer in my Grandpa's attic, and it looked like a neat
>>>tool. The bed is only about 24" in total, but with only 4" blades I'm
>>>not expecting miracles.
>>
>> Those built many a set of dining, living, and bedroom furniture.
>> For your use, build flat in/outfeed tables for it.
>>
>>
>>>There's no identifying marks, but it looks to be a American Machine
>>>and Tool 2432 (http://owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=8932) or
>>>Sears # 149.21871 (It's got the green paint like the one here:
>>>http://owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=1424 )
>>>
>>>I don't have a drive belt yet, but would a 1/3 horse motor be
>>>sufficient to use it to joint some pine? It's an old sump pump motor,
>>>so I'm not sure what speed it runs at.
>>
>> More is better, but that might work to try it. You'll probably have to
>> feed the wood into it fairly slowly.
>
>At the moment, it's all I've got. I can get a more powerful motor later,
>but I don't even know if this machine would be worth investing more than
>a couple bucks in.
>
>>
>>>The infeed table looks like the top is out of flat. How should I go
>>>about trying to flatten it? Should I?
>>
>> If it's cupped or twisted, you'll either need to learn metal scraping
>> or find a machinist who can grind it for you.
>>
>
>I might just leave that part of the infeed table alone then, and use the
>rest. The surface rust at that point was worse than the others (maybe
>because of the porkchop covering it?)
>
>>>One website (http://www.woodworkweb.com/The-Agony-of-Setting-Jointer-
>>>Knives.html) suggested I could hone or sharpen the knives by
>>>installing them close to the outfeed table height, and run the jointer
>>>backwards against a stone set on the outfeed table. Has anyone ever
>>>tried this? (It seems like a dubious idea to me, but it would be easy
>>>to do on this jointer.)
>>
>> You're kidding, aren't you, Pucky? Don't even think it. That would
>> only end up rounding over the leading edge if anything. I think
>> whoever wrote that had their tongue implanted firmly in cheek.
>
>Admittedly, the guy was probably only removing a few thousandths to try
>to get the blades set perfectly. Rounding over the edge did cross my
>mind.

Set perfectly but dulled beyond belief still doesn't get you a working
jointer. Are you sure it wasn't a leg pulling?

--
Peace of mind is that mental condition in which you have accepted the worst.
-- Lin Yutang

>One website (http://www.woodworkweb.com/The-Agony-of-Setting-Jointer-
>Knives.html) suggested I could hone or sharpen the knives by installing
>them close to the outfeed table height, and run the jointer backwards
>against a stone set on the outfeed table. Has anyone ever tried this?

My Powermatic manual states to run the head normally (forward, not
backward) for a temporary resharpening (or touching-up of the blades'
edges). I perform this technique often and it works fine for a quick
fix for blades that are a bit dull. It doesn't work for blades that
are severely dull or with knicks. To me, running it backwards would
cause the edge (burr) to curl toward the infeed side, i.e., counter
productive. Besides, how do you run the jointer backwards?

Take the blades off and sharpen them properly or, I would think 4"
blades aren't that expensive, so get new blades and be done with it,
if the present blades are in fairly bad shape.

Since the infeed table isn't very large, lay a pane of glass on it and
see if it is, in fact, flat or not. It may be flat, but not coplanor
with the outfeed table.

Sonny

On Tue, 22 Jun 2010 10:18:58 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote the following:

>On 6/22/10 9:54 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>> Some rubber mallet blows took care of the course adjustments.
>>> Sand paper on a granite block took care of the fine adjustments.
>>> Then I lightly sanded to whole bed, down to a polish.
>>
>> Course? What direction was its course? Oh, you meant "coarse" dincha?
>> I'm guessing that a large part of that was just adjustment/settling, a
>> minor part actual metal movement.
>>
>
>We call that a typo.

No, that was a thinko. He misthunk, just as if he'd put "there coats"
instead of "their coats". The more people see it uncorrected, the more
people do it.


>>> Someone in here suggested hammering for cast iron.
>>> Thus stuff is remarkably pliable.
>>
>> If that's the case, it's grey iron, not cast. Cast is brittle and
>> would shatter with hammer blows.
>>
>
>Cast is a process, correct? Not a type of metal, nor alloy.

It's both. ;) Grey iron is malleable whereas cast isn't. Both are
cast, though. Liken it to iron vs. steel. They work and machine
entirely differently.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gray_iron
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cast_iron

--
Peace of mind is that mental condition in which you have accepted the worst.
-- Lin Yutang

"Puckdropper" wrote:

>I found a 4" jointer in my Grandpa's attic, and it looked like a neat
> tool. The bed is only about 24" in total, but with only 4" blades
> I'm
> not expecting miracles.
------------------------------------
Looks like a jelly bean home workshop bench top jointer from some time
after WII offered by several companies.

Mine was a Rockwell.

The knives are 1/8" x 4".

Carefully measure the shaft and fit it with a 2", STEEL sheave.

Forget pot metal sheaves like Congress.

As I remember the shaft is an odd ball size.

I bought a blank sheave and had it machined to fit after beating a
couple of pot metal sheaves to crap.

1/3 HP is a tad small, 3/4 HP is more like it.

Have fun.

Lew

Sonny <[email protected]> wrote in news:47f2a5dd-adde-46b7-bdc8-
[email protected]:

>>One website (http://www.woodworkweb.com/The-Agony-of-Setting-Jointer-
>>Knives.html) suggested I could hone or sharpen the knives by installing
>>them close to the outfeed table height, and run the jointer backwards
>>against a stone set on the outfeed table. Has anyone ever tried this?
>
> My Powermatic manual states to run the head normally (forward, not
> backward) for a temporary resharpening (or touching-up of the blades'
> edges). I perform this technique often and it works fine for a quick
> fix for blades that are a bit dull. It doesn't work for blades that
> are severely dull or with knicks. To me, running it backwards would
> cause the edge (burr) to curl toward the infeed side, i.e., counter
> productive. Besides, how do you run the jointer backwards?

This jointer is belt driven, so reversing it is as simple as turning the
motor around.

> Take the blades off and sharpen them properly or, I would think 4"
> blades aren't that expensive, so get new blades and be done with it,
> if the present blades are in fairly bad shape.

Fortunately for me, they've just got a surface rust. Lots of good metal
underneath.

> Since the infeed table isn't very large, lay a pane of glass on it and
> see if it is, in fact, flat or not. It may be flat, but not coplanor
> with the outfeed table.

I've been checking with my combination square's ruler. It's not flat on
the outside near the blade guard, presumably due to rust. (There were a
couple spots there that started to flake.)

> Sonny
>

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> On 21 Jun 2010 06:05:34 GMT, Puckdropper
> <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote the following:
>
>>I found a 4" jointer in my Grandpa's attic, and it looked like a neat
>>tool. The bed is only about 24" in total, but with only 4" blades I'm
>>not expecting miracles.
>
> Those built many a set of dining, living, and bedroom furniture.
> For your use, build flat in/outfeed tables for it.
>
>
>>There's no identifying marks, but it looks to be a American Machine
>>and Tool 2432 (http://owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=8932) or
>>Sears # 149.21871 (It's got the green paint like the one here:
>>http://owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=1424 )
>>
>>I don't have a drive belt yet, but would a 1/3 horse motor be
>>sufficient to use it to joint some pine? It's an old sump pump motor,
>>so I'm not sure what speed it runs at.
>
> More is better, but that might work to try it. You'll probably have to
> feed the wood into it fairly slowly.

At the moment, it's all I've got. I can get a more powerful motor later,
but I don't even know if this machine would be worth investing more than
a couple bucks in.

>
>>The infeed table looks like the top is out of flat. How should I go
>>about trying to flatten it? Should I?
>
> If it's cupped or twisted, you'll either need to learn metal scraping
> or find a machinist who can grind it for you.
>

I might just leave that part of the infeed table alone then, and use the
rest. The surface rust at that point was worse than the others (maybe
because of the porkchop covering it?)

>>One website (http://www.woodworkweb.com/The-Agony-of-Setting-Jointer-
>>Knives.html) suggested I could hone or sharpen the knives by
>>installing them close to the outfeed table height, and run the jointer
>>backwards against a stone set on the outfeed table. Has anyone ever
>>tried this? (It seems like a dubious idea to me, but it would be easy
>>to do on this jointer.)
>
> You're kidding, aren't you, Pucky? Don't even think it. That would
> only end up rounding over the leading edge if anything. I think
> whoever wrote that had their tongue implanted firmly in cheek.

Admittedly, the guy was probably only removing a few thousandths to try
to get the blades set perfectly. Rounding over the edge did cross my
mind.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]
september.org:

> On 6/21/10 10:11 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>
>>> The infeed table looks like the top is out of flat. How should I go
>>> about trying to flatten it? Should I?
>>
>> If it's cupped or twisted, you'll either need to learn metal scraping
>> or find a machinist who can grind it for you.
>>
>
> I dealt with this awhile ago for my used 6" jointer bed.
> After calling around the local machine shops and passing out from
> sticker shock, I decided to get old school with it.
>
> Some rubber mallet blows took care of the course adjustments.
> Sand paper on a granite block took care of the fine adjustments.
> Then I lightly sanded to whole bed, down to a polish.
>
> Someone in here suggested hammering for cast iron.
> Thus stuff is remarkably pliable.
>
>

I could see that working out roughly. If I get it reasonably close, I
might be able to get a buddy with a milling machine to finish the last
little bit. It does look like the worst spot is off away from the fence,
so I may be able to work around it.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

Mike O. <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

>
> Check out the front page of this manual. I think this shows the
> method that used to be more commonplace.
> http://www.owwm.com/pubs/1141/880.pdf
> A few years later these instructions are no longer in the jointer
> manuals. I've never had the guts to try it.
>
> Mike O.

That would sure take the work out of resetting the jointer blades. This
old jointer doesn't have any method to adjust the blades up and down, just
two set screws that hold the blade in place. (I suspect newer jointers
would have some mechanism for fine adjusting blade height. Guess I'll have
to assemble the big one some time and find out.)

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> On 6/21/10 9:19 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>>
>> I could see that working out roughly. If I get it reasonably close,
>> I might be able to get a buddy with a milling machine to finish the
>> last little bit. It does look like the worst spot is off away from
>> the fence, so I may be able to work around it.
>>
>> Puckdropper
>
>
> There's really no sense in doing all that work, then letting a
> machinist do,
> anyway. If he's going to do it, let him do it all.
>
>

That does make sense... It depends on how far that section is out to
whether or not it's worth it. I'll have to go out with a straight edge
and take a really good look.

It is good to know it's fixable easily enough.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

"Puckdropper" wrote:

> That would sure take the work out of resetting the jointer blades.
> This
> old jointer doesn't have any method to adjust the blades up and
> down, just
> two set screws that hold the blade in place.
----------------------
That's why you use a magnetic gauge to set them.

You will also need a thin open end wrench to handle those set screws.

Think old time ignition wrenches if you go back that far.

DAMHIKT

Lew

Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

>
> Set perfectly but dulled beyond belief still doesn't get you a working
> jointer. Are you sure it wasn't a leg pulling?
>

Perhaps. Probably just a misremembering of the forward running with a
stone method. Anyway, that's why I asked here.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:4c204917$0$5527
[email protected]:


> That's why you use a magnetic gauge to set them.
>
> You will also need a thin open end wrench to handle those set screws.
>
> Think old time ignition wrenches if you go back that far.
>
> DAMHIKT
>
> Lew
>
>

Does the magnetic gauge hold the blades in place as well as hold itself
down to the table? The ones I've seen are basically a flat rod or the
like and movement of the jointer blades to touch the rod is up to the
user.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

"jo4hn" wrote:

> Take a look at Jointer Pal. It's a brand of magnetic knife holder.
> I have one and it works fine on my 8" Griz.
----------------------
Worked for me.

Lew

Dave Balderstone <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote in
news:220620101856473686%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca:

> I've got a similar one, here
>
> http://owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=1221
>
> There are no markings on the motor I have, and I doubt it's the
> original (although it could be). The owner manual specifies a 1/3 to
> 1/2 HP motor with a 4" pulley so that the cutting head is running at
> 3500 rpm.
>
> djb
>

Thanks for the info, Dave. One of these days I'll get a belt and try it
out. A 4" pulley might be a crucial piece of information.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

>> The owner manual specifies a 1/3 to
>> 1/2 HP motor with a 4" pulley so that the cutting head is running
>> at
>> 3500 rpm.
-------------------------------------
"Puckdropper" wrote:

> Thanks for the info, Dave. One of these days I'll get a belt and
> try it
> out. A 4" pulley might be a crucial piece of information.
-------------------------------
The motor will have a standard 5/8" shaft, thus a std 4" pot metal
sheave (Congress) will work nicely.

The same can't be said for the jointer.

Lew

Dave Balderstone <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote in
news:220620102327499433%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca:

> In article <[email protected]>, Lew Hodgett
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> The motor will have a standard 5/8" shaft, thus a std 4" pot metal
>> sheave (Congress) will work nicely.
>>
>> The same can't be said for the jointer.
>
> Indeed. I can measure the pulley on mine if desired. I also have a PDF
> of the manual, Puckdropper.
>

I may request a copy of the manual later, but don't think I'll need it
right off. Once I get it running, I may have more questions.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> writes:

> There's no identifying marks, but it looks to be a American Machine and
> Tool 2432 (http://owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=8932) or Sears #


I bought an AMT lathe in the 1970's. The list price was about $70.
That gives you some idea of the quality to expect.

The motor was extra. It needed tender care to use it, but it worked.

Alignment, vibration, step pulleys to adjust speeds, etc.

On 21 Jun 2010 06:05:34 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote the following:

>I found a 4" jointer in my Grandpa's attic, and it looked like a neat
>tool. The bed is only about 24" in total, but with only 4" blades I'm
>not expecting miracles.

Those built many a set of dining, living, and bedroom furniture.
For your use, build flat in/outfeed tables for it.


>There's no identifying marks, but it looks to be a American Machine and
>Tool 2432 (http://owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=8932) or Sears #
>149.21871 (It's got the green paint like the one here:
>http://owwm.com/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=1424 )
>
>I don't have a drive belt yet, but would a 1/3 horse motor be sufficient
>to use it to joint some pine? It's an old sump pump motor, so I'm not
>sure what speed it runs at.

More is better, but that might work to try it. You'll probably have to
feed the wood into it fairly slowly.


>The infeed table looks like the top is out of flat. How should I go
>about trying to flatten it? Should I?

If it's cupped or twisted, you'll either need to learn metal scraping
or find a machinist who can grind it for you.


>One website (http://www.woodworkweb.com/The-Agony-of-Setting-Jointer-
>Knives.html) suggested I could hone or sharpen the knives by installing
>them close to the outfeed table height, and run the jointer backwards
>against a stone set on the outfeed table. Has anyone ever tried this?
>(It seems like a dubious idea to me, but it would be easy to do on this
>jointer.)

You're kidding, aren't you, Pucky? Don't even think it. That would
only end up rounding over the leading edge if anything. I think
whoever wrote that had their tongue implanted firmly in cheek.

--
Peace of mind is that mental condition in which you have accepted the worst.
-- Lin Yutang

Puckdropper wrote:
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:4c204917$0$5527
> [email protected]:
>
>
>> That's why you use a magnetic gauge to set them.
>>
>> You will also need a thin open end wrench to handle those set screws.
>>
>> Think old time ignition wrenches if you go back that far.
>>
>> DAMHIKT
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
>
> Does the magnetic gauge hold the blades in place as well as hold itself
> down to the table? The ones I've seen are basically a flat rod or the
> like and movement of the jointer blades to touch the rod is up to the
> user.
>
> Puckdropper
Take a look at Jointer Pal. It's a brand of magnetic knife holder. I
have one and it works fine on my 8" Griz.
mahalo,
jo4hn

On 21 Jun 2010 06:05:34 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:

>One website (http://www.woodworkweb.com/The-Agony-of-Setting-Jointer-
>Knives.html) suggested I could hone or sharpen the knives by installing
>them close to the outfeed table height, and run the jointer backwards
>against a stone set on the outfeed table. Has anyone ever tried this?
>(It seems like a dubious idea to me, but it would be easy to do on this
>jointer.)
>
>Puckdropper

Check out the front page of this manual. I think this shows the
method that used to be more commonplace.
http://www.owwm.com/pubs/1141/880.pdf
A few years later these instructions are no longer in the jointer
manuals. I've never had the guts to try it.

Mike O.

On 6/21/10 6:07 AM, Sonny wrote:
>
> Since the infeed table isn't very large, lay a pane of glass on it and
> see if it is, in fact, flat or not. It may be flat, but not coplanor
> with the outfeed table.
>
> Sonny

I suggest using a straight edge for this and not glass.
Glass can not be trusted to be flat. Granite, maybe, but never glass.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 6/21/10 10:11 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>
>> The infeed table looks like the top is out of flat. How should I go
>> about trying to flatten it? Should I?
>
> If it's cupped or twisted, you'll either need to learn metal scraping
> or find a machinist who can grind it for you.
>

I dealt with this awhile ago for my used 6" jointer bed.
After calling around the local machine shops and passing out from
sticker shock, I decided to get old school with it.

Some rubber mallet blows took care of the course adjustments.
Sand paper on a granite block took care of the fine adjustments.
Then I lightly sanded to whole bed, down to a polish.

Someone in here suggested hammering for cast iron.
Thus stuff is remarkably pliable.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 6/21/10 9:19 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
>>>> The infeed table looks like the top is out of flat. How should I go
>>>> about trying to flatten it? Should I?
>>>
>>> If it's cupped or twisted, you'll either need to learn metal scraping
>>> or find a machinist who can grind it for you.
>>>
>>
>> I dealt with this awhile ago for my used 6" jointer bed.
>> After calling around the local machine shops and passing out from
>> sticker shock, I decided to get old school with it.
>>
>> Some rubber mallet blows took care of the course adjustments.
>> Sand paper on a granite block took care of the fine adjustments.
>> Then I lightly sanded to whole bed, down to a polish.
>>
>> Someone in here suggested hammering for cast iron.
>> Thus stuff is remarkably pliable.
>>
>>
>
> I could see that working out roughly. If I get it reasonably close, I
> might be able to get a buddy with a milling machine to finish the last
> little bit. It does look like the worst spot is off away from the fence,
> so I may be able to work around it.
>
> Puckdropper


There's really no sense in doing all that work, then letting a machinist
do,
anyway. If he's going to do it, let him do it all.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 6/22/10 9:54 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>> Some rubber mallet blows took care of the course adjustments.
>> Sand paper on a granite block took care of the fine adjustments.
>> Then I lightly sanded to whole bed, down to a polish.
>
> Course? What direction was its course? Oh, you meant "coarse" dincha?
> I'm guessing that a large part of that was just adjustment/settling, a
> minor part actual metal movement.
>

We call that a typo.


>
>> Someone in here suggested hammering for cast iron.
>> Thus stuff is remarkably pliable.
>
> If that's the case, it's grey iron, not cast. Cast is brittle and
> would shatter with hammer blows.
>

Cast is a process, correct? Not a type of metal, nor alloy.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 6/23/10 10:06 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>> We call that a typo.
>
> No, that was a thinko. He misthunk, just as if he'd put "there coats"
> instead of "their coats". The more people see it uncorrected, the more
> people do it.
>

You don't want to get into a grammar war with me, I assure you. :-)
Aren't you the guy who got into it with me over "none is" vs "none are?"
Maybe it was someone else.


>>>> Someone in here suggested hammering for cast iron.
>>>> Thus stuff is remarkably pliable.
>>>
>>> If that's the case, it's grey iron, not cast. Cast is brittle and
>>> would shatter with hammer blows.
>>>
>>
>> Cast is a process, correct? Not a type of metal, nor alloy.
>
> It's both. ;) Grey iron is malleable whereas cast isn't. Both are
> cast, though. Liken it to iron vs. steel. They work and machine
> entirely differently.
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gray_iron
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cast_iron
>

I was honestly asking about the difference.

I'm not questioning the veracity of that particular wiki page, however,
one must be careful when providing Wikipedia is a source. You own quote
applies, "The more people see it uncorrected, the more people (believe
it)."


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 10:45:08 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
> wrote the following:
>
>>On 6/23/10 10:06 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>> We call that a typo.
>>>
>>> No, that was a thinko. He misthunk, just as if he'd put "there coats"
>>> instead of "their coats". The more people see it uncorrected, the more
>>> people do it.
>>>
>>
>>You don't want to get into a grammar war with me, I assure you. :-)
>>Aren't you the guy who got into it with me over "none is" vs "none are?"
>>Maybe it was someone else.
>
> Guilty as charged. ;)
>

How did you live with the Shame?!

On 6/23/10 11:40 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 10:45:08 -0500, -MIKE-<[email protected]>
> wrote the following:
>
>> On 6/23/10 10:06 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>> We call that a typo.
>>>
>>> No, that was a thinko. He misthunk, just as if he'd put "there coats"
>>> instead of "their coats". The more people see it uncorrected, the more
>>> people do it.
>>>
>>
>> You don't want to get into a grammar war with me, I assure you. :-)
>> Aren't you the guy who got into it with me over "none is" vs "none are?"
>> Maybe it was someone else.
>
> Guilty as charged. ;)
>
>
>>>>>> Someone in here suggested hammering for cast iron.
>>>>>> Thus stuff is remarkably pliable.
>>>>>
>>>>> If that's the case, it's grey iron, not cast. Cast is brittle and
>>>>> would shatter with hammer blows.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Cast is a process, correct? Not a type of metal, nor alloy.
>>>
>>> It's both. ;) Grey iron is malleable whereas cast isn't. Both are
>>> cast, though. Liken it to iron vs. steel. They work and machine
>>> entirely differently.
>>>
>>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gray_iron
>>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cast_iron
>>>
>>
>> I was honestly asking about the difference.
>
> Wasn't I answering your questions with those links, Mike? That was
> the intent.
>

Yes. I tried and failed to make that clear. Sorry.


>> I'm not questioning the veracity of that particular wiki page, however,
>> one must be careful when providing Wikipedia is a source. You own quote
>> applies, "The more people see it uncorrected, the more people (believe
>> it)."
>
> Incorrect data on Wiki is usually corrected fairly quickly.<shrug>
>

I think we're on the same page. I was simply showing it as a modern
comparison to the saying you used. When wiki first came out, I spent so
much time correcting bad information that I got burned out on it. I'll
say it's come a long way and is kind of like webMD, I'd use it for
curiosity, but when I start crapping blood, I'm going to the doctor. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 11:22:45 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote the following:

>On 6/21/10 10:11 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>>
>>> The infeed table looks like the top is out of flat. How should I go
>>> about trying to flatten it? Should I?
>>
>> If it's cupped or twisted, you'll either need to learn metal scraping
>> or find a machinist who can grind it for you.
>>
>
>I dealt with this awhile ago for my used 6" jointer bed.
>After calling around the local machine shops and passing out from
>sticker shock, I decided to get old school with it.

Make friends over in the rec.crafts.metalworking forum. Someone who
lives near you might help you meet your metaldorking needs with a
trade for wooddorking, or simply do it for much cheaper than a machine
shop gouges.


>Some rubber mallet blows took care of the course adjustments.
>Sand paper on a granite block took care of the fine adjustments.
>Then I lightly sanded to whole bed, down to a polish.

Course? What direction was its course? Oh, you meant "coarse" dincha?
I'm guessing that a large part of that was just adjustment/settling, a
minor part actual metal movement.


>Someone in here suggested hammering for cast iron.
>Thus stuff is remarkably pliable.

If that's the case, it's grey iron, not cast. Cast is brittle and
would shatter with hammer blows.

--
Peace of mind is that mental condition in which you have accepted the worst.
-- Lin Yutang