I have a Ridgid "5.5" hp shop vac with a HEPA filter that does a good
job keeping the dust down. Kinda noisy though, and the HEPA plugs up
quickly when using the drum sander . . . I was thinking of buying the
Jet 2 micron DC at Woodcraft today (10% sale). While searching the
archives here, I see mention of using a paper filter in the shop vac
to intercept the fines, thus keeping the HEPA from plugging as
quickly. Maybe this is the economical way for me to go??
Question: Where does this paper bag/filter go? Do you fix it to the
intake vent inside the shop vac body?
Thanks!
Scott
"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Economical, sure, but you'll want to keep it clean. A doubled T-shirt
> would do about 75% of what you need. GI blanket would do probably 95%.
>
> Goes over the finer filter. Rubber band works pretty well.
>
> Save your ears and the TV reception and get the induction run DC.
>
Thanks for the replies guys. I ended up blowing $350 (less 10%) at
Woodcraft today for the pleated cannister-filtered Jet DC. Sucks like
the front end of an F-16 Falcon, but lots quieter. Anybody need a
shop vac?
;>)
Economical, sure, but you'll want to keep it clean. A doubled T-shirt
would do about 75% of what you need. GI blanket would do probably 95%.
Goes over the finer filter. Rubber band works pretty well.
Save your ears and the TV reception and get the induction run DC.
"Scott" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a Ridgid "5.5" hp shop vac with a HEPA filter that does a good
> job keeping the dust down. Kinda noisy though, and the HEPA plugs up
> quickly when using the drum sander . . . I was thinking of buying the
> Jet 2 micron DC at Woodcraft today (10% sale). While searching the
> archives here, I see mention of using a paper filter in the shop vac
> to intercept the fines, thus keeping the HEPA from plugging as
> quickly. Maybe this is the economical way for me to go??
>
> Question: Where does this paper bag/filter go? Do you fix it to the
> intake vent inside the shop vac body?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Scott
I tried the bags that cover the cylindrical filter years ago but gave up on
them since they tended to clog relatively easily as well and I didn't think
that they worked all that well. When I built the addition on my place and
was doing all the drywall finishing, I tried these bags that sit around the
inner perimeter of the shop vac container and fit over the hose entrance
inside (much like the way that most upright vacuum bags attach). With the
screen sander attached to hose, I could do all the drywall sanding in the
world and produce almost NO dust at all. Understanding that the bags fit the
entire circumference of the collection tub, there is a great amount of
surface area through which the blower draws a vacuum. Therein, I have not
noticed a marked increase in noise or degradation in perfomance as the bag
fills.
I use if for everything including drywall sanding, cleaning ash out of the
fireplace, woodworking, etc.
I have a Shop Vac brand vacuum and the bags are made by Shop Vac as well
however depending on your vac's size, you might be able to use them too.
OTOH, Rigid might make them specifically for their units. Check Home Depot.
Take care,
Jim
"Scott" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a Ridgid "5.5" hp shop vac with a HEPA filter that does a good
> job keeping the dust down. Kinda noisy though, and the HEPA plugs up
> quickly when using the drum sander . . . I was thinking of buying the
> Jet 2 micron DC at Woodcraft today (10% sale). While searching the
> archives here, I see mention of using a paper filter in the shop vac
> to intercept the fines, thus keeping the HEPA from plugging as
> quickly. Maybe this is the economical way for me to go??
>
> Question: Where does this paper bag/filter go? Do you fix it to the
> intake vent inside the shop vac body?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Scott
You do. Take it out to the garage to clean out the cars.
It's also wet/dry?
"Scott" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > Save your ears and the TV reception and get the induction run DC.
> >
>
> Thanks for the replies guys. I ended up blowing $350 (less 10%) at
> Woodcraft today for the pleated cannister-filtered Jet DC. Sucks like
> the front end of an F-16 Falcon, but lots quieter. Anybody need a
> shop vac?
>
> ;>)
HEPA? Yikes... that's gotta add a LOT of static pressure. FWIW, I'm currently
building a cyclone separator system using the plans on this website as a
starting point:
http://cnets.net/~eclectic/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm
I'll be using 6" duct and a 300 sq.ft. cartridge filter that's 99.99% efficient
at 0.5 micron from Wynn Environmental.
I recently moved into a house where the basement is the obvious shop space. My
old shop was in a two-car garage and fine dust wasn't so much of a problem,
because I did most of my work with the big door open and ran a huge fan to get
the dusty air out. Now, in the basement, that just won't work, and I've been up
to my waist in shavings and dust. To make matters worse, I recently got a new
double-drum sander that produces dust like I've never SEEN before!
Anyway, based on tests some fellows have done, mine will pull about 1700 CFM
through the whole system of 6" ducting that I'll run. I reckon that'll do it.
Joe
[email protected] (Scott) bellowed forth with this wisdom for all to hear:
> I have a Ridgid "5.5" hp shop vac with a HEPA filter that does a good
> job keeping the dust down. Kinda noisy though, and the HEPA plugs up
> quickly when using the drum sander . . . I was thinking of buying the
> Jet 2 micron DC at Woodcraft today (10% sale). While searching the
> archives here, I see mention of using a paper filter in the shop vac
> to intercept the fines, thus keeping the HEPA from plugging as
> quickly. Maybe this is the economical way for me to go??
>
> Question: Where does this paper bag/filter go? Do you fix it to the
> intake vent inside the shop vac body?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Scott