If I make a china cabinet with full inset drawers in the middle section
of the lower cabinet, flanked by overlay doors on either side, is that a
design faux pas? I've tried finding examples of mixing inset drawers
with overlay doors--no luck. Maybe that's because it's a bad idea.
Please don't say it's just a personal choice. :)
Dave
Tue, Nov 29, 2005, 1:42pm (EST-3) [email protected] (David) mumbled:
If I make a china cabinet with full inset drawers in the middle section
of the lower cabinet, flanked by overlay doors on either side, is that a
design faux pas? I've tried finding examples of mixing inset drawers
with overlay doors--no luck. Maybe that's because it's a bad idea.
Please don't say it's just a personal choice. :)
Sheesh. It's a no brainer. If that's what you want, make it, it's
your money, and it's a personal choice. Then if you don't like it, sell
it, or give it to someone you don't like. No prob.
JOAT
A rolling stone gathers no moss...unless it's a hobby he does on the
weekends.
WillR <[email protected]> wrote:
>David wrote:
>> If I make a china cabinet with full inset drawers in the middle section
>> of the lower cabinet, flanked by overlay doors on either side, is that a
>> design faux pas? I've tried finding examples of mixing inset drawers
>> with overlay doors--no luck. Maybe that's because it's a bad idea.
>> Please don't say it's just a personal choice. :)
>>
>> Dave
>
>When I picture it it doesn't seem right to me. I think it is the mixing
>of the styles.
I agree.
>Flush inset drawers make me think "modern" 20th century onwards. Overlay
>make me think "traditional" and country style.
Well, they create somewhat different associations for me (imagining a
Newport Chest with shell carvings on blockfront drawers that have a
lip overlaying the chest kinda turns the stomach<g>). I think of flush
(doors or drawers) as more "formal" or "fine furniture" and overlay
(doors or drawers) as more "informal", "rustic", "early American", or
"kitchen cabinet". But this is based on my own impressions, not any
design expertise. In any case, I think the mix would look odd.
Dave, you said you were going to try to do flush drawers to expand
your repertoire. Why not also do flush doors, assuming that flush fits
in with the rest of the style of the piece?
>My $.02 -- No cheques please... :-)
And now he has $.04. He'll soon be a rich man if none of us send a
bill for design services!.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
On Tue, 29 Nov 2005 13:42:01 -0800, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>If I make a china cabinet with full inset drawers in the middle section
>of the lower cabinet, flanked by overlay doors on either side, is that a
>design faux pas? I've tried finding examples of mixing inset drawers
>with overlay doors--no luck. Maybe that's because it's a bad idea.
>Please don't say it's just a personal choice. :)
Some think Picasso is a freakin' genius, and he put your eyeball on
the end of your nose. Apprentices used to make miniatures. Try your
hand with some doll's house furniture, then step back and take a look.
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If I make a china cabinet with full inset drawers in the middle section of
> the lower cabinet, flanked by overlay doors on either side, is that a
> design faux pas? I've tried finding examples of mixing inset drawers with
> overlay doors--no luck. Maybe that's because it's a bad idea. Please
> don't say it's just a personal choice. :)
>
> Dave
Disclaimer: I'm no design genius
That being said, I wouldn't do it. Save yourself the hassle of creating
that perfectly even gap around full inset drawer fronts and keep the
appearance of drawers and doors consistent.
my .02
jc
David wrote:
> WillR wrote:
>=20
>> David wrote:
>>
>>> If I make a china cabinet with full inset drawers in the middle=20
>>> section of the lower cabinet, flanked by overlay doors on either=20
>>> side, is that a design faux pas? I've tried finding examples of=20
>>> mixing inset drawers with overlay doors--no luck. Maybe that's=20
>>> because it's a bad idea. Please don't say it's just a personal=20
>>> choice. :)
>>>
>>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>> When I picture it it doesn't seem right to me. I think it is the=20
>> mixing of the styles.
>>
>> Flush inset drawers make me think "modern" 20th century onwards.=20
>> Overlay make me think "traditional" and country style.
>>
>> However -- will you "angle" the sides or install trim so that there is=
=20
>> a clear separation of styles? If the front is "flat" I don't think it =
>> will work visually.
>>
>> If it is a "modern" piece it has a possibility of working. If the=20
>> drawers in the sides and the drawer hardware is clearly modern style=20
>> it might work. imo
>>
>> If you have TurboCad or Autocad with at least Isometric and shading, I=
=20
>> would construct the piece and spin it around for a look.
>>
>> I just started working with CAD again (TurboCAD deluxe). It just saved=
=20
>> an expensive mistake on a reno... When swmbo viewed what she asked for=
=20
>> she agreed with me that her vision would not work -- so we went back=20
>> to my plan A.
>>
>> My $.02 -- No cheques please... :-)
>>
>>
> I haven't got a CAD program. =20
It is $169 at turbocad.com -- includes the 2D and 3D training videos.=20
Plan on 1 to 2 months of part time work on it to get real comfortable.=20
It is a great investment, If you have the time and the money
> If I had one, I'm not sure I'd know how to=20
> design with it.
I don't think that one does design with a CAD program -- not in the=20
visual sense. Rather it is a technical tool to allow you to express your =
ideas (designs) in a more concrete form. Then you can use it to look at=20
the 3D rendering and have a "sober second view" of your idea in a shaded =
3D rendering. With TurboCAD professional you can even put the wood grain =
on the material -- maybe even the deluxe.
CAD is a design tool in the sense that it will allow you to express your =
ideas quickly and coherently and then have exact dimensions with which=20
to construct the pieces for the finished work. Carefully used it can=20
prevent dimensioning errors and allow you to see how the joinery will wor=
k.
> It's gonna have fluted edges set at 45 degrees to the front and sides. =
> the center portion with the drawers will stick out about 1.5 inches.=20
> There will be a base molding that anchors the entire cabinet visually t=
o=20
> the floor--no feet.
Visual separation on the center cabinet -- That could work then. Might I =
suggest a consistent style of drawer front then...? Make them all the=20
same shape and keep all appearances the same. Then it will tie together=20
visually. For example -- all plain and simple squares or all with a=20
groove inset from the edges or all with the same applique etc...
Also if you are going to have a "conflict" in the styles, then I would=20
suggest plainer grain on the wood.
Of course these idea bring your bill to a total of $.04.
> I'm having a heck of a time with resolving the doors with the drawer=20
> fronts. Both style and inset vs overlay.
Where do you want the focus?
To me this idea would work best with a 3 door cabinet. The center might=20
look best if it is the same as the center drawers and the side doors in=20
the same style as the drawers below them. (Knife hinges will be=20
hidden... keep the look clean.) You could use Euro Hinges on the sides.
Since the front will be plainer in style and form, it could look odd=20
unless you draw the eye to the center. I suggest some simple (elegant)=20
inlay inset from the drawer and door edges -- with a slight contrast in=20
colour. Get one of those geometric styles -- triangles, rectangles and=20
such... You can buy this style of banding ready made.
Maybe I should ask for $.06 ...
Also, I think it would look best with the Golden Mean proportioning=20
1.62:1 The 1:2:3 proportioning might work as well. When you get to the=20
point where you are assigning proportions do some quick sketches and=20
fiddle with the elements. (Root two -- 1.41:1 -- might look too squat )
This is where a CAD program with constraints can be a real boon. Just=20
change the constraints and re-proportion the design. Then the CAD tool=20
is being used for design as opposed to "simply" expressing your design.
Hmm better make it $.08 if you use these ideas.
>=20
> Dave
--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If I make a china cabinet with full inset drawers in the middle section of
> the lower cabinet, flanked by overlay doors on either side, is that a
> design faux pas? I've tried finding examples of mixing inset drawers with
> overlay doors--no luck. Maybe that's because it's a bad idea. Please
> don't say it's just a personal choice. :)
>
> Dave
In set doors or drawers are not a problem as long as you make everything
square. I am in fact building a Long Arm sewing machine cabinet right now
and it has inset drawers in the middle between 6" wide front side panels
that have 18" wide inset drawers on each end of the cabinet. I square the
doors up on the TS after building them a bit over sized to fit the opening.
While squaring I tweak to fit.
IMHO It is easier to have drawer fronts, doors, and face frames all on
different planes. This looks cool and prevents you from having to have
every thing line up. :~)
David wrote:
> If I make a china cabinet with full inset drawers in the middle section=
=20
> of the lower cabinet, flanked by overlay doors on either side, is that =
a=20
> design faux pas? I've tried finding examples of mixing inset drawers=20
> with overlay doors--no luck. Maybe that's because it's a bad idea.=20
> Please don't say it's just a personal choice. :)
>=20
> Dave
When I picture it it doesn't seem right to me. I think it is the mixing=20
of the styles.
Flush inset drawers make me think "modern" 20th century onwards. Overlay =
make me think "traditional" and country style.
However -- will you "angle" the sides or install trim so that there is a =
clear separation of styles? If the front is "flat" I don't think it will =
work visually.
If it is a "modern" piece it has a possibility of working. If the=20
drawers in the sides and the drawer hardware is clearly modern style it=20
might work. imo
If you have TurboCad or Autocad with at least Isometric and shading, I=20
would construct the piece and spin it around for a look.
I just started working with CAD again (TurboCAD deluxe). It just saved=20
an expensive mistake on a reno... When swmbo viewed what she asked for=20
she agreed with me that her vision would not work -- so we went back to=20
my plan A.
My $.02 -- No cheques please... :-)
--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw
David <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> If I make a china cabinet with full inset drawers in the middle
> section of the lower cabinet, flanked by overlay doors on either side,
> is that a design faux pas? I've tried finding examples of mixing
> inset drawers with overlay doors--no luck. Maybe that's because it's
> a bad idea. Please don't say it's just a personal choice. :)
>
> Dave
I'm just finishing a doored book storage cabinet and am planning inset
doors, although I have been toying with lipped doors. I'm not sure
that I would mix and match though. On the other hand, there is nothing
wrong with being inovative.
I like to draw all of my designs in 3D CAD first to try out things like
this. Although it's not the same as the real thing, it does help
visuallize.
Why not dimension the overlay doors so that if you don't like the way
they look, you can shave off the overlay and convert them into matching
inset doors.
Good luck
-G
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
> Cool, I look forward to the pics and or the pdf files if you'll be so kind
> as to post them. I swore to myself I'd complete the drawings on Monday,
> and here it is Wed and no finished plans. I'm in procrastination mode,
> which I detest, so I'm stressed. <g>
>
> Dave
Because I do not sell my plans I do not complete them. The drawings give a
good idea of what the chest will look like but does not really give a good
idea of how the front drawers and side doors look and or fit into the chest.
The finished pictures will give a better example. I'll post the pdf's now
and the finished chest this weekend.
Leon wrote:
> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Leon wrote:
>>
>>
>>>"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>
>
>>like that style.
>>
>>Leon, have you got a pictures of what you've got so far on the sewing
>>machine cabinet you are making?
>
>
> I have ISO CAD that I can convert to PDF. Or, in 3 to 5 days I will have
> pictures. I am currently applying the finish, black and red stain and have
> every thing separated at the moment. Clear coats began today on the drawer
> fronts and doors which will reveal the natural Ash.
>
>
Cool, I look forward to the pics and or the pdf files if you'll be so
kind as to post them. I swore to myself I'd complete the drawings on
Monday, and here it is Wed and no finished plans. I'm in
procrastination mode, which I detest, so I'm stressed. <g>
Dave
Leon wrote:
> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>If I make a china cabinet with full inset drawers in the middle section of
>>the lower cabinet, flanked by overlay doors on either side, is that a
>>design faux pas? I've tried finding examples of mixing inset drawers with
>>overlay doors--no luck. Maybe that's because it's a bad idea. Please
>>don't say it's just a personal choice. :)
>>
>>Dave
>
>
> In set doors or drawers are not a problem as long as you make everything
> square. I am in fact building a Long Arm sewing machine cabinet right now
> and it has inset drawers in the middle between 6" wide front side panels
> that have 18" wide inset drawers on each end of the cabinet. I square the
> doors up on the TS after building them a bit over sized to fit the opening.
> While squaring I tweak to fit.
>
> IMHO It is easier to have drawer fronts, doors, and face frames all on
> different planes. This looks cool and prevents you from having to have
> every thing line up. :~)
>
>
My recent post mentioned my placing the center section with drawers
forward of the remainder of of the carcase. I've got a bedroom set that
has a triple dresser with a center section that juts out and I really
like that style.
Leon, have you got a pictures of what you've got so far on the sewing
machine cabinet you are making?
Dave
WillR wrote:
> David wrote:
>
>> If I make a china cabinet with full inset drawers in the middle
>> section of the lower cabinet, flanked by overlay doors on either side,
>> is that a design faux pas? I've tried finding examples of mixing
>> inset drawers with overlay doors--no luck. Maybe that's because it's
>> a bad idea. Please don't say it's just a personal choice. :)
>>
>> Dave
>
>
> When I picture it it doesn't seem right to me. I think it is the mixing
> of the styles.
>
> Flush inset drawers make me think "modern" 20th century onwards. Overlay
> make me think "traditional" and country style.
>
> However -- will you "angle" the sides or install trim so that there is a
> clear separation of styles? If the front is "flat" I don't think it will
> work visually.
>
> If it is a "modern" piece it has a possibility of working. If the
> drawers in the sides and the drawer hardware is clearly modern style it
> might work. imo
>
> If you have TurboCad or Autocad with at least Isometric and shading, I
> would construct the piece and spin it around for a look.
>
> I just started working with CAD again (TurboCAD deluxe). It just saved
> an expensive mistake on a reno... When swmbo viewed what she asked for
> she agreed with me that her vision would not work -- so we went back to
> my plan A.
>
> My $.02 -- No cheques please... :-)
>
>
I haven't got a CAD program. If I had one, I'm not sure I'd know how to
design with it.
It's gonna have fluted edges set at 45 degrees to the front and sides.
the center portion with the drawers will stick out about 1.5 inches.
There will be a base molding that anchors the entire cabinet visually to
the floor--no feet.
I'm having a heck of a time with resolving the doors with the drawer
fronts. Both style and inset vs overlay.
Dave
noonenparticular wrote:
> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>If I make a china cabinet with full inset drawers in the middle section of
>>the lower cabinet, flanked by overlay doors on either side, is that a
>>design faux pas? I've tried finding examples of mixing inset drawers with
>>overlay doors--no luck. Maybe that's because it's a bad idea. Please
>>don't say it's just a personal choice. :)
>>
>>Dave
>
>
> Disclaimer: I'm no design genius
>
> That being said, I wouldn't do it. Save yourself the hassle of creating
> that perfectly even gap around full inset drawer fronts and keep the
> appearance of drawers and doors consistent.
>
> my .02
>
> jc
>
>
I see your point about the hassle. I've never made full insert drawers.
I want to take my furniture building to the "next level". I just
might go bonkers in the process though. :)
Dave
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>
>> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
> like that style.
>
> Leon, have you got a pictures of what you've got so far on the sewing
> machine cabinet you are making?
I have ISO CAD that I can convert to PDF. Or, in 3 to 5 days I will have
pictures. I am currently applying the finish, black and red stain and have
every thing separated at the moment. Clear coats began today on the drawer
fronts and doors which will reveal the natural Ash.