howdy. i posted about an old unisaw a few weeks ago and since then
have made progress but ive come upon a snaffu. after replaceing the
armature bearings it seems that the blade does not retract fully below
the table insert. at 90 degrees the blade is only about an 1/8" below
the top and at a 45 degree bavel it protrudes above the top by approx.
an 1/8" is this normal for and old uni or have i blundered? i made an
0 clearance insert and found that i have to lower it into a spinning
blade to get the slot cut. any sugestions? skeez
On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 07:54:30 GMT, "Groggy" <[email protected]>
Crawled out of the shop and said. . .:
>Just to get the hole started, you could fit a smaller blade, cut the hole,
>then reinstall the original blade.
>
>Greg
>
and you would for sure be the man to know about HOLES
*G*
Traves
Just to get the hole started, you could fit a smaller blade, cut the hole,
then reinstall the original blade.
Greg
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> howdy. i posted about an old unisaw a few weeks ago and since then
> have made progress but ive come upon a snaffu. after replaceing the
> armature bearings it seems that the blade does not retract fully below
> the table insert. at 90 degrees the blade is only about an 1/8" below
> the top and at a 45 degree bavel it protrudes above the top by approx.
> an 1/8" is this normal for and old uni or have i blundered? i made an
> 0 clearance insert and found that i have to lower it into a spinning
> blade to get the slot cut. any sugestions? skeez
>
>
"Traves W. Coppock" <newsgroups-AT-farmvalleywoodworks-DOT-com> wrote in
message
> >
>
> and you would for sure be the man to know about HOLES
y'know Traves, there was a thread about raising benches for taller WW'ers,
ie, how to get them to a workable level. I had to restrain myself from
suggesting he dig a trench around each machine...
Greg
PS Hi to Dawn!
PSS Is that DELTA Dawn? Nice song btw.
On Thu, 09 Oct 2003 16:57:55 GMT, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> scribbled
>howdy. i posted about an old unisaw a few weeks ago and since then
>have made progress but ive come upon a snaffu. after replaceing the
>armature bearings it seems that the blade does not retract fully below
>the table insert. at 90 degrees the blade is only about an 1/8" below
>the top and at a 45 degree bavel it protrudes above the top by approx.
>an 1/8" is this normal for and old uni or have i blundered? i made an
>0 clearance insert and found that i have to lower it into a spinning
>blade to get the slot cut. any sugestions? skeez
>
Go to:
http://www.google.ca/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&frame=right&th=2aef24b14c18da2d&seekm=5dt0bv4qjrcrblkm4o29kg5o6url0ladci%404ax.com#link7
Where Wood Butcher suggests taping the new zero clearance insert with
double sided tape on top of the old insert, and them moving the saw
up.
Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" twice
in reply address for real email address
skeezics wrote:
>howdy. i posted about an old unisaw a few weeks ago and since then
>have made progress but ive come upon a snaffu. after replaceing the
>armature bearings it seems that the blade does not retract fully below
>the table insert. at 90 degrees the blade is only about an 1/8" below
>the top and at a 45 degree bavel it protrudes above the top by approx.
>an 1/8"
Did the blade ever fall below the table?
>is this normal for and old uni or have i blundered?
I have heard people have this trouble and in fact the blade
on my saw does sit proud of the table when fully retracted.
I should mention that whenever I lower the blade all the way
I back it up a eighth of a turn so it doesn't sit "locked"
in the fully retracted position.
>i made an 0 clearance insert and found that i have to lower it into a spinning
>blade to get the slot cut. any sugestions?
Use an 8" or 9" blade to start the insert.
Rout the back of the insert.
UA100
On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 11:51:10 GMT, "Groggy" <[email protected]>
Crawled out of the shop and said. . .:
>
>"Traves W. Coppock" <newsgroups-AT-farmvalleywoodworks-DOT-com> wrote in
>message
>> >
>>
>> and you would for sure be the man to know about HOLES
>
>y'know Traves, there was a thread about raising benches for taller WW'ers,
>ie, how to get them to a workable level. I had to restrain myself from
>suggesting he dig a trench around each machine...
>
ROFL
>Greg
>
>PS Hi to Dawn!
Hi to Greg from Dawn
>
>PSS Is that DELTA Dawn? Nice song btw.
That's her favorite song from when she was younger! lol
>
Traves, AND Dawn
Care to expand on reasoning? I do the same thing with water valves as
that enables two ways of rotation instead of one when it is time to
close the valve. Similar?
On Thu, 09 Oct 2003 21:38:20 GMT, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I should mention that whenever I lower the blade all the way
>I back it up a eighth of a turn so it doesn't sit "locked"
>in the fully retracted position.
On Thu, 09 Oct 2003 16:12:09 -0700, Fly-by-Night CC
<[email protected]> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>The 45 degree part is sorta puzzling. You're saying that when fully
>retracted and 90 deg, it's slightly below the table surface, but as you
>tilt it, it rises? Odd.
>
ayup. just went to recheck and definatly eyeballded an 8th inch above
the top at 45 degres fully lowered. i didnt think much of the 1/8" low
at 90 but when i set it up to rip a bevel i was puzzled. its right
tilt BTW. that may matter. or not.
>I haven't looked at the works of my Unisaw for quite a while, but I
>wonder if it'd be possible to place 1/8" or so spacers between the
>cabinet and the table to lift the surface away from the top of the
>blade. (The downside to this is that you'd, in effect, lose that same
>distance from the maximum cut capabilities.)
that would work i beleive but as you say you would lose maximum cutter
height. skeez
Bob Bowles wrote:
>Care to expand on reasoning? I do the same thing with water valves as
>that enables two ways of rotation instead of one when it is time to
>close the valve. Similar?
My arm chair injineering says that you can slam the blade
raising bracket pretty hard and even when you go to raise it
again right away it gets kinda stuck. I just figure I don't
want to come back in a day/week/month and find it locked up.
And there have been instances of such reported here in the
past.
UA100
In article <[email protected]>,
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> at 90 degrees the blade is only about an 1/8" below
> the top and at a 45 degree bavel it protrudes above the top by approx.
> an 1/8" is this normal for and old uni or have i blundered? i made an
> 0 clearance insert and found that i have to lower it into a spinning
> blade to get the slot cut. any sugestions?
Except for the 45 deg. angle part, that's pretty much just like the
newer Unisaw's too. You have to start the zero clearance cut with a
smaller blade or lower it onto the spinning blade (using the fence for
guidance).
The 45 degree part is sorta puzzling. You're saying that when fully
retracted and 90 deg, it's slightly below the table surface, but as you
tilt it, it rises? Odd.
I haven't looked at the works of my Unisaw for quite a while, but I
wonder if it'd be possible to place 1/8" or so spacers between the
cabinet and the table to lift the surface away from the top of the
blade. (The downside to this is that you'd, in effect, lose that same
distance from the maximum cut capabilities.)
--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design.
<http://www.flybynightcoppercompany.com>
<http://www.easystreet.com/~onlnlowe/index.html>
On Thu, 09 Oct 2003 16:57:55 GMT, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
thanx all. i realy didnt see any way to change the setting but i wasnt
sure. i just assumed the blade would lower further than that. BTW this
thing is a real jewel compared the the old benchtop POS i been using.
SWMBO says i may get a beismier fence for christmas. hmmmmmmm....
sounds like i may have somthing to gloat about if she dont back out!
skeez
[email protected] wrote:
> i made an
> 0 clearance insert and found that i have to lower it into a spinning
> blade to get the slot cut. any sugestions? skeez
I bought one of these zero-clearance inserts.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=H0627
It gets around this problem by having a deep, wide slot for the blade on the
bottom. The blade only has to poke through about 1/4" to 1/8".
Another solution I read somewhere is to use one 8" dado blade.
-- Mark