I seem to remember hearing that a low cost substitute for wood filler is dry
wall "mud". Anybody ever hear of this and is mud different that tape joint
compound? I believe you can add either acrylic (oil) or water based
pigments to turn it into a replacement for filler.
When I say filler, I am referring to filling in the grain on open pore woods
such as mahogany or oak to achieve an ultra smooth finish. I believe the
filler goes on after the staining and sealing processes are complete, but I
have to go back to the books to check this out. Any recommendations on
books?
I'm building a coffee table out of mahogany ($$$) and want it to look great
when finished.
TIA
Dustmaker
Take a look at the Mc Feeley catalog and the Crystalac clear pore filler and
save yourself a few headaches.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Dustmaker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I seem to remember hearing that a low cost substitute for wood filler is
dry
> wall "mud". Anybody ever hear of this and is mud different that tape
joint
> compound? I believe you can add either acrylic (oil) or water based
> pigments to turn it into a replacement for filler.
>
> When I say filler, I am referring to filling in the grain on open pore
woods
> such as mahogany or oak to achieve an ultra smooth finish. I believe the
> filler goes on after the staining and sealing processes are complete, but
I
> have to go back to the books to check this out. Any recommendations on
> books?
>
> I'm building a coffee table out of mahogany ($$$) and want it to look
great
> when finished.
>
> TIA
>
> Dustmaker
>
>
You're building a coffee table out of mahogany ($$$) and want it to look
great
and are trying to save a dollar on filler?
Mud shrinks more than good wood fillers.
"Dustmaker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I seem to remember hearing that a low cost substitute for wood filler is
dry
> wall "mud". Anybody ever hear of this and is mud different that tape
joint
> compound? I believe you can add either acrylic (oil) or water based
> pigments to turn it into a replacement for filler.
>
> When I say filler, I am referring to filling in the grain on open pore
woods
> such as mahogany or oak to achieve an ultra smooth finish. I believe the
> filler goes on after the staining and sealing processes are complete, but
I
> have to go back to the books to check this out. Any recommendations on
> books?
>
> I'm building a coffee table out of mahogany ($$$) and want it to look
great
> when finished.
>
> TIA
>
> Dustmaker
>
>
You're right! I'll experiment later with the wood filler on some Oak
plywood.
I'll order some of the right stuff from one of the more highly regarded
suppliers.
Dustmaker
"ddinc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You're building a coffee table out of mahogany ($$$) and want it to look
> great
> and are trying to save a dollar on filler?
>
> Mud shrinks more than good wood fillers.
The voices in the head of "Dustmaker" <[email protected]> caused
Dustmaker to write in news:[email protected]:
> I seem to remember hearing that a low cost substitute for wood filler
> is dry wall "mud". Anybody ever hear of this and is mud different
> that tape joint compound? I believe you can add either acrylic (oil)
> or water based pigments to turn it into a replacement for filler.
There are several compounds for drywall;
jointing
finishing
interior
exterior
adherance,
to name a few.
You'd need to check the specs of the packet in consideration. I've used
it to fill holes in my sister's house - hardwood exterior and it has been
there for around 6 years with no noticeable deterioration. My carpenter
friend says it can be used but not on the exterior since it tends to
crack with expansion etc. I was pretty fussy with preparation and
painting so that might account for the longevity.
--
This sig free text brought to you by the letters s, i & g
On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 14:37:56 -0600, "Dustmaker"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I seem to remember hearing that a low cost substitute for wood filler is dry
>wall "mud". Anybody ever hear of this and is mud different that tape joint
>compound? I believe you can add either acrylic (oil) or water based
>pigments to turn it into a replacement for filler.
>
I have taken drywall mud, and mixed it with acrylic paint (water
based) to fill the grain on woods that I was going to paint. Paint it
onto the wood, sand smooth (it will sand very smooth), then paint for
a great finish. Not sure if I'd be brave enough to use it on a
hardwood that I was not painting.