sawdustmaker <[email protected]> writes:
>SWMBO wants a wood frame around the mirror in the bathroom (hints -- humid
>& moist). My first thoughts are contact cement, construction adhesive
>(liquid nails), or maybe some type of super glue. What kind of adhesive
>would y'all recommend?
I'd rebate the inside of the frame and use pins or glazing points
to hold the mirror in place.
On Tuesday, July 12, 2016 at 7:24:16 PM UTC-7, sawdustmaker wrote:
> SWMBO wants a wood frame around the mirror in the bathroom (hints -- humid
> & moist). My first thoughts are contact cement, construction adhesive
> (liquid nails), or maybe some type of super glue. What kind of adhesive
> would y'all recommend?
Why not DAP 33 glazing compound, just like an exterior window?
On Tuesday, July 12, 2016 at 9:24:16 PM UTC-5, sawdustmaker wrote:
> SWMBO wants a wood frame around the mirror in the bathroom (hints -- humid
> & moist). My first thoughts are contact cement, construction adhesive
> (liquid nails), or maybe some type of super glue. What kind of adhesive
> would y'all recommend?
100% Silicone caulk would be my choice.
sawdustmaker <[email protected]> wrote:
> SWMBO wants a wood frame around the mirror in the bathroom (hints -- humid
> & moist). My first thoughts are contact cement, construction adhesive
> (liquid nails), or maybe some type of super glue. What kind of adhesive
> would y'all recommend?
>
I used, on two mirrors, automotive style double sided attachment tape made
by 3M. This tape is used to attach body side moldings on vehicles. So it
is weather proof, thin but gap filling, and applied like double sided tape.
Still working fine 10 years later.
On Thursday, July 14, 2016 at 7:22:23 PM UTC-5, sawdustmaker wrote:
> [email protected] wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
> > On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 20:01:44 +0000 (UTC), Eli the Bearded
> > <*@eli.users.panix.com> wrote:
> >
> >>In rec.woodworking, Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>> On Tuesday, July 12, 2016 at 9:24:16 PM UTC-5, sawdustmaker wrote:
> >>> > SWMBO wants a wood frame around the mirror in the bathroom (hints
> >>> > -- humid & moist). My first thoughts are contact cement,
> >>> > construction adhesive (liquid nails), or maybe some type of super
> >>> > glue. What kind of adhesive would y'all recommend?
> >>> 100% Silicone caulk would be my choice.
> >>
> >>I used aquarium tank silicone glue for a similar purpose years ago and
> >>never had issues with it. (I was gluing wood trim to the outside of an
> >>aquarium tank.)
> >
> > Isn't that the same thing (100% silicone caulk)? The stuff with
> > acetic acid is better but I don't know if it's available anymore. I'm
> > allergic to it so haven't looked *for* it. ;-)
> >>
> >>Not too pretty from the inside, but if you can't see that it's not a
> >>big deal.
> >>
> >>Elijah
> >>------
> >>only used the tank for a couple of years
> >
>
> Thanks for all the ideas. Super glue seems to have worked (so far :) )
Glad it works...it would not even enter my consideration for wood! *J*
Keith Nuttle <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Yes to the above, but cut a rabbit into the trim
rabbet - a groove cut in the edge of a piece of material.
rabbit - small furry critter with long ears.
rarebit - melted cheese on toast.
John
[email protected] wrote in news:[email protected]:
> On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 20:01:44 +0000 (UTC), Eli the Bearded
> <*@eli.users.panix.com> wrote:
>
>>In rec.woodworking, Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> On Tuesday, July 12, 2016 at 9:24:16 PM UTC-5, sawdustmaker wrote:
>>> > SWMBO wants a wood frame around the mirror in the bathroom (hints
>>> > -- humid & moist). My first thoughts are contact cement,
>>> > construction adhesive (liquid nails), or maybe some type of super
>>> > glue. What kind of adhesive would y'all recommend?
>>> 100% Silicone caulk would be my choice.
>>
>>I used aquarium tank silicone glue for a similar purpose years ago and
>>never had issues with it. (I was gluing wood trim to the outside of an
>>aquarium tank.)
>
> Isn't that the same thing (100% silicone caulk)? The stuff with
> acetic acid is better but I don't know if it's available anymore. I'm
> allergic to it so haven't looked *for* it. ;-)
>>
>>Not too pretty from the inside, but if you can't see that it's not a
>>big deal.
>>
>>Elijah
>>------
>>only used the tank for a couple of years
>
Thanks for all the ideas. Super glue seems to have worked (so far :) )
On 7/13/2016 6:48 AM, Leon wrote:
> sawdustmaker <[email protected]> wrote:
>> SWMBO wants a wood frame around the mirror in the bathroom (hints -- humid
>> & moist). My first thoughts are contact cement, construction adhesive
>> (liquid nails), or maybe some type of super glue. What kind of adhesive
>> would y'all recommend?
>>
>
> I used, on two mirrors, automotive style double sided attachment tape made
> by 3M. This tape is used to attach body side moldings on vehicles. So it
> is weather proof, thin but gap filling, and applied like double sided tape.
> Still working fine 10 years later.
>
Actually to add to the above, I attached the frame on top of the mirror.
On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 20:01:44 +0000 (UTC), Eli the Bearded
<*@eli.users.panix.com> wrote:
>In rec.woodworking, Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Tuesday, July 12, 2016 at 9:24:16 PM UTC-5, sawdustmaker wrote:
>> > SWMBO wants a wood frame around the mirror in the bathroom (hints -- humid
>> > & moist). My first thoughts are contact cement, construction adhesive
>> > (liquid nails), or maybe some type of super glue. What kind of adhesive
>> > would y'all recommend?
>> 100% Silicone caulk would be my choice.
>
>I used aquarium tank silicone glue for a similar purpose years ago and
>never had issues with it. (I was gluing wood trim to the outside of an
>aquarium tank.)
Isn't that the same thing (100% silicone caulk)? The stuff with
acetic acid is better but I don't know if it's available anymore. I'm
allergic to it so haven't looked *for* it. ;-)
>
>Not too pretty from the inside, but if you can't see that it's not a big
>deal.
>
>Elijah
>------
>only used the tank for a couple of years
In rec.woodworking, Bob Villa <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Tuesday, July 12, 2016 at 9:24:16 PM UTC-5, sawdustmaker wrote:
> > SWMBO wants a wood frame around the mirror in the bathroom (hints -- humid
> > & moist). My first thoughts are contact cement, construction adhesive
> > (liquid nails), or maybe some type of super glue. What kind of adhesive
> > would y'all recommend?
> 100% Silicone caulk would be my choice.
I used aquarium tank silicone glue for a similar purpose years ago and
never had issues with it. (I was gluing wood trim to the outside of an
aquarium tank.)
Not too pretty from the inside, but if you can't see that it's not a big
deal.
Elijah
------
only used the tank for a couple of years
On 7/12/16 9:24 PM, sawdustmaker wrote:
> SWMBO wants a wood frame around the mirror in the bathroom (hints --
> humid & moist). My first thoughts are contact cement, construction
> adhesive (liquid nails), or maybe some type of super glue. What kind
> of adhesive would y'all recommend?
>
Silicone caulk will adhere to glass, but best to read the directions on
the tube of the many different sealants to see which is best.
The local glass shop I use recommends Lexel caulk. It is really
superior for glass.
http://www.sashco.com/products/lexel/
Having said that, I just "picture framed" two very large bathroom
mirrors in a luxury home using some very fancy trim molding. I went
into the job thinking the same thing as you, "how do I adhere the wood
to the glass?"
My answer: "You don't." The mirror is on the wall, so I used trim nails
to attach the molding to the wall, not the glass. It worked great. The
molding sat about 2/3 on the perimeter of the mirror and 1/3 off the
edge of the mirror, over the wall. I shot nails into the wall, careful
to make sure I was clear of the glass mirror.
Three tips...
1. Use a shim the thickness of the glass when shooting the nail or
they'll try to pull the trim against the wall. The shim doesn't have to
stay there, it just has to keep the molding from pulling towards the wall.
2. Make sure whatever molding you're using is stained/painted on the
back, the same as on the front/sides. The mirror will reflect the back
side of the molding and you'll see if it's no finished-- it's stick out
like a sore thumb.
3. If possible, assemble and glue the "frame" together on the floor or
work surface, then apply it to the mirror/wall as one piece. I used CA
glue on the miters to make the job quick.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 7/13/2016 12:54 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 7/12/16 9:24 PM, sawdustmaker wrote:
>> SWMBO wants a wood frame around the mirror in the bathroom (hints --
>> humid & moist). My first thoughts are contact cement, construction
>> adhesive (liquid nails), or maybe some type of super glue. What kind
>> of adhesive would y'all recommend?
>>
>
> Silicone caulk will adhere to glass, but best to read the directions on
> the tube of the many different sealants to see which is best.
> The local glass shop I use recommends Lexel caulk. It is really
> superior for glass.
> http://www.sashco.com/products/lexel/
>
> Having said that, I just "picture framed" two very large bathroom
> mirrors in a luxury home using some very fancy trim molding. I went
> into the job thinking the same thing as you, "how do I adhere the wood
> to the glass?"
>
> My answer: "You don't." The mirror is on the wall, so I used trim nails
> to attach the molding to the wall, not the glass. It worked great. The
> molding sat about 2/3 on the perimeter of the mirror and 1/3 off the
> edge of the mirror, over the wall. I shot nails into the wall, careful
> to make sure I was clear of the glass mirror.
>
> Three tips...
> 1. Use a shim the thickness of the glass when shooting the nail or
> they'll try to pull the trim against the wall. The shim doesn't have to
> stay there, it just has to keep the molding from pulling towards the wall.
> 2. Make sure whatever molding you're using is stained/painted on the
> back, the same as on the front/sides. The mirror will reflect the back
> side of the molding and you'll see if it's no finished-- it's stick out
> like a sore thumb.
> 3. If possible, assemble and glue the "frame" together on the floor or
> work surface, then apply it to the mirror/wall as one piece. I used CA
> glue on the miters to make the job quick.
>
>
Yes to the above, but cut a rabbit into the trim so that it does not
pull the mirror to the wall, so you do not need shims.
Alternatively "frame" the mirror in one of the wide thin boards, I
believe they are 3/8 X 2, then cut the trim so the edge aligns with the
putter edge of the thin board and overlapping the mirror. I would glue
the trim to the thin board.
On 7/13/16 6:39 AM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
> On 7/13/2016 12:54 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> 1. Use a shim the thickness of the glass when shooting the nail
>> or they'll try to pull the trim against the wall. The shim doesn't
>> have to stay there, it just has to keep the molding from pulling
>> towards the wall.
.......
>>
> Yes to the above, but cut a rabbit into the trim so that it does not
> pull the mirror to the wall, so you do not need shims.
>
I considered cutting a rabbet in the back, but didn't do it for a couple
reasons. The mirrors were very close to the corners of the wall which
weren't very "square" at the sheetrock seems. I didn't want to push the
corners and tear the tape in the corners above the mirrors. When the
trim was assembled as one piece, I figured at that point it's a
decorative fixture that is merely for show and didn't need belt as
suspenders.
Just to clarify, you only need one shim to hold the trim away from the
wall as you nail it. You place it near each nail as you shoot it, then
move to the next.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 7/13/16 9:17 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 7/13/2016 6:48 AM, Leon wrote:
>> sawdustmaker <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> SWMBO wants a wood frame around the mirror in the bathroom (hints --
>>> humid
>>> & moist). My first thoughts are contact cement, construction adhesive
>>> (liquid nails), or maybe some type of super glue. What kind of adhesive
>>> would y'all recommend?
>>>
>>
>> I used, on two mirrors, automotive style double sided attachment tape
>> made
>> by 3M. This tape is used to attach body side moldings on vehicles.
>> So it
>> is weather proof, thin but gap filling, and applied like double sided
>> tape.
>> Still working fine 10 years later.
>>
> Actually to add to the above, I attached the frame on top of the mirror.
I'm going to tuck that tip away for the future.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 7/13/16 8:15 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> sawdustmaker <[email protected]> writes:
>> SWMBO wants a wood frame around the mirror in the bathroom (hints -- humid
>> & moist). My first thoughts are contact cement, construction adhesive
>> (liquid nails), or maybe some type of super glue. What kind of adhesive
>> would y'all recommend?
>
> I'd rebate the inside of the frame and use pins or glazing points
> to hold the mirror in place.
>
I'm guessing the mirror is already adhered to the wall.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
-MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>On 7/13/16 8:15 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>> sawdustmaker <[email protected]> writes:
>>> SWMBO wants a wood frame around the mirror in the bathroom (hints -- humid
>>> & moist). My first thoughts are contact cement, construction adhesive
>>> (liquid nails), or maybe some type of super glue. What kind of adhesive
>>> would y'all recommend?
>>
>> I'd rebate the inside of the frame and use pins or glazing points
>> to hold the mirror in place.
>>
>
>I'm guessing the mirror is already adhered to the wall.
>
A wide taping knife worked to remove the bathroom mirror that I framed
(which was adhered with construction adhesive), but point taken.