I just purchased my first real woodworking tool (at least with
woodworkign in mind), a table saw. For basic cuts, is it better to cut
on the left or right side of the blade? I wouldn't think it would
matter but the saws measuring guide is longer on the left and my
instinct is to cut with the main part of the stock on the right.
Also, I'm using an old Craftsman router my dad lent me. I'm trying to
cut a rabbit joint with it. I was told to cut from left to right but it
splinters the side of the board at the edge so I began cutting/routing
in from the outside of the edge to the inside to prevent the
splintering. Then I ended up rounding off the corners of the rabbit
joint where I was coming in from. (I hope this makes sense). Short of
using a router table and guide, is there a way to prevent the rounding?
I thought of putting scrap wood next to it which may be the answer but
it's one more piece of wood I have to clamp down.
Last one for tonight.... How do you make a perpindicular cut with a TS?
I used a square to make a 90 degree mark but I know you shouldn't free
cut with a TS, so how do I get the TS to follow the line? (the other
side of the board is just enough of a bad angle to put the other side off.
I'm taking a local woodworking Tech class next month and should probably
just wait, but I'm not that patient.
Richard
In article <8saNc.49616$ve2.38156@okepread05>, Richard A.
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Thanks for all the answers. That's one of the many things I love about
> the net. It really seems to shorten the learning curve. I'll take the
> advice given here and go ahead with building a sled. I've heard the
> part about not using the rip fence and miter at the same time. Now that
> I've heard it repeatedly, I intend to remember the advice.
>
> I've read a lot on safety and seen some of the pictures posted here to
> inspire people to keep paying attention. I intend to maintain a healthy
> fear of the TS and other wood tools.
>
> Richard
Richard, Riobi has a forum for BT3K owners that's really useful:
http://www.ryobitools.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=list&forum=DCFo
rumID24&conf=DCConfID1
There's also an independent site that has lots of BT3K info:
http://www.bt3central.com/default.asp
Good luck and have fun!
Vince Heuring
--
Vince Heuring To email, remove the Vince.
In article <260720041202425939%[email protected]>, Vince
Heuring <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <8saNc.49616$ve2.38156@okepread05>, Richard A.
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Thanks for all the answers. That's one of the many things I love about
> > the net. It really seems to shorten the learning curve. I'll take the
> > advice given here and go ahead with building a sled. I've heard the
> > part about not using the rip fence and miter at the same time. Now that
> > I've heard it repeatedly, I intend to remember the advice.
> >
> > I've read a lot on safety and seen some of the pictures posted here to
> > inspire people to keep paying attention. I intend to maintain a healthy
> > fear of the TS and other wood tools.
> >
> > Richard
>
> Richard, Riobi has a forum for BT3K owners that's really useful:
> http://www.ryobitools.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=list&forum=DCFo
> rumID24&conf=DCConfID1
Bad mailer, bad mailer. Let's make that http://tinyurl.com/3jg64
> There's also an independent site that has lots of BT3K info:
> http://www.bt3central.com/default.asp
>
> Good luck and have fun!
>
> Vince Heuring
Use push sticks, the splitter, and eyewear. Stand to the side, never
directly behind the piece you are cutting. Did I mention to use push
sticks?
Yes, I am part of the 9 (actually 9 3/4) finger club... it happens VERY
fast!!!
One more thing, don't forget the push stick.
--
-Jim
©¿©¬
If you want to reply by email its --> ryan at jimryan dot com
Please use BCC and lets all avoid spam
"Richard A." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:nmaNc.49615$ve2.10277@okepread05...
> [email protected] wrote:
> > On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 22:20:01 -0500, "Richard A."
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >
> >>I was refering to the scale on the rail (like I said, I'm a rookie).
> >>The scale to the right of the blade is shorter than the left. The TS
> >>blade I set to 0". The fence I have placed on the right side but it can
> >>be moved to the left side. My question came up when I was trimming some
> >>of the end of a 24" board and the fence couldn't go far enough to my
> >>right to use it as a guide. I ended up moving the sliding table and
> >>rail over to the right more. Now the scale is off but I assume that if
> >>they didn't want me to move it, it wouldn't be movable.
> >
> >
> > hey, is that a ryobi table saw?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>...... After reading my response I realized that my problem is that I
> >>shouldn't have been using the fence and should have used the miter
> >>instead. It would have been more stable, obviously. Smack. (sound of
> >>palm hitting forhead)
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> >>
> >>>"Richard A." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>I wouldn't think it would
> >>>>matter but the saws measuring guide is longer on the left and my
> >>>>instinct is to cut with the main part of the stock on the right.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>I'm confused. The measuring guide is longer on the left? The fence is
> >>>usually on the right side of the blade and the material is guided along
the
> >>>fence. The scale on the rail is set to measure the distance from the
fence
> >>>to the right edge of the blade.
> >>>
> >>>Quick tip: Never u se the fence and the miter at the same time. Use
a
> >>>push stick for narrow pices of wood. By narrow, anything less than
four or
> >>>five inches, I reach for the stick and not ue=se my hand that close to
the
> >>>blade.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>Then I ended up rounding off the corners of the rabbit
> >>>>joint where I was coming in from. (I hope this makes sense). Short
of
> >>>>using a router table and guide, is there a way to prevent the
rounding?
> >>>> I thought of putting scrap wood next to it which may be the answer
but
> >>>>it's one more piece of wood I have to clamp down.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>The scrap wood works well, It is possible to cut from right to left
for
> >>>just a 1/4" or so and then start at the left side. That little bit of
> >>>climb cutting is just enough. You have to do it very slowly.
Eventually
> >>>you'll find a router table is very hand for that type of cut.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>Last one for tonight.... How do you make a perpindicular cut with a
TS?
> >>>> I used a square to make a 90 degree mark but I know you shouldn't
free
> >>>>cut with a TS, so how do I get the TS to follow the line? (the other
> >>>>side of the board is just enough of a bad angle to put the other side
off.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>Make a sled. Attach the board you want to cut straigh and attach it
> >>>temporarily to another board that is straight and use that one to
follow
> >>>along the fence. Once you have one straight edge you can reverse the
board
> >>>and cut off the irreglular edge.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>I'm taking a local woodworking Tech class next month and should
probably
> >>>>just wait, but I'm not that patient.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>If you want to do good woodworking, you will learn patience. Be sure
to
> >>>read and follow the manufacturers instructions and to wear safety
glasses.
> >>>Just like Norm. Seriously, that blade can do a lot of damage in
> >>>milliseconds. Use care and learn to use the saw properly.
> >>>Ed
> >>>[email protected]
> >>>http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
> >>>
> >>>
> >
> >
> Yes, it is a Ryobi BT3100. I don't know anything about TS's that I
> didn't read online or in a book but I feel like I made a good purchase,
> so far anyhow.
>
> It looks like I'll be making a sled as soon as I finish a featherboard.
> Thanks for the tips on safety also. When hearing that I bought a TS
> the guys at work replied, "so, you decided to join the nine finger
> club?". Apparently there are more than a few members already. I'm not
> in that big a hurry to join.
>
> Rich
"Richard A." <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<mKZMc.47207$ve2.38903@okepread05>...
> I just purchased my first real woodworking tool (at least with
> woodworkign in mind), a table saw. For basic cuts, is it better to cut
> on the left or right side of the blade? I wouldn't think it would
> matter but the saws measuring guide is longer on the left and my
> instinct is to cut with the main part of the stock on the right.
>
> Also, I'm using an old Craftsman router my dad lent me. I'm trying to
> cut a rabbit joint with it. I was told to cut from left to right but it
> splinters the side of the board at the edge so I began cutting/routing
> in from the outside of the edge to the inside to prevent the
> splintering. Then I ended up rounding off the corners of the rabbit
> joint where I was coming in from. (I hope this makes sense). Short of
> using a router table and guide, is there a way to prevent the rounding?
> I thought of putting scrap wood next to it which may be the answer but
> it's one more piece of wood I have to clamp down.
>
> Last one for tonight.... How do you make a perpindicular cut with a TS?
> I used a square to make a 90 degree mark but I know you shouldn't free
> cut with a TS, so how do I get the TS to follow the line? (the other
> side of the board is just enough of a bad angle to put the other side off.
>
> I'm taking a local woodworking Tech class next month and should probably
> just wait, but I'm not that patient.
>
> Richard
One of the responses recommended that you make a sled. I can really
agree with that. I had read many articles about sleds and it sounded
interesting but I never wanted to take the time to make one because it
would slow me down. Finally I took the time and made a nice sled and
boy did I kick myself. I should have made one years before. Any time
you get a board of any size and try to cross cut it just using the
miter, you will get very frustrated because it is really hard to hold
it square. The sled allows you to hold a large board nice and square.
It is well worth the time and effort to make one.
Also, I echo the advice another gentleman gave. Never, never use a
miter and a rip fence at the same time. Very dangerous. Also, learn
what kickback is and understand and respect it. Saftey is very
important. Not exciting to talk about, but if you want to do
woodworking for a long time, you will need all your appendages and
internal organs.
George
Well, unless you're making repeated length cutoffs, where the touch gage is
clamped to the fence.
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Quick tip: Never u se the fence and the miter at the same time.
On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 22:20:01 -0500, "Richard A."
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I was refering to the scale on the rail (like I said, I'm a rookie).
>The scale to the right of the blade is shorter than the left. The TS
>blade I set to 0". The fence I have placed on the right side but it can
>be moved to the left side. My question came up when I was trimming some
>of the end of a 24" board and the fence couldn't go far enough to my
>right to use it as a guide. I ended up moving the sliding table and
>rail over to the right more. Now the scale is off but I assume that if
>they didn't want me to move it, it wouldn't be movable.
hey, is that a ryobi table saw?
>
>...... After reading my response I realized that my problem is that I
>shouldn't have been using the fence and should have used the miter
>instead. It would have been more stable, obviously. Smack. (sound of
>palm hitting forhead)
>
>
>
>Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
>> "Richard A." <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>>
>>>I wouldn't think it would
>>>matter but the saws measuring guide is longer on the left and my
>>>instinct is to cut with the main part of the stock on the right.
>>
>>
>> I'm confused. The measuring guide is longer on the left? The fence is
>> usually on the right side of the blade and the material is guided along the
>> fence. The scale on the rail is set to measure the distance from the fence
>> to the right edge of the blade.
>>
>> Quick tip: Never u se the fence and the miter at the same time. Use a
>> push stick for narrow pices of wood. By narrow, anything less than four or
>> five inches, I reach for the stick and not ue=se my hand that close to the
>> blade.
>>
>>
>>
>>> Then I ended up rounding off the corners of the rabbit
>>>joint where I was coming in from. (I hope this makes sense). Short of
>>>using a router table and guide, is there a way to prevent the rounding?
>>> I thought of putting scrap wood next to it which may be the answer but
>>>it's one more piece of wood I have to clamp down.
>>
>>
>> The scrap wood works well, It is possible to cut from right to left for
>> just a 1/4" or so and then start at the left side. That little bit of
>> climb cutting is just enough. You have to do it very slowly. Eventually
>> you'll find a router table is very hand for that type of cut.
>>
>>
>>>Last one for tonight.... How do you make a perpindicular cut with a TS?
>>> I used a square to make a 90 degree mark but I know you shouldn't free
>>>cut with a TS, so how do I get the TS to follow the line? (the other
>>>side of the board is just enough of a bad angle to put the other side off.
>>
>>
>> Make a sled. Attach the board you want to cut straigh and attach it
>> temporarily to another board that is straight and use that one to follow
>> along the fence. Once you have one straight edge you can reverse the board
>> and cut off the irreglular edge.
>>
>>
>>>I'm taking a local woodworking Tech class next month and should probably
>>>just wait, but I'm not that patient.
>>
>>
>> If you want to do good woodworking, you will learn patience. Be sure to
>> read and follow the manufacturers instructions and to wear safety glasses.
>> Just like Norm. Seriously, that blade can do a lot of damage in
>> milliseconds. Use care and learn to use the saw properly.
>> Ed
>> [email protected]
>> http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
>>
>>
George wrote:
> "Richard A." <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<mKZMc.47207$ve2.38903@okepread05>...
>
>>I just purchased my first real woodworking tool (at least with
>>woodworkign in mind), a table saw. For basic cuts, is it better to cut
>>on the left or right side of the blade? I wouldn't think it would
>>matter but the saws measuring guide is longer on the left and my
>>instinct is to cut with the main part of the stock on the right.
>>
>>Also, I'm using an old Craftsman router my dad lent me. I'm trying to
>>cut a rabbit joint with it. I was told to cut from left to right but it
>>splinters the side of the board at the edge so I began cutting/routing
>>in from the outside of the edge to the inside to prevent the
>>splintering. Then I ended up rounding off the corners of the rabbit
>>joint where I was coming in from. (I hope this makes sense). Short of
>>using a router table and guide, is there a way to prevent the rounding?
>> I thought of putting scrap wood next to it which may be the answer but
>>it's one more piece of wood I have to clamp down.
>>
>>Last one for tonight.... How do you make a perpindicular cut with a TS?
>> I used a square to make a 90 degree mark but I know you shouldn't free
>>cut with a TS, so how do I get the TS to follow the line? (the other
>>side of the board is just enough of a bad angle to put the other side off.
>>
>>I'm taking a local woodworking Tech class next month and should probably
>>just wait, but I'm not that patient.
>>
>>Richard
>
>
>
> One of the responses recommended that you make a sled. I can really
> agree with that. I had read many articles about sleds and it sounded
> interesting but I never wanted to take the time to make one because it
> would slow me down. Finally I took the time and made a nice sled and
> boy did I kick myself. I should have made one years before. Any time
> you get a board of any size and try to cross cut it just using the
> miter, you will get very frustrated because it is really hard to hold
> it square. The sled allows you to hold a large board nice and square.
> It is well worth the time and effort to make one.
>
> Also, I echo the advice another gentleman gave. Never, never use a
> miter and a rip fence at the same time. Very dangerous. Also, learn
> what kickback is and understand and respect it. Saftey is very
> important. Not exciting to talk about, but if you want to do
> woodworking for a long time, you will need all your appendages and
> internal organs.
>
> George
Thanks for all the answers. That's one of the many things I love about
the net. It really seems to shorten the learning curve. I'll take the
advice given here and go ahead with building a sled. I've heard the
part about not using the rip fence and miter at the same time. Now that
I've heard it repeatedly, I intend to remember the advice.
I've read a lot on safety and seen some of the pictures posted here to
inspire people to keep paying attention. I intend to maintain a healthy
fear of the TS and other wood tools.
Richard
"Richard A." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I wouldn't think it would
> matter but the saws measuring guide is longer on the left and my
> instinct is to cut with the main part of the stock on the right.
I'm confused. The measuring guide is longer on the left? The fence is
usually on the right side of the blade and the material is guided along the
fence. The scale on the rail is set to measure the distance from the fence
to the right edge of the blade.
Quick tip: Never u se the fence and the miter at the same time. Use a
push stick for narrow pices of wood. By narrow, anything less than four or
five inches, I reach for the stick and not ue=se my hand that close to the
blade.
>
> Then I ended up rounding off the corners of the rabbit
> joint where I was coming in from. (I hope this makes sense). Short of
> using a router table and guide, is there a way to prevent the rounding?
> I thought of putting scrap wood next to it which may be the answer but
> it's one more piece of wood I have to clamp down.
The scrap wood works well, It is possible to cut from right to left for
just a 1/4" or so and then start at the left side. That little bit of
climb cutting is just enough. You have to do it very slowly. Eventually
you'll find a router table is very hand for that type of cut.
>
> Last one for tonight.... How do you make a perpindicular cut with a TS?
> I used a square to make a 90 degree mark but I know you shouldn't free
> cut with a TS, so how do I get the TS to follow the line? (the other
> side of the board is just enough of a bad angle to put the other side off.
Make a sled. Attach the board you want to cut straigh and attach it
temporarily to another board that is straight and use that one to follow
along the fence. Once you have one straight edge you can reverse the board
and cut off the irreglular edge.
>
> I'm taking a local woodworking Tech class next month and should probably
> just wait, but I'm not that patient.
If you want to do good woodworking, you will learn patience. Be sure to
read and follow the manufacturers instructions and to wear safety glasses.
Just like Norm. Seriously, that blade can do a lot of damage in
milliseconds. Use care and learn to use the saw properly.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 21:10:36 -0500, "Richard A."
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I just purchased my first real woodworking tool (at least with
>woodworkign in mind), a table saw. For basic cuts, is it better to cut
>on the left or right side of the blade? I wouldn't think it would
>matter but the saws measuring guide is longer on the left and my
>instinct is to cut with the main part of the stock on the right.
kinda depends if you're right or left handed. as a right hander I have
the fence to the right of the blade. you want your body on the
opposite side of the blade from the fence. that is, as you push the
wood through the blade, you also push it tight to the fence.
>
>Also, I'm using an old Craftsman router my dad lent me. I'm trying to
>cut a rabbit joint with it. I was told to cut from left to right but it
>splinters the side of the board at the edge so I began cutting/routing
>in from the outside of the edge to the inside to prevent the
>splintering. Then I ended up rounding off the corners of the rabbit
>joint where I was coming in from. (I hope this makes sense). Short of
>using a router table and guide, is there a way to prevent the rounding?
> I thought of putting scrap wood next to it which may be the answer but
>it's one more piece of wood I have to clamp down.
as soon as you can, get a real router.
for router tips, go to:
http://www.patwarner.com/
>
>Last one for tonight.... How do you make a perpindicular cut with a TS?
> I used a square to make a 90 degree mark but I know you shouldn't free
>cut with a TS, so how do I get the TS to follow the line? (the other
>side of the board is just enough of a bad angle to put the other side off.
with a sled.
http://tinyurl.com/44x8x
>
>I'm taking a local woodworking Tech class next month and should probably
>just wait, but I'm not that patient.
wait? pah! you gots tools.... make something!
>
>Richard
"Richard A." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:mKZMc.47207$ve2.38903@okepread05...
>
>
> I just purchased my first real woodworking tool (at least with
> woodworkign in mind), a table saw. For basic cuts, is it better to cut
Congrats!
If you're really that impatient - get one of Kelly's books or videos.
http://kellymehler.com/Assets/pages/Book%20and%20Videos.html
*All* (or darned near all) of your questions will be answered. Including
making a crosscut sled.
My small, local library had his "Mastering your Table Saw" video.
[email protected] wrote:
> On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 22:20:01 -0500, "Richard A."
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>I was refering to the scale on the rail (like I said, I'm a rookie).
>>The scale to the right of the blade is shorter than the left. The TS
>>blade I set to 0". The fence I have placed on the right side but it can
>>be moved to the left side. My question came up when I was trimming some
>>of the end of a 24" board and the fence couldn't go far enough to my
>>right to use it as a guide. I ended up moving the sliding table and
>>rail over to the right more. Now the scale is off but I assume that if
>>they didn't want me to move it, it wouldn't be movable.
>
>
> hey, is that a ryobi table saw?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>...... After reading my response I realized that my problem is that I
>>shouldn't have been using the fence and should have used the miter
>>instead. It would have been more stable, obviously. Smack. (sound of
>>palm hitting forhead)
>>
>>
>>
>>Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
>>
>>>"Richard A." <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>I wouldn't think it would
>>>>matter but the saws measuring guide is longer on the left and my
>>>>instinct is to cut with the main part of the stock on the right.
>>>
>>>
>>>I'm confused. The measuring guide is longer on the left? The fence is
>>>usually on the right side of the blade and the material is guided along the
>>>fence. The scale on the rail is set to measure the distance from the fence
>>>to the right edge of the blade.
>>>
>>>Quick tip: Never u se the fence and the miter at the same time. Use a
>>>push stick for narrow pices of wood. By narrow, anything less than four or
>>>five inches, I reach for the stick and not ue=se my hand that close to the
>>>blade.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Then I ended up rounding off the corners of the rabbit
>>>>joint where I was coming in from. (I hope this makes sense). Short of
>>>>using a router table and guide, is there a way to prevent the rounding?
>>>> I thought of putting scrap wood next to it which may be the answer but
>>>>it's one more piece of wood I have to clamp down.
>>>
>>>
>>>The scrap wood works well, It is possible to cut from right to left for
>>>just a 1/4" or so and then start at the left side. That little bit of
>>>climb cutting is just enough. You have to do it very slowly. Eventually
>>>you'll find a router table is very hand for that type of cut.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Last one for tonight.... How do you make a perpindicular cut with a TS?
>>>> I used a square to make a 90 degree mark but I know you shouldn't free
>>>>cut with a TS, so how do I get the TS to follow the line? (the other
>>>>side of the board is just enough of a bad angle to put the other side off.
>>>
>>>
>>>Make a sled. Attach the board you want to cut straigh and attach it
>>>temporarily to another board that is straight and use that one to follow
>>>along the fence. Once you have one straight edge you can reverse the board
>>>and cut off the irreglular edge.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>I'm taking a local woodworking Tech class next month and should probably
>>>>just wait, but I'm not that patient.
>>>
>>>
>>>If you want to do good woodworking, you will learn patience. Be sure to
>>>read and follow the manufacturers instructions and to wear safety glasses.
>>>Just like Norm. Seriously, that blade can do a lot of damage in
>>>milliseconds. Use care and learn to use the saw properly.
>>>Ed
>>>[email protected]
>>>http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
>>>
>>>
>
>
Yes, it is a Ryobi BT3100. I don't know anything about TS's that I
didn't read online or in a book but I feel like I made a good purchase,
so far anyhow.
It looks like I'll be making a sled as soon as I finish a featherboard.
Thanks for the tips on safety also. When hearing that I bought a TS
the guys at work replied, "so, you decided to join the nine finger
club?". Apparently there are more than a few members already. I'm not
in that big a hurry to join.
Rich
For repeated length cutoffs make/clamp a board on the rip fence short
of blade and use thatalong with the miter fence and kickbacks are
greatly reduced but repeatability is enabled. Protect your hearing!
On Mon, 26 Jul 2004 11:38:45 -0500, "Richard A."
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I've heard the part about not using the rip fence and miter at the same time. Now that
>I've heard it repeatedly, I intend to remember the advice.
I was refering to the scale on the rail (like I said, I'm a rookie).
The scale to the right of the blade is shorter than the left. The TS
blade I set to 0". The fence I have placed on the right side but it can
be moved to the left side. My question came up when I was trimming some
of the end of a 24" board and the fence couldn't go far enough to my
right to use it as a guide. I ended up moving the sliding table and
rail over to the right more. Now the scale is off but I assume that if
they didn't want me to move it, it wouldn't be movable.
...... After reading my response I realized that my problem is that I
shouldn't have been using the fence and should have used the miter
instead. It would have been more stable, obviously. Smack. (sound of
palm hitting forhead)
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> "Richard A." <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
>
>>I wouldn't think it would
>>matter but the saws measuring guide is longer on the left and my
>>instinct is to cut with the main part of the stock on the right.
>
>
> I'm confused. The measuring guide is longer on the left? The fence is
> usually on the right side of the blade and the material is guided along the
> fence. The scale on the rail is set to measure the distance from the fence
> to the right edge of the blade.
>
> Quick tip: Never u se the fence and the miter at the same time. Use a
> push stick for narrow pices of wood. By narrow, anything less than four or
> five inches, I reach for the stick and not ue=se my hand that close to the
> blade.
>
>
>
>> Then I ended up rounding off the corners of the rabbit
>>joint where I was coming in from. (I hope this makes sense). Short of
>>using a router table and guide, is there a way to prevent the rounding?
>> I thought of putting scrap wood next to it which may be the answer but
>>it's one more piece of wood I have to clamp down.
>
>
> The scrap wood works well, It is possible to cut from right to left for
> just a 1/4" or so and then start at the left side. That little bit of
> climb cutting is just enough. You have to do it very slowly. Eventually
> you'll find a router table is very hand for that type of cut.
>
>
>>Last one for tonight.... How do you make a perpindicular cut with a TS?
>> I used a square to make a 90 degree mark but I know you shouldn't free
>>cut with a TS, so how do I get the TS to follow the line? (the other
>>side of the board is just enough of a bad angle to put the other side off.
>
>
> Make a sled. Attach the board you want to cut straigh and attach it
> temporarily to another board that is straight and use that one to follow
> along the fence. Once you have one straight edge you can reverse the board
> and cut off the irreglular edge.
>
>
>>I'm taking a local woodworking Tech class next month and should probably
>>just wait, but I'm not that patient.
>
>
> If you want to do good woodworking, you will learn patience. Be sure to
> read and follow the manufacturers instructions and to wear safety glasses.
> Just like Norm. Seriously, that blade can do a lot of damage in
> milliseconds. Use care and learn to use the saw properly.
> Ed
> [email protected]
> http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
>
>
On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 21:10:36 -0500, "Richard A."
<[email protected]> wrote:
Short of
>using a router table and guide, is there a way to prevent the rounding?
> I thought of putting scrap wood next to it which may be the answer but
>it's one more piece of wood I have to clamp down.
You're correct about the scrap wood. It will give better results.
Sometimes it is wise to do that extra, annoying step to get better
results, and frequently safer operation.
>
>Last one for tonight.... How do you make a perpindicular cut with a TS?
> I used a square to make a 90 degree mark but I know you shouldn't free
>cut with a TS, so how do I get the TS to follow the line? (the other
>side of the board is just enough of a bad angle to put the other side off.
I may be misreading the situation, but it sounds as if you wanted/were
using the fence as a guide, instead of the miter. It's not a good
idea to use the fence for a guide when making a perpendicular cut
where the cut is across the narrow dimension of the work piece. The
fence is primarily an aid in ripping, not cross cutting.
>
>Richard
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/wgoffeney/Woodworking/Woodworking.htm
Vincent Heuring wrote:
> In article <260720041202425939%[email protected]>, Vince
> Heuring <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>In article <8saNc.49616$ve2.38156@okepread05>, Richard A.
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>Thanks for all the answers. That's one of the many things I love about
>>>the net. It really seems to shorten the learning curve. I'll take the
>>>advice given here and go ahead with building a sled. I've heard the
>>>part about not using the rip fence and miter at the same time. Now that
>>>I've heard it repeatedly, I intend to remember the advice.
>>>
>>>I've read a lot on safety and seen some of the pictures posted here to
>>>inspire people to keep paying attention. I intend to maintain a healthy
>>>fear of the TS and other wood tools.
>>>
>>>Richard
>>
>>Richard, Riobi has a forum for BT3K owners that's really useful:
>>http://www.ryobitools.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=list&forum=DCFo
>>rumID24&conf=DCConfID1
>
>
> Bad mailer, bad mailer. Let's make that http://tinyurl.com/3jg64
>
>
>>There's also an independent site that has lots of BT3K info:
>>http://www.bt3central.com/default.asp
>>
>>Good luck and have fun!
>>
>> Vince Heuring
Thanks. Gotta love Tinyurl's. Didn't know about the BT3K site. I think
I'll get a lot of use out of it considering that having the TS feels a
bit like having a stranger in the garage.
Rich