I'm replacing the tub in the master bath. The old tub sat directly on
the concrete slab. The tile floor was laid after the tub was set, so
the tile came up against the vertical side of the tub with a grouted
joint along the edge. The tile floor is about 1/2 inch higher than
the concrete slab. The new tub is 2 inches wider than the old tub.
My choices appear to be:
1. Cut 2 inches off the edge of the tiles and set the tub on the
concrete slab. This seems a dusty, messy solution.
2. Pour some sort of self-leveling flooring product on top of the
concrete to bring the floor under the tub up to the level of the
tile. Then the vertical side of the tub can sit on top of the
existing tile.
Which is the better solution, or is there another solution that is
better yet? Buying a new tub with the same dimensions as the old one
isn't in the cards.
DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him."
Thanks to all for your ideas. It's really amazing the quality of
advice we find here on most any subject.
I finally opened the box and found the installation instructions. I
must have been really tired last night not to have thought of that.
They emphatically recommend supporting the entire tub on a bed of
grout. That should solve my problem.
I may still trim the apron a little to keep it from bearing weight on
the tile.
DonkeyHody
Well, I had to pull the baseboard to make room for the wider tub. The
ceramic floor tile was laid against the baseboard instead of under
it. When the baseboard came up, so did several of the tiles. This
was just the excuse SWMBO needed to make the decision that we needed a
new tile floor. I half expected this project to expand that far
anyway. So now the question is, do I need to remove the existing
grout bed the tile sits on, or just pull the tile off the top?
DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him." - Thomas
Carlyle
On Jun 4, 8:02=A0am, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "DonkeyHody" wrote in message
> > Which is the better solution, or is there another solution that is
> > better yet? =A0Buying a new tub with the same dimensions as the old one
> > isn't in the cards.
>
> On another note ... considering the different dimensions of the tub, have
> you taken into account the location of the existing drain and plumbing,
> which could have an effect on how you install the tub?
>
> Just wondering ...
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 5/14/08
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
The length of the two tubs is exactly the same. There is a hole in
the concrete about 6" X 10" or so that goes clear through to the
soil. This hole contains the trap. There should be enough
adjustability in the trap to allow for the 1" offset of the drain
pipe.
Thanks
DonkeyHody
DonkeyHody wrote:
> Well, I had to pull the baseboard to make room for the wider tub. The
> ceramic floor tile was laid against the baseboard instead of under
> it. When the baseboard came up, so did several of the tiles. This
> was just the excuse SWMBO needed to make the decision that we needed a
> new tile floor. I half expected this project to expand that far
> anyway. So now the question is, do I need to remove the existing
> grout bed the tile sits on, or just pull the tile off the top?
>
> DonkeyHody
> "Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him." - Thomas
> Carlyle
Shoulda' seen that coming...
Scrape it up.
"DonkeyHody" wrote in message
> Which is the better solution, or is there another solution that is
> better yet? Buying a new tub with the same dimensions as the old one
> isn't in the cards.
On another note ... considering the different dimensions of the tub, have
you taken into account the location of the existing drain and plumbing,
which could have an effect on how you install the tub?
Just wondering ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/14/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
Nova wrote:
> DonkeyHody wrote:
>
>>
>> The new tub is acrylic. The floor tile is ceramic.
>>
>> DonkeyHody
>
> For an acrylic tub I usually set it in a bed of mortar.
>
> Mix the mortar up fairly dry. Spread it out to a depth of about 2"
> where the base of the tub will set so that the mortar will be in contact
> with the "bowl" along it's length. Set the tub by pressing it into the
> mortar bed until it is level. Secure the lip of the tub to the wall.
> Let the mortar set up.
>
> Doing this will help dampen the hollow sound when the tub fills and,
> when showering, will reduce the springy feel of the tub that most
> acrylic tubs have.
>
> It's also easier than trying to shim it level.
>
This is the process that was used in our house also. One additional
thing was that the plumber installed the drain and then filled the tub
with water to ensure good pressure over the entire tub. Nest day,
he drained the water and finished the job.
Norvin wrote:
> Nova wrote:
>
>> DonkeyHody wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> The new tub is acrylic. The floor tile is ceramic.
>>>
>>> DonkeyHody
>>
>>
>> For an acrylic tub I usually set it in a bed of mortar.
>>
>> Mix the mortar up fairly dry. Spread it out to a depth of about 2"
>> where the base of the tub will set so that the mortar will be in
>> contact with the "bowl" along it's length. Set the tub by pressing it
>> into the mortar bed until it is level. Secure the lip of the tub to
>> the wall. Let the mortar set up.
>>
>> Doing this will help dampen the hollow sound when the tub fills and,
>> when showering, will reduce the springy feel of the tub that most
>> acrylic tubs have.
>>
>> It's also easier than trying to shim it level.
>>
> This is the process that was used in our house also. One additional
> thing was that the plumber installed the drain and then filled the tub
> with water to ensure good pressure over the entire tub. Nest day,
> he drained the water and finished the job.
I've done this in the past as well but I had one occasion where the tub
seemed like it sprang back up once the water was drained. This allowed
for a spongy feeling under foot when empty. I've since decided to let
the mortar set up with the tub empty.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
DonkeyHody wrote:
> Thanks to all for your ideas. It's really amazing the quality of
> advice we find here on most any subject.
>
> I finally opened the box and found the installation instructions. I
> must have been really tired last night not to have thought of that.
> They emphatically recommend supporting the entire tub on a bed of
> grout. That should solve my problem.
>
> I may still trim the apron a little to keep it from bearing weight on
> the tile.
> DonkeyHody
Keep in mind that if there is a lip on bottom of the apron (inside or
outside)that removing it could cause the apron to be more flimsy if
hit by a foot, just a thought.......
DonkeyHody wrote:
>
> The new tub is acrylic. The floor tile is ceramic.
>
> DonkeyHody
For an acrylic tub I usually set it in a bed of mortar.
Mix the mortar up fairly dry. Spread it out to a depth of about 2"
where the base of the tub will set so that the mortar will be in contact
with the "bowl" along it's length. Set the tub by pressing it into the
mortar bed until it is level. Secure the lip of the tub to the wall.
Let the mortar set up.
Doing this will help dampen the hollow sound when the tub fills and,
when showering, will reduce the springy feel of the tub that most
acrylic tubs have.
It's also easier than trying to shim it level.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
"DonkeyHody" wrote:
> I'm replacing the tub in the master bath. The old tub sat directly
> on
> the concrete slab. The tile floor was laid after the tub was set,
> so
> the tile came up against the vertical side of the tub with a grouted
> joint along the edge. The tile floor is about 1/2 inch higher than
> the concrete slab. The new tub is 2 inches wider than the old tub.
First question:
What is the material for the new tub?
Cast Iron, Fiberglass, etc.
Would it be correct to assume the floor tile is ceramic?
Lew
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "DonkeyHody" wrote:
>
>> I'm replacing the tub in the master bath. The old tub sat directly
>> on
>> the concrete slab. The tile floor was laid after the tub was set,
>> so
>> the tile came up against the vertical side of the tub with a grouted
>> joint along the edge. The tile floor is about 1/2 inch higher than
>> the concrete slab. The new tub is 2 inches wider than the old tub.
>
> First question:
>
> What is the material for the new tub?
>
> Cast Iron, Fiberglass, etc.
>
> Would it be correct to assume the floor tile is ceramic?
>
> Lew
>
Shimming the tub is an idea, but laying a coat of leveling cement, or
grout I think would be a better solution. Be sure to let it cure before
setting the tub, and I would dampen the old concrete before laying the
new cement.
But, if the tub is acrylic, you could scribe a line and cut the apron on
the tub to sit on top of the tile, and let the tub sit naturally on the
slab.
Harvey
On Jun 3, 11:20=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "DonkeyHody" wrote:
> > I'm replacing the tub in the master bath. =A0The old tub sat directly
> > on
> > the concrete slab. =A0The tile floor was laid after the tub was set,
> > so
> > the tile came up against the vertical side of the tub with a grouted
> > joint along the edge. =A0The tile floor is about 1/2 inch higher than
> > the concrete slab. =A0The new tub is 2 inches wider than the old tub.
>
> First question:
>
> What is the material for the new tub?
>
> Cast Iron, Fiberglass, etc.
>
> Would it be correct to assume the floor tile is ceramic?
>
> Lew
The new tub is acrylic. The floor tile is ceramic.
DonkeyHody
On Tue, 3 Jun 2008 20:06:27 -0700 (PDT), DonkeyHody
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm replacing the tub in the master bath. The old tub sat directly on
>the concrete slab. The tile floor was laid after the tub was set, so
>the tile came up against the vertical side of the tub with a grouted
>joint along the edge. The tile floor is about 1/2 inch higher than
>the concrete slab. The new tub is 2 inches wider than the old tub.
>
>My choices appear to be:
>1. Cut 2 inches off the edge of the tiles and set the tub on the
>concrete slab. This seems a dusty, messy solution.
>2. Pour some sort of self-leveling flooring product on top of the
>concrete to bring the floor under the tub up to the level of the
>tile. Then the vertical side of the tub can sit on top of the
>existing tile.
>
>Which is the better solution, or is there another solution that is
>better yet? Buying a new tub with the same dimensions as the old one
>isn't in the cards.
>
>
>DonkeyHody
>"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him."
When I replaced my tub the new model had a number of support blocks
under the bottom of the water holding cavity to take the weight off of
the apron the bottom of which was at a lower elevation. My
instructions said to level using the support blocks, didn't seem to
worry about the apron other than not to put it in a bind. I was
installing on conrete, so not faced with your decision.
I would think the cleanest (well not during the process) way would be
to trim the tiles. But I believe the second method would also be
acceptable if your tile was installed with a relatively level plane
without deep and wide grout recesses. Either way, I think I would
use a color cordinated caulk rather than grout to make the seam
between the tile and the tub. Grout ridgid and not able to take the
cyclical thermal expansion as well.
good luck.
Frank
"DonkeyHody" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm replacing the tub in the master bath. The old tub sat directly on
> the concrete slab. The tile floor was laid after the tub was set, so
> the tile came up against the vertical side of the tub with a grouted
> joint along the edge. The tile floor is about 1/2 inch higher than
> the concrete slab. The new tub is 2 inches wider than the old tub.
>
> My choices appear to be:
> 1. Cut 2 inches off the edge of the tiles and set the tub on the
> concrete slab. This seems a dusty, messy solution.
> 2. Pour some sort of self-leveling flooring product on top of the
> concrete to bring the floor under the tub up to the level of the
> tile. Then the vertical side of the tub can sit on top of the
> existing tile.
>
> Which is the better solution, or is there another solution that is
> better yet? Buying a new tub with the same dimensions as the old one
> isn't in the cards.
>
>
> DonkeyHody
> "Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him."
You could also shim the tub and simply let it overhang the existing tile.
Place shims in the locations that the tub would normally come in contact
with he floor.