"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>>>> Now if they'd only make a BIGGER one (rat trap?).
>>>>
>>>>It can be used with wider stock and/or kerf if you use a piece of the
>>>>crosspiece stock along with the KM-1 - alternatively, there's a how-to
>>>>for making a quick and dirty (but equally accurate) lap joint jig at
>>>
>>> IN addition to a wider kerf (3/4" would be nice), I'd like the
>>> business surfaces to be larger so I could use 3/4" blocks.
>>
>>Do you have one?
>
> Yes, but haven't used it other than to play.
>
>> How wide of a dado do you want to make?
>
> 3/4" would be nice. 23/32" is a popular size. ;-)
If you are using this on a TS and use a stacked dado set simply using a
stacked set up to 1/2" you can cut a 3/4" dado easily with the minimum of 2
passes. Technically you should be making a minimum of 2 passes anyway.
I am a bit confused about wanting a 3/4 block? What would that be for?
>
> Like I said, allowing 3/4" stop blocks would make it easier to use
> too.
On Jan 22, 10:50=A0am, GROVER <[email protected]> wrote:
> Bought a Kerfmaker KM-1 from Bridge City Tool Works after learning
> about it from the Wreck. It does everything its maker says it will do.
> I was able to make the best half lap joints I ever did.
>
> I guess this falls into the catagory of =A0the old cliche of building a
> better mouse trap.
Now if they'd only make a BIGGER one (rat trap?).
On 1/22/2010 10:53 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> Now if they'd only make a BIGGER one (rat trap?).
It can be used with wider stock and/or kerf if you use a piece of the
crosspiece stock along with the KM-1 - alternatively, there's a how-to
for making a quick and dirty (but equally accurate) lap joint jig at
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/LapJointJig/
(Inspired by Bridge City KM-1 tool.)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
On Sat, 23 Jan 2010 11:15:54 -0600, "Leon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Sat, 23 Jan 2010 08:20:18 -0600, "Leon" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>>> Now if they'd only make a BIGGER one (rat trap?).
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>It can be used with wider stock and/or kerf if you use a piece of the
>>>>>>>crosspiece stock along with the KM-1 - alternatively, there's a how-to
>>>>>>>for making a quick and dirty (but equally accurate) lap joint jig at
>>>>>>
>>>>>> IN addition to a wider kerf (3/4" would be nice), I'd like the
>>>>>> business surfaces to be larger so I could use 3/4" blocks.
>>>>>
>>>>>Do you have one?
>>>>
>>>> Yes, but haven't used it other than to play.
>>>>
>>>>> How wide of a dado do you want to make?
>>>>
>>>> 3/4" would be nice. 23/32" is a popular size. ;-)
>>>
>>>If you are using this on a TS and use a stacked dado set simply using a
>>>stacked set up to 1/2" you can cut a 3/4" dado easily with the minimum of
>>>2
>>>passes. Technically you should be making a minimum of 2 passes anyway.
>>
>> Sure, the KM-1 sets up the two passes. My stacked dado goes well over
>> 3/4" (limited by the arbor, actually).
>
>Unfortunately the Kerf Maker is only designed however to work with "up to" a
>1/2" kerf. But that should basically get up up to ~1" with only 2 passes.
>
Yes, I did read that part before I bought it, too. ;-) In reality,
for most uses 1/2" (w/two passes) is enough. I'd still like it to be
a bit (~50%) larger.
>>
>>>I am a bit confused about wanting a 3/4 block? What would that be for?
>>
>> The KM-1 stop block. 1x material is too thick for the stop block. A
>> 1x doesn't fit in the notch under the gold piece (don't remember the
>> surface IDs).
>
>Oh, you are talking about the short step that has to be used for the 2 cut
>positions. Normal stock you have around the shop would be too thick. Yeah,
>that could be a bit taller than 3/4" but that would make the jig larger and
>in turn easier to find when misplaced and in turn fewer "replacement of lost
>jig" sales. :~)
I suppose a larger device would cost more to produce but it's not like
these things were given away as show trinkets.
>I always have a lot of scrap 1/2" Baltic Birch so that is
>not a bid deal for me. In fact my Kreg miter gauge stop works well as is,
>instead of flipping the kerf maker 180 degrees I go 90 degrees so that the
>longer end is up.
Where I always have scraps of 1x and 3/4" ply laying around.
On Sat, 23 Jan 2010 08:20:18 -0600, "Leon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>>>>> Now if they'd only make a BIGGER one (rat trap?).
>>>>>
>>>>>It can be used with wider stock and/or kerf if you use a piece of the
>>>>>crosspiece stock along with the KM-1 - alternatively, there's a how-to
>>>>>for making a quick and dirty (but equally accurate) lap joint jig at
>>>>
>>>> IN addition to a wider kerf (3/4" would be nice), I'd like the
>>>> business surfaces to be larger so I could use 3/4" blocks.
>>>
>>>Do you have one?
>>
>> Yes, but haven't used it other than to play.
>>
>>> How wide of a dado do you want to make?
>>
>> 3/4" would be nice. 23/32" is a popular size. ;-)
>
>If you are using this on a TS and use a stacked dado set simply using a
>stacked set up to 1/2" you can cut a 3/4" dado easily with the minimum of 2
>passes. Technically you should be making a minimum of 2 passes anyway.
Sure, the KM-1 sets up the two passes. My stacked dado goes well over
3/4" (limited by the arbor, actually).
>I am a bit confused about wanting a 3/4 block? What would that be for?
The KM-1 stop block. 1x material is too thick for the stop block. A
1x doesn't fit in the notch under the gold piece (don't remember the
surface IDs).
BTW, the stop block clamped to the fence rail works great.
>>
>> Like I said, allowing 3/4" stop blocks would make it easier to use
>> too.
>
On Fri, 22 Jan 2010 20:09:15 -0600, "Leon" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Fri, 22 Jan 2010 16:03:58 -0600, Morris Dovey <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>On 1/22/2010 10:53 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>>> Now if they'd only make a BIGGER one (rat trap?).
>>>
>>>It can be used with wider stock and/or kerf if you use a piece of the
>>>crosspiece stock along with the KM-1 - alternatively, there's a how-to
>>>for making a quick and dirty (but equally accurate) lap joint jig at
>>
>> IN addition to a wider kerf (3/4" would be nice), I'd like the
>> business surfaces to be larger so I could use 3/4" blocks.
>
>Do you have one?
Yes, but haven't used it other than to play.
> How wide of a dado do you want to make?
3/4" would be nice. 23/32" is a popular size. ;-)
Like I said, allowing 3/4" stop blocks would make it easier to use
too.
On Fri, 22 Jan 2010 16:03:58 -0600, Morris Dovey <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 1/22/2010 10:53 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>
>> Now if they'd only make a BIGGER one (rat trap?).
>
>It can be used with wider stock and/or kerf if you use a piece of the
>crosspiece stock along with the KM-1 - alternatively, there's a how-to
>for making a quick and dirty (but equally accurate) lap joint jig at
IN addition to a wider kerf (3/4" would be nice), I'd like the
business surfaces to be larger so I could use 3/4" blocks.
>
> http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/LapJointJig/
>
>(Inspired by Bridge City KM-1 tool.)
"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 22 Jan 2010 16:03:58 -0600, Morris Dovey <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>On 1/22/2010 10:53 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>> Now if they'd only make a BIGGER one (rat trap?).
>>
>>It can be used with wider stock and/or kerf if you use a piece of the
>>crosspiece stock along with the KM-1 - alternatively, there's a how-to
>>for making a quick and dirty (but equally accurate) lap joint jig at
>
> IN addition to a wider kerf (3/4" would be nice), I'd like the
> business surfaces to be larger so I could use 3/4" blocks.
Do you have one? How wide of a dado do you want to make?
"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 23 Jan 2010 08:20:18 -0600, "Leon" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>> Now if they'd only make a BIGGER one (rat trap?).
>>>>>>
>>>>>>It can be used with wider stock and/or kerf if you use a piece of the
>>>>>>crosspiece stock along with the KM-1 - alternatively, there's a how-to
>>>>>>for making a quick and dirty (but equally accurate) lap joint jig at
>>>>>
>>>>> IN addition to a wider kerf (3/4" would be nice), I'd like the
>>>>> business surfaces to be larger so I could use 3/4" blocks.
>>>>
>>>>Do you have one?
>>>
>>> Yes, but haven't used it other than to play.
>>>
>>>> How wide of a dado do you want to make?
>>>
>>> 3/4" would be nice. 23/32" is a popular size. ;-)
>>
>>If you are using this on a TS and use a stacked dado set simply using a
>>stacked set up to 1/2" you can cut a 3/4" dado easily with the minimum of
>>2
>>passes. Technically you should be making a minimum of 2 passes anyway.
>
> Sure, the KM-1 sets up the two passes. My stacked dado goes well over
> 3/4" (limited by the arbor, actually).
Unfortunately the Kerf Maker is only designed however to work with "up to" a
1/2" kerf. But that should basically get up up to ~1" with only 2 passes.
>
>>I am a bit confused about wanting a 3/4 block? What would that be for?
>
> The KM-1 stop block. 1x material is too thick for the stop block. A
> 1x doesn't fit in the notch under the gold piece (don't remember the
> surface IDs).
Oh, you are talking about the short step that has to be used for the 2 cut
positions. Normal stock you have around the shop would be too thick. Yeah,
that could be a bit taller than 3/4" but that would make the jig larger and
in turn easier to find when misplaced and in turn fewer "replacement of lost
jig" sales. :~) I always have a lot of scrap 1/2" Baltic Birch so that is
not a bid deal for me. In fact my Kreg miter gauge stop works well as is,
instead of flipping the kerf maker 180 degrees I go 90 degrees so that the
longer end is up.
>
> BTW, the stop block clamped to the fence rail works great.
>
>>>
>>> Like I said, allowing 3/4" stop blocks would make it easier to use
>>> too.
>>