I am making my first bookcase and have made the facing out of maple.
I want to know which plane would be best in smoothing out where a
perpendicular and horizontal pieces come together. I used a the Kreig
pocket hole to put the face frame together and I want to make it perfectly
flush. The pieces are bout 2-3 inched in width.
Thanks
Scott - Woodstock GA
Scott Willett said the following on 24/10/2005 3:12 AM:
> I am making my first bookcase and have made the facing out of maple.
>
> I want to know which plane would be best in smoothing out where a
> perpendicular and horizontal pieces come together. I used a the Kreig
> pocket hole to put the face frame together and I want to make it perfectly
> flush. The pieces are bout 2-3 inched in width.
>
> Thanks
> Scott - Woodstock GA
>
>
Hi Scott,
From a fellow newbie! I'm not sure if you've done this but I'll
mention it anyway. Next time try and square everything up,sand/plane etc
*before* you join them. Remember 'measure twice cut once'. The same idea
can be applied to assembling a piece. Check everything first beforehand.
--
Mark
None. Use a scraper.
"Scott Willett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am making my first bookcase and have made the facing out of maple.
>
> I want to know which plane would be best in smoothing out where a
> perpendicular and horizontal pieces come together. I used a the Kreig
> pocket hole to put the face frame together and I want to make it perfectly
> flush. The pieces are bout 2-3 inched in width.
>
> Thanks
> Scott - Woodstock GA
>
>
Scott Willett wrote:
> I am making my first bookcase and have made the facing out of maple.
>
> I want to know which plane would be best in smoothing out where a
> perpendicular and horizontal pieces come together. I used a the Kreig
> pocket hole to put the face frame together and I want to make it
> perfectly flush. The pieces are bout 2-3 inched in width.
Depends on how far off they are. If not much, just a palm sander will
work OK. If more, I'd just use a small, block plane. Even better is to
belt sand it. Problem in both cases is that the grain is going at right
angles one piece to another...no problem when one piece is sticking out
considerably but as you plane/sand they get closer together and it is
easy to dig into the other crossgrain piece as you whittle down. When
you get close, take *thin* cuts at an angle, outside toward center or
use a scraper. BTW, you don't have to skinny down all the piece that is
sticking out, just the area in the vicinity of the joint.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Thanks so much for all your replies. A little sanding did the job.
Thanks again
"Scott Willett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am making my first bookcase and have made the facing out of maple.
>
> I want to know which plane would be best in smoothing out where a
> perpendicular and horizontal pieces come together. I used a the Kreig
> pocket hole to put the face frame together and I want to make it perfectly
> flush. The pieces are bout 2-3 inched in width.
>
> Thanks
> Scott - Woodstock GA
>
"Scott Willett" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Thanks so much for all your replies. A little sanding did the job.
>
> Thanks again
> "Scott Willett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I am making my first bookcase and have made the facing out of maple.
>>
>> I want to know which plane would be best in smoothing out where a
>> perpendicular and horizontal pieces come together. I used a the
>> Kreig pocket hole to put the face frame together and I want to make
>> it perfectly flush. The pieces are bout 2-3 inched in width.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Scott - Woodstock GA
>>
Ah, too late now ... but for that I'd use a sharp smooth plane. Just turn
it to follow the grain as you go around the corner. No problem.
Either sanding and scraping works fine, too. But there are some times when
a handplane is better. For example, leveling drawer dividers where you
don't want to round over the edge with a sander ... or leveling a M&T frame
after you have the panel in, when you might accidentally gouge the raising
with the scraper corner. DAMHIKT.
"Scott Willett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am making my first bookcase and have made the facing out of maple.
>
> I want to know which plane would be best in smoothing out where a
> perpendicular and horizontal pieces come together. I used a the Kreig
> pocket hole to put the face frame together and I want to make it perfectly
> flush. The pieces are bout 2-3 inched in width.
Are you not using the Kreig clamp? If not, use it. It makes alignment much
easier. If you are making a double-hole joint place the clamp right
under/over the first hole The move the clamp for the next screw. Use the big
side of the clamp on the show side of the face frame.
ROS from there.
-Steve
"Scott Willett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am making my first bookcase and have made the facing out of maple.
>
> I want to know which plane would be best in smoothing out where a
> perpendicular and horizontal pieces come together. I used a the Kreig
> pocket hole to put the face frame together and I want to make it perfectly
> flush. The pieces are bout 2-3 inched in width.
>
I always sand it. I don't think you even could use a plane for that.