I have some Mapei KER 121 thinset left over from installing floor ceramics.
We want to tile (2x2 inch) our kitchen counters - one is a 'dry' counter,
the
other is 'wet' - around the sink. I need a recommendation of the right
product
to use if the KER 121 isn't ok.
On the dry counter (about 2x4 feet) I have two 5/8 sheets of exterior grade
ply.
Around the sink (about 2x3 feet, minus the sink itself) I have a single
sheet
of 5/8 ply and a 1/2 inch sheet of backer board (DenShield).
Never done this before so any tips are appreciated.
thanks,
Frank
frankg wrote:
> I have some Mapei KER 121 thinset left over from installing floor
ceramics.
> We want to tile (2x2 inch) our kitchen counters - one is a 'dry'
counter,
> the
> other is 'wet' - around the sink. I need a recommendation of the
right
> product
> to use if the KER 121 isn't ok.
>
> On the dry counter (about 2x4 feet) I have two 5/8 sheets of exterior
grade
> ply.
> Around the sink (about 2x3 feet, minus the sink itself) I have a
single
> sheet
> of 5/8 ply and a 1/2 inch sheet of backer board (DenShield).
>
> Never done this before so any tips are appreciated.
I have to go against the consensus here and say that I love my tiled
counter top. Couple of things:
I used porcelain. It's tons harder than ceramic, and nothing can chip
these things. I've dropped huge pots on corner, and not a mark.
Cleanup is easy. I don't know what people are doing, but for this
stuff to stain, you'd have to leave a puddle on the counter overnight.
A simple wipe up with a sponge and it's done.
Go to Home Depot and buy their tiling 1-2-3 book. Everything you ever
wanted to know about tiling.
The sink I used is an under mount sink, and I made the cutout so that I
tiled vertically around it for about an 1.25" (I used 3/4" ply, and
1/2" cement board). Looks great.
> > Cleanup is easy. I don't know what people are doing, but for this
> > stuff to stain, you'd have to leave a puddle on the counter
overnight.
> > A simple wipe up with a sponge and it's done.
> >
> > Go to Home Depot and buy their tiling 1-2-3 book. Everything you
ever
> > wanted to know about tiling.
> >
> > The sink I used is an under mount sink, and I made the cutout so
that I
> > tiled vertically around it for about an 1.25" (I used 3/4" ply, and
> > 1/2" cement board). Looks great.
>
> the tile doesn't stain. the grout does.
I never said otherwise, but you still have to let any liquid sit on
there for quite a while.
> pots/plates also wobble, which is a pain to deal with. i used 12"
granite
> tiles which is a bit better.
I used 6" tiles, and it's flat.
Sorry, been out of town for a while...
Charles Spitzer wrote:
> how is it for grout repairs? i have some cement type grout that i'm going to
> be digging out to repair some places. will this stick to what is left just
> under the surface?
Epoxy grout is epoxy with colored silca sand mixed in. No problems
sticking to any surface that regular epoxy will stick to.
If it were me I think I'd try to get the "depth" of the epoxy grout to
equal or exceed the width of the grout joint.
-Bruce
>
On Wed, 18 May 2005 21:37:26 -0600, David wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
All the other comments about chipping, using as a cutting board, making pie
crusts, etc. should be considered. In my case I used 12" granite with narrow
(penny width) grout joints.
> Bruce, I've not used epoxy grout yet. Could you describe as best you
> can how the application differs from ordinary grout?
Basically it is epoxy with silica sand for "texture" and color.
It comes in kits (check out http://www.laticrete.com/ )
There is a hardener, resin, and bag-'o-sand in the color of your choice. It
is pricey!
You need a rubber grout float (hard edged, not the "foam" type) and some
white scrub pads (the kits come with the pads) for clean up.
Simply, you apply just like regular grout. Glop it on and force it into the
joints. Be aware that it tends to "flow" more than regular grout. I was
worried about it flowing out of my backsplash but it didn't. After you get it
applied, you clean up by rubbing the surface with the white pads and water.
Really it's the same process as regular grout, just slightly different
equipment. I would hesitate to apply it to porous or rough surface tiles
since it would be difficult to clean the grout out of the pores.
It does have the texture of hot melted bubblegum. Kind of stringy and
elastic. Work time is reasonably long.
It does have a bit of sheen compared to the flatness of cement grout, some
describe it as looking like toothpaste.
Epoxy grout is what is used in industrial areas and kitchens. Basically
impervious to anything and it won't absorb stains or break down. Looks like
new after several years of total abuse.
One "bad" aspect of it flowing is if your tiles are set such that there are
any channels for the grout to seep into, it will and you will get somewhat
shallow fills unless you compensate.
You also should have a solid base in general for tile counters. I used 5/8
cdx plywood with 1/2" cement backer board screwed and thin-setted on top
(latex modified thinset). The tiles were places on top with the same thinset.
> Is it the
> consistency that makes it hard to spread, or some other factors that
> contribute to other difficulties?
Just "gooey".
> Is it harder to remove the excess?
Yes, but it can be done with plenty of wipes with clean water,
> How's the drying time as compared to std grout?
It depends on the brand, but I seem to remember about an hour of work time
and 24 hours to full dry.
Do some google "epoxy grout" usenet searches and check with your better tile
suppliers.
Let me know if you have more questions 8^)
-Bruce
> More than likely I'll be
> grouting my kitchen counter during a remodel that includes replacing
> Formica with tile, but I'm doubtful we can keep the grout in decent
> shape over a long period. I've got latex modified grout that's been on
> 2 vanity countertops for over two years and they are doing ok, but those
> seams aren't soaked with oils as a kitchen would encounter.
>
> Dave
>
> Bruce wrote:
>
>>> Grout will stain, no matter what the
>>> sealant companies will try to tell you.
>>
>>
>> Epoxy grout won't
>>
>> Works like warm bubblegum but otherwise the _only_ grout I'd use anywhere
>> water is the norm vs. the exception.
>>
>> -Bruce
>>
>>
>>
Thanks R,
The concrete backer board is cut outside of the plywood cut out, beyond the
perimeter of the sink edge. You then put a series of stainless steel flat
head screws sunk half way down (1/8 " protruding) and level them. You put a
layer of marine adhesive in the recession over the screws and bed the sink
(elevated slightly by the screw heads to create a bed above and below the
sink lip) in the adhesive. you let that dry and then tile over the lip which
is now water tight and sealed. After the tile is set, you go back and seal
the edge with marine adhesive or silicone. You then have a permanent and
water tight sink edge that will never allow water underneath.
Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworker
www.woodworkinghobby.com
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworker" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I have a few pictures of the nearly completed copy on my web page
>> if you want to check it out.
>
> Looks like a nice job, Dennis. The bigger tiles would make it much more
> serviceable.
> Is the lip of the sink sitting on the substrate and the tiles were
> applied afterwards?
> Nice job in the inside radii.
>
> r
Mark & Juanita <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Wed, 18 May 2005 07:09:02 -0400, "frankg" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>I have some Mapei KER 121 thinset left over from installing floor
>>ceramics. We want to tile (2x2 inch) our kitchen counters - one is a
>>'dry' counter, the
>>other is 'wet' - around the sink. I need a recommendation of the right
>>product
>>to use if the KER 121 isn't ok.
>>
>>On the dry counter (about 2x4 feet) I have two 5/8 sheets of exterior
>>grade ply.
>>Around the sink (about 2x3 feet, minus the sink itself) I have a
>>single sheet
>>of 5/8 ply and a 1/2 inch sheet of backer board (DenShield).
>>
>>Never done this before so any tips are appreciated.
>>
>>thanks,
>>Frank
>
> Want a bit of advice from someone with a tiled countertop? Don't,
> as in
> DON'T do it! My wife absolutely hates the stuff. As the countertop
> ages, the grout wears down and you wind up with cavities that are hard
> to clean, hold stuff like spilled flour or sugar, and channel
> drippings all over the place. There are numerous better materials out
> there for counter tops.
And, if you do any baking, are you going to roll the dough on tile?
I have read with interest the cons of using tile for the counter top and I
could not agree more with the comments on 4" or 6" tile.
That having been said, I chose 12" black granite tile for my new kitchen
remodel and demanded a black EPOXY grout from a company called Laticrete.
The product is sold at Lowes for the weekend warrior. It is not easy to
apply, particularly in regard to cleaning the residue. You must get it all
off and the key here is constant changing of the water and the sponges. But
it is durable, color fast and impervious to water.
Yes, even my 1/16inch grout lines catch a little flour but I use a baking
canvas on the counter anyway and if the contractor does a good job of
leveling the 12"tile, it really is a pretty flat surface. My trick is to
keep a powerful hand vac handy like the Shark to do the preliminary cleaning
and then glass cleaner and paper towel give me a beautiful clean surface in
a jiffy. I have a few pictures of the nearly completed copy on my web page
if you want to check it out.
Good Luck
Dennis Slabaugh
Hobbyist Woodworker
www.woodworkinghobby.com
"frankg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have some Mapei KER 121 thinset left over from installing floor ceramics.
> We want to tile (2x2 inch) our kitchen counters - one is a 'dry' counter,
> the
> other is 'wet' - around the sink. I need a recommendation of the right
> product
> to use if the KER 121 isn't ok.
>
> On the dry counter (about 2x4 feet) I have two 5/8 sheets of exterior
> grade
> ply.
> Around the sink (about 2x3 feet, minus the sink itself) I have a single
> sheet
> of 5/8 ply and a 1/2 inch sheet of backer board (DenShield).
>
> Never done this before so any tips are appreciated.
>
> thanks,
> Frank
>
>
>
>
Bruce, I've not used epoxy grout yet. Could you describe as best you
can how the application differs from ordinary grout? Is it the
consistency that makes it hard to spread, or some other factors that
contribute to other difficulties? Is it harder to remove the excess?
How's the drying time as compared to std grout? More than likely I'll be
grouting my kitchen counter during a remodel that includes replacing
Formica with tile, but I'm doubtful we can keep the grout in decent
shape over a long period. I've got latex modified grout that's been on
2 vanity countertops for over two years and they are doing ok, but those
seams aren't soaked with oils as a kitchen would encounter.
Dave
Bruce wrote:
>>Grout will stain, no matter what the
>>sealant companies will try to tell you.
>
>
> Epoxy grout won't
>
> Works like warm bubblegum but otherwise the _only_ grout I'd use anywhere
> water is the norm vs. the exception.
>
> -Bruce
>
>
>
In article <[email protected]>, "frankg" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have some Mapei KER 121 thinset left over from installing floor ceramics.
[...]
>Never done this before so any tips are appreciated.
MIght be better off posting to alt.home.repair .
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
To the OP, my recommendation is simply this: don't do it. We spent a
long weekend two years ago ripping out the tile counters the previous
owners had installed in our house. They were arguably the worst kitchen
surface you can imagine-- hard to clean, impossible to work on (try
rolling out a piecrust on 4x4 tile), they chipped from pots, etc. etc.
We ended up ripping out the counters entirely and starting from
scratch, replacing them with laminate and oak trim. It was a huge
improvement. I'd never buy a house with tile counters again.
Good luck!
-kiwanda
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "frankg" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I have some Mapei KER 121 thinset left over from installing floor
>> ceramics.
>> We want to tile (2x2 inch) our kitchen counters - [snip]
>>
>> Never done this before so any tips are appreciated.
>>
>
> Although tiled counters can be downright beautiful, as a work surface
> they suck. They usually aren't very reliable, as water seeps in here and
> there, around the sink, etc. Grout will stain, no matter what the
> sealant companies will try to tell you. The sink problems have been
> solved by a very innovative company, I suggest you study their ideas.
> http://www.counter-seal.com/sche.html
> A drop-in sink on top of tile, will leave you with dirt traps all around
> the perimeter. Silicon seals look just plain ugly.
> What I suggest to my clients is to use a flat, watertight, non-porous,
> refinish-able surface, such as solid surface acrylics or stainless and
> create the tile masterpiece on the wall as a back-splash. That way they
> get 'the look', without the high maintenance. A custom GP grade laminate
> top will give you all those features as well for less money, but you
> lose the non-staining, refinish-ability of acrylic solid surface.
> Please note the emphasis on acrylic; polyester makes for bad countertops.
>
> I hope this helps.
>
> Rob
>
> www.topworks.ca
the smaller the tile, the more uneven the surface. 2" are horrible to work
on. plates, pans, cutting boards rock.
pick something larger, or go to a solid surface, for a better counter.
you can use that thinset on counters. use mastic for walls.
how is it for grout repairs? i have some cement type grout that i'm going to
be digging out to repair some places. will this stick to what is left just
under the surface?
"Bruce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 18 May 2005 21:37:26 -0600, David wrote
> (in article <[email protected]>):
>
> All the other comments about chipping, using as a cutting board, making
> pie
> crusts, etc. should be considered. In my case I used 12" granite with
> narrow
> (penny width) grout joints.
>
>
>> Bruce, I've not used epoxy grout yet. Could you describe as best you
>> can how the application differs from ordinary grout?
>
> Basically it is epoxy with silica sand for "texture" and color.
> It comes in kits (check out http://www.laticrete.com/ )
>
> There is a hardener, resin, and bag-'o-sand in the color of your choice.
> It
> is pricey!
>
> You need a rubber grout float (hard edged, not the "foam" type) and some
> white scrub pads (the kits come with the pads) for clean up.
>
> Simply, you apply just like regular grout. Glop it on and force it into
> the
> joints. Be aware that it tends to "flow" more than regular grout. I was
> worried about it flowing out of my backsplash but it didn't. After you get
> it
> applied, you clean up by rubbing the surface with the white pads and
> water.
> Really it's the same process as regular grout, just slightly different
> equipment. I would hesitate to apply it to porous or rough surface tiles
> since it would be difficult to clean the grout out of the pores.
>
> It does have the texture of hot melted bubblegum. Kind of stringy and
> elastic. Work time is reasonably long.
> It does have a bit of sheen compared to the flatness of cement grout, some
> describe it as looking like toothpaste.
>
> Epoxy grout is what is used in industrial areas and kitchens. Basically
> impervious to anything and it won't absorb stains or break down. Looks
> like
> new after several years of total abuse.
>
> One "bad" aspect of it flowing is if your tiles are set such that there
> are
> any channels for the grout to seep into, it will and you will get somewhat
> shallow fills unless you compensate.
>
> You also should have a solid base in general for tile counters. I used 5/8
> cdx plywood with 1/2" cement backer board screwed and thin-setted on top
> (latex modified thinset). The tiles were places on top with the same
> thinset.
>
>
>> Is it the
>> consistency that makes it hard to spread, or some other factors that
>> contribute to other difficulties?
>
> Just "gooey".
>
>> Is it harder to remove the excess?
> Yes, but it can be done with plenty of wipes with clean water,
>
>> How's the drying time as compared to std grout?
>
> It depends on the brand, but I seem to remember about an hour of work time
> and 24 hours to full dry.
>
> Do some google "epoxy grout" usenet searches and check with your better
> tile
> suppliers.
>
> Let me know if you have more questions 8^)
>
> -Bruce
>
>
>> More than likely I'll be
>> grouting my kitchen counter during a remodel that includes replacing
>> Formica with tile, but I'm doubtful we can keep the grout in decent
>> shape over a long period. I've got latex modified grout that's been on
>> 2 vanity countertops for over two years and they are doing ok, but those
>> seams aren't soaked with oils as a kitchen would encounter.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> Bruce wrote:
>>
>>>> Grout will stain, no matter what the
>>>> sealant companies will try to tell you.
>>>
>>>
>>> Epoxy grout won't
>>>
>>> Works like warm bubblegum but otherwise the _only_ grout I'd use
>>> anywhere
>>> water is the norm vs. the exception.
>>>
>>> -Bruce
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
"Larry Bud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> frankg wrote:
>> I have some Mapei KER 121 thinset left over from installing floor
> ceramics.
>> We want to tile (2x2 inch) our kitchen counters - one is a 'dry'
> counter,
>> the
>> other is 'wet' - around the sink. I need a recommendation of the
> right
>> product
>> to use if the KER 121 isn't ok.
>>
>> On the dry counter (about 2x4 feet) I have two 5/8 sheets of exterior
> grade
>> ply.
>> Around the sink (about 2x3 feet, minus the sink itself) I have a
> single
>> sheet
>> of 5/8 ply and a 1/2 inch sheet of backer board (DenShield).
>>
>> Never done this before so any tips are appreciated.
>
> I have to go against the consensus here and say that I love my tiled
> counter top. Couple of things:
>
> I used porcelain. It's tons harder than ceramic, and nothing can chip
> these things. I've dropped huge pots on corner, and not a mark.
>
> Cleanup is easy. I don't know what people are doing, but for this
> stuff to stain, you'd have to leave a puddle on the counter overnight.
> A simple wipe up with a sponge and it's done.
>
> Go to Home Depot and buy their tiling 1-2-3 book. Everything you ever
> wanted to know about tiling.
>
> The sink I used is an under mount sink, and I made the cutout so that I
> tiled vertically around it for about an 1.25" (I used 3/4" ply, and
> 1/2" cement board). Looks great.
the tile doesn't stain. the grout does.
pots/plates also wobble, which is a pain to deal with. i used 12" granite
tiles which is a bit better.
regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/chaniarts
In article <[email protected]>,
"frankg" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have some Mapei KER 121 thinset left over from installing floor ceramics.
> We want to tile (2x2 inch) our kitchen counters - [snip]
>
> Never done this before so any tips are appreciated.
>
Although tiled counters can be downright beautiful, as a work surface
they suck. They usually aren't very reliable, as water seeps in here and
there, around the sink, etc. Grout will stain, no matter what the
sealant companies will try to tell you. The sink problems have been
solved by a very innovative company, I suggest you study their ideas.
http://www.counter-seal.com/sche.html
A drop-in sink on top of tile, will leave you with dirt traps all around
the perimeter. Silicon seals look just plain ugly.
What I suggest to my clients is to use a flat, watertight, non-porous,
refinish-able surface, such as solid surface acrylics or stainless and
create the tile masterpiece on the wall as a back-splash. That way they
get 'the look', without the high maintenance. A custom GP grade laminate
top will give you all those features as well for less money, but you
lose the non-staining, refinish-ability of acrylic solid surface.
Please note the emphasis on acrylic; polyester makes for bad countertops.
I hope this helps.
Rob
www.topworks.ca
In article <[email protected]>,
Prometheus <[email protected]> wrote:
[snipperized for brevity]
> One of the salesmen
> set a cardboard box full of faucets in one of them on top of a thin
> layer of drywall dust when I was working, and it left a bunch of fine
> scratches that basically destroyed the look of the entire tub. I know
> you were referring to joint strength previously, but is the surface
> really desirable for a situation where dishes are going to get slid
> around, and may be used as a cutting board by some careless person
> sometime down the road?
The first question would be: was it really acrylic? Because, if it was,
it can be sanded out and re-polished.
So many of those tubs are basically gel-coat and fibre-glass that
refinishing becomes a lot trickier.
All those types of counter tops will scratch. The polyester leaving
white scratches, the acrylic tends to be less obvious. To a lesser
extent, so will granite. The bottom of so many dishes are downright
abrasive like a sanding stone.
The choice of colour/pattern and the use of decorative trivets alleviate
most of those scratches.
I tell my customers just to accept the fact that it will scratch, and
ignore them. Then in a year or two, when it get really ugly, call me and
I will refinish to the same standard as the day it left my shop..aka..
like new.
It's funny, the last two tops I just installed were Pebble Ebony Staron
and Onyx Black Staron. Both in front of windows, both semi-gloss.
Both customers were told in no uncertain terms about the way they will
look in a year. Neither were put off by that. One said "There will
likely be some stone-chips on my new ML500 by the end of summer as well."
The other: "It's a working surface fur chrissakes, of course it's going
to get all marked up...but should there be a party it can be restored,
right?"
It's all about expectations. My counter is now 9 years old, in this
house, it is Pebble Grey Staron..it gets used. I mean it gets used a LOT.
I have never refinished it yet, yet the pattern and colour hide the
bezillions of scratches so well, that maybe I'll refinish it next
year...maybe not.
It's a bit like a 10-year old Rolex. scuffed and scratched, but it's a
Rolex, dammit.
...and that reminds of a joke. (I have time to do this because my tea is
still too hot)
This young rich dude is bombing along a country road in his new CLK 500
Mercedes.
A farmer pulls out of his drive right in front of him.
Trying to avoid the tractor, the Mercedes loses control and rolls a few
times and comes to a stop in the ditch.
The Yuppy is just crying: "My new Mercedes, my new Mercedes..!!!"
The farmer walks up to him and says: "Hey fellar, looks like you lost
your right arm!!"
The yuppie looks downs and cries: "My Rolex!! My Rolex!!!"
In article <[email protected]>,
"Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworker" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a few pictures of the nearly completed copy on my web page
> if you want to check it out.
Looks like a nice job, Dennis. The bigger tiles would make it much more
serviceable.
Is the lip of the sink sitting on the substrate and the tiles were
applied afterwards?
Nice job in the inside radii.
r
On Wed, 18 May 2005 07:09:02 -0400, "frankg" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I have some Mapei KER 121 thinset left over from installing floor ceramics.
>We want to tile (2x2 inch) our kitchen counters - one is a 'dry' counter,
>the
>other is 'wet' - around the sink. I need a recommendation of the right
>product
>to use if the KER 121 isn't ok.
>
>On the dry counter (about 2x4 feet) I have two 5/8 sheets of exterior grade
>ply.
>Around the sink (about 2x3 feet, minus the sink itself) I have a single
>sheet
>of 5/8 ply and a 1/2 inch sheet of backer board (DenShield).
>
>Never done this before so any tips are appreciated.
>
>thanks,
>Frank
Want a bit of advice from someone with a tiled countertop? Don't, as in
DON'T do it! My wife absolutely hates the stuff. As the countertop ages,
the grout wears down and you wind up with cavities that are hard to clean,
hold stuff like spilled flour or sugar, and channel drippings all over the
place. There are numerous better materials out there for counter tops.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
On Wed, 18 May 2005 09:03:51 -0400, Robatoy <[email protected]>
wrote:
>A drop-in sink on top of tile, will leave you with dirt traps all around
>the perimeter. Silicon seals look just plain ugly.
I like plumber's dope around the underside of the sink, myself. Works
pretty darn good, and you can't see it from the top of the counter.
>What I suggest to my clients is to use a flat, watertight, non-porous,
>refinish-able surface, such as solid surface acrylics or stainless and
>create the tile masterpiece on the wall as a back-splash. That way they
>get 'the look', without the high maintenance. A custom GP grade laminate
>top will give you all those features as well for less money, but you
>lose the non-staining, refinish-ability of acrylic solid surface.
I've done three or four tile countertops over the past several years,
and I'd tend to agree with you. They look okay, but keeping them
clean is far more hassle then it's worth.
>Please note the emphasis on acrylic; polyester makes for bad countertops.
This is the thing I really wanted to ask about- as I saw you make the
same recommendation in another thread. You might be taking about an
entirely different product, but a couple of years ago, I built a
showroom for a plumbing wholesaler who stocked acrylic tubs, and those
things were so fragile it was just rediculous. One of the salesmen
set a cardboard box full of faucets in one of them on top of a thin
layer of drywall dust when I was working, and it left a bunch of fine
scratches that basically destroyed the look of the entire tub. I know
you were referring to joint strength previously, but is the surface
really desirable for a situation where dishes are going to get slid
around, and may be used as a cutting board by some careless person
sometime down the road?
Like I said, it could be an entirely different product, and probably
is- but it really piqued my curiousity.
On Thu, 19 May 2005 09:58:20 -0400, Robatoy <[email protected]>
wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
> Prometheus <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>[snipperized for brevity]
>
>> One of the salesmen
>> set a cardboard box full of faucets in one of them on top of a thin
>> layer of drywall dust when I was working, and it left a bunch of fine
>> scratches that basically destroyed the look of the entire tub. I know
>> you were referring to joint strength previously, but is the surface
>> really desirable for a situation where dishes are going to get slid
>> around, and may be used as a cutting board by some careless person
>> sometime down the road?
>
>The first question would be: was it really acrylic? Because, if it was,
>it can be sanded out and re-polished.
>So many of those tubs are basically gel-coat and fibre-glass that
>refinishing becomes a lot trickier.
Boy, I hope it was- they were charging a mint for the suckers, and
calling them acrylic. I'm sure it was possible to sand out and
repolish them, but I was just amazed by how easily it got scratched.
>All those types of counter tops will scratch. The polyester leaving
>white scratches, the acrylic tends to be less obvious. To a lesser
>extent, so will granite. The bottom of so many dishes are downright
>abrasive like a sanding stone.
>The choice of colour/pattern and the use of decorative trivets alleviate
>most of those scratches.
You're probably right there- it just seems like such a shame that such
expensive products can be damaged so easily. The case I sited was a
really highly polished bright white, so the small scratches really
showed up because they dulled the flowing lines of the tub.
>I tell my customers just to accept the fact that it will scratch, and
>ignore them. Then in a year or two, when it get really ugly, call me and
>I will refinish to the same standard as the day it left my shop..aka..
>like new.
>
>It's funny, the last two tops I just installed were Pebble Ebony Staron
>and Onyx Black Staron. Both in front of windows, both semi-gloss.
>Both customers were told in no uncertain terms about the way they will
>look in a year. Neither were put off by that. One said "There will
>likely be some stone-chips on my new ML500 by the end of summer as well."
>
>The other: "It's a working surface fur chrissakes, of course it's going
>to get all marked up...but should there be a party it can be restored,
> right?"
Whew- people with considerably more money than me, I'd guess. But
while we're on the subject of countertops, and since you seem to have
some expertise, what do you suggest for a guy with a budget that wants
something a little different. I was thinking that quarried slate
might be interesting, but I have no idea how well it would work as a
counter. I actually am not looking for anything overly glossy- the
kitchen floor is being redone in cork when I get around to it, and the
cabinets have nice maple doors (spalted and figured veneer from
god-only-knows where) so I'd like to keep that sort of organic look to
match it.