Router speed for dovetails

Speed change won't help. Plywood splinters. A backer board would help. Box
joints are better cut on the tablesaw or router table. That way, you can
adjust the fit.

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a Keller dovetail system and was trying to make some box joints
> in 3/4 baltic birch (until now I have only done dovetails in solid
> wood without
> many problems with splintering) The box joints splintered quite badly
> in the
> baltic birch making them useless. I was routing at a fast speed. Will
> a slower
> speed cause less splintering and pulling of the veneer off? By the
> way, the
> new Whiteside bit I purchased for box cutting, sold
> as a 9/16 cutting diameter, turned out to be 39/64th in diameter,
> which made my
> splintering problem moot.
>

I used 1/2" Baltic Birch for drawers and with a backer had no
problems. I used the PC690 and Keller setup.

On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 02:20:53 GMT, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Speed change won't help. Plywood splinters. A backer board would help. Box
>joints are better cut on the tablesaw or router table. That way, you can
>adjust the fit.
>
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I have a Keller dovetail system and was trying to make some box joints
>> in 3/4 baltic birch (until now I have only done dovetails in solid
>> wood without
>> many problems with splintering) The box joints splintered quite badly
>> in the
>> baltic birch making them useless. I was routing at a fast speed. Will
>> a slower
>> speed cause less splintering and pulling of the veneer off? By the
>> way, the
>> new Whiteside bit I purchased for box cutting, sold
>> as a 9/16 cutting diameter, turned out to be 39/64th in diameter,
>> which made my
>> splintering problem moot.
>>
>