Having abandoned my earlier proposed kitchen cabinet door dovetail
joints on the advice of several on the wreck I wonder if you could
critique this new option. Strong enough? Weaknesses? Here is a link to
a drawing
http://www.myfilestash.com/userfiles/mike72903/joint2.JPG
I realize that, again the top rail will need to have a
rabbet rather than a groove for mounting a panel. Your knowledge,
experience and opinions appreciated.
Mike
In article <[email protected]>,
Mike in Arkansas <[email protected]> wrote:
> Weaknesses?
Sketch in the grain direction and you'll see it.
Sliding dovetail cabinet door assembly and method:
http://www.dewalt.com/us/articles/article.asp?Site=woodworking&ID=511
__________________________________________________________________
Mike in Arkansas wrote:
> Having abandoned my earlier proposed kitchen cabinet door dovetail
> joints on the advice of several on the wreck I wonder if you could
> critique this new option. Strong enough? Weaknesses? Here is a link to
> a drawing
> http://www.myfilestash.com/userfiles/mike72903/joint2.JPG
> I realize that, again the top rail will need to have a
> rabbet rather than a groove for mounting a panel. Your knowledge,
> experience and opinions appreciated.
>
> Mike
Pat, thanks for the input. What I'm trying to do is put the dovetails
on the front of the frame so they will be visible so people will be so
very impressed with my craftsmanship :). Leuf, I'm going to study your
proposal some. My impression of what your saying is to go ahead and
make the dovetails per my original submission. Then join the rail and
stile and make a deep mortice through both parts. This would remove
some of the dovetail which would then only be visible on the top and
back and would be purely decorational. Am I understanding correctly?
What is a beadlock jig? The constrasting colored wood you are saying
to use would be visible on the edge of the stile? Is that correct?
Regards, Mike
Mike in Arkansas wrote:
> Okay, I see. I was so concerned about solving the first problem, I
> failed to see this. I guess I'll just use m and t
You give up that easy? Whatever happened to beating your head aginst
the wall until one or the other gave up the ghost?! ;)
As an alternative, you could kill several birds with one stone by
laminating the rails and stiles. You'd get your exposed decorative
dovetail, you could use contrasting wood which would give an
interesting effect on the edge of the door, it would solve the problem
of grain direction and joint strength _and_ you'd be making a lot more
work for yourself!
R
Howdy!
In article <[email protected]>,
Mike in Arkansas <[email protected]> wrote:
>Pat, thanks for the input. What I'm trying to do is put the dovetails
>on the front of the frame so they will be visible so people will be so
>very impressed with my craftsmanship :). Leuf, I'm going to study your
OK. I sense that you are straining to find some way to put a
dovetail in sight to show off. Putting the dovetail on the
corner as you have tried seems to be gratuitous misuse of a
dovetail. It won't impress someone who knows what's going on.
Consider, if you must, putting the dovetail along the long
axis of the rail and stile. That means that the end stiles
go in from the top and bottom. That maximizes the strength
of the dovetail, but it does make the joint invisible.
The interior stiles can have visible dovetails.
yours,
Michael
--
Michael and MJ Houghton | Herveus d'Ormonde and Megan O'Donnelly
[email protected] | White Wolf and the Phoenix narrowwares
Bowie, MD, USA | http://whitewolfandphoenix.com
Proud member of the SCA Internet Whitewash Squad
Mike in Arkansas wrote:
> Having abandoned my earlier proposed kitchen cabinet door dovetail
> joints on the advice of several on the wreck I wonder if you could
> critique this new option. Strong enough? Weaknesses? Here is a link to
> a drawing
> http://www.myfilestash.com/userfiles/mike72903/joint2.JPG
Your "pins" are cutting across the grain, are they not? Eck.
Maybe the other way would be better. Even then, the bottom of the stile
is going to be fragile.
er
--
email not valid
On 11 May 2006 21:10:37 -0700, "Mike in Arkansas"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Okay, I see. I was so concerned about solving the first problem, I
>failed to see this. I guess I'll just use m and t
>Thanks, Mike
Just in case I wasn't clear in the previous thread, this is what I was
talking about with reinforcing it with a loose through tenon:
http://www.krtwood.com/dovetail.jpg
You could use something like the beadlock jig to make the mortise
through both pieces at once with the dovetail assembled, then square
it off half an inch or so deep. Leave the beadlock tenon short and
cover it with a contrasting wood. The dovetail would be only
decorative, but it would look cool.
-Leuf
On 12 May 2006 15:12:19 -0700, "Mike in Arkansas"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>My impression of what your saying is to go ahead and
>make the dovetails per my original submission. Then join the rail and
>stile and make a deep mortice through both parts. This would remove
>some of the dovetail which would then only be visible on the top and
>back and would be purely decorational. Am I understanding correctly?
>What is a beadlock jig? The constrasting colored wood you are saying
>to use would be visible on the edge of the stile? Is that correct?
Yep, you've got it. The beadlock jig is basically just a dowel jig
that allows you to drill overlapping holes. They sell premade tenon
stock that fits in the resulting hole, or a router bit you can use to
make your own.
http://www.beadlock.com/
As you can see it makes an odd shaped hole that I don't think you'd
want to see exposed on the edges, so I suggested covering it up. You
could do it with traditional mortises, but it would be deep, and might
be awkward to do with the dovetails already cut (and the same for
cutting the mortise first then trying to do the dovetails). So I
figure this is the easiest way to do it, you'd be able to drill it all
in one shot.
-Leuf