Thinning poly

"Mike G" <[email protected]> writes:
>For any finish, whatever the directions say to use for clean up can be used
>for a thinner.
except soap of course.... ;)

What mike is saying is that most all finishes are carried by a
solvent. Often that same solvant is used as at least part of clean up.

Is some cases that solvent is water, others a petroleum derivitive,
still others an alcohol. (This covers nearly all... i don't personally
know (or i can't think of any) that are not one of these three...)

good luck.
--
be safe.
flip
Verso l'esterno! Verso l'esterno! Deamons di ignoranza.

"Mike G" <[email protected]> writes:
>A good synopsis but you have to be careful with that word solvent.
doh.... yup.... i guess a better word would have been carrier or vehicle.

Apologies for the confusion.

--
be safe.
flip
Verso l'esterno! Verso l'esterno! Deamons di ignoranza.

Mineral spirits.

--
The software said it ran under Windows 98/NT/2000, or better.
So I installed it on Linux...
"Gfretwell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What do you guys use to thin polyurethane?

On 30 Sep 2003 03:28:20 GMT, [email protected] (Gfretwell) wrote:

>What do you guys use to thin polyurethane?

Do you have oil or water based poly? What does the can say to thin it
with?

Barry

A good synopsis but you have to be careful with that word solvent.

For shellac and lacquer their thinner is alcohol and lacquer thinner
respectively. They are also solvents for those finishes. That is, they will
soften and or dissolve the finish.

The thinner for varnish is mineral spirits/paint thinner. However mineral
spirits/paint thinner is not a solvent for varnish. It will have no effect
on a cured finish.

Thinner for most water based products is, duh, water. But it is never a
solvent for a cured water based finish.

For those trying spraying for the first time the above is especially
important.

Let your gun sit too long with shellac or lacquer in it and you can always
get it clean by spraying the appropriate solvent/thinner through it. Let a
varnish sit too long and cure in the gun and you have trouble in river city.
You'll have to get out the dental picks and pray you don't mess up the
needle/nozzle and or internal parts of the gun. There is no solvent for
varnish unless you consider extremely harsh strippers a solvent. I don't and
I also would not think of spraying that stuff out into the air, it's nasty.

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Philip Edward Lewis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Mike G" <[email protected]> writes:
> >For any finish, whatever the directions say to use for clean up can be
used
> >for a thinner.
> except soap of course.... ;)
>
> What mike is saying is that most all finishes are carried by a
> solvent. Often that same solvant is used as at least part of clean up.
>
> Is some cases that solvent is water, others a petroleum derivitive,
> still others an alcohol. (This covers nearly all... i don't personally
> know (or i can't think of any) that are not one of these three...)
>
> good luck.
> --
> be safe.
> flip
> Verso l'esterno! Verso l'esterno! Deamons di ignoranza.
>
>

"Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
(snip)
Let a
> varnish sit too long and cure in the gun and you have trouble in river
city.
> You'll have to get out the dental picks and pray you don't mess up the
> needle/nozzle and or internal parts of the gun. There is no solvent for
> varnish unless you consider extremely harsh strippers a solvent. I don't
and
> I also would not think of spraying that stuff out into the air, it's
nasty.
(snip)

Soaking the spraygun parts in lacquer thinner won't dissolve the poly but
makes it swell up and get rubbery and it is much easier to remove it.
DAMHIKT


--
"Shut up and keep diggen"
Jerry

That's what I use. Use it sparingly!!! Doesn't take much to get it flowing
without becoming runny.


"David Binkowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Mineral spirits.
>
> --
> The software said it ran under Windows 98/NT/2000, or better.
> So I installed it on Linux...
> "Gfretwell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > What do you guys use to thin polyurethane?
>
>
>

For any finish, whatever the directions say to use for clean up can be used
for a thinner.

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Gfretwell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What do you guys use to thin polyurethane?

Not a bad thought Jerry but I would urge caution in using that method for
the body of the gun itself. While the fluid and air passages inside the
actual body of the gun are short there are internal glands inside the body
that could be damaged, depending on their composition, by lacquer thinner.
Complete disassembly and removal of those glands could be in order before
soaking the gun's body.

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Micro*" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> (snip)
> Let a
> > varnish sit too long and cure in the gun and you have trouble in river
> city.
> > You'll have to get out the dental picks and pray you don't mess up the
> > needle/nozzle and or internal parts of the gun. There is no solvent for
> > varnish unless you consider extremely harsh strippers a solvent. I don't
> and
> > I also would not think of spraying that stuff out into the air, it's
> nasty.
> (snip)
>
> Soaking the spraygun parts in lacquer thinner won't dissolve the poly but
> makes it swell up and get rubbery and it is much easier to remove it.
> DAMHIKT
>
>
> --
> "Shut up and keep diggen"
> Jerry
>

"Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Not a bad thought Jerry but I would urge caution in using that method for
> the body of the gun itself. While the fluid and air passages inside the
> actual body of the gun are short there are internal glands inside the body
> that could be damaged, depending on their composition, by lacquer thinner.
> Complete disassembly and removal of those glands could be in order before
> soaking the gun's body.

Agreed, I usually only soak the needle and nozzle. The rest of the parts
usually come pretty clean with thinner(before it dries). The cup and cam
holding device(whatever it's called) gets caked up pretty bad after awhile
and needs to be soaked. Also the air vent in the top of the cup needs to be
kept clean. I thin the poly 20% and only use 20 PSI air, with a little
practice you can get a great job. One hint, listen to the pisssst of the
gun, if it starts to whistle or change its sound, it's time to clean the
nozzle. I keep a rag wet in thinner handy and wipe the nozzle when this
happens.


--
"Shut up and keep diggen"
Jerry