On Oct 25, 7:33=A0pm, trvlnmny <[email protected]> wrote:
> What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
> Thanks.
What others have emphasized. Do not use open-pore woods, such as red
oak, ash, bass or mahogany. They tend to soak liquids. I would add to
not use exotic woods that contain "sand" or minerals that will dull
knives, such as teak. I have had good luck with cherry, maple, walnut
(all of which have nice contrast with one another), and beech. I like
the pattern/color (or lack of) of beech for boards.
You did not ask about finish, but I really like food-grade mineral
oil, which is sold at the pharmacy for "constipation" problems.There
are other finishes, but they tend to be more expensive, and, at least
in my experience, not any better.
Finally, research done by the U of Wisconsin-Madison shows that wood
boards are far superior to composite boards in eliminating bacteria.
Pierre
On Oct 29, 9:03=A0am, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Ive never used it, but I think bees wax could work well maybe melted
> into some mineral oil and applied hot if you insist on complicating
> things.
> I am around Ipe a lot. I would never use it for a cutting board. The
> stuff stinks, it stains, it dulls tools.
Dulls tools, eh? Nothing like dragging your $100.00 W=FCsthof across
that stuff then.
I know absolutely nothing about Ipe, but I won't be using that for a
cutting board.
Thanks for the input.
On Oct 26, 3:57=A0pm, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Oct 26, 3:53=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > On Oct 26, 3:39=A0pm, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > Josepi wrote:
> > > > Taht, IMHO, is the confusion. The research showed some toxic compou=
nd
> > > > that eliminates bacteria in maple. If red oak contained a similiar
> > > > compound it may be ideal for that application. The open pore thing =
is
> > > > another issue to be considered, of course.
>
> > > > I have tried all kinds of oil on my maple cutting board. It doesn't
> > > > work well. Heat the baord in the oven for an hour (gently) and rub =
it
> > > > with a good saturated fat (Crisco shortening) and you won't have to
> > > > do it again for ten years, if ever.
>
> Every time I read that part I feel a brain cell die. =A0The saturated
> fat is between his ears.
I don't read his stuff anymore. I only see his stuff when somebody
actually bothers to quote it...=85=85
I gave up on him.
>
> > > Can I use lard? =A0Or better yet, bacon fat?
>
> > Maybe you can talk a lyposuction joint to slip you a jug or two?
>
> Already being done.http://www.wired.com/magazine/2010/10/ff_futureofbreas=
ts/all/1
>
> R
"J. Clarke" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> Why not red oak?
White Oak has closed cells, red oak open. In wine casks and
boatbuilding it makes a big difference--red oak leaks, white oak
doesn't. Dunno if it makes a real difference in cutting boards or not.
******************************************************************
The fact that it leaks won't make a difference in use, but it give plenty of
space to absorb raw chicken juice and the like. If you take a small pice
of oak you can blow through it. Lots of space for bacteria to hide.
On Oct 29, 6:00=A0am, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] says...
>
>
>
> > On 10/28/10 4:53 PM, Josepi wrote:
> > > Do you always end a conversation with an attention troll?
>
> > > Drink some petroleum products and tell us how that goes. Tell us how =
much
> > > petroleum product you consume each year and how it how it give you di=
arhea
> > > because it is good for you.
>
> > So that would would be a NO on the googling, huh?
>
> Josepi would be much happier if he applied some mineral oil to the
> broomstick before he inserted it.
Ive never used it, but I think bees wax could work well maybe melted
into some mineral oil and applied hot if you insist on complicating
things.
I am around Ipe a lot. I would never use it for a cutting board. The
stuff stinks, it stains, it dulls tools. All the qualities that make
it great for outdoor and a few other projects make it a terrible
choice for a cutting board, at least one that will actually be used.
This has all been figured out years ago, why not keep it simple. A
relatively flavorless tight grained wood, oiled as needed with an oil
that won't turn ranced (mineral). sheesh
On Oct 26, 7:56=A0am, Steve Turner <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On 10/26/2010 4:52 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > "J. Clarke" wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
>
> > In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> >> Why not red oak?
>
> > White Oak has closed cells, red oak open. In wine casks and
> > boatbuilding it makes a big difference--red oak leaks, white oak
> > doesn't. Dunno if it makes a real difference in cutting boards or not.
>
> > ******************************************************************
>
> > The fact that it leaks won't make a difference in use, but it give plen=
ty of
> > space to absorb raw chicken juice and the like. If you take a small pic=
e of oak
> > you can blow through it. Lots of space for bacteria to hide.
>
> Hold on there, you said "oak" instead of "red oak". =A0You can't take a p=
iece of
> white oak and "blow through it"; not like you can with red oak.
>
> I'm reminded of our kitchen table, which is one of those "wife buys a tab=
le at
> the local unfinished furniture outlet because husband says he doesn't hav=
e time
> to make one" things, yet I got stuck with putting the finish on it. =A0Of=
course,
> it had to be stained to match our existing cabinetry so I was using whate=
ver
> stain the builder had used (Minwax "Gunstock", as I recall). =A0The table=
's made
> of red oak, and whenever I stain any open pored wood I like to go over it=
with
> the air gun while it's still wet to get all the stain out of the pores
> (otherwise it will continue to weep out over days, until the stuff finall=
y
> "dries"). =A0I got a big kick out of blowing the air gun into the open po=
res at
> one end of the table and watching the stain come out of the pores at the =
other
> end, four or five feet away! =A0Try THAT with white oak...
>
> --
> Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
> sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
> To reply, eat the taco.http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
First thing I do to red oak is to fill the pores with filler, some of
those fillers are pre-coloured and work extremely well.
Then stain, sanding sealer, lacquer x many.
I thoroughly dislike red oak..... with a passion. Stuff is just plain
nasty. I can't remember how many commercial projects my shop has built
over the years, always on architects' specs, because none of us would
ever volunteer.
Some people love it and that is why God gave us so many trees to chose
from.
When it comes to cutting boards, purely from a performance standpoint,
my choice would be hard maple endgrain, or beech.
On Oct 26, 1:36=A0pm, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/26/2010 12:15 PM, RicodJour wrote:
>
> >http://www.johnboos.com/content/1/54
> > Boos has only been doing it for 130 years. =A0I'm sure they'd appreciat=
e
> > the pointers.
>
> What he said.
>
> IMO, the best hard maple and walnut cutting boards, butcher blocks, and
> counter tops available, bar none.
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 4/15/2010
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
I completely agree. I haven't done a lot of Boos installs, but those I
did were done with a flawless product. Pricy as hell up here in Maple
Land so we learned to go local for block. Still amongst my favourite
countertops.
On Oct 26, 3:53=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Oct 26, 3:39=A0pm, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Josepi wrote:
> > > Taht, IMHO, is the confusion. The research showed some toxic compound
> > > that eliminates bacteria in maple. If red oak contained a similiar
> > > compound it may be ideal for that application. The open pore thing is
> > > another issue to be considered, of course.
>
> > > I have tried all kinds of oil on my maple cutting board. It doesn't
> > > work well. Heat the baord in the oven for an hour (gently) and rub it
> > > with a good saturated fat (Crisco shortening) and you won't have to
> > > do it again for ten years, if ever.
Every time I read that part I feel a brain cell die. The saturated
fat is between his ears.
> > Can I use lard? =A0Or better yet, bacon fat?
>
> Maybe you can talk a lyposuction joint to slip you a jug or two?
Already being done.
http://www.wired.com/magazine/2010/10/ff_futureofbreasts/all/1
R
On Oct 29, 12:53=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/29/10 8:41 AM, Robatoy wrote:
>
>
>
> > I use whale oil boiled with seal blubber and tinted with oak rust.
>
> between sips....... (pheeew)
>
> --
>
> =A0 -MIKE-
>
> =A0 "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
> =A0 =A0 =A0--Elvin Jones =A0(1927-2004)
> =A0 --
> =A0http://mikedrums.com
> =A0 [email protected]
> =A0 ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Two seals walk into a bar.
Bartender says: "what can get for you?"
One seal says: "anything but a Canadian Club."
On 10/26/2010 10:19 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 16:50:16 -0700, Doug Winterburn
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 10/25/2010 04:33 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
>>> What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
>>> Thanks.
>>
>> Non porous such as hard maple and cherry.
>
> Not oleander?
Maybe for your Mother-in-Law ;-)
On Oct 25, 11:39=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/25/10 10:29 PM, Josepi wrote:
>
> > Why not red oak?
>
> It would corrode your knives, of course. =A0 :-p
>
Monitor, keyboard, desk, etc....
On Oct 29, 9:03=A0am, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Ive never used it, but I think bees wax could work well maybe melted
> into some mineral oil and applied hot if you insist on complicating
> things.
That's what the Boos butcher block "miracle cream" is - beeswax and
mineral oil. The bees do the miracle, and Boos sells it.
R
Josepi wrote:
> Why not red oak?
End grain red oak sucks up liquids like a sponge.
(Name and sig down at the bottom where it should be)
__________________________
> "Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> It's not unheard of for cutting boards to be made of white oak, but
> red oak would be a definite no-no.
>
>
>
>
> On 10/25/2010 9:52 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> I've use maple, cherry, walnut. They are closed grain and durable.
> Avoid open
> grained woods like oak.
>
>
>
>
> "trvlnmny" wrote in message
> news:4d364674-85da-48a7-a9d7-3b0e311c01c5@r14g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
> What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
> Thanks.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Oct 29, 9:26=A0am, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Oct 29, 9:03=A0am, "[email protected]"
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Ive never used it, but I think bees wax could work well maybe melted
> > into some mineral oil and applied hot if you insist on complicating
> > things.
>
> That's what the Boos butcher block "miracle cream" is - beeswax and
> mineral oil. =A0The bees do the miracle, and Boos sells it.
>
> R
Boos makes fantastic stuff. I promoted their products many years ago.
Then a Canadian distributor got his greedy ass in the middle of the
product flow and walked off with all the fun(profit) *I* was having
and priced themselves right out of the running in most quotes. I now
use a guy who is 98% there in terms of quality, way better pricing,
but not as much selection...but he won't finish his product. With all
the peanut-product scares, he doesn't want to deal with liability
issues where he could be blamed should something go awry.
I use whale oil boiled with seal blubber and tinted with oak rust.
On Oct 27, 12:53=A0am, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Is mineral oil OK for human consumption? I was never sure what it was,
> exactly.
Duh.
> Shortening, for people that bake, will fill the holes and stay put and ne=
ver
> go rancid without refrigeration. Any vegetable oils require refrigeration
> and expire for human consumption once exxposed to air. Animal fats go ran=
cid
> in similar situations.
>
> I tried a lof of different oils on mine
I'm sure you did lof a lot. I am.
R
On Oct 26, 1:54=A0pm, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/26/2010 12:47 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
> > trvlnmny wrote:
>
> >> What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
>
> > ---------------------------
> > Quarter sawn timbers from the polypropylene tree.
>
> I'll stick with the real thing:
>
> http://faculty.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/faculty/docliver/Research/cuttingbo...
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 4/15/2010
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
I had a copy of that in my drawer at the shop. When they say plastic,
they mean polyethylene. The only thing that is good for, is for the
knives.
My pre-2003 shop was surrounded by butchers who had problems with
inspectors because they used poly boards. Many butchers have asked us
to refinish poly boards, something I haven't been willing to do. One
of my guys did do it on the side, and his belt-sander smelled like a
Happy Meal=99 from that day on.
Why not red oak?
"Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
It's not unheard of for cutting boards to be made of white oak, but red oak
would be a definite no-no.
On 10/25/2010 9:52 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
I've use maple, cherry, walnut. They are closed grain and durable. Avoid
open
grained woods like oak.
"trvlnmny" wrote in message
news:4d364674-85da-48a7-a9d7-3b0e311c01c5@r14g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
Thanks.
Josepi wrote:
> Is mineral oil OK for human consumption? I was never sure what it was,
> exactly.
>
> Shortening, for people that bake, will fill the holes and stay put
> and never go rancid without refrigeration. Any vegetable oils require
> refrigeration and expire for human consumption once exxposed to air.
> Animal fats go rancid in similar situations.
Uhhh...Crisco is made from vegetable oils. Cottonseed and soybean,
specifically.
> I tried a lof of different oils on mine and the Crisco actually
> stayed in the board.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 10/29/10 8:41 AM, Robatoy wrote:
>>
>> I use whale oil boiled with seal blubber and tinted with oak rust.
>
> between sips....... (pheeew)
The sipping ads the secret ingredient, saliva, and is a precursor to the
application process... spitting/spraying it all over the top of the cutting
board.
On 10/26/2010 12:47 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> trvlnmny wrote:
>
>> What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
>
> ---------------------------
> Quarter sawn timbers from the polypropylene tree.
I'll stick with the real thing:
http://faculty.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/faculty/docliver/Research/cuttingboard.htm
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
Do you always end a conversation with an attention troll?
Drink some petroleum products and tell us how that goes. Tell us how much
petroleum product you consume each year and how it how it give you diarhea
because it is good for you.
"RicodJour" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Do you get your stupid by pill or injection? I realize that you'd
prefer to remain clueless, as you're so good at it and you have a lot
of time invested, but on the odd chance...DAGS "mineral oil cutting
board".
On Oct 28, 4:53 pm, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> With mineral oil being a toxic petroleum product, I would stay away from
> that one. Leave it for your meachines.
That's the odd thing about your posts. You can go from discussion to
complete asshole in two seconds.
Do you ever think before you jump up and down and start being a omplete
jerk?
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
You just make this stuff up, don't you?
On 10/26/10 10:07 AM, Josepi wrote:
I have tried all kinds of oil on my maple cutting board. It doesn't work
well. Heat the baord in the oven for an hour (gently) and rub it with a good
saturated fat (Crisco shortening) and you won't have to do it again for ten
years, if ever. That also should fill some pores. Oils can go rancid and
become toxic to humans when left out in air and warm.
Well definitely my wood of choice for furniture (and white ash which I have
mixed, previously).
Perhaps a knife block from red oak that could self sharpen your knives with
it's corrosive properties, well tamed? (apologies, clare)
Reminds me, I was finally getting around to some shelves in garage
(temporary workshop while finishing house) and putting a multitude of equip.
cases away, yesterday. I was just about to toss an old miter saw case and I
thought I would open it, just in case. There was the 80 tooth 10" blade I
bought at half price from $120-130, years ago with only a few small trim
jobs on it. Scanned the teeth for chips...none....what a find. Thought it
was done years ago due to framing and blade change laziness. Got mostly trim
to do in the house this winter, yet.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Monitor, keyboard, desk, etc....
On Oct 25, 11:39 pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
It would corrode your knives, of course. :-p
On 10/25/10 10:29 PM, Josepi wrote:
Why not red oak?
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 10/25/10 10:29 PM, Josepi wrote:
>> Why not red oak?
>>
>
> It would corrode your knives, of course. :-p
>
Having had my hands stained from working with white oak I'd think that the
corrosion risk from tannic acid would be just as bad if not worse with white
oak. The hand staining was particularly bad while making and working with
white oak basket splints at Colonial Williamsburg but I've also had them
stained by air dried white oak boards that had gotten wet.
John
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> Why not red oak?
White Oak has closed cells, red oak open. In wine casks and
boatbuilding it makes a big difference--red oak leaks, white oak
doesn't. Dunno if it makes a real difference in cutting boards or not.
> "Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> It's not unheard of for cutting boards to be made of white oak, but red oak
> would be a definite no-no.
>
>
>
>
> On 10/25/2010 9:52 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> I've use maple, cherry, walnut. They are closed grain and durable. Avoid
> open
> grained woods like oak.
>
>
>
>
> "trvlnmny" wrote in message
> news:4d364674-85da-48a7-a9d7-3b0e311c01c5@r14g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
> What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
> Thanks.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> Maple was classically chosen for it's antibacterial properties, also. Cedar,
> similiar uses for moths and insects.
>
> Red oak sounds like it may fit that bill also, having some toxic properties.
One that I've often thought would be interesting is ipe. The stuff will
take a pretty good polish all by its lonesome, the yellow dust that
comes out is supposedly pretty much benign--even helps some forms of
cancer (they tested it for that and found it effective, but no better
than existing treatments so they didn't develop it further), it has the
decay resistance of concrete (and darned near as hard), only real
downside I can think of is that it won't take glue worth crap.
> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:236051fb-2edc-4aa6-b8e9-6212dfb5605c@a36g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
> First thing I do to red oak is to fill the pores with filler, some of
> those fillers are pre-coloured and work extremely well.
> Then stain, sanding sealer, lacquer x many.
> I thoroughly dislike red oak..... with a passion. Stuff is just plain
> nasty. I can't remember how many commercial projects my shop has built
> over the years, always on architects' specs, because none of us would
> ever volunteer.
> Some people love it and that is why God gave us so many trees to chose
> from.
>
> When it comes to cutting boards, purely from a performance standpoint,
> my choice would be hard maple endgrain, or beech.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> On 10/26/2010 5:07 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
> > In article<[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> >>
> >> Maple was classically chosen for it's antibacterial properties, also. Cedar,
> >> similiar uses for moths and insects.
> >>
> >> Red oak sounds like it may fit that bill also, having some toxic properties.
> >
> > One that I've often thought would be interesting is ipe. The stuff will
> > take a pretty good polish all by its lonesome, the yellow dust that
> > comes out is supposedly pretty much benign--even helps some forms of
> > cancer (they tested it for that and found it effective, but no better
> > than existing treatments so they didn't develop it further), it has the
> > decay resistance of concrete (and darned near as hard), only real
> > downside I can think of is that it won't take glue worth crap.
>
> Wonder how fast Ipe would dull your kitchen knives?
>
> Of course, as a Texan I have to put in my plug for Mesquite; it make a great
> cutting board. I made one for my sister-in-law about 10 years ago and she's
> still using it, loves it, and wouldn't trade it for anything else.
Local yard used to have Argentinian black mesquite--the stuff was lovely
and wonderful to work with. Don't have it anymore though. If I'd known
that they were going to discontinue it I'd have filled up the garage.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> Has anyone considered the toxic effect ? Some wood is Toxic /
> dangerous. Many Rosewoods are that way in some level.
>
> Ipe in my program - The Wood Explorer - search for it on-line -
>
> is listed as 'some toxic effect' Generally light considering others.
I researched the toxicity a while back--a few people seem to be allergic
to the dust--otherwise it's like green bread mold--might not like it
very much but it won't hurt you and may do you a little good.
> In the list of uses - food vessels is not listed but construction is.
>
> Martin
>
>
> On 10/26/2010 7:37 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
> > On 10/26/2010 5:07 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
> >> In article<[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> >>>
> >>> Maple was classically chosen for it's antibacterial properties, also.
> >>> Cedar,
> >>> similiar uses for moths and insects.
> >>>
> >>> Red oak sounds like it may fit that bill also, having some toxic
> >>> properties.
> >>
> >> One that I've often thought would be interesting is ipe. The stuff will
> >> take a pretty good polish all by its lonesome, the yellow dust that
> >> comes out is supposedly pretty much benign--even helps some forms of
> >> cancer (they tested it for that and found it effective, but no better
> >> than existing treatments so they didn't develop it further), it has the
> >> decay resistance of concrete (and darned near as hard), only real
> >> downside I can think of is that it won't take glue worth crap.
> >
> > Wonder how fast Ipe would dull your kitchen knives?
> >
> > Of course, as a Texan I have to put in my plug for Mesquite; it make a
> > great cutting board. I made one for my sister-in-law about 10 years ago
> > and she's still using it, loves it, and wouldn't trade it for anything
> > else.
> >
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> Do you always end a conversation with an attention troll?
>
> Drink some petroleum products and tell us how that goes.
If you mean pharmaceutical grade mineral oil it goes fine.
> Tell us how much
> petroleum product you consume each year and how it how it give you diarhea
> because it is good for you.
The same way that 100 percent organic prunes give you diarrhea. So I
guess they aren't good for you either.
> "RicodJour" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> Do you get your stupid by pill or injection? I realize that you'd
> prefer to remain clueless, as you're so good at it and you have a lot
> of time invested, but on the odd chance...DAGS "mineral oil cutting
> board".
>
>
> On Oct 28, 4:53 pm, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > With mineral oil being a toxic petroleum product, I would stay away from
> > that one. Leave it for your meachines.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> Sorry, prunes do **NOT** give you diarhea unless you have an intorleance or
> allergy to them. They soften your stool like a good upholsterer only with
> fiber intake.
Eat a hundred of them and get back to us.
> Where do people get the idea that dietary fibre give your diarhea?
>
>
>
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> The same way that 100 percent organic prunes give you diarrhea. So I
> guess they aren't good for you either.
>
>
> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> > Tell us how much
> > petroleum product you consume each year and how it how it give you diarhea
> > because it is good for you.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> On 10/28/10 4:53 PM, Josepi wrote:
> > Do you always end a conversation with an attention troll?
> >
> > Drink some petroleum products and tell us how that goes. Tell us how much
> > petroleum product you consume each year and how it how it give you diarhea
> > because it is good for you.
> >
>
> So that would would be a NO on the googling, huh?
Josepi would be much happier if he applied some mineral oil to the
broomstick before he inserted it.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> On 10/29/10 8:30 AM, Robatoy wrote:
> > On Oct 29, 9:03 am, "[email protected]"
> >> I am around Ipe a lot. I would never use it for a cutting board. The
> >> stuff stinks, it stains, it dulls tools.
> >
> > I know absolutely nothing about Ipe,
>
> Tangent...
> I was in woodcraft and a few guys were talking about Ipe. They got into
> a discussion about how to pronounce it. One guys said, "I pronounce it
> eye-pay," the other guy said, "I pronounce it eepay," the third said, "I
> hear it's just pronounced like pipe." I was walking by and said, "I
> pronounce it, Brazilian Walnut."
Be careful with that because there is a very nice variety of walnut also
grown in Brazil (I remember seeing a great rack of boards 18 inches wide
and all heart backalong, right next to the cabinet-grade Ipe).
Sorry, prunes do **NOT** give you diarhea unless you have an intorleance or
allergy to them. They soften your stool like a good upholsterer only with
fiber intake.
Where do people get the idea that dietary fibre give your diarhea?
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
The same way that 100 percent organic prunes give you diarrhea. So I
guess they aren't good for you either.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> Tell us how much
> petroleum product you consume each year and how it how it give you diarhea
> because it is good for you.
Maple was classically chosen for it's antibacterial properties, also. Cedar,
similiar uses for moths and insects.
Red oak sounds like it may fit that bill also, having some toxic properties.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:236051fb-2edc-4aa6-b8e9-6212dfb5605c@a36g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
First thing I do to red oak is to fill the pores with filler, some of
those fillers are pre-coloured and work extremely well.
Then stain, sanding sealer, lacquer x many.
I thoroughly dislike red oak..... with a passion. Stuff is just plain
nasty. I can't remember how many commercial projects my shop has built
over the years, always on architects' specs, because none of us would
ever volunteer.
Some people love it and that is why God gave us so many trees to chose
from.
When it comes to cutting boards, purely from a performance standpoint,
my choice would be hard maple endgrain, or beech.
"Josepi" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
Is mineral oil OK for human consumption? I was never sure what it was,
exactly.
***********************************************
Yes, it is used in some pharmaceuticals and in large quantities, works as a
laxative. I tis by far the first choice for cutting boards.
"trvlnmny" wrote in message
news:4d364674-85da-48a7-a9d7-3b0e311c01c5@r14g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
Thanks.
********************************************
I've use maple, cherry, walnut. They are closed grain and durable. Avoid
open grained woods like oak.
Has anyone considered the toxic effect ? Some wood is Toxic /
dangerous. Many Rosewoods are that way in some level.
Ipe in my program - The Wood Explorer - search for it on-line -
is listed as 'some toxic effect' Generally light considering others.
In the list of uses - food vessels is not listed but construction is.
Martin
On 10/26/2010 7:37 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
> On 10/26/2010 5:07 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
>> In article<[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>>>
>>> Maple was classically chosen for it's antibacterial properties, also.
>>> Cedar,
>>> similiar uses for moths and insects.
>>>
>>> Red oak sounds like it may fit that bill also, having some toxic
>>> properties.
>>
>> One that I've often thought would be interesting is ipe. The stuff will
>> take a pretty good polish all by its lonesome, the yellow dust that
>> comes out is supposedly pretty much benign--even helps some forms of
>> cancer (they tested it for that and found it effective, but no better
>> than existing treatments so they didn't develop it further), it has the
>> decay resistance of concrete (and darned near as hard), only real
>> downside I can think of is that it won't take glue worth crap.
>
> Wonder how fast Ipe would dull your kitchen knives?
>
> Of course, as a Texan I have to put in my plug for Mesquite; it make a
> great cutting board. I made one for my sister-in-law about 10 years ago
> and she's still using it, loves it, and wouldn't trade it for anything
> else.
>
Taht, IMHO, is the confusion. The research showed some toxic compound that
eliminates bacteria in maple. If red oak contained a similiar compound it
may be ideal for that application. The open pore thing is another issue to
be considered, of course.
I have tried all kinds of oil on my maple cutting board. It doesn't work
well. Heat the baord in the oven for an hour (gently) and rub it with a good
saturated fat (Crisco shortening) and you won't have to do it again for ten
years, if ever. That also should fill some pores. Oils can go rancid and
become toxic to humans when left out in air and warm.
"pierre" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:008e4237-0471-4291-839a-a702c15bfffd@e14g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
What others have emphasized. Do not use open-pore woods, such as red
oak, ash, bass or mahogany. They tend to soak liquids. I would add to
not use exotic woods that contain "sand" or minerals that will dull
knives, such as teak. I have had good luck with cherry, maple, walnut
(all of which have nice contrast with one another), and beech. I like
the pattern/color (or lack of) of beech for boards.
You did not ask about finish, but I really like food-grade mineral
oil, which is sold at the pharmacy for "constipation" problems.There
are other finishes, but they tend to be more expensive, and, at least
in my experience, not any better.
Finally, research done by the U of Wisconsin-Madison shows that wood
boards are far superior to composite boards in eliminating bacteria.
Pierre
"Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 10/26/2010 5:46 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
>>
>> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> On 10/25/10 10:29 PM, Josepi wrote:
>>>> Why not red oak?
>>>>
>>>
>>> It would corrode your knives, of course. :-p
>>>
>>
>> Having had my hands stained from working with white oak I'd think that
>> the
>> corrosion risk from tannic acid would be just as bad if not worse with
>> white
>> oak. The hand staining was particularly bad while making and working with
>> white
>> oak basket splints at Colonial Williamsburg but I've also had them
>> stained by
>> air dried white oak boards that had gotten wet.
>>
>> John
>
> The corrosion comment is a bit of a joke from another thread; you kinda
> had to be there. :-)
>
> Yes, tannin can be a bit of a problem, but it's not exclusive to white
> oak. I've gotten those purple-stained hands from various other species
> too. And if I could only remember what those species were, I'd be more
> than happy to list them... but I can't. :-)
>
Missed that thread....
My fingers used to be dark purple/brown to almost black from working with
green white oak all day in high humidity conditions... looked terrible!
John
"trvlnmny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:4d364674-85da-48a7-a9d7-3b0e311c01c5@r14g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
> What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
> Thanks.
End grain maple.
John
On Oct 28, 4:53=A0pm, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> With mineral oil being a toxic petroleum product, I would stay away from
> that one. Leave it for =A0your meachines.
Do you get your stupid by pill or injection? I realize that you'd
prefer to remain clueless, as you're so good at it and you have a lot
of time invested, but on the odd chance...DAGS "mineral oil cutting
board".
R
We were talking "porous" not "abrasive"
"Doug Winterburn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Maybe for your Mother-in-Law ;-)
On 10/26/2010 10:19 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 16:50:16 -0700, Doug Winterburn
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 10/25/2010 04:33 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
>>> What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
>>> Thanks.
>>
>> Non porous such as hard maple and cherry.
>
> Not oleander?
On Oct 28, 5:53=A0pm, "Josepi" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Do you always end a conversation with an attention troll?
>
> Drink some petroleum products and tell us how that goes. Tell us how much
> petroleum product you consume each year and how it how it give you diarhe=
a
> because it is good for you.
I realize you are the resident expert on diarrhea (of the keyboard
kind), but do you get diarrhea every time you eat out? Nearly every
restaurant you have ever been in oils their cutting boards with
mineral oil. It's the industry standard.
You are really clueless. You have a streak going - keep it up.
Here's another tidbit for you to ignore - from Wiki:
"Any given ChapStick may contain camphor, beeswax, menthol,
petrolatum, phenol, vitamin E, and aloe."
R
On Oct 26, 12:12=A0pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 10/26/10 10:07 AM, Josepi wrote:
>
> > I have tried all kinds of oil on my maple cutting board. It doesn't wor=
k
> > well. Heat the baord in the oven for an hour (gently) and rub it with a=
good
> > saturated fat (Crisco shortening) and you won't have to do it again for=
ten
> > years, if ever. That also should fill some pores. Oils can go rancid an=
d
> > become toxic to humans when left out in air and warm.
>
> You just make this stuff up, don't you?
He's an odd duck. 'sI can't tell if he's a trollish noob, or a
noobish troll, but the stuff he comes up with is priceless...or
worthless - really both. It's interesting that in all the centuries
of oiling cutting boards, he the one guy that can't get it to work.
Maybe he should start contacting all of those silly cutting board
manufacturers and set them straight.
http://www.mapleblock.com/detail/care--maintenance-42/
http://www.johnboos.com/content/1/54
Boos has only been doing it for 130 years. I'm sure they'd appreciate
the pointers.
R
On Oct 25, 6:33=A0pm, trvlnmny <[email protected]> wrote:
> What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
> Thanks.
I like Beech. Maple works too. I guess anything not too aromatic or
porous with some weight (density) to it would work. In my opinion most
Cherry and Walnut boards are too porous and soft. Mineral Oil is a
safe bet for finishing, does not turn rancid
On Oct 26, 3:39=A0pm, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Josepi wrote:
> > Taht, IMHO, is the confusion. The research showed some toxic compound
> > that eliminates bacteria in maple. If red oak contained a similiar
> > compound it may be ideal for that application. The open pore thing is
> > another issue to be considered, of course.
>
> > I have tried all kinds of oil on my maple cutting board. It doesn't
> > work well. Heat the baord in the oven for an hour (gently) and rub it
> > with a good saturated fat (Crisco shortening) and you won't have to
> > do it again for ten years, if ever.
>
> Can I use lard? =A0Or better yet, bacon fat?
>
Maybe you can talk a lyposuction joint to slip you a jug or two?
Josepi wrote:
> Taht, IMHO, is the confusion. The research showed some toxic compound
> that eliminates bacteria in maple. If red oak contained a similiar
> compound it may be ideal for that application. The open pore thing is
> another issue to be considered, of course.
>
> I have tried all kinds of oil on my maple cutting board. It doesn't
> work well. Heat the baord in the oven for an hour (gently) and rub it
> with a good saturated fat (Crisco shortening) and you won't have to
> do it again for ten years, if ever.
Can I use lard? Or better yet, bacon fat?
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Isn't mineral oil the one to use ?
Martin
On 10/26/2010 2:39 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> Josepi wrote:
>> Taht, IMHO, is the confusion. The research showed some toxic compound
>> that eliminates bacteria in maple. If red oak contained a similiar
>> compound it may be ideal for that application. The open pore thing is
>> another issue to be considered, of course.
>>
>> I have tried all kinds of oil on my maple cutting board. It doesn't
>> work well. Heat the baord in the oven for an hour (gently) and rub it
>> with a good saturated fat (Crisco shortening) and you won't have to
>> do it again for ten years, if ever.
>
> Can I use lard? Or better yet, bacon fat?
>
On 10/25/2010 9:52 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> "trvlnmny" wrote in message
> news:4d364674-85da-48a7-a9d7-3b0e311c01c5@r14g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
>
> What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
> Thanks.
>
> ********************************************
>
> I've use maple, cherry, walnut. They are closed grain and durable. Avoid open
> grained woods like oak.
It's not unheard of for cutting boards to be made of white oak, but red oak
would be a definite no-no.
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 10/25/10 10:29 PM, Josepi wrote:
> Why not red oak?
>
It would corrode your knives, of course. :-p
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/26/2010 4:52 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> "J. Clarke" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>>
>> Why not red oak?
>
> White Oak has closed cells, red oak open. In wine casks and
> boatbuilding it makes a big difference--red oak leaks, white oak
> doesn't. Dunno if it makes a real difference in cutting boards or not.
>
> ******************************************************************
>
> The fact that it leaks won't make a difference in use, but it give plenty of
> space to absorb raw chicken juice and the like. If you take a small pice of oak
> you can blow through it. Lots of space for bacteria to hide.
Hold on there, you said "oak" instead of "red oak". You can't take a piece of
white oak and "blow through it"; not like you can with red oak.
I'm reminded of our kitchen table, which is one of those "wife buys a table at
the local unfinished furniture outlet because husband says he doesn't have time
to make one" things, yet I got stuck with putting the finish on it. Of course,
it had to be stained to match our existing cabinetry so I was using whatever
stain the builder had used (Minwax "Gunstock", as I recall). The table's made
of red oak, and whenever I stain any open pored wood I like to go over it with
the air gun while it's still wet to get all the stain out of the pores
(otherwise it will continue to weep out over days, until the stuff finally
"dries"). I got a big kick out of blowing the air gun into the open pores at
one end of the table and watching the stain come out of the pores at the other
end, four or five feet away! Try THAT with white oak...
--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 10/26/10 10:07 AM, Josepi wrote:
> I have tried all kinds of oil on my maple cutting board. It doesn't work
> well. Heat the baord in the oven for an hour (gently) and rub it with a good
> saturated fat (Crisco shortening) and you won't have to do it again for ten
> years, if ever. That also should fill some pores. Oils can go rancid and
> become toxic to humans when left out in air and warm.
>
You just make this stuff up, don't you?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/26/10 12:50 PM, Josepi wrote:
> That's the odd thing about your posts. You can go from discussion to
> complete asshole in two seconds.
>
> Do you ever think before you jump up and down and start being a omplete
> jerk?
>
I apologize for offending you.
But maybe you shouldn't just make stuff up, if you don't want to be
called on it.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/26/2010 5:07 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
> In article<[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>>
>> Maple was classically chosen for it's antibacterial properties, also. Cedar,
>> similiar uses for moths and insects.
>>
>> Red oak sounds like it may fit that bill also, having some toxic properties.
>
> One that I've often thought would be interesting is ipe. The stuff will
> take a pretty good polish all by its lonesome, the yellow dust that
> comes out is supposedly pretty much benign--even helps some forms of
> cancer (they tested it for that and found it effective, but no better
> than existing treatments so they didn't develop it further), it has the
> decay resistance of concrete (and darned near as hard), only real
> downside I can think of is that it won't take glue worth crap.
Wonder how fast Ipe would dull your kitchen knives?
Of course, as a Texan I have to put in my plug for Mesquite; it make a great
cutting board. I made one for my sister-in-law about 10 years ago and she's
still using it, loves it, and wouldn't trade it for anything else.
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 10/26/2010 5:46 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
>
> "-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On 10/25/10 10:29 PM, Josepi wrote:
>>> Why not red oak?
>>>
>>
>> It would corrode your knives, of course. :-p
>>
>
> Having had my hands stained from working with white oak I'd think that the
> corrosion risk from tannic acid would be just as bad if not worse with white
> oak. The hand staining was particularly bad while making and working with white
> oak basket splints at Colonial Williamsburg but I've also had them stained by
> air dried white oak boards that had gotten wet.
>
> John
The corrosion comment is a bit of a joke from another thread; you kinda had to
be there. :-)
Yes, tannin can be a bit of a problem, but it's not exclusive to white oak.
I've gotten those purple-stained hands from various other species too. And if
I could only remember what those species were, I'd be more than happy to list
them... but I can't. :-)
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 10/28/10 4:53 PM, Josepi wrote:
> Do you always end a conversation with an attention troll?
>
> Drink some petroleum products and tell us how that goes. Tell us how much
> petroleum product you consume each year and how it how it give you diarhea
> because it is good for you.
>
So that would would be a NO on the googling, huh?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/28/2010 11:07 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 10/28/10 4:53 PM, Josepi wrote:
>> Do you always end a conversation with an attention troll?
>>
>> Drink some petroleum products and tell us how that goes. Tell us how much
>> petroleum product you consume each year and how it how it give you diarhea
>> because it is good for you.
>>
>
> So that would would be a NO on the googling, huh?
He doesn't know how.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
On 10/29/10 8:30 AM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Oct 29, 9:03 am, "[email protected]"
>> I am around Ipe a lot. I would never use it for a cutting board. The
>> stuff stinks, it stains, it dulls tools.
>
> I know absolutely nothing about Ipe,
Tangent...
I was in woodcraft and a few guys were talking about Ipe. They got into
a discussion about how to pronounce it. One guys said, "I pronounce it
eye-pay," the other guy said, "I pronounce it eepay," the third said, "I
hear it's just pronounced like pipe." I was walking by and said, "I
pronounce it, Brazilian Walnut."
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/29/10 8:41 AM, Robatoy wrote:
>
> I use whale oil boiled with seal blubber and tinted with oak rust.
between sips....... (pheeew)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/29/10 8:46 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 10/29/2010 8:41 AM, Robatoy wrote:
>
>> I use whale oil boiled with seal blubber and tinted with oak rust.
>
> Baby, infant, immature seals, with BIG eyes, I hope ...
>
Be careful not to cross contaminate when you club them.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Is mineral oil OK for human consumption? I was never sure what it was,
exactly.
Shortening, for people that bake, will fill the holes and stay put and never
go rancid without refrigeration. Any vegetable oils require refrigeration
and expire for human consumption once exxposed to air. Animal fats go rancid
in similar situations.
I tried a lof of different oils on mine and the Crisco actually stayed in
the board. My D-I-L used to wear the board lube out with one chopping
session (tabuli making). Not any more with the shortening for the last ten
years.
"Martin Eastburn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Isn't mineral oil the one to use ?
Martin
On 10/26/2010 2:39 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> Josepi wrote:
>> Taht, IMHO, is the confusion. The research showed some toxic compound
>> that eliminates bacteria in maple. If red oak contained a similiar
>> compound it may be ideal for that application. The open pore thing is
>> another issue to be considered, of course.
>>
>> I have tried all kinds of oil on my maple cutting board. It doesn't
>> work well. Heat the baord in the oven for an hour (gently) and rub it
>> with a good saturated fat (Crisco shortening) and you won't have to
>> do it again for ten years, if ever.
>
> Can I use lard? Or better yet, bacon fat?
>
Yes, and most vegetable oils go racid without refigeration. Each one has
it's own criteria for spoil temperatures. Crisco does not require
refrigeration or go rancid at room temperature and it stays around.
Next time you eat your vegetable salad add some cotton for flavour.
If you want a maple cutting board you don't have to oil every month or worry
about getting poisoned with rancid fats use the saturated fat shortenings or
another oil product that doesn't do rancid at room temperature with air
exposure.
With mineral oil being a toxic petroleum product, I would stay away from
that one. Leave it for your meachines.
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Uhhh...Crisco is made from vegetable oils. Cottonseed and soybean,
specifically.
Josepi wrote:
> Is mineral oil OK for human consumption? I was never sure what it was,
> exactly.
>
> Shortening, for people that bake, will fill the holes and stay put
> and never go rancid without refrigeration. Any vegetable oils require
> refrigeration and expire for human consumption once exxposed to air.
> Animal fats go rancid in similar situations.
> I tried a lof of different oils on mine and the Crisco actually
> stayed in the board.
On Fri, 29 Oct 2010 08:46:12 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 10/29/2010 8:41 AM, Robatoy wrote:
>
>> I use whale oil boiled with seal blubber and tinted with oak rust.
>
>Baby, infant, immature seals, with BIG eyes, I hope ...
That reminds me of the excellent bumper sticker which covers the hate
of durnnear everything:
NUKE THE GAY BABY WHALES FOR JESUS
--
Only YOU can prevent Oak Rust!
--
Most people assume the fights are going to be the left versus the right,
but it always is the reasonable versus the jerks.
-- Jimmy Wales
I never see yours either.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:0bf65fc2-fc2e-41c8-98fd-367b03e01162@j25g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
I don't read his stuff anymore. I only see his stuff when somebody
actually bothers to quote it...
I gave up on him.
On Tue, 26 Oct 2010 11:07:29 -0400, "Josepi" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Taht, IMHO, is the confusion. The research showed some toxic compound that
>eliminates bacteria in maple. If red oak contained a similiar compound it
>may be ideal for that application. The open pore thing is another issue to
>be considered, of course.
>
>I have tried all kinds of oil on my maple cutting board. It doesn't work
>well. Heat the baord in the oven for an hour (gently) and rub it with a good
>saturated fat (Crisco shortening) and you won't have to do it again for ten
>years, if ever. That also should fill some pores. Oils can go rancid and
>become toxic to humans when left out in air and warm.
>
>[...snip...]
Walnut oil.
On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 16:50:16 -0700, Doug Winterburn
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 10/25/2010 04:33 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
>> What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
>> Thanks.
>
>Non porous such as hard maple and cherry.
Not oleander?
--
Most people assume the fights are going to be the left versus the right,
but it always is the reasonable versus the jerks.
-- Jimmy Wales
On 10/26/2010 12:15 PM, RicodJour wrote:
> http://www.johnboos.com/content/1/54
> Boos has only been doing it for 130 years. I'm sure they'd appreciate
> the pointers.
What he said.
IMO, the best hard maple and walnut cutting boards, butcher blocks, and
counter tops available, bar none.
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www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)