Am in the planning stages of a couple night stands and was wondering if for
a particular size if there was a rule of thumb for the leg width and frame
width. Don't want to get to wide or to narrow for the size of the stand.
Plans with dim's aren't that expensive, so I guess I could get a set of
plans and just modify it to what I want. Rather not if I don't have to, so
see what you all suggest first. Thanks for your advice.
--
Paul O.
[email protected]
"Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Paul O." <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
> <snip>
>> Your pics didn't show up on my server for some reason. Hate to ask you
>> to post again to see if they show, but would like to see them. Thanks.
>
> Check your email.
Hey, thanks. Those are beautiful. Great job.
--
Paul O.
[email protected]
"Paul O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Am in the planning stages of a couple night stands and was wondering if
> for a particular size if there was a rule of thumb for the leg width and
> frame width. Don't want to get to wide or to narrow for the size of the
> stand. Plans with dim's aren't that expensive, so I guess I could get a
> set of plans and just modify it to what I want. Rather not if I don't have
> to, so see what you all suggest first. Thanks for your advice.
My wife keeps a small tape measure in her handbag. We go to a store, see
something that we like, I make a quick crude sketch and take a few
dimensions. I've also scaled dimensions from photographs in catalogs.
You'd be amazed at how well that works.
After all that, it comes down to personal taste. Do you want elegant tapered
legs or hefty pillars?
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/
"Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thieme <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> Patriarch <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> "Paul O." asks about a rule of thumb for leg width to frame width
>> <snip>
>>
>> Patriarch replies with this message and pics in the binary group:
>>> I'll post a picture on APBW of the bedside tables I completed
>>> recently. The leg stock I used there was 8/4 maple, thicknessed to
>>> about 1.75". These are quite sturdy, and sturdy looking, which was
>>> part of the design goal. There were no curves or tapers in the leg
>>> portion, which may change the way you undertake your design.
>>
>> Patriarch,
>>
Your pics didn't show up on my server for some reason. Hate to ask you to
post again to see if they show, but would like to see them. Thanks.
--
Paul O.
[email protected]
"Paul O." <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Am in the planning stages of a couple night stands and was wondering
> if for a particular size if there was a rule of thumb for the leg
> width and frame width. Don't want to get to wide or to narrow for the
> size of the stand. Plans with dim's aren't that expensive, so I guess
> I could get a set of plans and just modify it to what I want. Rather
> not if I don't have to, so see what you all suggest first. Thanks for
> your advice.
>
I'll post a picture on APBW of the bedside tables I completed recently.
The leg stock I used there was 8/4 maple, thicknessed to about 1.75".
These are quite sturdy, and sturdy looking, which was part of the design
goal. There were no curves or tapers in the leg portion, which may change
the way you undertake your design.
Patriarch
Patriarch <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> "Paul O." asks about a rule of thumb for leg width to frame width
<snip>
Patriarch replies with this message and pics in the binary group:
> I'll post a picture on APBW of the bedside tables I completed
> recently. The leg stock I used there was 8/4 maple, thicknessed to
> about 1.75". These are quite sturdy, and sturdy looking, which was
> part of the design goal. There were no curves or tapers in the leg
> portion, which may change the way you undertake your design.
Patriarch,
Your night stands look great! I've drawn up some plans that are *very*
similar to yours. I plan to use mine in the family room next to my
recliner. I'm leaving the bottom shelf open (i.e. no door) so I can slide
my laptop in when not in use. Anyway, I was wondering if you could tell me
more about the joinery you used for the shelf. It's not quite clear what
you did and I haven't decided how I'm going to do it. It almost looks like
your panels meet in the corners and I'm guessing you used cleats underneath
the shelf that are attached to the lower rails. Also, are the panels
attached so that they meet in the corners?
Thanks,
~Jeff
near Memphis, TN
Thieme <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Patriarch <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> "Paul O." asks about a rule of thumb for leg width to frame width
> <snip>
>
> Patriarch replies with this message and pics in the binary group:
>> I'll post a picture on APBW of the bedside tables I completed
>> recently. The leg stock I used there was 8/4 maple, thicknessed to
>> about 1.75". These are quite sturdy, and sturdy looking, which was
>> part of the design goal. There were no curves or tapers in the leg
>> portion, which may change the way you undertake your design.
>
> Patriarch,
>
> Your night stands look great! I've drawn up some plans that are
> *very* similar to yours. I plan to use mine in the family room next
> to my recliner. I'm leaving the bottom shelf open (i.e. no door) so I
> can slide my laptop in when not in use. Anyway, I was wondering if
> you could tell me more about the joinery you used for the shelf. It's
> not quite clear what you did and I haven't decided how I'm going to do
> it. It almost looks like your panels meet in the corners and I'm
> guessing you used cleats underneath the shelf that are attached to the
> lower rails. Also, are the panels attached so that they meet in the
> corners?
>
> Thanks,
>
Jeff, these tables are built to be STRONG, for a number of reasons.
Mostly because the joinery was easy, and I started these when I had
taken only a couple of woodworking classes. The legs are 8/4 maple,
rabbeted and biscuited to to 3/4" maple veneer plywood. The cross
pieces are 6/4 maple, also rabbeted and biscuited together. Side to
side joinery is with dust frame construction of 3/4 plywood, attached
with pocket screws. The bottom shelf is more 3/4" maple ply, attached
as you surmised. The cherry top, 6/4 solid, is screwed through the dust
frame from the drawer pocket, and sort of floats to accomodate wood
movement. There is a plywood back, inset from the legs, to conceal
cords, etc. The drawers are birdeye maple, with half-blind dovetails,
cut with an Akeda jig. Part of the drawer stop construction is of Port
Orford Cedar, because it smells so good, and I had a little bit of
really nice stock given me by a friend.
You didn't ask, but the finish is super blond shellac, rubbed out with
synthetic steel wool and Butcher's wax.
Rather like asking a grandmother about her grandchild, no? ;-)
My daughter-in-law loves them. It was 18 months from start to finish,
with mostly life getting in the way. They are not that difficult to
build. And they were away at school in another state, making it easy to
let other things get onto the schedule.
Enjoy making yours. I have an oak end table someone made for me 15
years ago, with feature similar to what you describe. A pull-out shelf
on simple glides manages cords really well.
If I can answer any more questions, feel free to ask.
Patriarch
"Paul O." <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
> Your pics didn't show up on my server for some reason. Hate to ask you
> to post again to see if they show, but would like to see them. Thanks.
Check your email.
"Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Patriarch,
>
> Great looking table!
>
> --
>
> Rumpty
>
> Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
>
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
>
>
Thank you.