I live in a humid, warm environment (Houston, Texas). We air-condition
everything down here, but it will be a while before I have an air
conditioned shop. In the meantime, its not too practical to keep my new
table saw in the house. I want to do what I can to keep its cast iron
surfaces from rusting. It comes with all the surfaces oiled. Of course
that's a no-no for dealing with wood. I suppose I could wipe it down with a
light oil regularly and wipe off the excess. What about waxing? Is that
reasonable? Any experience would be appreciated, especially from people
living in soggy areas along the gulf coast.
Bob
I'm not going to turn the fan off to see if that is what makes the
difference, but you might give it a try ... I can see the outside through
gaps in the wood siding of the shop and the single garage door has gaps
around it and is not insulated. My chisels have never needed to be waxed.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/21/03
"Silvan" wrote in message
> I might try the fan idea, 'cause the parity thing ain't workin'. My shop
> doors seal poorly, and there are several substantial gaps in the walls.
> The place leaks air like a sieve, and there's no climate control or
> insulation.
>
> I forgot to wax my new chisels. Now they're all rusty. All it takes is
one
> cool night. :(
I use a gun care product called RIG. It has NEVER let me down. Wipe
off before cutting if you need to. Really good stuff. Check to see if
it contains silicone-don't think it does. I have used everything and
only this has never failed. Top Cote is probably as good but I can't
afford it. Break-Free did not work as well as RIG for me.
On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 10:53:59 +0100, "John Manders"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I live in a humid, warm environment (Houston, Texas). We air-condition
>> everything down here, but it will be a while before I have an air
>> conditioned shop. In the meantime, its not too practical to keep my new
>> table saw in the house. I want to do what I can to keep its cast iron
>> surfaces from rusting. It comes with all the surfaces oiled. Of course
>> that's a no-no for dealing with wood. I suppose I could wipe it down with
>a
>> light oil regularly and wipe off the excess. What about waxing? Is that
>> reasonable? Any experience would be appreciated, especially from people
>> living in soggy areas along the gulf coast.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>If you keep the saw table slightly warm, it won't get condensation on it.
>Try a bolt on heater or house a low wattage light bulb under it. This
>should work in theory, but I've not used the technique for this purpose
>before but it works for frost protection. Might be worth a try. When I use
>light bulbs as heaters, I always use 2 so I'm still protected if one fails.
>On the surfaces where the wood doesn't contact, try a wax antirust coating
>as used on classic cars. UK product is called Waxoyl but others should be
>available. These cling and penetrate into small gaps where 2 pieces meet.
>Ask at classic car meets.
>
>John
>
On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 22:33:05 GMT, "Bob Davis"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>In the meantime, its not too practical to keep my new
>table saw in the house. I want to do what I can to keep its cast iron
>surfaces from rusting.
Let them rust - look up some gunsmithing refs on a "browned" finish.
In that climate there's no way you're going to keep it silver. So give
it a hand to develop the smooth dark brown colour of a few decades
patina, but more quickly. This is a much more stable surface to
maintain in a useful condition. Your wood doesn;t care what colour the
table is, just that it's clean, smooth, and not covered with a loose
surface.
--
Smert' spamionam
I don't thing anything will stop rust unless you put a heavy coat of
cosmolene or Boeshield T-9. Of course this makes a mess every time you want
to use your saw. I have used wax and now use Top Cote. Both will allow
some rust. I find that the more you use the saw, the less the rust. But if
you are an occasional user, short of cosmolene, you need to check the saw
every couple of days and keep up with the light rust.
BTW, San Antonio is pretty humid, too.
Preston
"Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I live in a humid, warm environment (Houston, Texas). We air-condition
> everything down here, but it will be a while before I have an air
> conditioned shop. In the meantime, its not too practical to keep my new
> table saw in the house. I want to do what I can to keep its cast iron
> surfaces from rusting. It comes with all the surfaces oiled. Of course
> that's a no-no for dealing with wood. I suppose I could wipe it down with
a
> light oil regularly and wipe off the excess. What about waxing? Is that
> reasonable? Any experience would be appreciated, especially from people
> living in soggy areas along the gulf coast.
>
> Bob
>
>
"Preston Andreas" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I don't thing anything will stop rust unless you put a heavy coat of
> cosmolene or Boeshield T-9. Of course this makes a mess every time you
want
> to use your saw. I have used wax and now use Top Cote. Both will allow
> some rust. I find that the more you use the saw, the less the rust. But
if
> you are an occasional user, short of cosmolene, you need to check the saw
> every couple of days and keep up with the light rust.
>
> BTW, San Antonio is pretty humid, too.
>
The problem with living along the humid coast vs. a humid place like SA, is
that the humidity along the coast is normally salty also which tends to be
more aggressive. Automobiles and metal buildings with a southern exposure
to the gulf winds suffer more than the ones farther from the coast.
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]>
> >
> >I spent 40 years in Houston, just moved 18 months ago to Georgia. You
have
> >several options to choose from, one would be a spray of a dry silica
> >lubricant and wipe off the excess.
>
> NO! This is *bad* advice. Don't do this. Silicone-based lubricants
interfere
> with many wood finishes. Unfinished wood should never be allowed in
contact
> with them or anything they have touched.
I think he was actually talking about a Silica based product as he mentioned
and not a Silicone based product that you are talking about. Silica is a
stone and or quartz base product that is often packed with products to
absorbe moisture.
I live in Charleston SC and it is pretty humid here also. I use Johnson's
paste wax and Boeshield. My tablesaw sits on my carport and is exposed to
pretty wide ranges of humidity. You can get Boeshield online or from a boat
place like Boater's World.
Rob
"Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I live in a humid, warm environment (Houston, Texas). We air-condition
> everything down here, but it will be a while before I have an air
> conditioned shop. In the meantime, its not too practical to keep my new
> table saw in the house. I want to do what I can to keep its cast iron
> surfaces from rusting. It comes with all the surfaces oiled. Of course
> that's a no-no for dealing with wood. I suppose I could wipe it down with
a
> light oil regularly and wipe off the excess. What about waxing? Is that
> reasonable? Any experience would be appreciated, especially from people
> living in soggy areas along the gulf coast.
>
> Bob
>
>
In article <[email protected]>, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Doug Miller" <[email protected]>
>
>> >
>> >I spent 40 years in Houston, just moved 18 months ago to Georgia. You
>have
>> >several options to choose from, one would be a spray of a dry silica
>> >lubricant and wipe off the excess.
>>
>> NO! This is *bad* advice. Don't do this. Silicone-based lubricants
>interfere
>> with many wood finishes. Unfinished wood should never be allowed in
>contact
>> with them or anything they have touched.
>
>I think he was actually talking about a Silica based product as he mentioned
>and not a Silicone based product that you are talking about. Silica is a
>stone and or quartz base product that is often packed with products to
>absorbe moisture.
>
Clearly he is confused. Silica is an abrasive, not a lubricant.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Which RIG product? They make several lubes, wipes, greases and oils.
Bob
"Lawrence A. Ramsey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I use a gun care product called RIG. It has NEVER let me down. Wipe
> off before cutting if you need to. Really good stuff. Check to see if
> it contains silicone-don't think it does. I have used everything and
> only this has never failed. Top Cote is probably as good but I can't
> afford it. Break-Free did not work as well as RIG for me.
>
> On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 10:53:59 +0100, "John Manders"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> I live in a humid, warm environment (Houston, Texas). We air-condition
> >> everything down here, but it will be a while before I have an air
> >> conditioned shop. In the meantime, its not too practical to keep my
new
> >> table saw in the house. I want to do what I can to keep its cast iron
> >> surfaces from rusting. It comes with all the surfaces oiled. Of
course
> >> that's a no-no for dealing with wood. I suppose I could wipe it down
with
> >a
> >> light oil regularly and wipe off the excess. What about waxing? Is
that
> >> reasonable? Any experience would be appreciated, especially from
people
> >> living in soggy areas along the gulf coast.
> >>
> >> Bob
> >>
> >>
> >If you keep the saw table slightly warm, it won't get condensation on it.
> >Try a bolt on heater or house a low wattage light bulb under it. This
> >should work in theory, but I've not used the technique for this purpose
> >before but it works for frost protection. Might be worth a try. When I
use
> >light bulbs as heaters, I always use 2 so I'm still protected if one
fails.
> >On the surfaces where the wood doesn't contact, try a wax antirust
coating
> >as used on classic cars. UK product is called Waxoyl but others should be
> >available. These cling and penetrate into small gaps where 2 pieces meet.
> >Ask at classic car meets.
> >
> >John
> >
>
Hey Bob
I spent 40 years in Houston, just moved 18 months ago to Georgia. You have
several options to choose from, one would be a spray of a dry silica
lubricant and wipe off the excess. I have heard of a lot of people using
various car waxes but have not tried that yet. Wait a few minutes and I am
sure that you will get a handful of responses here.
Patrick
Bob Davis wrote in message ...
>I live in a humid, warm environment (Houston, Texas). We air-condition
>everything down here, but it will be a while before I have an air
>conditioned shop. In the meantime, its not too practical to keep my new
>table saw in the house. I want to do what I can to keep its cast iron
>surfaces from rusting. It comes with all the surfaces oiled. Of course
>that's a no-no for dealing with wood. I suppose I could wipe it down with
a
>light oil regularly and wipe off the excess. What about waxing? Is that
>reasonable? Any experience would be appreciated, especially from people
>living in soggy areas along the gulf coast.
>
>Bob
>
>
In article <[email protected]>, "patrick" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hey Bob
>
>I spent 40 years in Houston, just moved 18 months ago to Georgia. You have
>several options to choose from, one would be a spray of a dry silica
>lubricant and wipe off the excess.
NO! This is *bad* advice. Don't do this. Silicone-based lubricants interfere
with many wood finishes. Unfinished wood should never be allowed in contact
with them or anything they have touched.
> I have heard of a lot of people using
>various car waxes but have not tried that yet. Wait a few minutes and I am
>sure that you will get a handful of responses here.
Most car waxes contain silicone in some form or another.
Use one of the following, all safe for use on woodworking equipment:
Paste wax (Johnson's and Minwax are both silicone-free).
TopCote.
Boeshield (spelling?).
>
>Bob Davis wrote in message ...
>>I live in a humid, warm environment (Houston, Texas). We air-condition
>>everything down here, but it will be a while before I have an air
>>conditioned shop. In the meantime, its not too practical to keep my new
>>table saw in the house. I want to do what I can to keep its cast iron
>>surfaces from rusting. It comes with all the surfaces oiled. Of course
>>that's a no-no for dealing with wood. I suppose I could wipe it down with
>a
>>light oil regularly and wipe off the excess. What about waxing? Is that
>>reasonable? Any experience would be appreciated, especially from people
>>living in soggy areas along the gulf coast.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Clearly he is confused. Silica is an abrasive, not a lubricant.
I'll agree with that part for sure..
"Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I live in a humid, warm environment (Houston, Texas). We air-condition
> everything down here, but it will be a while before I have an air
> conditioned shop. In the meantime, its not too practical to keep my new
> table saw in the house. I want to do what I can to keep its cast iron
> surfaces from rusting. It comes with all the surfaces oiled. Of course
> that's a no-no for dealing with wood. I suppose I could wipe it down with
a
> light oil regularly and wipe off the excess. What about waxing? Is that
> reasonable? Any experience would be appreciated, especially from people
> living in soggy areas along the gulf coast.
>
> Bob
>
>
If you keep the saw table slightly warm, it won't get condensation on it.
Try a bolt on heater or house a low wattage light bulb under it. This
should work in theory, but I've not used the technique for this purpose
before but it works for frost protection. Might be worth a try. When I use
light bulbs as heaters, I always use 2 so I'm still protected if one fails.
On the surfaces where the wood doesn't contact, try a wax antirust coating
as used on classic cars. UK product is called Waxoyl but others should be
available. These cling and penetrate into small gaps where 2 pieces meet.
Ask at classic car meets.
John
Charleston huh, you're the closest poster I'v seen in a while. I had my old
talblesaw in the carport, before moving, and the tarp I covered my works in
progress with did wonders for keeping rust off. Now I have a shed^H^H^H^H
shop that needs more attention to keep the rust off the surface. Maybe if
I posted No Rusting signs on the outside?
Joe
in the unincorporated Berkeley County part of Summerville
Rob wrote:
> I live in Charleston SC and it is pretty humid here also. I use Johnson's
> paste wax and Boeshield. My tablesaw sits on my carport and is exposed to
> pretty wide ranges of humidity. You can get Boeshield online or from a boat
> place like Boater's World.
>
> Rob
>
> "Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I live in a humid, warm environment (Houston, Texas). We air-condition
>>everything down here, but it will be a while before I have an air
>>conditioned shop. In the meantime, its not too practical to keep my new
>>table saw in the house. I want to do what I can to keep its cast iron
>>surfaces from rusting. It comes with all the surfaces oiled. Of course
>>that's a no-no for dealing with wood. I suppose I could wipe it down with
>
> a
>
>>light oil regularly and wipe off the excess. What about waxing? Is that
>>reasonable? Any experience would be appreciated, especially from people
>>living in soggy areas along the gulf coast.
>>
>>Bob
>>
>>
>
>
>
My current shop is in Houston and none of my tools have ever rusted. I
attribute it to no air conditioning, heat, or insulation in the shop,
TopCote periodically applied to machined surfaces, and keeping a fan running
on low 24/7.
The whole idea is for the outside and inside air to always be at parity, and
to move air around inside the shop to discourage condensation if it's not.
My friends/acquaintances with air conditioned, tightly insulated shops fight
rust constantly.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/21/03
"Bob Davis" wrote in message
> I live in a humid, warm environment (Houston, Texas). We air-condition
> everything down here, but it will be a while before I have an air
> conditioned shop. In the meantime, its not too practical to keep my new
> table saw in the house. I want to do what I can to keep its cast iron
> surfaces from rusting. It comes with all the surfaces oiled. Of course
> that's a no-no for dealing with wood. I suppose I could wipe it down with
a
> light oil regularly and wipe off the excess. What about waxing? Is that
> reasonable? Any experience would be appreciated, >
> especially from people
> living in soggy areas along the gulf coast.
Maybe an oil finish on your projects?
On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 22:33:05 GMT, "Bob Davis"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I live in a humid, warm environment (Houston, Texas). We air-condition
>everything down here, but it will be a while before I have an air
>conditioned shop. In the meantime, its not too practical to keep my new
>table saw in the house. I want to do what I can to keep its cast iron
>surfaces from rusting. It comes with all the surfaces oiled. Of course
>that's a no-no for dealing with wood. I suppose I could wipe it down with a
>light oil regularly and wipe off the excess. What about waxing? Is that
>reasonable? Any experience would be appreciated, especially from people
>living in soggy areas along the gulf coast.
>
>Bob
>
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 04:02:47 GMT, "Leon"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I think he was actually talking about a Silica based product as he mentioned
> >and not a Silicone based product that you are talking about.
>
> "silicone dry lubricant" sounds like a silicone, not silica.
But what he wrote was 'dry silica lubricant'. Which souncs like a bit
of a confabulation since most silicas are abrasives, not lubricants.
>
> >Silica is a
> >stone and or quartz base product that is often packed with products to
> >absorbe moisture.
Talc is primarily magnesium tetrasilicate and talcum powder can be
rubbed onto cast iron to reduce corrosion though electrowhateverits-
called, similar to galvanizing. The rule of thumb is to apply it once
a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year,
and once a year thereafter.
I dunno about the respiratory hazards of talcum powder.
--
FF
Andy Dingley wrote:
>>But the original post in question said, "silica dry lubricant" clear as
>>day. S-I-L-I-C-A.
>
> I know. That's what I meant. But my hands just can't bear to type
> "silicone chips" either, and they auto-corrected it without me
> noticing 8-)
Ah, well I can understand that completely then. I live on County Dr.
C-O-U-N-T-Y. I can stand there all day long and watch people auto-correct
that to Country Dr. I think after six years here, and six
change-of-address notices, my tax forms are _still_ going to the wrong
address.
You're excused. :)
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 17954 Approximate word count: 538620
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
In article <[email protected]>,
Doug Miller <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>In article <[email protected]>, "patrick"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>>Hey Bob
>>
>>I spent 40 years in Houston, just moved 18 months ago to Georgia. You have
>>several options to choose from, one would be a spray of a dry silica
>>lubricant and wipe off the excess.
>
>NO! This is *bad* advice. Don't do this. Silicone-based lubricants interfere
>with many wood finishes. Unfinished wood should never be allowed in contact
>with them or anything they have touched.
>
>> I have heard of a lot of people using
>>various car waxes but have not tried that yet. Wait a few minutes and I am
>>sure that you will get a handful of responses here.
>
>Most car waxes contain silicone in some form or another.
>
>Use one of the following, all safe for use on woodworking equipment:
>Paste wax (Johnson's and Minwax are both silicone-free).
Add "Lundmark", and "Butchers" to the paste wax list.
>TopCote.
>Boeshield (spelling?).
Andy Dingley wrote:
>>I think he was actually talking about a Silica based product as he
>>mentioned and not a Silicone based product that you are talking about.
>
> "silicone dry lubricant" sounds like a silicone, not silica.
But the original post in question said, "silica dry lubricant" clear as day.
S-I-L-I-C-A.
Ain't no "-one" there, Chief.
Now, I'll grant you, I have no idea what "silica dry lubricant" might be
either, but that's what the original post said for good or ill.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 17930 Approximate word count: 537900
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Which RIG product? They make several lubes, wipes, greases and oils.
Bob
"Lawrence A. Ramsey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I use a gun care product called RIG. It has NEVER let me down. Wipe
> off before cutting if you need to. Really good stuff. Check to see if
> it contains silicone-don't think it does. I have used everything and
> only this has never failed. Top Cote is probably as good but I can't
> afford it. Break-Free did not work as well as RIG for me.
>
> On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 10:53:59 +0100, "John Manders"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> I live in a humid, warm environment (Houston, Texas). We air-condition
> >> everything down here, but it will be a while before I have an air
> >> conditioned shop. In the meantime, its not too practical to keep my
new
> >> table saw in the house. I want to do what I can to keep its cast iron
> >> surfaces from rusting. It comes with all the surfaces oiled. Of
course
> >> that's a no-no for dealing with wood. I suppose I could wipe it down
with
> >a
> >> light oil regularly and wipe off the excess. What about waxing? Is
that
> >> reasonable? Any experience would be appreciated, especially from
people
> >> living in soggy areas along the gulf coast.
> >>
> >> Bob
> >>
> >>
> >If you keep the saw table slightly warm, it won't get condensation on it.
> >Try a bolt on heater or house a low wattage light bulb under it. This
> >should work in theory, but I've not used the technique for this purpose
> >before but it works for frost protection. Might be worth a try. When I
use
> >light bulbs as heaters, I always use 2 so I'm still protected if one
fails.
> >On the surfaces where the wood doesn't contact, try a wax antirust
coating
> >as used on classic cars. UK product is called Waxoyl but others should be
> >available. These cling and penetrate into small gaps where 2 pieces meet.
> >Ask at classic car meets.
> >
> >John
> >
>
In article <[email protected]>, Silvan <[email protected]> wrote:
>Andy Dingley wrote:
>
>>>I think he was actually talking about a Silica based product as he
>>>mentioned and not a Silicone based product that you are talking about.
>>
>> "silicone dry lubricant" sounds like a silicone, not silica.
>
>But the original post in question said, "silica dry lubricant" clear as day.
>S-I-L-I-C-A.
>
>Ain't no "-one" there, Chief.
Also ain't no such thing as "silica dry lubricant" either. Silica is an
*abrasive*. The poster clearly meant "silicone".
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 08:36:32 -0400, Silvan
<[email protected]> wrote:
>> "silicone dry lubricant" sounds like a silicone, not silica.
>
>But the original post in question said, "silica dry lubricant" clear as day.
>S-I-L-I-C-A.
I know. That's what I meant. But my hands just can't bear to type
"silicone chips" either, and they auto-corrected it without me
noticing 8-)
And the only "silicon implants" are in Kevin Warwick
--
Smert' spamionam
Bob I live near Sugarland in SW Houston, I have been woodworking seriously
for 25+ years. I fought rust until I started using TopCote. I tried the
wax, the covers, and the other concoctions. I'll stick with TopCote.
Where in Houston are you?
"Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I live in a humid, warm environment (Houston, Texas). We air-condition
> everything down here, but it will be a while before I have an air
> conditioned shop. In the meantime, its not too practical to keep my new
> table saw in the house. I want to do what I can to keep its cast iron
> surfaces from rusting. It comes with all the surfaces oiled. Of course
> that's a no-no for dealing with wood. I suppose I could wipe it down with
a
> light oil regularly and wipe off the excess. What about waxing? Is that
> reasonable? Any experience would be appreciated, especially from people
> living in soggy areas along the gulf coast.
>
> Bob
>
>
Swingman wrote:
> The whole idea is for the outside and inside air to always be at parity,
> and to move air around inside the shop to discourage condensation if it's
> not.
>
> My friends/acquaintances with air conditioned, tightly insulated shops
> fight rust constantly.
I might try the fan idea, 'cause the parity thing ain't workin'. My shop
doors seal poorly, and there are several substantial gaps in the walls.
The place leaks air like a sieve, and there's no climate control or
insulation.
I forgot to wax my new chisels. Now they're all rusty. All it takes is one
cool night. :(
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 17955 Approximate word count: 538650
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 10:27:49 +0100, Andy Dingley
<[email protected]> pixelated:
>On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 04:02:47 GMT, "Leon"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I think he was actually talking about a Silica based product as he mentioned
>>and not a Silicone based product that you are talking about.
>
>"silicone dry lubricant" sounds like a silicone, not silica.
>
>>Silica is a
>>stone and or quartz base product that is often packed with products to
>>absorbe moisture.
http://www.silicone-review.gov.uk/silicone/index.htm
has concise descriptions of silicon/silica/silicone.
--
Music washes away from the soul the dust of everyday life.
---- --Unknown
I live in Central Florida. I have been really busy this summer and the
WW has not been what I would like. Soon that should change. I use Top
Coat. It is easy and it seems to work. I have no rust on my TS or
other surfaces. I spray everything with TopCoat.
>Bob I live near Sugarland in SW Houston, I have been woodworking seriously
>for 25+ years. I fought rust until I started using TopCote. I tried the
>wax, the covers, and the other concoctions. I'll stick with TopCote.
>
>Where in Houston are you?
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>
On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 04:02:47 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I think he was actually talking about a Silica based product as he mentioned
>and not a Silicone based product that you are talking about.
"silicone dry lubricant" sounds like a silicone, not silica.
>Silica is a
>stone and or quartz base product that is often packed with products to
>absorbe moisture.
There are two silicas which are useful in the workshop, and they're
both dangerous. Fumed silica / silex (chromatography column packing)
is an extremely lightweight fine powder. It can be used as a pore
filler. It's also "silicosis in a jar" and one of the most hazardous
fine air-borne powders this side of asbestos. I don't use it much -
it's also extremely hard and difficult to rub down afterwards.
The other silica, silica gel, is made of little round spheres (the
well known dessicant). If you spill this on a smooth floor, it can
become too slippery for you to walk across it to get the broom to
clear it up !
--
Smert' spamionam