Bosch 1617

Tattooed and Dusty ([email protected]) wrote on Sunday 12 June 2005
08:12 pm:

> Hi All,
> So today about 1/3 of the way through routing some rabbits my router
> stopped working. It was functioning without a problem, I turned it off
> to readjust a piece, and it wouldn't turn back on. I blew it out with
> compressed air, checked the brushes, tried multiple outlets all to no
> avail. I was wondering if anyone else has had similar problems, or
> ideas. I am planning to take it to a repair center tomorrow, but want
> to avoid a comment like, well did you try "blank" which instantly fixes
> it.
>
> Thanks in advance for any ideas
>
> Andrew

Mine did the same thing while under warranty. The replaced the switch at
the service center.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer

> It does present the next question. In the case I am feeling rich
> tomorrow does the 1619EVS rank in the groups mind. I am still swapping
> the 1617 in and out of the router table and have been intending to
> purchase a larger unit to be more or less permanently in the router
> table. I like the I won't have to buy new template guides and other
> small parts, but the price is kinda high. Especially if I am going to
> have to replace the switch after a year or so.
>
It is darn nice to have an extra router so you can leave one in the table,
and it is especially nice to have a variable speed for the table. Besides,
I figure they wear out, and it will take twice as long to wear out if you
split the work; so it really doesn't cost any more to have several. (or is
that rationalization?)
My 1617EVS switch broke in the middle of a big project and the local shop
wouldn't fix it because I bought it on eBay; so I bought a 1618 to finish
the job and left the broken 1617EVS in the table. Then, in about the most
amazing thing I have ever experienced, the guy I bought from on eBay sent me
a free replacement (though I sent him some money anyhow)! So I have three
of them. The 1618 and 1617 have different feels to them; so it is nice to
have both.

Yeh, if cost is not an object, I would rather have a larger unit in the
table; but I have been using the 1617EVS for 2 years now, and the only time
it was underpowered was on a raised panel door; and fortunately I like flat
panel doors. So unless you plan on doing a bunch of those...

I tried blowing the switch out alot with compressed air. I will try
some more tomorrow and let everyone know the answer. I use is primarily
as a hand held device, so I don't think the offset switch solution will
work. I guess I am planning to have it repaired, hopefully it will be
quick and painless.

It does present the next question. In the case I am feeling rich
tomorrow does the 1619EVS rank in the groups mind. I am still swapping
the 1617 in and out of the router table and have been intending to
purchase a larger unit to be more or less permanently in the router
table. I like the I won't have to buy new template guides and other
small parts, but the price is kinda high. Especially if I am going to
have to replace the switch after a year or so.

Thanks again for the help so far, and either way I will update everyone
on the solution.

Andrew

So an update,
I took the router apart again, removed the switch and blew it out
entirely, still to no avail. I can't figure out how to take apart the
actual switch itself. There appear to be clips, but I can't get them to
depress and I don't want to force it. The beast is still under
warauntee, but the repair place is a couple weeks out. I need to look
into the cost of simply buying a new switch assuming that's the
problem, as I don't want to be routerless for a couple weeks.

Still contemplating buying a 1619evs for the time being...

Andrew

Thanks again for the advice

Hi All,
A quick update. I shelled out the $4.05 today for a new switch, took
three minutes or so and installed it and have a perfectly working
router again on my hands.

I also looked at the 1619EVS while at the shop. I have to say it looks
like it will be one of the next purchases for the shop.

Thanks again for all the help

Andrew

On 12 Jun 2005 20:19:37 -0700, "Tattooed and Dusty"
<[email protected]> wrote:

<snip>
>It does present the next question. In the case I am feeling rich
>tomorrow does the 1619EVS rank in the groups mind. I am still swapping
>the 1617 in and out of the router table and have been intending to
>purchase a larger unit to be more or less permanently in the router
>table. I like the I won't have to buy new template guides and other
>small parts, but the price is kinda high. Especially if I am going to
>have to replace the switch after a year or so.
<snip again>

I'd been drooling over the 1619EVS ever since it came out, mostly
because it seemed to be designed specifically for table mounting.
The price kept me from it, but back before last Xmas when Amazon
dropped the price to $230 with free shipping I couldnt resist any
longer.

I'm glad I got it. With both coarse and fine depth adjustments it's
far faster and easier than my ancient 1611EVS was, and it has good
power and range of speed adjustment. All in all a fairly well made
unit, as most Bosch routers are (1617 being one possible exception :)
).

As a couple of people already mentioned, get one of those router table
switches (I think Rockler has one), plug the router in it and leave
the router switch on all the time. This will eliminate possible
problems with dust jams in the switch housing but is also, I think, a
bit safer.

Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

>
>
>
> We have a problem in the UK of new (cheap) router models appearing with
> switches that must be held down in use. Obviously these require butchery

Seriously?

Hopefully the switch is in a place where you can still keep the router
under control with two hands!?!

I've had this exact thing happen three times with my 1617EVS. Turns out
that (as mentioned by others) the switch itself gets packed with sawdust
so that the contact will not work. With patience you fix it as follows:

Safety: Be sure you have the machine UNPLUGGED before you work on it.

1) disassemble the top of the router - two screws if memory serves
2) unplug the spade lug connections from the switch (remember where you
parked so you can find your way back - take pictures if necessary)
3) with a small screwdriver, pry the plastic sides of the switch to let
the back release. Be careful there are small parts that will fall out
like the contact bar and spring. Take it apart slowly so that you can
put it back together, sans sawdust, the same way it came apart.
4) Clean out all the sawdust and clean the contact parts as necessary
5) put the switch back together, test it first with a meter (continuity)
6) reattach the spade lug connections
7) make sure all the wires are back in the right place so they don't get
pinched when you reassemble to top.
8) reassemble the top

It should be ready to go. As I said, I've done this now three times and
so far never had to replace the switch. But the inside of it is always
packed completely full of sawdust. Thinking about it now, maybe sealing
the switch back with a light film of silicon caulk or something would
solve the problem. Might be worth a try. If you keep air from flowing
through the switch then it should not accumulate dust in there.

YMMV - could actually be a bad switch. I have no affiliation with Bosch.

Paul Proffitt

"LP" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> I don't have a 1617 but if it's like my other bosch's I'd bet you've
> got dust/chips in the switch housing. It's a common problem with this
> brand. Usually blowing it out with air will do the job. Let us know
> if this solved the problem.

If it is mounted in a table, use a switch on an outlet mounted on the table
to eliminate that problem as it is just left in the "on" position.

"Tattooed and Dusty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi All,
> So today about 1/3 of the way through routing some rabbits my router
> stopped working. It was functioning without a problem, I turned it off
> to readjust a piece, and it wouldn't turn back on. I blew it out with
> compressed air, checked the brushes, tried multiple outlets all to no
> avail. I was wondering if anyone else has had similar problems, or
> ideas. I am planning to take it to a repair center tomorrow, but want
> to avoid a comment like, well did you try "blank" which instantly fixes
> it.
>
> Thanks in advance for any ideas
>
> Andrew

clean out the rabbit blood, that might violate the warranty

Tattooed and Dusty wrote:
> I tried blowing the switch out alot with compressed air.

If you are electrically inclined, bypass the switch completely and see
what happens.

A WORD OF CAUTION:

When you bypass the switch, the router will start as soon as you plug it
in if it is the switch.

Plan accordingly.

Lew

"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "LP" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> I don't have a 1617 but if it's like my other bosch's I'd bet you've
>> got dust/chips in the switch housing. It's a common problem with this
>> brand. Usually blowing it out with air will do the job. Let us know
>> if this solved the problem.
>
> If it is mounted in a table, use a switch on an outlet mounted on the
> table to eliminate that problem as it is just left in the "on" position.
Thats how I fixed mine. It took me 10 minutes to get it to turn on, and I
left it that way.

I wrote:

>>If you are electrically inclined, bypass the switch completely and see
>>what happens.
>>
>>A WORD OF CAUTION:
>>
>>When you bypass the switch, the router will start as soon as you plug it
>>in if it is the switch.


Andy Dingley writes:

> IMHO, never bypass the switch on any hazardous tool that has a plug on
> the cable.


Evidently my suggestion above was not totally clear.

Bypassing a switch is for test purposes only.

The only exception would be when you have a switched wall outlet that
could be used to control the start-stop of the tool motor.

Lew

"Tattooed and Dusty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> It does present the next question. In the case I am feeling rich
> tomorrow does the 1619EVS rank in the groups mind. I am still swapping
> the 1617 in and out of the router table and have been intending to
> purchase a larger unit to be more or less permanently in the router
> table.

Good idea.

I like the I won't have to buy new template guides and other
> small parts, but the price is kinda high. Especially if I am going to
> have to replace the switch after a year or so.

Once in a table and switched on, you should never have to touch the switch
again so it will last about forever.

On 12 Jun 2005 18:12:48 -0700, "Tattooed and Dusty"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Hi All,
>So today about 1/3 of the way through routing some rabbits my router
>stopped working. It was functioning without a problem, I turned it off
>to readjust a piece, and it wouldn't turn back on. I blew it out with
>compressed air, checked the brushes, tried multiple outlets all to no
>avail. I was wondering if anyone else has had similar problems, or
>ideas. I am planning to take it to a repair center tomorrow, but want
>to avoid a comment like, well did you try "blank" which instantly fixes
>it.
>
>Thanks in advance for any ideas
>
>Andrew

I don't have a 1617 but if it's like my other bosch's I'd bet you've
got dust/chips in the switch housing. It's a common problem with this
brand. Usually blowing it out with air will do the job. Let us know
if this solved the problem.

On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 15:21:29 GMT, Lew Hodgett <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Bypassing a switch is for test purposes only.

We have a problem in the UK of new (cheap) router models appearing with
switches that must be held down in use. Obviously these require butchery
(or tie-wraps) before being used in a table.

On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 05:03:45 GMT, Lew Hodgett <[email protected]>
wrote:

>If you are electrically inclined, bypass the switch completely and see
>what happens.
>
>A WORD OF CAUTION:
>
>When you bypass the switch, the router will start as soon as you plug it
>in if it is the switch.

IMHO, never bypass the switch on any hazardous tool that has a plug on
the cable.

If you do this (and for table mounting routers with "press-button"
switches, it's necessary) then cut the plug off first and wire the
supply cable into a separately boxed switch.



On the subject of switches, why does the Bosch clog up ? Is it exposed
to sawdust in itself, or is it like my Bosch angle grinder where the
cooling fan pulls air (and sawdust) in through the gap around the switch
slider ? It always switches on, but it can easily wedge itself so you
can't turn it off. This makes it hazardous to use with an Arbortech
disk.

I'm thinking about stripping my grinder down and fitting some sort of
thin sheet "airflow blocker" underneath the switch,