Thanks for the reply,
Oh I know EXACTLY why it's warped...
A brief lapse in concentration + some nasty kickback/binding = one
warped blade. :-(
It's only a $45 CAD blade that still cuts "ok", but it add's a bit of
vibration to the saw. And it <rubs-rubs-rubs-rubs> when I use my cross
cut sled...
I would love to just replace it, but if it's cheaper to sharpen and
straighten it that's what I would do.
-So do you know if a TS blade can be straightened?
TIA,
BR
Wow - Thanks for all the responses.
I will replace the blade and get a new one -but not throw it away ;~)
Seems like such a waste though since the warp is not "that" bad.
I'll probably keep it around as a backup, in case I need to cut
something nasty I don't want to expose my new blade to..
BTW: are the <MUCH> more expensive TS blades (Forrest, CMT, Dimar
Freud) really worth the 3x $$$ cost. Keep in mind I'm just a weekend
hack, "building" up my skills with projects for around the house.
I'm not sure I could justify a $150+ TS blade to SWMBO
Cheers,
BR
If the blade costs < $50 - pitch it and buy a new one.
It costs about $40 to true and re-sharpen a blade.
Be sure you figure out how and why it became warped first!
$=USD
Dave
"Birdy Num-Num" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a moderately warped 10" 60T cc / finishing blade that I use
> mostly for MDF.
> It's nearly new and decent quality, not the best but not cheap
> either.
>
> I was wondering if it's possible to straighten it the next time I
> bring it in for sharpening?
>
> Thanks,
>
> BR
>
Greetings and Salutations...
On Thu, 7 Oct 2004 12:01:22 -0700, "TeamCasa" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>If the blade costs < $50 - pitch it and buy a new one.
>It costs about $40 to true and re-sharpen a blade.
>
>Be sure you figure out how and why it became warped first!
>
>$=USD
I would suggest taking that "pitch it" as shorthand
for "replace the blade with a new one". I would not pitch
the sawblade, because, among other things, one can cut several
REALLY good quality cabinet scrapers out of the disk.
Regards
Dave Mundt
Greetings and Salutations...
On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 01:39:27 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Dave Mundt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Greetings and Salutations...
>>
>> I would suggest taking that "pitch it" as shorthand
>> for "replace the blade with a new one". I would not pitch
>> the sawblade, because, among other things, one can cut several
>> REALLY good quality cabinet scrapers out of the disk.
>> Regards
>> Dave Mundt
>
>
>Is it really worth the effort? IIRc you buy several for $10.
>
>
Hum...that is kind of a subjective thing. I know that it
is possible to find good tools at decent prices these days. However,
for me, there are other, overriding factors. There is the the
idea of cutting down the volume in the trash flow to the dumps
in America. Then, with me, it is usually that I need a weird
shaped scraper at 3:00 in the morning, and there are darned
few woodworking tool shops open at that hour. There is also
the fact that I really hate to throw anything away (which is
why my relatives think I live in a junkyard *smile*), but
rather prefer to recycle and reuse it if at all possible.
I really understand, though, that I am kind of
out there...and NORMAL folks would just pitch the blade
and buy a new one.
Regards
Dave Mundt
Leon wrote:
> "Dave Mundt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Greetings and Salutations...
> >
> > I would suggest taking that "pitch it" as shorthand
> > for "replace the blade with a new one". I would not pitch
> > the sawblade, because, among other things, one can cut several
> > REALLY good quality cabinet scrapers out of the disk.
> > Regards
> > Dave Mundt
>
> Is it really worth the effort? IIRc you buy several for $10.
Yeah, but those come in standard shapes. Make your own and you can
customize them to the job at hand.
I've never done it with a TS blade, but I buy those cheap Japanese saws
with the impulse hardened (read: non-resharpenable) teeth and when the
teeth wear, they're scraper material.
--RC
No doubt Forest is a quality blade. However, I have used for many years
blades made by a local sharpening shop. I have 3 Forest blades, like and
use them.
Point is, check with a local service that sharpens blades for commercial
applications and see what they have, many times they are competitively
priced and no waiting.
Dave
Leon said:
> I wish I had bought the Forrest to begin with. I never take it off the
> saw unless I am cutting questionable material such as PT and framing
> lumber. With a properly tuned saw the blade will instill greater
> confidence. I have found that it stays sharp much longer than the other
> brands that I owned and it rips and cross cuts almost perfectly. Shiny
> smooth rips and crosscuts dependent on how flat and straight your wood is.
> In the long run, I believe the blade to be cheaper in that I use it for
> all my cuts. I recommend the regular kerf.
>
Greetings and salutations....
On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 03:39:25 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Dave Mundt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Greetings and Salutations...
>>>
>>>
>> Hum...that is kind of a subjective thing. I know that it
>> is possible to find good tools at decent prices these days. However,
>> for me, there are other, overriding factors. There is the the
>> idea of cutting down the volume in the trash flow to the dumps
>> in America. Then, with me, it is usually that I need a weird
>> shaped scraper at 3:00 in the morning, and there are darned
>> few woodworking tool shops open at that hour. There is also
>> the fact that I really hate to throw anything away (which is
>> why my relatives think I live in a junkyard *smile*), but
>> rather prefer to recycle and reuse it if at all possible.
>> I really understand, though, that I am kind of
>> out there...and NORMAL folks would just pitch the blade
>> and buy a new one.
>> Regards
>> Dave Mundt
>
>Seriousely though, how do you cut the blade? And isn't a blade too thick?
>Or, maybe a thicker scraper is better.
>
>
The steel in most blades is NOT that hard. It cuts
easily with a hand hacksaw, although, I tend to use either the
Sawzall, or, (these days) the small, hand-held Milwaukee Deepcut
metalcutting bandsaw.
It is true that the blade scraper is thicker than many
of them. However, I tend to prefer that. I find that I can
often turn two burrs, one on each side, and, get twice the
work time out before having to re-sharpen.
They also work pretty well for making "scratch stocks"
for cutting custom beads into board edges and such.
Regards
Dave Mundt.
igor wrote:
> On 8 Oct 2004 08:33:55 -0700, "Birdy Num-Num" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> >BTW: are the <MUCH> more expensive TS blades (Forrest, CMT, Dimar
> >Freud) really worth the 3x $$$ cost. Keep in mind I'm just a weekend
> >hack, "building" up my skills with projects for around the house.
> >I'm not sure I could justify a $150+ TS blade to SWMBO
> >
> >Cheers,
> >
> >BR
>
> As a beginner, I'd say yes. Let's say you want to make mortise and tenon
> joints. One can spend much $$ for a machine (or many machines) to do this,
> but a rather good job can be done with a simple router and a TS. (And,
> even with Neander tools, if one is so inclined.) Better technique can
> create a better result. But with a TS blade, AFAIK, no technique with a
> so-so TS blade can give you as good a result as you can get with the same
> technique and a great TS blade. And, the better blades do give better
> results.
>
> Overall, FWIW, the way I look at it, there are so many variables when
> woodworking that I like to eliminate some by getting the right tool. It is
> why I did not buy a used TS and would not buy a used jointer, though I
> would buy other used/refurbed tools. Even a new TS has to be set up, and
> even a new one can be defective, but I want to reduce the possibility that
> bad results are the fault of the tool. So, I have ponied up for the
> Forrest blades. -- Igor
I believe high-quality tools make a bigger difference for a beginner because
they cause fewer problems. An experienced woodworker can anticipate and correct
for more problems that someone who is just learning.
Of course the experienced people are also the ones who are most insistent on
having high-quality tools.
I think once you know what it is you want in a tool, you should spend as much
as you can to get the best you can afford.
--RC
On Thu, 7 Oct 2004 17:26:21 -0500, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>The number
>one reason for a warped blade in my shop is forgetting to take out the zero
>clearance insert before cranking in some tilt.
>
>I hate it when that happens ...
Gee, how much of a dumbass can one be? Whoops. I was looking in the
mirror.
On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 03:29:22 GMT, [email protected] (Dave Mundt) wrote:
> Greetings and Salutations...
>
>On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 01:39:27 GMT, "Leon"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Dave Mundt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> Greetings and Salutations...
>>>
>>> I would suggest taking that "pitch it" as shorthand
>>> for "replace the blade with a new one". I would not pitch
>>> the sawblade, because, among other things, one can cut several
>>> REALLY good quality cabinet scrapers out of the disk.
>>> Regards
>>> Dave Mundt
>>
>>
>>Is it really worth the effort? IIRc you buy several for $10.
>>
>>
> Hum...that is kind of a subjective thing. I know that it
>is possible to find good tools at decent prices these days. However,
>for me, there are other, overriding factors. There is the the
>idea of cutting down the volume in the trash flow to the dumps
>in America. Then, with me, it is usually that I need a weird
>shaped scraper at 3:00 in the morning, and there are darned
>few woodworking tool shops open at that hour. There is also
>the fact that I really hate to throw anything away (which is
>why my relatives think I live in a junkyard *smile*), but
>rather prefer to recycle and reuse it if at all possible.
> I really understand, though, that I am kind of
>out there...and NORMAL folks would just pitch the blade
>and buy a new one.
> Regards
> Dave Mundt
not to mention that circular saw blades are thicker than your standard
card scraper, which makes them good candidates for donor material for
cutters for lots of scratch stock blades and specialized little
cutting tools. I have an old 10" blade I've been cutting chunks off of
for a while now....
"Birdy Num-Num" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Wow - Thanks for all the responses.
>
> I will replace the blade and get a new one -but not throw it away ;~)
> Seems like such a waste though since the warp is not "that" bad.
> I'll probably keep it around as a backup, in case I need to cut
> something nasty I don't want to expose my new blade to..
>
> BTW: are the <MUCH> more expensive TS blades (Forrest, CMT, Dimar
> Freud) really worth the 3x $$$ cost. Keep in mind I'm just a weekend
> hack, "building" up my skills with projects for around the house.
> I'm not sure I could justify a $150+ TS blade to SWMBO
I was into wood working seriously for about 17 years before buying a
Forrest. I had known about the Forrest about that long and did own some
pretty good blades. I wish I had bought the Forrest to begin with. I never
take it off the saw unless I am cutting questionable material such as PT and
framing lumber. With a properly tuned saw the blade will instill greater
confidence. I have found that it stays sharp much longer than the other
brands that I owned and it rips and cross cuts almost perfectly. Shiny
smooth rips and crosscuts dependent on how flat and straight your wood is.
In the long run, I believe the blade to be cheaper in that I use it for all
my cuts. I recommend the regular kerf.
"Birdy Num-Num" wrote in message
> Thanks for the reply,
>
> Oh I know EXACTLY why it's warped...
> A brief lapse in concentration + some nasty kickback/binding = one
> warped blade. :-(
> It's only a $45 CAD blade that still cuts "ok", but it add's a bit of
> vibration to the saw. And it <rubs-rubs-rubs-rubs> when I use my cross
> cut sled...
>
> I would love to just replace it, but if it's cheaper to sharpen and
> straighten it that's what I would do.
> -So do you know if a TS blade can be straightened?
I would toss it and buy another. As Leon said, Forrest may do it, but it
will cost you at least $45, and likely a bit more for shipping. The number
one reason for a warped blade in my shop is forgetting to take out the zero
clearance insert before cranking in some tilt.
I hate it when that happens ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I would toss it and buy another. As Leon said, Forrest may do it, but it
> will cost you at least $45, and likely a bit more for shipping. The number
> one reason for a warped blade in my shop is forgetting to take out the
> zero
> clearance insert before cranking in some tilt.
>
> I hate it when that happens ...
Hey but it pops that tight fitting insert right outa there.. '~)
"Dave Mundt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings and Salutations...
>>
>>
> Hum...that is kind of a subjective thing. I know that it
> is possible to find good tools at decent prices these days. However,
> for me, there are other, overriding factors. There is the the
> idea of cutting down the volume in the trash flow to the dumps
> in America. Then, with me, it is usually that I need a weird
> shaped scraper at 3:00 in the morning, and there are darned
> few woodworking tool shops open at that hour. There is also
> the fact that I really hate to throw anything away (which is
> why my relatives think I live in a junkyard *smile*), but
> rather prefer to recycle and reuse it if at all possible.
> I really understand, though, that I am kind of
> out there...and NORMAL folks would just pitch the blade
> and buy a new one.
> Regards
> Dave Mundt
Seriousely though, how do you cut the blade? And isn't a blade too thick?
Or, maybe a thicker scraper is better.
"Birdy Num-Num" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Wow - Thanks for all the responses.
>
> I will replace the blade and get a new one -but not throw it away ;~)
> Seems like such a waste though since the warp is not "that" bad.
> I'll probably keep it around as a backup, in case I need to cut
> something nasty I don't want to expose my new blade to..
>
> BTW: are the <MUCH> more expensive TS blades (Forrest, CMT, Dimar
> Freud) really worth the 3x $$$ cost. Keep in mind I'm just a weekend
> hack, "building" up my skills with projects for around the house.
> I'm not sure I could justify a $150+ TS blade to SWMBO
>
Lots of folks are pretty fond of some of the blades you mention. From my
perspective, there just isn't enough of a benefit to the blades that cost
that much, to make them worth the investment. If I could see a significant
difference I'd be happy to go with them because I do believe in spending
money on truly better tools, but I just can't see it. I've been woodworking
for 30 years, never as a professional, but I have produced some nice
cabinetry and furniture. I'd put myself squarely in the rank of above
average, or very good, but not artisan. Basic blades have never posed a
problem for me, have never caused any problems in the work I was doing.
I've only had to buy a couple of blades for my TS in all the years I've
owned it and none of them have been more than your basic 40-60 tooth blade
similar to what you'd find in your local BORG or hardware store. I've got a
DeWalt blade in it now and a lot of folks don't like them, but it cuts. It
cuts straight and true, and it stays on the arbor when it spins. What more
can I expect of a blade? After that, it's up to me to get the wood to the
blade at the right point. I've had this blade on the saw for quite a
while - can't really remember when I put it on. It's sawn a lot of
different hardwoods and softwoods. I don't even think about it - I just saw
with it.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> No doubt Forest is a quality blade. However, I have used for many years
> blades made by a local sharpening shop. I have 3 Forest blades, like and
> use them.
>
> Point is, check with a local service that sharpens blades for commercial
> applications and see what they have, many times they are competitively
> priced and no waiting.
I agree that this can be an alternative. I use a good sharpening service
for years. Computerized robots that recognized the blade when returned for
additional sharpening and they were sharp. Unfortunately they are unable to
straighten a bent blade and do not make blades. They do sell Systematic and
Amana of which I used Systematic for many years.
A couple of things:
1) Do you know, specifically, why it warped?
2) If not, and if it is nearly new, you might have a product defect issue
that would result in a replacement blade (for that matter are you sure it
was ok when purchased).
If it cannot be replaced as deficient, and the warp is significant, you
might want to pitch it. I am just thinking in terms of material scoring and
unnecessary wear and tear on bearings, trunnion, nerves, etc.
"Birdy Num-Num" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a moderately warped 10" 60T cc / finishing blade that I use
> mostly for MDF.
> It's nearly new and decent quality, not the best but not cheap
> either.
>
> I was wondering if it's possible to straighten it the next time I
> bring it in for sharpening?
>
> Thanks,
>
> BR
>
"TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
<snip>
>
> Point is, check with a local service that sharpens blades for
> commercial applications and see what they have, many times they are
> competitively priced and no waiting.
>
I agree with Dave. I've used Forrest blades, and they are good, but no
better results than well treated quality blades from other front-line
sources.
The archives hold a thread from about a year ago on sharpening services
that Wreckers use and recommend. Google that, and find one near you that
someone here thinks highly of. And then spend your money with them. And
listen to what they tell you.
My fellow, who's only been at this for 28 years, sold me on FS Tools
blades. It turns out I'm not the only one with a Unisaw who uses these,
although my saw is considerably less experienced than his...
And I had about $40 left over to buy timber...
Patriarch
"Birdy Num-Num" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I have a moderately warped 10" 60T cc / finishing blade that I use
> mostly for MDF.
> It's nearly new and decent quality, not the best but not cheap
> either.
>
> I was wondering if it's possible to straighten it the next time I
> bring it in for sharpening?
Ya know, if you can get it to warp a bit more you might have yourself
a decent dado blade. <g>
Jim
"Dave Mundt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The steel in most blades is NOT that hard. It cuts
> easily with a hand hacksaw, although, I tend to use either the
> Sawzall, or, (these days) the small, hand-held Milwaukee Deepcut
> metalcutting bandsaw.
I use a jewelers saw and it cuts with no problems. With a fine( i.g. 1/0)
blade you can cut very small radii.
Larry
"Dave Mundt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings and Salutations...
>
> I would suggest taking that "pitch it" as shorthand
> for "replace the blade with a new one". I would not pitch
> the sawblade, because, among other things, one can cut several
> REALLY good quality cabinet scrapers out of the disk.
> Regards
> Dave Mundt
Is it really worth the effort? IIRc you buy several for $10.
"igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 7 Oct 2004 17:26:21 -0500, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Gee, how much of a dumbass can one be? Whoops. I was looking in the
> mirror.
Damn, that mirror was in my garage last night. I was cleaning the saw dust
up using the gas powered leaf blower. I blow everything out the garage
door. Well, I also keep a plastic recycle bin under the jointer to catch
85% of the shavings. OK , I'll use the excuse that it was getting dark and
I was between the light and the dark out doors and.....
Basically I was finished when I accidentally aimed the leaf blower in to
that almost full bin of shavings. I had a mess 3 times bigger that when I
started. It only took 1 second to almost empty that bin.
On Sat, 09 Oct 2004 00:09:28 GMT, Rick Cook <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I believe high-quality tools make a bigger difference for a beginner because
>they cause fewer problems. An experienced woodworker can anticipate and correct
>for more problems that someone who is just learning.
>
>Of course the experienced people are also the ones who are most insistent on
>having high-quality tools.
>
>I think once you know what it is you want in a tool, you should spend as much
>as you can to get the best you can afford.
>
>--RC
Agreed.
On Fri, 8 Oct 2004 09:46:21 -0500, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"igor" wrote in message
>> Gee, how much of a dumbass can one be? Whoops. I was looking in the
>> mirror.
>
>Sounds like you've visited that elevated plane of consciousness? ... but, if
>you haven't, you will!
Yes, but it's now a warped plane.
Dont atke a chance on your safety, Fingers and hands are priceless. Throw it
away
"Birdy Num-Num" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a moderately warped 10" 60T cc / finishing blade that I use
> mostly for MDF.
> It's nearly new and decent quality, not the best but not cheap
> either.
>
> I was wondering if it's possible to straighten it the next time I
> bring it in for sharpening?
>
> Thanks,
>
> BR
>
On 8 Oct 2004 08:33:55 -0700, "Birdy Num-Num" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>BTW: are the <MUCH> more expensive TS blades (Forrest, CMT, Dimar
>Freud) really worth the 3x $$$ cost. Keep in mind I'm just a weekend
>hack, "building" up my skills with projects for around the house.
>I'm not sure I could justify a $150+ TS blade to SWMBO
>
>Cheers,
>
>BR
As a beginner, I'd say yes. Let's say you want to make mortise and tenon
joints. One can spend much $$ for a machine (or many machines) to do this,
but a rather good job can be done with a simple router and a TS. (And,
even with Neander tools, if one is so inclined.) Better technique can
create a better result. But with a TS blade, AFAIK, no technique with a
so-so TS blade can give you as good a result as you can get with the same
technique and a great TS blade. And, the better blades do give better
results.
Overall, FWIW, the way I look at it, there are so many variables when
woodworking that I like to eliminate some by getting the right tool. It is
why I did not buy a used TS and would not buy a used jointer, though I
would buy other used/refurbed tools. Even a new TS has to be set up, and
even a new one can be defective, but I want to reduce the possibility that
bad results are the fault of the tool. So, I have ponied up for the
Forrest blades. -- Igor
On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 23:28:05 GMT, [email protected] (Dave Mundt) wrote:
> The steel in most blades is NOT that hard.
But it's usually L6 steel, which will harden well and easily - it's
useful stuff.
The rec.knives FAQs are worth reading.
Not all sharpeners offer this service. I have a great local sharpener that
lets the computers and robots do all the work but they do not straighten
blades.
Since you know how it was warped, Forrest offers this service. They will
sharpen and true the blade for a little additional. How ever it may cost
you more to have it repaired than replaced. I spent $41.95 to make a
Forrest WWII cut like new again after I bent the blade. This price was for
sharpening, retrueing, test cutting, and return shipping of a 3 year old 40
tooth blade.
"Birdy Num-Num" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a moderately warped 10" 60T cc / finishing blade that I use
> mostly for MDF.
> It's nearly new and decent quality, not the best but not cheap
> either.
>
> I was wondering if it's possible to straighten it the next time I
> bring it in for sharpening?
>
> Thanks,
>
> BR
>
"igor" wrote in message
> On Thu, 7 Oct 2004 17:26:21 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:
>
> >
> >The number
> >one reason for a warped blade in my shop is forgetting to take out the
zero
> >clearance insert before cranking in some tilt.
> >
> >I hate it when that happens ...
>
> Gee, how much of a dumbass can one be? Whoops. I was looking in the
> mirror.
Sounds like you've visited that elevated plane of consciousness? ... but, if
you haven't, you will!
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04