On Tue, 24 Jul 2007 10:34:39 GMT, "George" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>Cheap. The reason I bought my Makita sharpener was because they wanted
>fifty cents an inch (15 years ago) and I still had to clean up after the
>sharpening on my honing stone.
>
>In the interim I cut a saw kerf in a block of wood at the proper angle,
>wedged the knives in it and raised it with thicknesses of paper and passed
>it beneath a cone-shaped stone on my drillpress. Worked great, but the
>Makita's better.
I'm having a hard time visualizing this sharpening mechanism. Is the
block of wood against a fence to keep equal distance while pushing
the blade across the stone? How is the angle adjusted to the stone
in the drillpress? The joiner blade sharpening angle is 38 degrees.
Otoe
"Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 19:34:04 -0400, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>How does one sharpen a 6 1/2" long joiner blade? Can you do it
>>yourself
>>or must one have them sharpened by a pro?
>
> You can do it yourself but we have ours sharpened.
> If I remember, a set of 3 (6 1/8") costs us about $10.00 plus tax to
> be sharpened. We usually take in a bunch of stuff at one time so we
> do have some volume but the knives are not expensive to have done.
>
Cheap. The reason I bought my Makita sharpener was because they wanted
fifty cents an inch (15 years ago) and I still had to clean up after the
sharpening on my honing stone.
In the interim I cut a saw kerf in a block of wood at the proper angle,
wedged the knives in it and raised it with thicknesses of paper and passed
it beneath a cone-shaped stone on my drillpress. Worked great, but the
Makita's better.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How does one sharpen a 6 1/2" long joiner blade? Can you do it
> yourself
> or must one have them sharpened by a pro?
>
> Otoe
I sharpen my own after every major project.
You can use the veritas jig or you can make your own jig. AND yes, it
works!
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/jigsfixtures.htm
--
www.garagewoodworks.com
"B A R R Y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Mike O. wrote:
>>
>> You can do it yourself but we have ours sharpened. If I remember, a set
>> of 3 (6 1/8") costs us about $10.00 plus tax to
>> be sharpened.
>
> Same here. Straight, non-carbide knives are really cheap to have
> sharpened.
>
> I have three or four sets of planer and jointer blades, rotating a bunch
> out to the sharpener when needed.
I stopped sending mine out because I could do a better job (sharper). The
"professional" sharpening job left rough scratches on the knives.
--
www.garagewoodworks.com
On Tue, 24 Jul 2007 20:59:52 GMT, "George" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"dpb" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> Otoe wrote:
>>> On Tue, 24 Jul 2007 10:34:39 GMT, "George" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I believe he's saying saw the kerf in the block at the proper angle and
>> insert the knife into it to hold it. Then the edge runs against the
>> surface of the stone.
>>
>> --
>If you're a member over at FWW, run the index. Kerf is at the proper angle
>to present the bevel parallel to the table of the drillpress. 38 if that's
>yours. The stone is lowered to kiss the tallest knife, then sheets of paper
>added under to raise the entire apparatus as it's slud left and right..
Oh, additionally, could a drum sander be used instead of a stone? Or
would that cause a tempering problem?
Otoe
I use a tormek which works great. It's very spendy though, especially with
all the jigs. However, their jig is wide enough to do 12" planer blades
too, so I don't have to send to send out anymore.
Mike
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How does one sharpen a 6 1/2" long joiner blade? Can you do it
> yourself
> or must one have them sharpened by a pro?
>
> Otoe
Mike O. wrote:
>
> You can do it yourself but we have ours sharpened.
> If I remember, a set of 3 (6 1/8") costs us about $10.00 plus tax to
> be sharpened.
Same here. Straight, non-carbide knives are really cheap to have sharpened.
I have three or four sets of planer and jointer blades, rotating a bunch
out to the sharpener when needed.
<Otoe> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>>If you're a member over at FWW, run the index. Kerf is at the proper
>>angle
>>to present the bevel parallel to the table of the drillpress. 38 if
>>that's
>>yours. The stone is lowered to kiss the tallest knife, then sheets of
>>paper
>>added under to raise the entire apparatus as it's slud left and right..
>
> I got the kerf concept with the blade placement. The issue is
> moving the blade across the stone and keeping the blade
> straight so you have a straight, sharp blade on the tip.
> Somehow, I'd think the kerf jig has to be maintained the
> same distance from the stone so you don't put a smilely
> across the blade.
>
> Is the blade just being dragged across the stone? If so,
> how does one get a straight edge across the blade?
>
The blade and its holder/jig are moved as one while sitting on the
drillpress table. Since the quill is locked, the setup doesn't even really
demand a perfectly flat or perpendicular table for reference. The distance
from stone to table and in between is just diminished by sheets of paper or
increased by wear on the stone.
"dpb" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Otoe wrote:
>> On Tue, 24 Jul 2007 10:34:39 GMT, "George" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Cheap. The reason I bought my Makita sharpener was because they wanted
>>> fifty cents an inch (15 years ago) and I still had to clean up after
>>> the sharpening on my honing stone.
>>>
>>> In the interim I cut a saw kerf in a block of wood at the proper angle,
>>> wedged the knives in it and raised it with thicknesses of paper and
>>> passed it beneath a cone-shaped stone on my drillpress. Worked great,
>>> but the Makita's better.
>>
>>
>> I'm having a hard time visualizing this sharpening mechanism. Is the
>> block of wood against a fence to keep equal distance while pushing
>> the blade across the stone? How is the angle adjusted to the stone
>> in the drillpress? The joiner blade sharpening angle is 38 degrees.
>
> I believe he's saying saw the kerf in the block at the proper angle and
> insert the knife into it to hold it. Then the edge runs against the
> surface of the stone.
>
> --
If you're a member over at FWW, run the index. Kerf is at the proper angle
to present the bevel parallel to the table of the drillpress. 38 if that's
yours. The stone is lowered to kiss the tallest knife, then sheets of paper
added under to raise the entire apparatus as it's slud left and right..
On Tue, 24 Jul 2007 17:35:24 -0700, "Mike Dembroge"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I use a tormek which works great. It's very spendy though, especially with
>all the jigs. However, their jig is wide enough to do 12" planer blades
>too, so I don't have to send to send out anymore.
>
>Mike
I looked that up and found the cost too steep. I'm on the cheap
and it appears the best overall solution is to buy new blades;
as its a two blade Sears jointer and costs about $17 for the pair.
I just hit the blades with a hard knot that dinged up the blades.
Any guess the sharpening cost for 6 1/4" blades?
Otoe
Otoe wrote:
> On Tue, 24 Jul 2007 10:34:39 GMT, "George" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>> Cheap. The reason I bought my Makita sharpener was because they wanted
>> fifty cents an inch (15 years ago) and I still had to clean up after the
>> sharpening on my honing stone.
>>
>> In the interim I cut a saw kerf in a block of wood at the proper angle,
>> wedged the knives in it and raised it with thicknesses of paper and passed
>> it beneath a cone-shaped stone on my drillpress. Worked great, but the
>> Makita's better.
>
>
> I'm having a hard time visualizing this sharpening mechanism. Is the
> block of wood against a fence to keep equal distance while pushing
> the blade across the stone? How is the angle adjusted to the stone
> in the drillpress? The joiner blade sharpening angle is 38 degrees.
I believe he's saying saw the kerf in the block at the proper angle and
insert the knife into it to hold it. Then the edge runs against the
surface of the stone.
--
[email protected] wrote:
> How does one sharpen a 6 1/2" long joiner blade? Can you do it
> yourself
> or must one have them sharpened by a pro?
>
> Otoe
You could use the Veritas Jointer Blade Sharpening Jig:
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/veritasplanerbladejig.htm
Review:
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/veritasplanerbladejig.htm
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 19:34:04 -0400, [email protected] wrote:
>How does one sharpen a 6 1/2" long joiner blade? Can you do it
>yourself
>or must one have them sharpened by a pro?
You can do it yourself but we have ours sharpened.
If I remember, a set of 3 (6 1/8") costs us about $10.00 plus tax to
be sharpened. We usually take in a bunch of stuff at one time so we
do have some volume but the knives are not expensive to have done.
Mike O.
On Tue, 24 Jul 2007 20:59:52 GMT, "George" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"dpb" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> Otoe wrote:
>>> On Tue, 24 Jul 2007 10:34:39 GMT, "George" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I'm having a hard time visualizing this sharpening mechanism. Is the
>>> block of wood against a fence to keep equal distance while pushing
>>> the blade across the stone? How is the angle adjusted to the stone
>>> in the drillpress? The joiner blade sharpening angle is 38 degrees.
>>
>> I believe he's saying saw the kerf in the block at the proper angle and
>> insert the knife into it to hold it. Then the edge runs against the
>> surface of the stone.
>>
>> --
>If you're a member over at FWW, run the index. Kerf is at the proper angle
>to present the bevel parallel to the table of the drillpress. 38 if that's
>yours. The stone is lowered to kiss the tallest knife, then sheets of paper
>added under to raise the entire apparatus as it's slud left and right..
I got the kerf concept with the blade placement. The issue is
moving the blade across the stone and keeping the blade
straight so you have a straight, sharp blade on the tip.
Somehow, I'd think the kerf jig has to be maintained the
same distance from the stone so you don't put a smilely
across the blade.
Is the blade just being dragged across the stone? If so,
how does one get a straight edge across the blade?
Otoe