Well, I think I'm ready to glue sets of 3 3.5" boards for my intro project
to make the sides, top, bottom, and shelf. I think I understand the
basics - apply a healthy amount of glue to each adjoining edge (enough glue
to where just a bit squeezes out when clamped), clamp about every foot of
so, and let dry per mfg specs (preferably overnight, if possible).
Any advice of tips on gluing the butt edges (I've decided to follow the
majority of the advice here and pass on the dowels, by the way)?
Thanks
"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote
: "loutent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
: news:250920041707445658%[email protected]...
: > I would definitely "joint" the edges before
: > you glue. Be sure there are no visible spaces
: > between the boards - don't rely on clamping pressure
: > to try to squeeze them together.
:
: I do have a few hairlines of space between boards when I hold them up to
the
: sun. Worth waiting another 5 days until I can try jointing them again at
: class (I'm kind of falling behind, by the way - there are only 3 classes
: left)?
You could try my web site - Planing Notes - Rub Jointing for some advice
about planing the edges.
Jeff G
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
Email: username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net
On scraps suggest try two things, (1) "healthy" amount to see what
this quantity is as I'd expect you'll get more than anticipated and
(2) try the brads into one edge then cut off leaving a sharp point for
aligning the other board. On longish assemblies alternate clamps
above and below to avoid cupping from clamp pressure. To help this
approach I made a couple of supports to set the glueup on from scrap
3/4" ply with plastic glued to top edge to avoid glue sticking to
them.
On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 16:20:40 GMT, "Corey" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Well, I think I'm ready to glue sets of 3 3.5" boards for my intro project
>to make the sides, top, bottom, and shelf. I think I understand the
>basics - apply a healthy amount of glue to each adjoining edge (enough glue
>to where just a bit squeezes out when clamped), clamp about every foot of
>so, and let dry per mfg specs (preferably overnight, if possible).
>
>Any advice of tips on gluing the butt edges (I've decided to follow the
>majority of the advice here and pass on the dowels, by the way)?
>
>Thanks
>
>
I don't think it makes too much difference whether
or not you use biscuits. I have done it both ways
many times and you will be ok either way.
I would definitely "joint" the edges before
you glue. Be sure there are no visible spaces
between the boards - don't rely on clamping pressure
to try to squeeze them together.
Plane the boards to the same thickness to avoid
excessive sanding later - don't assume they are
the same unless they came from the same long board.
If you are using pipe clamps (which I do), I place
wax paper over them where the pipe may contact & stain the
wood.
Alternate clamps (top/bottom). For your 3 boards, you
prpbably won't need a caul, but it something to keep in
mind if you ever do bigger glue-ups.
Good gluing!
Lou
In article <sVg5d.3107$Cn.3014@trnddc04>, Corey <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Well, I think I'm ready to glue sets of 3 3.5" boards for my intro project
> to make the sides, top, bottom, and shelf. I think I understand the
> basics - apply a healthy amount of glue to each adjoining edge (enough glue
> to where just a bit squeezes out when clamped), clamp about every foot of
> so, and let dry per mfg specs (preferably overnight, if possible).
>
> Any advice of tips on gluing the butt edges (I've decided to follow the
> majority of the advice here and pass on the dowels, by the way)?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
Hi (again) Corey,
At this point, I think you have more information
than necessary to glue-up a few boards.
Try it and use whatever hints that
seem right for your situation.
Remember to have fun-that will keep you
interested.
Lou
In article <xrn5d.962$ku4.133@trnddc01>, Corey <[email protected]>
wrote:
> "loutent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:250920041707445658%[email protected]...
> > I would definitely "joint" the edges before
> > you glue. Be sure there are no visible spaces
> > between the boards - don't rely on clamping pressure
> > to try to squeeze them together.
>
> I do have a few hairlines of space between boards when I hold them up to the
> sun. Worth waiting another 5 days until I can try jointing them again at
> class (I'm kind of falling behind, by the way - there are only 3 classes
> left)?
>
>
> >
> > Plane the boards to the same thickness to avoid
> > excessive sanding later - don't assume they are
> > the same unless they came from the same long board.
>
> The pieces are from the same long board. But there still is a little (very
> slight) thickness variation. I'm hoping not too much that I can't just sand
> out once glued up.
>
> If one board has a slight bow (maybe 1/16" across 30" of board),
> could/should I run it through the face through the jointer (these are only
> 3.5" boards) instead of a planer (don't think I have access to a planer)?
>
> >
> > If you are using pipe clamps (which I do), I place
> > wax paper over them where the pipe may contact & stain the
> > wood.
>
> I just found out the hard way about the clamps touching and staining the
> wood during my dry run. I won't lay the clamps across the wood now. I
> don't have pipe clamps. All I have are the "quick clamps" that have the
> squeeze handle.
>
> >
> > Alternate clamps (top/bottom). For your 3 boards, you
> > prpbably won't need a caul, but it something to keep in
> > mind if you ever do bigger glue-ups.
>
>
> Not sure how to go about alternating top and bottom. If I have a clamp on
> bottom, won't the panet "sit" on these bottom clamps? I'm having trouble
> envisioning how this would work. I get what you're saying conceptually,
> just not visualizing it. I'm also not seeing how I'll keep the boards flat
> across if I'm trying to put clamps underneath too. Won't the pieces shift
> around while I'm switching from working on top and bottom?
>
>
>
The wood working reference is a board used between 2 or more clamps to
distribute the lamping force across the width of the panel being glued.
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Zdl5d.7421$%[email protected]...
>I give up, what is a caul?
>
>
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Zdl5d.7421$%[email protected]...
>I give up, what is a caul?
1.. A portion of the amnion, especially when it covers the head of a fetus
at birth. Also called pileus.
If you are using Titebond 2 or 3 don't wipe your hands on your pants.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:sVg5d.3107$Cn.3014@trnddc04...
> Well, I think I'm ready to glue sets of 3 3.5" boards for my intro project
> to make the sides, top, bottom, and shelf. I think I understand the
> basics - apply a healthy amount of glue to each adjoining edge (enough
glue
> to where just a bit squeezes out when clamped), clamp about every foot of
> so, and let dry per mfg specs (preferably overnight, if possible).
>
> Any advice of tips on gluing the butt edges (I've decided to follow the
> majority of the advice here and pass on the dowels, by the way)?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
"Mike Gerdts" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I stopped by Rockler and found that they
> sell zinc pipes that seem less likely to discolor the wood than the
> black pipes.
Is this something other than the plain galvanized pipe from the hardware
store?
"loutent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:250920041707445658%[email protected]...
> I would definitely "joint" the edges before
> you glue. Be sure there are no visible spaces
> between the boards - don't rely on clamping pressure
> to try to squeeze them together.
This isn't necessarily true. In fact, I've read in more than one place
(Kelly Mehler comes to mind) that suggests to have just a slight amount of
space toward the middle of the boards. When clamped, this creates
additional tension at the edges where a glued joint would be more likely to
fail. At least that's the theory. Personally, I joint them flat,
todd
On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 22:14:29 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> scribbled:
>The wood working reference is a board used between 2 or more clamps to
>distribute the lamping force across the width of the panel being glued.
Pitcher here:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00004.asp
Look at "B".
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
loutent wrote:
> If you are using pipe clamps (which I do), I place
> wax paper over them where the pipe may contact & stain the
> wood.
I noticed this with my black pipes. This weekend I went out looking
for the extra clamps that made up enough to clamp a plant stand
together. In my searches I stopped by Rockler and found that they
sell zinc pipes that seem less likely to discolor the wood than the
black pipes. Sale price was $60 for 4 3/4" pipe clamps with 3' zinc
pipes.
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=10818
Rather interestingly, these cost the same as pony clamps and black
pipes from Home Depot, Menards, and Woodcraft. When I searched
the wreck for the Rockler clamps, they seemed to be liked just a
bit better than the traditional pipe clamps.
Mike
> Any advice of tips on gluing the butt edges (I've decided to follow the
> majority of the advice here and pass on the dowels, by the way)?
>
I don't know what majority advice you are referring to, but I would
definitely use biscuits. Aside from adding strength, you have a much better
chance of getting good alignment.
I would suggest a dry run, try clamping the assembly with no glue; the edges
should close perfectly. If they don't, plane them until they do. It is
best if the edges meet first at the ends of the boards so that the clamps
can bring the middles together.
Good luck!
"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:sVg5d.3107$Cn.3014@trnddc04...
> Well, I think I'm ready to glue sets of 3 3.5" boards for my intro project
> to make the sides, top, bottom, and shelf. I think I understand the
> basics - apply a healthy amount of glue to each adjoining edge (enough
glue
> to where just a bit squeezes out when clamped), clamp about every foot of
> so, and let dry per mfg specs (preferably overnight, if possible).
>
> Any advice of tips on gluing the butt edges (I've decided to follow the
> majority of the advice here and pass on the dowels, by the way)?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
Visualize a capital T upside down to lay the boards on to clamp. I
used 3/4" scrap ply and glued plastic on the top edge to avoid glue
adhering to them.
On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 23:46:37 GMT, "Corey" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Not sure how to go about alternating top and bottom. If I have a clamp on
>bottom, won't the panet "sit" on these bottom clamps? I'm having trouble
>envisioning how this would work. I get what you're saying conceptually,
>just not visualizing it. I'm also not seeing how I'll keep the boards flat
>across if I'm trying to put clamps underneath too. Won't the pieces shift
>around while I'm switching from working on top and bottom?
"loutent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:250920041707445658%[email protected]...
> I would definitely "joint" the edges before
> you glue. Be sure there are no visible spaces
> between the boards - don't rely on clamping pressure
> to try to squeeze them together.
I do have a few hairlines of space between boards when I hold them up to the
sun. Worth waiting another 5 days until I can try jointing them again at
class (I'm kind of falling behind, by the way - there are only 3 classes
left)?
>
> Plane the boards to the same thickness to avoid
> excessive sanding later - don't assume they are
> the same unless they came from the same long board.
The pieces are from the same long board. But there still is a little (very
slight) thickness variation. I'm hoping not too much that I can't just sand
out once glued up.
If one board has a slight bow (maybe 1/16" across 30" of board),
could/should I run it through the face through the jointer (these are only
3.5" boards) instead of a planer (don't think I have access to a planer)?
>
> If you are using pipe clamps (which I do), I place
> wax paper over them where the pipe may contact & stain the
> wood.
I just found out the hard way about the clamps touching and staining the
wood during my dry run. I won't lay the clamps across the wood now. I
don't have pipe clamps. All I have are the "quick clamps" that have the
squeeze handle.
>
> Alternate clamps (top/bottom). For your 3 boards, you
> prpbably won't need a caul, but it something to keep in
> mind if you ever do bigger glue-ups.
Not sure how to go about alternating top and bottom. If I have a clamp on
bottom, won't the panet "sit" on these bottom clamps? I'm having trouble
envisioning how this would work. I get what you're saying conceptually,
just not visualizing it. I'm also not seeing how I'll keep the boards flat
across if I'm trying to put clamps underneath too. Won't the pieces shift
around while I'm switching from working on top and bottom?