Accuracy of Compound Mitre Saws

My Porter Cable 3802L miter saw is dead-on accurate especially for the
stopped angles. For non-stopped angles, there can be a little error in your
setting of the angle due to parallax, but a couple test cuts and an accurate
protractor generally dial it in easily. I use it for furniture miters, and
trim miters. Crown moulding compound miters are perfect. The dual lasers
on either side of the kerf is GREAT. No complaints what-so-ever.

Brian.


"Gary Dean" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
> almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
> essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some
> way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve
> absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of
> cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to
> achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be
> gratefully received.
> Gary

Sun, Jul 4, 2004, 5:07pm (EDT+4) [email protected] (Gary=A0Dean)
claims:
I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw <snip>

You didn't mean "sliding", and just left that out, did you?

is it possible to achieve absolute accuracy with a mitre saw

Yes. "Probable" now, is a different mater.

and if so and where, on the scale of cheap-and-cheerful to
money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to achieve the accuracy I am
looking for?

Depends. You can get a high price one that is off, or an el cheapo
that is right on.

Any recommendations will be gratefully received.

Pick one you like, and can afford, and check it out.

Make a saw sled, or several. Their setting shouldn't change.

I've got an older Craftsman manual mitre saw, plenty accurate. Ran
me around $20, shipping included, on eBay. Used to have a neighbor, who
had a lovely cast iron base manual mitre saw, brand unknown, dead
accurate. If I could find one of those for sale, I'd pick it up in a
heartbeat.

JOAT
Just because it's not nice doesn't mean it's not miraculous.
- Interesting Times

On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:07:09 GMT, Gary Dean <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
> almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
> essential.

If absolute accuracy is required, stay away from the Makita 10"
sliding compound miter saw. Unless they have changed their design
very recently, the pivot pin that goes into the base through the
table is a steel pin in the aluminum casting, and it wears the
casting hole to an oblong shape. Once that happens, there's no way
to fix it (not enough room to put in a bushing, even) and Makita's
only suggestion is to keep replacing bases if you care about cut accuracy.

To be fair to the saw, I did build my house using it for all of the
hip rafters (2x10 Douglass Fir), so it has some miles on it, but:
A) It's only built _one_ house, and B) a design which has such an
obvious wear point with no provision for repair, is to be avoided.

Dave Hinz

| Friends, there may be a new jointer in my near future...


We live in hope.

Wes wrote:

> On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:07:09 GMT, Gary Dean <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> |I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
> |almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
> |essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some
> |way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve
> |absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of
> |cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to
> |achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be
> |gratefully received.
>
> Nothing is absolutely accurate, however, I find my 12" DeWalt
> (non-sliding) CMS to be adequately accurate and nearly bulletproof.
>
> I've routinely crosscut stock for dovetailed drawers and face frames,
> which I think is a fair test of whether things are square or not. If
> there is one occasional downside it is minor chipout on the exit side
> of the cut.
>
> But this is with the original blade that I have used (and abused) for
> years. I framed my house addition, cut pvc and abs pipe, aluminum
> stock and chopped up 2X lumber for firewood that's been laying on the
> ground for an extended time. And my neighbor built his house addition
> with it too.
>
> One of these days I'll get it sharpened or buy a better crosscut
> blade. [g]
>
> Wes
I have the same saw and I made a zero clearance insert and put on a 80
tooth crosscut blade (Freud) and I no longer have the chipout problem
you describe.

Glen

Wes wrote:

> On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:07:09 GMT, Gary Dean <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> |I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
> |almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
> |essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some
> |way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve
> |absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of
> |cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to
> |achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be
> |gratefully received.
>
> Nothing is absolutely accurate, however, I find my 12" DeWalt
> (non-sliding) CMS to be adequately accurate and nearly bulletproof.
>
> I've routinely crosscut stock for dovetailed drawers and face frames,
> which I think is a fair test of whether things are square or not. If
> there is one occasional downside it is minor chipout on the exit side
> of the cut.
>
> But this is with the original blade that I have used (and abused) for
> years. I framed my house addition, cut pvc and abs pipe, aluminum
> stock and chopped up 2X lumber for firewood that's been laying on the
> ground for an extended time. And my neighbor built his house addition
> with it too.
>
> One of these days I'll get it sharpened or buy a better crosscut
> blade. [g]
>
> Wes
I have the same saw and I made a zero clearance insert and put on a 80
tooth crosscut blade (Freud) and I no longer have the chipout problem
you describe.

Glen

Wes wrote:

> On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:07:09 GMT, Gary Dean <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> |I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
> |almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
> |essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some
> |way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve
> |absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of
> |cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to
> |achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be
> |gratefully received.
>
> Nothing is absolutely accurate, however, I find my 12" DeWalt
> (non-sliding) CMS to be adequately accurate and nearly bulletproof.
>
> I've routinely crosscut stock for dovetailed drawers and face frames,
> which I think is a fair test of whether things are square or not. If
> there is one occasional downside it is minor chipout on the exit side
> of the cut.
>
> But this is with the original blade that I have used (and abused) for
> years. I framed my house addition, cut pvc and abs pipe, aluminum
> stock and chopped up 2X lumber for firewood that's been laying on the
> ground for an extended time. And my neighbor built his house addition
> with it too.
>
> One of these days I'll get it sharpened or buy a better crosscut
> blade. [g]
>
> Wes
I have the same saw and I made a zero clearance insert and put on a 80
tooth crosscut blade (Freud) and I no longer have the chipout problem
you describe.

Glen

Wes wrote:

> On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:07:09 GMT, Gary Dean <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> |I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
> |almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
> |essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some
> |way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve
> |absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of
> |cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to
> |achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be
> |gratefully received.
>
> Nothing is absolutely accurate, however, I find my 12" DeWalt
> (non-sliding) CMS to be adequately accurate and nearly bulletproof.
>
> I've routinely crosscut stock for dovetailed drawers and face frames,
> which I think is a fair test of whether things are square or not. If
> there is one occasional downside it is minor chipout on the exit side
> of the cut.
>
> But this is with the original blade that I have used (and abused) for
> years. I framed my house addition, cut pvc and abs pipe, aluminum
> stock and chopped up 2X lumber for firewood that's been laying on the
> ground for an extended time. And my neighbor built his house addition
> with it too.
>
> One of these days I'll get it sharpened or buy a better crosscut
> blade. [g]
>
> Wes
I have the same saw and I made a zero clearance insert and put on a 80
tooth crosscut blade (Freud) and I no longer have the chipout problem
you describe.

Glen

Wes wrote:

> On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:07:09 GMT, Gary Dean <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> |I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
> |almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
> |essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some
> |way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve
> |absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of
> |cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to
> |achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be
> |gratefully received.
>
> Nothing is absolutely accurate, however, I find my 12" DeWalt
> (non-sliding) CMS to be adequately accurate and nearly bulletproof.
>
> I've routinely crosscut stock for dovetailed drawers and face frames,
> which I think is a fair test of whether things are square or not. If
> there is one occasional downside it is minor chipout on the exit side
> of the cut.
>
> But this is with the original blade that I have used (and abused) for
> years. I framed my house addition, cut pvc and abs pipe, aluminum
> stock and chopped up 2X lumber for firewood that's been laying on the
> ground for an extended time. And my neighbor built his house addition
> with it too.
>
> One of these days I'll get it sharpened or buy a better crosscut
> blade. [g]
>
> Wes
I have the same saw and added a zero clearance insert and a Freud 80
tooth crosscut blade and the chipout problem was solved.

Glen

Wes wrote:

> On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:07:09 GMT, Gary Dean <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> |I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
> |almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
> |essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some
> |way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve
> |absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of
> |cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to
> |achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be
> |gratefully received.
>
> Nothing is absolutely accurate, however, I find my 12" DeWalt
> (non-sliding) CMS to be adequately accurate and nearly bulletproof.
>
> I've routinely crosscut stock for dovetailed drawers and face frames,
> which I think is a fair test of whether things are square or not. If
> there is one occasional downside it is minor chipout on the exit side
> of the cut.
>
> But this is with the original blade that I have used (and abused) for
> years. I framed my house addition, cut pvc and abs pipe, aluminum
> stock and chopped up 2X lumber for firewood that's been laying on the
> ground for an extended time. And my neighbor built his house addition
> with it too.
>
> One of these days I'll get it sharpened or buy a better crosscut
> blade. [g]
>
> Wes

Wes wrote:

> On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:07:09 GMT, Gary Dean <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> |I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
> |almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
> |essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some
> |way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve
> |absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of
> |cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to
> |achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be
> |gratefully received.
>
> Nothing is absolutely accurate, however, I find my 12" DeWalt
> (non-sliding) CMS to be adequately accurate and nearly bulletproof.
>
> I've routinely crosscut stock for dovetailed drawers and face frames,
> which I think is a fair test of whether things are square or not. If
> there is one occasional downside it is minor chipout on the exit side
> of the cut.
>
> But this is with the original blade that I have used (and abused) for
> years. I framed my house addition, cut pvc and abs pipe, aluminum
> stock and chopped up 2X lumber for firewood that's been laying on the
> ground for an extended time. And my neighbor built his house addition
> with it too.
>
> One of these days I'll get it sharpened or buy a better crosscut
> blade. [g]
>
> Wes

I have the same saw, but I added a zero clearance insert and a Freud 80
tooth blade and I no longer have the chipout problem.

Glen

Yes. I have a 12" DeWalt compound miter saw and it is very accurate.
The compound cut is not as accurate as the miter cut. A sliding miter
saw is nice to have and more expensive, but I suspect a plain miter
saw is less likely to get "out of tune." Stick with the well-known
brands (DeWalt, Delta, Porter Cable, Milwaukee, Makita, etc).

On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:07:09 GMT, Gary Dean <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
>almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
>essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some
>way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve
>absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of
>cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to
>achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be
>gratefully received.
>Gary

>I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
essential.

Then you need a good used DeWalt RAS!

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

You didn't specify an accuracy level so the answer has to be yes, no, maybe.

"Gary Dean" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
> almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
> essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some
> way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve
> absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of
> cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to
> achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be
> gratefully received.
> Gary

"Gary Dean" wrote in message
> I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
> almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
> essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some
> way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve
> absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of
> cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to
> achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be
> gratefully received.

I have my doubts as to whether "absolute accuracy" is obtainable, or even
necessary, with wood and woodworking machinery.

My Makita LS1013 is certainly accurate enough for trim work. Consider that
theoretically there should be less flex and runout at the edge of a 10"
blade, then with a 12" blade.

For "accurate" miters in fine furniture, I use a table saw sled (picture on
the jigs and fixture page on the site below).

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/15/04

Wally wrote:
> I also purchased the Porter-Cable 3802L after an extensive research
> for accuracy in miter saws.


I have one also.

I didn't do much research, I just looked how the saw and it's competition were
built.




--

Mark

N.E. Ohio

In theory there is no difference between theory and practice, but in practice
there is.

Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens, A.K.A.
Mark Twain)

When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the suspense.
(Gaz, r.moto)

Wes wrote:

> On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:07:09 GMT, Gary Dean <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> |I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
> |almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
> |essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some
> |way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve
> |absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of
> |cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to
> |achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be
> |gratefully received.
>
> Nothing is absolutely accurate, however, I find my 12" DeWalt
> (non-sliding) CMS to be adequately accurate and nearly bulletproof.
>
> I've routinely crosscut stock for dovetailed drawers and face frames,
> which I think is a fair test of whether things are square or not. If
> there is one occasional downside it is minor chipout on the exit side
> of the cut.
>
> But this is with the original blade that I have used (and abused) for
> years. I framed my house addition, cut pvc and abs pipe, aluminum
> stock and chopped up 2X lumber for firewood that's been laying on the
> ground for an extended time. And my neighbor built his house addition
> with it too.
>
> One of these days I'll get it sharpened or buy a better crosscut
> blade. [g]
>
> Wes

I have the same saw, but I added a zero clearance insert and a Freud 80
tooth blade and I no longer have the chipout problem.

Glen

Wes <n7ws@_yahoo.com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Nothing is absolutely accurate, however, I find my 12" DeWalt
> (non-sliding) CMS to be adequately accurate and nearly bulletproof.
>
> I've routinely crosscut stock for dovetailed drawers and face frames,
> which I think is a fair test of whether things are square or not. If
> there is one occasional downside it is minor chipout on the exit side
> of the cut.
>
> But this is with the original blade that I have used (and abused) for
> years. I framed my house addition, cut pvc and abs pipe, aluminum
> stock and chopped up 2X lumber for firewood that's been laying on the
> ground for an extended time. And my neighbor built his house addition
> with it too.
>
> One of these days I'll get it sharpened or buy a better crosscut
> blade. [g]
>
> Wes

I've got the 705. Spent $50 on the DeWalt 80T blade, and it got much
better. Kept the old blade for the tubafors, etc.

Anything for really fine work gets done on the tablesaw, but the CMS gets
used for almost every shop session and project. Money well spent.

Patriarch

"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

>
> "patriarch
>> I've got the 705. Spent $50 on the DeWalt 80T blade, and it got much
>> better. Kept the old blade for the tubafors, etc.
>>
>
> I had my original blade re-sharpened by Ridge Carbide Tool. Cuts better
> now than when it was new. I also planed on upgrading, but the sharpening
> was enough for me.
> Ed
>
I need to take a few blades over to my local service this week. We spent
most of the week ripping up the old subfloor (pet problems), and (the most
dangerous words a homeowner can speak) 'while we're at it', stiffening the
floor joist systems in the living and family rooms. The table saw blade I
used needs sharpening, and the CMS blades could almost certainly use a tune
up. I'm thinking that the framing saw blade is disposable.

All this work, and only one new tool - a reciprocating saw. But today, my
wife said the magic words: "all those tools certainly came in handy. I
hate to think what we would have had to pay a contractor to do all of
that." Friends, there may be a new jointer in my near future...

Patriarch

As I just bought one, was curious to read through the thread and see if
anybody said more than good/bad. If so, I missed it. I'm also not sure where
your cabinet work needs _that_ much accuracy. Further, you've got three
different angles to check, and you typically don't need the same accuracy in
each. You do, of course, need repeatability, and sometimes that's more
important.

Checking my new one, it came in off 6mils/inch from square to the base, and
adjusted +/-2mils/inch (inc. blade flatness). You won't get much better than
that, and the real question there is repeatability after much use.

As for the bevel angle when tilting, forget accuracy as you can't even read
the little marks well enough, and angle blocks are the way to go.

Watch especially instead for comments like Dave's (thanks, DaveHinz) on the
Makita slider and the pivot wear. Repeatability and wear are the real issues.

Finally, if you insist on accuracy, get a TsAligner or dial indicator,
precision angle blocks and squares. But that's rarely needed unless you're
doing wooden machinery.

GerryG



On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:07:09 GMT, Gary Dean <[email protected]> wrote:

>I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
>almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
>essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some
>way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve
>absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of
>cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to
>achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be
>gratefully received.
>Gary

My 2 cents:

A CMS is great when you want to crosscut long stock that would be too
awkward to cut on the TS (like baseboard trim)

For stock < 4' I think a good sled (preferably a couple special-purpose
ones) can work just as well and can be built for next to nothing. I would
start there.

-Steve




"Gary Dean" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
> almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
> essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some
> way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve
> absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of
> cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to
> achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be
> gratefully received.
> Gary

On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:07:09 GMT, Gary Dean <[email protected]>
wrote:

|I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
|almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
|essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some
|way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve
|absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of
|cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to
|achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be
|gratefully received.

Nothing is absolutely accurate, however, I find my 12" DeWalt
(non-sliding) CMS to be adequately accurate and nearly bulletproof.

I've routinely crosscut stock for dovetailed drawers and face frames,
which I think is a fair test of whether things are square or not. If
there is one occasional downside it is minor chipout on the exit side
of the cut.

But this is with the original blade that I have used (and abused) for
years. I framed my house addition, cut pvc and abs pipe, aluminum
stock and chopped up 2X lumber for firewood that's been laying on the
ground for an extended time. And my neighbor built his house addition
with it too.

One of these days I'll get it sharpened or buy a better crosscut
blade. [g]

Wes

Gary Dean wrote:

> I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
> almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
> essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some
> way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve
> absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of
> cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to
> achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be
> gratefully received.
> Gary
if it isn't a slider you would be fine with something like
the Dewalt compound or double compound (not sure that's the
correct nomenclature) model. I have the compound one it
will hold any setting you throw at it. Set the saw, do a
test cut, and if ok, the Dewalt will hold the setting
indefinitely. Reading the scale is iffy but with practice
you'll be able to tell what it's set at.

dave

"patriarch
> I've got the 705. Spent $50 on the DeWalt 80T blade, and it got much
> better. Kept the old blade for the tubafors, etc.
>

I had my original blade re-sharpened by Ridge Carbide Tool. Cuts better
now than when it was new. I also planed on upgrading, but the sharpening
was enough for me.
Ed

I also purchased the Porter-Cable 3802L after an extensive research
for accuracy in miter saws. Even though a lot of people are thinking
that a sliding 10" miter saw is usually very accurate (Makita LS1013
or the Hitachi's), a fixed 12" miter saw is even more accurate. And
it's not me who claims it but Mr. John White in his book "Care and
Repair of Shop Machines" at page 180in the upper left corner.

Book link:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/156158424X/qid=1088975655/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/102-8551983-9227352?v=glance&s=books

Unless you need the 12" cutting capacity that a sliding miter saw
provides, you will be a lot more satisfied with a high quality 12"
regular miter saw as for accuracy.

Wally


On Sun, 4 Jul 2004 09:40:26 -0700, "Brian" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>My Porter Cable 3802L miter saw is dead-on accurate especially for the
>stopped angles. For non-stopped angles, there can be a little error in your
>setting of the angle due to parallax, but a couple test cuts and an accurate
>protractor generally dial it in easily. I use it for furniture miters, and
>trim miters. Crown moulding compound miters are perfect. The dual lasers
>on either side of the kerf is GREAT. No complaints what-so-ever.
>
>Brian.
>
>
>"Gary Dean" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
>> almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
>> essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some
>> way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve
>> absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of
>> cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to
>> achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be
>> gratefully received.
>> Gary
>

On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:07:09 GMT, Gary Dean <[email protected]> wrote:

>I am very tempted to buy myself a compound mitre saw which will be used
>almost exclusively for cabinet type work where absolute accuracy is
>essential. I guess the accuracy of any piece of machinery is in some
>way proportional to the cost. My question - is it possible to achieve
>absolute accuracy with a mitre saw and if so and where, on the scale of
>cheap-and-cheerful to money-no-object-of-the-range can one expect to
>achieve the accuracy I am looking for? Any recommendations will be
>gratefully received.

Accuracy is dependant on how often and how carefully you change the settings.
You want day in and day out accuracy buy a table saw sled and one of these.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=32922&category=1,42884