WA

"William Andersen"

15/08/2007 9:35 AM

removing rust from jointer

Any ideas on removing rust from the bed of a jointer?
I use paste wax on my tools, but didn't use the jointer for several years.
The rust is too thick to wipe off: I'm pretty sure I'll have to sand it.
Is there a liquid rust remover to use first?
Is there anything better than mineral spirits for removing paste wax from
metal to have a clean surface to protect again?


This topic has 11 replies

RN

RayV

in reply to "William Andersen" on 15/08/2007 9:35 AM

15/08/2007 6:30 AM

On Aug 15, 9:35 am, "William Andersen" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Any ideas on removing rust from the bed of a jointer?
> I use paste wax on my tools, but didn't use the jointer for several years.
> The rust is too thick to wipe off: I'm pretty sure I'll have to sand it.
> Is there a liquid rust remover to use first?
> Is there anything better than mineral spirits for removing paste wax from
> metal to have a clean surface to protect again?

WD-40 and scotch-brite pads work well. Just let the WD-40 sit for a
while then scrub away. I have heard of others putting the scotch-
brite under a sander but never tried it.

FH

Father Haskell

in reply to "William Andersen" on 15/08/2007 9:35 AM

15/08/2007 10:47 AM

On Aug 15, 9:30 am, RayV <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Aug 15, 9:35 am, "William Andersen" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Any ideas on removing rust from the bed of a jointer?
> > I use paste wax on my tools, but didn't use the jointer for several years.
> > The rust is too thick to wipe off: I'm pretty sure I'll have to sand it.
> > Is there a liquid rust remover to use first?
> > Is there anything better than mineral spirits for removing paste wax from
> > metal to have a clean surface to protect again?
>
> WD-40 and scotch-brite pads work well. Just let the WD-40 sit for a
> while then scrub away. I have heard of others putting the scotch-
> brite under a sander but never tried it.

Sticks fine to the velcro base on an ROS. Great way to denib
between finish coats, too.

MM

"Mike Marlow"

in reply to "William Andersen" on 15/08/2007 9:35 AM

15/08/2007 11:01 AM


"William Andersen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Any ideas on removing rust from the bed of a jointer?
> I use paste wax on my tools, but didn't use the jointer for several years.
> The rust is too thick to wipe off: I'm pretty sure I'll have to sand it.
> Is there a liquid rust remover to use first?
> Is there anything better than mineral spirits for removing paste wax from
> metal to have a clean surface to protect again?
>

Others have responded with the standard procedures for tackling the rust
issue, so I won't repeat their words. The best thing for removing was is
autobody wax and grease remover. At about $50 per gallon, it's probably not
going to be your first choice of approaches, but the stuff does work. In
all likelyhood, by the time you get the rust off you'll have all of the wax
off as well. Even if you didn't, it would not matter. Simply apply new wax
and move on to the next project.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

sD

[email protected] (Doug Miller)

in reply to "William Andersen" on 15/08/2007 9:35 AM

15/08/2007 2:13 PM

In article <[email protected]>, RayV <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Aug 15, 9:35 am, "William Andersen" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Any ideas on removing rust from the bed of a jointer?
>> I use paste wax on my tools, but didn't use the jointer for several years.
>> The rust is too thick to wipe off: I'm pretty sure I'll have to sand it.
>> Is there a liquid rust remover to use first?
>> Is there anything better than mineral spirits for removing paste wax from
>> metal to have a clean surface to protect again?
>
>WD-40 and scotch-brite pads work well. Just let the WD-40 sit for a
>while then scrub away. I have heard of others putting the scotch-
>brite under a sander but never tried it.

Yes, WD-40 will work -- but PB-Blaster will work a lot better. You can find it
at most auto parts stores.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

EP

"Edwin Pawlowski"

in reply to "William Andersen" on 15/08/2007 9:35 AM

15/08/2007 7:10 PM


"William Andersen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Any ideas on removing rust from the bed of a jointer?
> I use paste wax on my tools, but didn't use the jointer for several years.
> The rust is too thick to wipe off: I'm pretty sure I'll have to sand it.
> Is there a liquid rust remover to use first?
> Is there anything better than mineral spirits for removing paste wax from
> metal to have a clean surface to protect again?
>

Top Saver. Amazing stuff in a pump spray bottle. Spray it on, use a
(provided in the kit) abrasive pad to scrub and wipe it off.

sn

samson

in reply to "William Andersen" on 15/08/2007 9:35 AM

15/08/2007 11:13 AM

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> "William Andersen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Any ideas on removing rust from the bed of a jointer?
> > I use paste wax on my tools, but didn't use the jointer for several years.
> > The rust is too thick to wipe off: I'm pretty sure I'll have to sand it.
> > Is there a liquid rust remover to use first?
> > Is there anything better than mineral spirits for removing paste wax from
> > metal to have a clean surface to protect again?
> >
>
> Others have responded with the standard procedures for tackling the rust
> issue, so I won't repeat their words. The best thing for removing was is
> autobody wax and grease remover. At about $50 per gallon, it's probably not
> going to be your first choice of approaches, but the stuff does work. In
> all likelyhood, by the time you get the rust off you'll have all of the wax
> off as well. Even if you didn't, it would not matter. Simply apply new wax
> and move on to the next project.

I've luck with Boeshield Rust Free and scotch brights.

S.

JC

"James \"Cubby\" Culbertson"

in reply to "William Andersen" on 15/08/2007 9:35 AM

15/08/2007 6:42 PM


"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, RayV
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> Yes, WD-40 will work -- but PB-Blaster will work a lot better. You can
> find it
> at most auto parts stores.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

And you have the added benefit of having some PB Blaster around the house
for the next time you try to pull the pitman arm
off your steering box.
Cheers,
cc

ps. it's flammable......DAMHIKT.

PB

Pat Barber

in reply to "William Andersen" on 15/08/2007 9:35 AM

15/08/2007 8:47 PM

Soak it overnight using WD-40,etc,etc.

Using a VERY good razor blade scraper,
scrape the rust up using fresh razor blades.

The blade should be at a fairly steep angle to
the table top and you should be "shaving" the
rust up.

After you have bladed up as much as possible,
start again with WD-40 and scotch bright pads
and jointer hold down pads.

This is both tiring and messy....

Use lots of WD-40 and paper towels.

After you get it back to clean....

Keep it clean....



William Andersen wrote:

> Any ideas on removing rust from the bed of a jointer?
> I use paste wax on my tools, but didn't use the jointer for several years.
> The rust is too thick to wipe off: I'm pretty sure I'll have to sand it.
> Is there a liquid rust remover to use first?
> Is there anything better than mineral spirits for removing paste wax from
> metal to have a clean surface to protect again?
>
>

dn

dpb

in reply to "William Andersen" on 15/08/2007 9:35 AM

15/08/2007 10:05 AM

Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, RayV <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Aug 15, 9:35 am, "William Andersen" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Any ideas on removing rust from the bed of a jointer?
>>> I use paste wax on my tools, but didn't use the jointer for several years.
>>> The rust is too thick to wipe off: I'm pretty sure I'll have to sand it.
>>> Is there a liquid rust remover to use first?
>>> Is there anything better than mineral spirits for removing paste wax from
>>> metal to have a clean surface to protect again?
>> WD-40 and scotch-brite pads work well. Just let the WD-40 sit for a
>> while then scrub away. I have heard of others putting the scotch-
>> brite under a sander but never tried it.
>
> Yes, WD-40 will work -- but PB-Blaster will work a lot better. You can find it
> at most auto parts stores.

Almost any wetting fluid will work almost as well--even water (:). All
really need is some lubrication...I usually just use kerosene and
wet/dry paper of 320 or finer grit.

--

md

mac davis

in reply to "William Andersen" on 15/08/2007 9:35 AM

15/08/2007 6:19 PM

On Wed, 15 Aug 2007 19:10:35 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"William Andersen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Any ideas on removing rust from the bed of a jointer?
>> I use paste wax on my tools, but didn't use the jointer for several years.
>> The rust is too thick to wipe off: I'm pretty sure I'll have to sand it.
>> Is there a liquid rust remover to use first?
>> Is there anything better than mineral spirits for removing paste wax from
>> metal to have a clean surface to protect again?
>>
>
>Top Saver. Amazing stuff in a pump spray bottle. Spray it on, use a
>(provided in the kit) abrasive pad to scrub and wipe it off.
>
Yes, for sure...

I asked the group how to remove the rust and treat my table saw top..

Topsaver was pretty much the unanimous choice and I'm really glad that I tried
it... I'm a convinced user now..

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5262


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

WA

"William Andersen"

in reply to "William Andersen" on 15/08/2007 9:35 AM

15/08/2007 10:58 PM

Thanks to each of you for the ideas.

Bill
"Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Soak it overnight using WD-40,etc,etc.
>
> Using a VERY good razor blade scraper,
> scrape the rust up using fresh razor blades.
>
> The blade should be at a fairly steep angle to
> the table top and you should be "shaving" the
> rust up.
>
> After you have bladed up as much as possible,
> start again with WD-40 and scotch bright pads
> and jointer hold down pads.
>
> This is both tiring and messy....
>
> Use lots of WD-40 and paper towels.
>
> After you get it back to clean....
>
> Keep it clean....
>
>
>
> William Andersen wrote:
>
>> Any ideas on removing rust from the bed of a jointer?
>> I use paste wax on my tools, but didn't use the jointer for several
>> years. The rust is too thick to wipe off: I'm pretty sure I'll have to
>> sand it.
>> Is there a liquid rust remover to use first?
>> Is there anything better than mineral spirits for removing paste wax from
>> metal to have a clean surface to protect again?


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