Hi all:
I finally fired up my PM66 after rebuilding it. I made every attempt
to put the arbor back in it's previous position when I pressed it back
together. With the insert in place, and the blade at 0 degrees, the
blade appears to be centered in the insert slot. However, the blade
rubs the insert (on the right side when viewing from the infeed end)
when the bevel angle is above 35 degrees or so. I have run out of room
in the table mounting holes to shift the table any more. From what I
can see, here are my options:
1: Make a new, custom insert (I'll need a zero-clearance one anyway).
2: Enlarge table mounting holes and try to split the difference between
the 0-degree alignment and 45-degree alignment.
3: Shim the table top upward so that the blade doesn't touch the
insert.
4: Disassemble and press the arbor shaft a little farther into its
casting (my least desirable choice).
I should qualify this by saying that the saw was purchased used at
auction, is a 1969 vintage, and I cannot tell with any certainty that
it was properly aligned when I obtained it or that the supplied
aluminum insert is original or even correct for the saw.
Thanks in advance,
John.
the_tool_man wrote:
> Hi all:
>
> I finally fired up my PM66 after rebuilding it. I made every attempt
> to put the arbor back in it's previous position when I pressed it back
> together. With the insert in place, and the blade at 0 degrees, the
> blade appears to be centered in the insert slot. However, the blade
> rubs the insert (on the right side when viewing from the infeed end)
> when the bevel angle is above 35 degrees or so. I have run out of room
> in the table mounting holes to shift the table any more. From what I
> can see, here are my options:
>
> 1: Make a new, custom insert (I'll need a zero-clearance one anyway).
> 2: Enlarge table mounting holes and try to split the difference between
> the 0-degree alignment and 45-degree alignment.
> 3: Shim the table top upward so that the blade doesn't touch the
> insert.
> 4: Disassemble and press the arbor shaft a little farther into its
> casting (my least desirable choice).
>
> I should qualify this by saying that the saw was purchased used at
> auction, is a 1969 vintage, and I cannot tell with any certainty that
> it was properly aligned when I obtained it or that the supplied
> aluminum insert is original or even correct for the saw.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> John.
I believe Rockler sells insert for that saw, made of something other than
metal. That might be a choice for you. I would not mess with the table top
when a simple solution could be the fix.
--
"you can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
"the_tool_man" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi all:
>
> I finally fired up my PM66 after rebuilding it. I made every attempt
> to put the arbor back in it's previous position when I pressed it back
> together. With the insert in place, and the blade at 0 degrees, the
> blade appears to be centered in the insert slot. However, the blade
> rubs the insert (on the right side when viewing from the infeed end)
> when the bevel angle is above 35 degrees or so. I have run out of room
> in the table mounting holes to shift the table any more. From what I
> can see, here are my options:
>
> 1: Make a new, custom insert (I'll need a zero-clearance one anyway).
If your blade is not staying parallel to the miter slot when you tilt the
blade, also indicated by the blade side moving closer to the front or back
side of the insert, you have an alignment problem going on. If the blade
looks correct at 90 degrees, It should also fit properly at 45 degrees.
Do you remember any shims that may have been left out? IIRC the shims go
under the trunion where it bolts to the cabinet. If any of the corners
where the trunioin bolts to he cabinet are slightly lot of alignment it can
cause the blade to shift as it is being tilted.
> 2: Enlarge table mounting holes and try to split the difference between
> the 0-degree alignment and 45-degree alignment.
If your insert paint is worn, look at the back behind the blade. Typically
wood does not slide directly behind the blade. The less worn spot should
indicate if your blade is where it was before the teardown.
> 3: Shim the table top upward so that the blade doesn't touch the
> insert.
That may be part of the solution but you should insure that the blade is not
angling in or out at the back or front when you tilt the blade. It should
remain parallel to the miter slot as you tilt it.
> 4: Disassemble and press the arbor shaft a little farther into its
> casting (my least desirable choice).
I would check blade to miter slot parallel alignment first at 90 AND 45
degrees first.
>
> I should qualify this by saying that the saw was purchased used at
> auction, is a 1969 vintage, and I cannot tell with any certainty that
> it was properly aligned when I obtained it or that the supplied
> aluminum insert is original or even correct for the saw.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> John.
>
Leon wrote:
> "the_tool_man" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Hi all:
>>
>>I finally fired up my PM66 after rebuilding it. I made every attempt
>>to put the arbor back in it's previous position when I pressed it back
>>together. With the insert in place, and the blade at 0 degrees, the
>>blade appears to be centered in the insert slot. However, the blade
>>rubs the insert (on the right side when viewing from the infeed end)
>>when the bevel angle is above 35 degrees or so. I have run out of room
>>in the table mounting holes to shift the table any more. From what I
>>can see, here are my options:
>>
>>1: Make a new, custom insert (I'll need a zero-clearance one anyway).
>
>
> If your blade is not staying parallel to the miter slot when you tilt the
> blade, also indicated by the blade side moving closer to the front or back
> side of the insert, you have an alignment problem going on. If the blade
> looks correct at 90 degrees, It should also fit properly at 45 degrees.
> Do you remember any shims that may have been left out? IIRC the shims go
> under the trunion where it bolts to the cabinet. If any of the corners
> where the trunioin bolts to he cabinet are slightly lot of alignment it can
> cause the blade to shift as it is being tilted.
Not knowing anything about the PM66, I can only offer conjecture, but I
would agree that the solution doesn't lie in the insert, but in the
alignment.
You (op) could also be either too high or too low wrt the proper center
of rotation of the trunnion assembly, as well as to the left or right.
er
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