Exterior shutters, Anderson Bay Window?

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 07:49:42 -0700, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Roger wrote:
>> On 8/25/2012 9:57 PM, Winston wrote:
>>> Who, Where:
>>> Hi all, I'm an electronics tech working in Silicon Gulch CA U.S.
>>>
>>> What:
>>> I have an Anderson Bay window in the MBR that is a real solar
>>> collector for the afternoon sun.
>
>(...)
>
>>> May I have your thoughts on this please?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> --Winston
>>>
>> Have you considered installing plantation shutters? Would be up year
>> around but open and close very easily to adjust light and air flow. Have
>> used budget blinds plantation shutters in 2 houses and have been pleased
>> with functionality and price.
>
>I'm looking for an external fix.
>If the solar energy gets through the window, it'll
>just heat the room up.

Not so much, if you can reflect it back out. That's one of the purposes of
the white drapery liners and some window films. Be careful of window films,
though. They may void the warranty on insulated glass panes.

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 17:05:09 -0400, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 13:48:03 -0400, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:46:41 -0400, "[email protected]"
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 07:49:42 -0700, "[email protected]"
>>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Roger wrote:
>>>>> On 8/25/2012 9:57 PM, Winston wrote:
>>>>>> Who, Where:
>>>>>> Hi all, I'm an electronics tech working in Silicon Gulch CA U.S.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> What:
>>>>>> I have an Anderson Bay window in the MBR that is a real solar
>>>>>> collector for the afternoon sun.
>>>>
>>>>(...)
>>>>
>>>>>> May I have your thoughts on this please?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --Winston
>>>>>>
>>>>> Have you considered installing plantation shutters? Would be up year
>>>>> around but open and close very easily to adjust light and air flow. Have
>>>>> used budget blinds plantation shutters in 2 houses and have been pleased
>>>>> with functionality and price.
>>>>
>>>>I'm looking for an external fix.
>>>>If the solar energy gets through the window, it'll
>>>>just heat the room up.
>>>
>>>Not so much, if you can reflect it back out. That's one of the purposes of
>>>the white drapery liners and some window films. Be careful of window films,
>>>though. They may void the warranty on insulated glass panes.
>> At the insurance office where I spend every morning there is an
>>almost totally glass wall that causes a horific thermal gain. Solar
>>fil was installed and within 2 weeks at leat 4 large panels had
>>failed. When the units were replaced, and again coated with the film,
>>one more broke. It was replaced and everything has now been stable for
>>over a year.
>
>Why didn't they just get panes with the film factory installed? It can be put
>on the inside surfaces so it isn't exposed to damage from either side[*].
>
>[*] Well, that's the plan, anyway.
That would have required replacing ALL of the glass on the front of
the building. That's well over 1000 sq feet of glass.

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 09:12:58 -0700, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 07:51:35 -0700, "[email protected]"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>(...)
>
>>> I'm a little concerned that the window would suffer from
>>> 'reverse-one-way' effect at night, though.
>>
>> That's why low-E windows have coatings on the inside of both
>> sandwiched panes, inhibiting heat gain and loss from either side.
>
>Wayell, what I meant was that at night, the light in the room
>would make the glass appear very reflective. Sorta like what
>conference - room windows do in a commercial building when you
>are in the middle of an 11th hour meeting. Not too good.

Oh, you meant mirrorwise, not heat-suckingwise. Got it.
Yeah, they do that a bit, but not near as much as a mirror. Just
slightly more than plain glass. It's hard to notice.

--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 09:09:39 -0700, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:10:24 -0700, "[email protected]"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>(...)
>
>>> I like it. $153 gets me shades for all three panes.
>>> Thanks!
>>
>> I thought one would be sufficient, allowing you to see uninhibited
>> views out the sides at the same time.<shrug>
>
>One in the center would *help* no doubt.
>It's only 33% of the area, though.
>
>Three's about a minimum to justify the time, IMHO.

Oy vay! Denseness doesn't help, sir. <tap, tap, anyone home?>

OK, you have a 4' wide center window and two 2' wide wrap-arounds (@
45 degrees) which bring the OAL to maybe 7', right? If you install a
7' or 8' long shade, it will shade all 3 windows from the sun--if the
sun is at 90 degrees to the west-facing window. (Simply offset it to
one side if it doesn't.) And if you get one which is 6' tall, it will
shade more of the wall, too, adding to your comfort.


>I am not at all concerned with the view of my plastic
>outside shed. :)

Erm, that's nice.

P.S: What did you finally do with the redo of your flag driveway last
year? IIRC, you were having loads of trouble finding laborers or
contractors willing to do it for you.

--
"Bother", said Pooh, as he chambered another round...

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:32:47 -0700, Larry Jaques
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 07:51:35 -0700, "[email protected]"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>HeyBub wrote:
>>
>>(...)
>>
>>> If cosmetics is of no particular concern - you just want to limit radiation,
>>> consider:
>>> * Window film,
>>> * Shades, or
>>> * Drapes.
>>>
>>> Or all three.
>>>
>>> We have a west-facing patio door. One afternoon, I measured the temperature
>>> of a black toolkit receiving full sunlight through the glass doors. One
>>> hundred and ten degrees.
>>>
>>> Two days later, I installed radiation-blocking window film. At the same time
>>> of day, the toolkit was at ambient room temperature.
>>
>>I'll have to look into that. Thanks!
>>
>>I'm a little concerned that the window would suffer from
>>'reverse-one-way' effect at night, though.
>
>That's why low-E windows have coatings on the inside of both
>sandwiched panes, inhibiting heat gain and loss from either side.
That is called "low E squared" in the business - and is almost
standard equipment up here in the "great white north" along with Argon
fill.

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:10:24 -0700, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On 26 Aug 2012 02:57:28 GMT, Winston<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>(...)
>
>>> When:
>>> It would be nifty if I had a solution ready for next spring.
>>
>> Why not right now, when the sun's at its hottest?
>
>Earlier would be better, yes.
>
>(...)
>
>>> May I have your thoughts on this please?
>>
>> Soitenly, Winnie. First thought is "Why in tarnation didn't he go
>> with a low-e window in the first place?"<gd&r>
>
>Ah 20-20 hindsight. :)

I researched all the items available (online) before purchasing new
doublt-pane windows for my house, choosing low-E for their sunstopping
strength.


>> 2nd though: use an outdoor window shade. Cheap, quick, dependable.
>
>Well, heck. I didn't even know these existed.
>http://www.blinds.com/control/product/productID,89493#
>
>That may be just the thing. Thanks!
>
>> 4' of shutters is going to be heavy and require lots of mounting
>> strength, so that wouldn't be my first choice. How about an inside
>> shade? Put velcro fuzz along the top and a couple pads on the bottom.
>> White/beige/brown/black adhesive velcro is available from many places,
>> eBay being the cheapest and easiest I've found.
>
>Gotta be on the outside.
>It's 'game over' if the solar energy gets through the glass.
>
>(...)
>
>> I'd go with the external shade, myself. Cheap, easy, and it keeps the
>> entire window frame from heating, too.
>
>I like it. $153 gets me shades for all three panes.
>Thanks!

I thought one would be sufficient, allowing you to see uninhibited
views out the sides at the same time. <shrug>


>> Personal one just for you, Win. http://tinyurl.com/8s58e55 Enjoy!
>
>A triumph of functionality *and* style.

I *knew* you'd like it, and figured it'd fit right in there in San
Josey, Wales.

--
"Bother", said Pooh, as he chambered another round...

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 13:45:23 -0400, [email protected] wrote:

>On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:32:47 -0700, Larry Jaques
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 07:51:35 -0700, "[email protected]"
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>HeyBub wrote:
>>>
>>>(...)
>>>
>>>> If cosmetics is of no particular concern - you just want to limit radiation,
>>>> consider:
>>>> * Window film,
>>>> * Shades, or
>>>> * Drapes.
>>>>
>>>> Or all three.
>>>>
>>>> We have a west-facing patio door. One afternoon, I measured the temperature
>>>> of a black toolkit receiving full sunlight through the glass doors. One
>>>> hundred and ten degrees.
>>>>
>>>> Two days later, I installed radiation-blocking window film. At the same time
>>>> of day, the toolkit was at ambient room temperature.
>>>
>>>I'll have to look into that. Thanks!
>>>
>>>I'm a little concerned that the window would suffer from
>>>'reverse-one-way' effect at night, though.
>>
>>That's why low-E windows have coatings on the inside of both
>>sandwiched panes, inhibiting heat gain and loss from either side.
> That is called "low E squared" in the business - and is almost
>standard equipment up here in the "great white north" along with Argon
>fill.

Aren't triple-pane windows standard up yonder, too? Or have you moved
to quad now?

LJ, who likes his nice, warm southern Oregon.

--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman

>
> Thinking out loud here, I wonder if I can just buy some
> window screen frame kits and install any screening
> fabric I want?
>
> --Winston

Simple frame with full lap joints at the corners. You have a
bandsaw. Staple or tack the fabric on and apply a small trim molding
to hide the staple line. Prior to fabric application, paint the
frames and trim to match your home decor/color.

Sonny

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 05:32:08 -0500, Roger <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 8/25/2012 9:57 PM, Winston wrote:
>> Who, Where:
>> Hi all, I'm an electronics tech working in Silicon Gulch CA U.S.
>>
>> What:
>> I have an Anderson Bay window in the MBR that is a real solar
>> collector for the afternoon sun.
>> The window measures:
>> 46-3/8" H x 22-7/8" W (Center pane)
>> 46-1/4" H x 23" W (Two side panes)
>> I want to (Magnetically? Velcro? Screws into inserts?) attach some
>> shutters on the windows during the summer months.
>>
>> Why:
>> The idea is to reroute some of that solar power before
>> it enters the room, in attempt to limit heat rise.
>>
>> When:
>> It would be nifty if I had a solution ready for next spring.
>>
>> How Much:
>> I want to spend about $150 for materials, including
>> primer and white semigloss paint.
>>
>> Critical Information:
>> My woodworking skill level is: Dangerous Amateur
>> I have lots of metalworking tools but only
>> a couple belt sanders, a power miter box and a
>> 12" band saw for woodworking tools.
>>
>> The local Borgs appear to have 'too-narrow' and
>> 'too short' shutters.
>> The shutter specialty stores I checked on the web can
>> create the parts I need in the proper height as long
>> as I order them either too narrow or too wide.
>>
>> Ideally, I would just plug in the dimensions with my style
>> and color selection using some website XML, then stand
>> adjacent to the mailbox.
>>
>> May I have your thoughts on this please?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> --Winston
>>
>Have you considered installing plantation shutters? Would be up year
>around but open and close very easily to adjust light and air flow.
>Have used budget blinds plantation shutters in 2 houses and have been
>pleased with functionality and price.

I was thinking the same thing but his $150 budget throws that idea out. You
can't get much, even at blinds.com, for that price.

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:12:34 -0700, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Sonny wrote:
>> In addition to Larry's suggestions, for DIY drape type applications,
>> Sunbrella has a variety of fabrics and Joanns presently has some
>> clearance sales on some of their outdoor fabrics. I recently
>> reupholstered a swing canopy and seat cushions with Joann's on-sale
>> fabric, $6 a yard.
>
>Thinking out loud here, I wonder if I can just buy some
>window screen frame kits and install any screening
>fabric I want?

That won't cool the frame, though. One of the reasons I suggested the
long and large rollup is that it'll keep the window and wall behind it
cool, too.

I'll be using this on a screen porch I'm building for a client next
week. I got 80% of the framing done Friday and will finish it up on
Weds when the screening finally gets here. It was supposed to be in
stock at Homey's Despot but wasn't. ($79 v. $159 at Screeneze)
http://screeneze.com/

--
"Bother", said Pooh, as he chambered another round...

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 13:55:59 -0700, Larry Jaques
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 13:45:23 -0400, [email protected] wrote:
>
>>On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:32:47 -0700, Larry Jaques
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 07:51:35 -0700, "[email protected]"
>>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>HeyBub wrote:
>>>>
>>>>(...)
>>>>
>>>>> If cosmetics is of no particular concern - you just want to limit radiation,
>>>>> consider:
>>>>> * Window film,
>>>>> * Shades, or
>>>>> * Drapes.
>>>>>
>>>>> Or all three.
>>>>>
>>>>> We have a west-facing patio door. One afternoon, I measured the temperature
>>>>> of a black toolkit receiving full sunlight through the glass doors. One
>>>>> hundred and ten degrees.
>>>>>
>>>>> Two days later, I installed radiation-blocking window film. At the same time
>>>>> of day, the toolkit was at ambient room temperature.
>>>>
>>>>I'll have to look into that. Thanks!
>>>>
>>>>I'm a little concerned that the window would suffer from
>>>>'reverse-one-way' effect at night, though.
>>>
>>>That's why low-E windows have coatings on the inside of both
>>>sandwiched panes, inhibiting heat gain and loss from either side.
>> That is called "low E squared" in the business - and is almost
>>standard equipment up here in the "great white north" along with Argon
>>fill.
>
>Aren't triple-pane windows standard up yonder, too? Or have you moved
>to quad now?
>
>LJ, who likes his nice, warm southern Oregon.
Triple pane are becoming more common but there is a point of
diminishing returns.

In addition to Larry's suggestions, for DIY drape type applications,
Sunbrella has a variety of fabrics and Joanns presently has some
clearance sales on some of their outdoor fabrics. I recently
reupholstered a swing canopy and seat cushions with Joann's on-sale
fabric, $6 a yard.

Sonny

On 26 Aug 2012 02:57:28 GMT, Winston <[email protected]> wrote:

>Who, Where:
>Hi all, I'm an electronics tech working in Silicon Gulch CA U.S.
>
>What:
>I have an Anderson Bay window in the MBR that is a real solar
>collector for the afternoon sun.
>The window measures:
>46-3/8" H x 22-7/8" W (Center pane)
>46-1/4" H x 23" W (Two side panes)
>I want to (Magnetically? Velcro? Screws into inserts?) attach some
>shutters on the windows during the summer months.
>
>Why:
>The idea is to reroute some of that solar power before
>it enters the room, in attempt to limit heat rise.
>
>When:
>It would be nifty if I had a solution ready for next spring.

Why not right now, when the sun's at its hottest?


>How Much:
>I want to spend about $150 for materials, including
>primer and white semigloss paint.
>
>Critical Information:
>My woodworking skill level is: Dangerous Amateur
>I have lots of metalworking tools but only
>a couple belt sanders, a power miter box and a
>12" band saw for woodworking tools.
>
>The local Borgs appear to have 'too-narrow' and
>'too short' shutters.
>The shutter specialty stores I checked on the web can
>create the parts I need in the proper height as long
>as I order them either too narrow or too wide.
>
>Ideally, I would just plug in the dimensions with my style
>and color selection using some website XML, then stand
>adjacent to the mailbox.
>
>May I have your thoughts on this please?

Soitenly, Winnie. First thought is "Why in tarnation didn't he go
with a low-e window in the first place?" <gd&r>

2nd though: use an outdoor window shade. Cheap, quick, dependable. If
you have a removable screen on one side of the bay, you could actuate
it from inside the house or rig an automated motor for it with a
switch on the inside.

4' of shutters is going to be heavy and require lots of mounting
strength, so that wouldn't be my first choice. How about an inside
shade? Put velcro fuzz along the top and a couple pads on the bottom.
White/beige/brown/black adhesive velcro is available from many places,
eBay being the cheapest and easiest I've found.

Have your wife stitch up a piece of whatever fabric she likes for the
inside, attached to a piece of insulating foam. I already have rolls
of 1/8" beige foam which I use for my glare guards, so I'd pick that.
You can go with something like that (sometimes available at JoAnn's or
other fabric store, or at local auto upholstery shops) or with the
1/4" thick black mylar insulating film roll available at Borgs
everywhere. Stitch the hook velcro to the insulated side and hang it
daily. It will fold or roll up and store in a closet when not in use.
http://tinyurl.com/9cd9de3 or http://tinyurl.com/8r7mvkm

I'd go with the external shade, myself. Cheap, easy, and it keeps the
entire window frame from heating, too. A single, long shade would
shield the entire 7-ish feet of window.
traditional rectangle http://tinyurl.com/8toteje
trendy triangle http://tinyurl.com/9zl3hpc
sedate square http://tinyurl.com/9ee9zlk
screen fabric, build your own frame http://tinyurl.com/8bzwync

Personal one just for you, Win. http://tinyurl.com/8s58e55 Enjoy!

--
"Bother", said Pooh, as he chambered another round...

Winston wrote:
> Who, Where:
> Hi all, I'm an electronics tech working in Silicon Gulch CA U.S.
>
> What:
> I have an Anderson Bay window in the MBR that is a real solar
> collector for the afternoon sun.
> The window measures:
> 46-3/8" H x 22-7/8" W (Center pane)
> 46-1/4" H x 23" W (Two side panes)
> I want to (Magnetically? Velcro? Screws into inserts?) attach some
> shutters on the windows during the summer months.
>
> Why:
> The idea is to reroute some of that solar power before
> it enters the room, in attempt to limit heat rise.
>
> When:
> It would be nifty if I had a solution ready for next spring.
>
> How Much:
> I want to spend about $150 for materials, including
> primer and white semigloss paint.
>
> Critical Information:
> My woodworking skill level is: Dangerous Amateur
> I have lots of metalworking tools but only
> a couple belt sanders, a power miter box and a
> 12" band saw for woodworking tools.
>
> The local Borgs appear to have 'too-narrow' and
> 'too short' shutters.
> The shutter specialty stores I checked on the web can
> create the parts I need in the proper height as long
> as I order them either too narrow or too wide.
>
> Ideally, I would just plug in the dimensions with my style
> and color selection using some website XML, then stand
> adjacent to the mailbox.
>
> May I have your thoughts on this please?
>

If cosmetics is of no particular concern - you just want to limit radiation,
consider:
* Window film,
* Shades, or
* Drapes.

Or all three.

We have a west-facing patio door. One afternoon, I measured the temperature
of a black toolkit receiving full sunlight through the glass doors. One
hundred and ten degrees.

Two days later, I installed radiation-blocking window film. At the same time
of day, the toolkit was at ambient room temperature.

On Tue, 28 Aug 2012 14:57:23 -0700, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Dropbox photos of hydraulic cart helping demo
>the third layer of masonry found in my back
>yard after I broke up the upper two layers
>for disposal:
>
>http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/CreteHarvest.txt

Tres cool. What cad/camming did you do? The crane mount plates, or
more?


>http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/CreteHarvestSlab.jpg
>http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/CreteHarvestFooting.jpg

Seems to work like a charm.

--
Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing.
This is the ultimate. -- Chuang-tzu

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 19:14:25 -0700, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 09:09:39 -0700, "[email protected]"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>> On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:10:24 -0700, "[email protected]"
>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>> (...)
>>>
>>>>> I like it. $153 gets me shades for all three panes.
>>>>> Thanks!
>>>>
>>>> I thought one would be sufficient, allowing you to see uninhibited
>>>> views out the sides at the same time.<shrug>
>>>
>>> One in the center would *help* no doubt.
>>> It's only 33% of the area, though.
>>>
>>> Three's about a minimum to justify the time, IMHO.
>>
>> Oy vay! Denseness doesn't help, sir.<tap, tap, anyone home?>
>
>Ah but area is a big deal when discussing solar energy, yes?
>
>> OK, you have a 4' wide center window and two 2' wide wrap-arounds (@
>> 45 degrees) which bring the OAL to maybe 7', right?
>
>Whoa, big fella.
>Three windows, each equal sizes (22" W x 46" H).

Oops, I guess I misread it. That's the normal size I see, though.
2/4/2, 2/6/2, 2/8/2, just enough for a seat.


>> If you install a
>> 7' or 8' long shade, it will shade all 3 windows from the sun--if the
>> sun is at 90 degrees to the west-facing window. (Simply offset it to
>> one side if it doesn't.) And if you get one which is 6' tall, it will
>> shade more of the wall, too, adding to your comfort.
>
>Gotcha. I agree that is an efficient approach.
>'Tis a microscopic back yard though.
>A shade big enough to work properly would be really out
>of scale for the (remaining) space.

As you said, who cares what the shed (or back yard) looks like?


>SWMBO says that she will sign off on the aesthetics
>of exterior shades, but she agrees we don't have
>sufficient room for an awning.

Bueno.


>>> I am not at all concerned with the view of my plastic
>>> outside shed. :)
>>
>> Erm, that's nice.
>>
>> P.S: What did you finally do with the redo of your flag driveway last
>> year? IIRC, you were having loads of trouble finding laborers or
>> contractors willing to do it for you.
>
>It was an entry porch landing. Very much smaller
>than a driveway.
>I took a picture of the layout and removed each of the pavers.
>Placed them 'in position' on a series of custom modified
>pallets and stacked the pallets using my micro forklift.
>(My hydraulic cart in drag.)
>
>Unloaded a couple bags of base sand and packed it into the
>sunken area until it wouldn't pack any more.
>Used a couple pieces of conduit and a custom made gauge
>to level the sand at the proper height WRT the edge
>pavers. Removed conduit.
>Smacked the leveled sand down with a square
>packing tool and rechecked level. Placed each pallet
>of pavers back in position and used a BFRM* to microscopically
>adjust edge height. Applied polymeric paver set
>sand to lock them all together. It looks and works
>a whole lot better now. Discovered what work must be like
>in the process. Whoa.

Yeah, which is why I want back OUT of the handyman business. It's
killin' me.


>*BF Rubber Mallet

Grok that. Be cautious with one on flagstone. They break very easily.
DAMHIKT.

--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:46:41 -0400, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 07:49:42 -0700, "[email protected]"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Roger wrote:
>>> On 8/25/2012 9:57 PM, Winston wrote:
>>>> Who, Where:
>>>> Hi all, I'm an electronics tech working in Silicon Gulch CA U.S.
>>>>
>>>> What:
>>>> I have an Anderson Bay window in the MBR that is a real solar
>>>> collector for the afternoon sun.
>>
>>(...)
>>
>>>> May I have your thoughts on this please?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks!
>>>>
>>>> --Winston
>>>>
>>> Have you considered installing plantation shutters? Would be up year
>>> around but open and close very easily to adjust light and air flow. Have
>>> used budget blinds plantation shutters in 2 houses and have been pleased
>>> with functionality and price.
>>
>>I'm looking for an external fix.
>>If the solar energy gets through the window, it'll
>>just heat the room up.
>
>Not so much, if you can reflect it back out. That's one of the purposes of
>the white drapery liners and some window films. Be careful of window films,
>though. They may void the warranty on insulated glass panes.
At the insurance office where I spend every morning there is an
almost totally glass wall that causes a horific thermal gain. Solar
fil was installed and within 2 weeks at leat 4 large panels had
failed. When the units were replaced, and again coated with the film,
one more broke. It was replaced and everything has now been stable for
over a year.

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 19:15:44 -0700, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:12:34 -0700, "[email protected]"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>(...)
>
>>> Thinking out loud here, I wonder if I can just buy some
>>> window screen frame kits and install any screening
>>> fabric I want?
>>
>> That won't cool the frame, though. One of the reasons I suggested the
>> long and large rollup is that it'll keep the window and wall behind it
>> cool, too.
>
>Ah copy that Houston.

'Taint rocket surgery, mon.


>> I'll be using this on a screen porch I'm building for a client next
>> week. I got 80% of the framing done Friday and will finish it up on
>> Weds when the screening finally gets here. It was supposed to be in
>> stock at Homey's Despot but wasn't. ($79 v. $159 at Screeneze)
>> http://screeneze.com/
>
>Pretty cool!

I'm hoping so. One of my thoughts is to get some and put it up around
my back porch. In the summer, it gets screen fabric. In the winter,
visqueen. That would facilitate more civilized barbeques in the
winter. It's $2.07 l/f.

--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:38:43 -0400, [email protected] wrote:

>On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 17:05:09 -0400, "[email protected]"
>>Why didn't they just get panes with the film factory installed? It can be put
>>on the inside surfaces so it isn't exposed to damage from either side[*].
>>
>>[*] Well, that's the plan, anyway.
> That would have required replacing ALL of the glass on the front of
>the building. That's well over 1000 sq feet of glass.

What was the outcome of the breakage? Did the film installers cover
costs, or the film mfgr, or the glass mfgr/installers, or your ins co?
The way it was described, my guilty finger is pointing to the film
causing the glass to overheat and break, unless the film installers
scored the glass when they cut off the excess. I'm curious.

--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman

On 8/25/2012 9:57 PM, Winston wrote:
> Who, Where:
> Hi all, I'm an electronics tech working in Silicon Gulch CA U.S.
>
> What:
> I have an Anderson Bay window in the MBR that is a real solar
> collector for the afternoon sun.
> The window measures:
> 46-3/8" H x 22-7/8" W (Center pane)
> 46-1/4" H x 23" W (Two side panes)
> I want to (Magnetically? Velcro? Screws into inserts?) attach some
> shutters on the windows during the summer months.
>
> Why:
> The idea is to reroute some of that solar power before
> it enters the room, in attempt to limit heat rise.
>
> When:
> It would be nifty if I had a solution ready for next spring.
>
> How Much:
> I want to spend about $150 for materials, including
> primer and white semigloss paint.
>
> Critical Information:
> My woodworking skill level is: Dangerous Amateur
> I have lots of metalworking tools but only
> a couple belt sanders, a power miter box and a
> 12" band saw for woodworking tools.
>
> The local Borgs appear to have 'too-narrow' and
> 'too short' shutters.
> The shutter specialty stores I checked on the web can
> create the parts I need in the proper height as long
> as I order them either too narrow or too wide.
>
> Ideally, I would just plug in the dimensions with my style
> and color selection using some website XML, then stand
> adjacent to the mailbox.
>
> May I have your thoughts on this please?
>
> Thanks!
>
> --Winston
>
Have you considered installing plantation shutters? Would be up year
around but open and close very easily to adjust light and air flow.
Have used budget blinds plantation shutters in 2 houses and have been
pleased with functionality and price.

Roger wrote:
> On 8/25/2012 9:57 PM, Winston wrote:
>> Who, Where:
>> Hi all, I'm an electronics tech working in Silicon Gulch CA U.S.
>>
>> What:
>> I have an Anderson Bay window in the MBR that is a real solar
>> collector for the afternoon sun.

(...)

>> May I have your thoughts on this please?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> --Winston
>>
> Have you considered installing plantation shutters? Would be up year
> around but open and close very easily to adjust light and air flow. Have
> used budget blinds plantation shutters in 2 houses and have been pleased
> with functionality and price.

I'm looking for an external fix.
If the solar energy gets through the window, it'll
just heat the room up.

Thanks for the site cite. :)

--Winston

HeyBub wrote:

(...)

> If cosmetics is of no particular concern - you just want to limit radiation,
> consider:
> * Window film,
> * Shades, or
> * Drapes.
>
> Or all three.
>
> We have a west-facing patio door. One afternoon, I measured the temperature
> of a black toolkit receiving full sunlight through the glass doors. One
> hundred and ten degrees.
>
> Two days later, I installed radiation-blocking window film. At the same time
> of day, the toolkit was at ambient room temperature.

I'll have to look into that. Thanks!

I'm a little concerned that the window would suffer from
'reverse-one-way' effect at night, though.

--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:
> On 26 Aug 2012 02:57:28 GMT, Winston<[email protected]> wrote:

(...)

>> When:
>> It would be nifty if I had a solution ready for next spring.
>
> Why not right now, when the sun's at its hottest?

Earlier would be better, yes.

(...)

>> May I have your thoughts on this please?
>
> Soitenly, Winnie. First thought is "Why in tarnation didn't he go
> with a low-e window in the first place?"<gd&r>

Ah 20-20 hindsight. :)

> 2nd though: use an outdoor window shade. Cheap, quick, dependable.

Well, heck. I didn't even know these existed.
http://www.blinds.com/control/product/productID,89493#

That may be just the thing. Thanks!

> 4' of shutters is going to be heavy and require lots of mounting
> strength, so that wouldn't be my first choice. How about an inside
> shade? Put velcro fuzz along the top and a couple pads on the bottom.
> White/beige/brown/black adhesive velcro is available from many places,
> eBay being the cheapest and easiest I've found.

Gotta be on the outside.
It's 'game over' if the solar energy gets through the glass.

(...)

> I'd go with the external shade, myself. Cheap, easy, and it keeps the
> entire window frame from heating, too.

I like it. $153 gets me shades for all three panes.
Thanks!

> Personal one just for you, Win. http://tinyurl.com/8s58e55 Enjoy!

A triumph of functionality *and* style.

Thanks!

--Winnie

Sonny wrote:
> In addition to Larry's suggestions, for DIY drape type applications,
> Sunbrella has a variety of fabrics and Joanns presently has some
> clearance sales on some of their outdoor fabrics. I recently
> reupholstered a swing canopy and seat cushions with Joann's on-sale
> fabric, $6 a yard.

Thinking out loud here, I wonder if I can just buy some
window screen frame kits and install any screening
fabric I want?

--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:10:24 -0700, "[email protected]"
> <[email protected]> wrote:

(...)

>> I like it. $153 gets me shades for all three panes.
>> Thanks!
>
> I thought one would be sufficient, allowing you to see uninhibited
> views out the sides at the same time.<shrug>

One in the center would *help* no doubt.
It's only 33% of the area, though.

Three's about a minimum to justify the time, IMHO.

I am not at all concerned with the view of my plastic
outside shed. :)

>>> Personal one just for you, Win. http://tinyurl.com/8s58e55 Enjoy!
>>
>> A triumph of functionality *and* style.
>
> I *knew* you'd like it, and figured it'd fit right in there in San
> Josey, Wales.

There is a certain liberation in being old and realizing that
*no one* cares what I'm wearing, as long as my torso is covered.

:)

--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 07:51:35 -0700, "[email protected]"
> <[email protected]> wrote:


(...)

>> I'm a little concerned that the window would suffer from
>> 'reverse-one-way' effect at night, though.
>
> That's why low-E windows have coatings on the inside of both
> sandwiched panes, inhibiting heat gain and loss from either side.

Wayell, what I meant was that at night, the light in the room
would make the glass appear very reflective. Sorta like what
conference - room windows do in a commercial building when you
are in the middle of an 11th hour meeting. Not too good.

--Winnie

Sonny wrote:
>>
>> Thinking out loud here, I wonder if I can just buy some
>> window screen frame kits and install any screening
>> fabric I want?
>>
>> --Winston
>
> Simple frame with full lap joints at the corners. You have a
> bandsaw. Staple or tack the fabric on and apply a small trim molding
> to hide the staple line. Prior to fabric application, paint the
> frames and trim to match your home decor/color.

OK!

Thanks.

--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 09:12:58 -0700, "[email protected]"
> <[email protected]> wrote:

(...)

>> Wayell, what I meant was that at night, the light in the room
>> would make the glass appear very reflective. Sorta like what
>> conference - room windows do in a commercial building when you
>> are in the middle of an 11th hour meeting. Not too good.
>
> Oh, you meant mirrorwise, not heat-suckingwise. Got it.
> Yeah, they do that a bit, but not near as much as a mirror. Just
> slightly more than plain glass. It's hard to notice.

That'll be what I learnt today.

--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 09:09:39 -0700, "[email protected]"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>> On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:10:24 -0700, "[email protected]"
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> (...)
>>
>>>> I like it. $153 gets me shades for all three panes.
>>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> I thought one would be sufficient, allowing you to see uninhibited
>>> views out the sides at the same time.<shrug>
>>
>> One in the center would *help* no doubt.
>> It's only 33% of the area, though.
>>
>> Three's about a minimum to justify the time, IMHO.
>
> Oy vay! Denseness doesn't help, sir.<tap, tap, anyone home?>

Ah but area is a big deal when discussing solar energy, yes?

> OK, you have a 4' wide center window and two 2' wide wrap-arounds (@
> 45 degrees) which bring the OAL to maybe 7', right?

Whoa, big fella.
Three windows, each equal sizes (22" W x 46" H).

> If you install a
> 7' or 8' long shade, it will shade all 3 windows from the sun--if the
> sun is at 90 degrees to the west-facing window. (Simply offset it to
> one side if it doesn't.) And if you get one which is 6' tall, it will
> shade more of the wall, too, adding to your comfort.

Gotcha. I agree that is an efficient approach.
'Tis a microscopic back yard though.
A shade big enough to work properly would be really out
of scale for the (remaining) space.


SWMBO says that she will sign off on the aesthetics
of exterior shades, but she agrees we don't have
sufficient room for an awning.

>> I am not at all concerned with the view of my plastic
>> outside shed. :)
>
> Erm, that's nice.
>
> P.S: What did you finally do with the redo of your flag driveway last
> year? IIRC, you were having loads of trouble finding laborers or
> contractors willing to do it for you.

It was an entry porch landing. Very much smaller
than a driveway.
I took a picture of the layout and removed each of the pavers.
Placed them 'in position' on a series of custom modified
pallets and stacked the pallets using my micro forklift.
(My hydraulic cart in drag.)

Unloaded a couple bags of base sand and packed it into the
sunken area until it wouldn't pack any more.
Used a couple pieces of conduit and a custom made gauge
to level the sand at the proper height WRT the edge
pavers. Removed conduit.
Smacked the leveled sand down with a square
packing tool and rechecked level. Placed each pallet
of pavers back in position and used a BFRM* to microscopically
adjust edge height. Applied polymeric paver set
sand to lock them all together. It looks and works
a whole lot better now. Discovered what work must be like
in the process. Whoa.

*BF Rubber Mallet


--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:12:34 -0700, "[email protected]"
> <[email protected]> wrote:


(...)

>> Thinking out loud here, I wonder if I can just buy some
>> window screen frame kits and install any screening
>> fabric I want?
>
> That won't cool the frame, though. One of the reasons I suggested the
> long and large rollup is that it'll keep the window and wall behind it
> cool, too.

Ah copy that Houston.

> I'll be using this on a screen porch I'm building for a client next
> week. I got 80% of the framing done Friday and will finish it up on
> Weds when the screening finally gets here. It was supposed to be in
> stock at Homey's Despot but wasn't. ($79 v. $159 at Screeneze)
> http://screeneze.com/

Pretty cool!

--Winston

Winston wrote the following on 8/25/2012 10:57 PM (ET):
> Who, Where:
> Hi all, I'm an electronics tech working in Silicon Gulch CA U.S.
>
> What:
> I have an Anderson Bay window in the MBR that is a real solar
> collector for the afternoon sun.
> The window measures:
> 46-3/8" H x 22-7/8" W (Center pane)
> 46-1/4" H x 23" W (Two side panes)
> I want to (Magnetically? Velcro? Screws into inserts?) attach some
> shutters on the windows during the summer months.
>
> Why:
> The idea is to reroute some of that solar power before
> it enters the room, in attempt to limit heat rise.
>
> When:
> It would be nifty if I had a solution ready for next spring.
>
> How Much:
> I want to spend about $150 for materials, including
> primer and white semigloss paint.
>
> Critical Information:
> My woodworking skill level is: Dangerous Amateur
> I have lots of metalworking tools but only
> a couple belt sanders, a power miter box and a
> 12" band saw for woodworking tools.
>
> The local Borgs appear to have 'too-narrow' and
> 'too short' shutters.
> The shutter specialty stores I checked on the web can
> create the parts I need in the proper height as long
> as I order them either too narrow or too wide.
>
> Ideally, I would just plug in the dimensions with my style
> and color selection using some website XML, then stand
> adjacent to the mailbox.
>
> May I have your thoughts on this please?
>
> Thanks!
>
> --Winston

http://www.oklahomacustomcanvasproducts.com/products/awnings/residential-awnings/window-awnings

--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 19:14:25 -0700, "[email protected]"
> <[email protected]> wrote:

(...)

>> Gotcha. I agree that is an efficient approach.
>> 'Tis a microscopic back yard though.
>> A shade big enough to work properly would be really out
>> of scale for the (remaining) space.
>
> As you said, who cares what the shed (or back yard) looks like?

Ain't an aesthetic issue.

We installed a horrendously expensive hardscape walkway in
front of this bay window. An awning that dropped down far
enough to block the rays of the afternoon sun would take up
too much of that insanely costly square footage.

(...)

> Yeah, which is why I want back OUT of the handyman business. It's
> killin' me.

I can relate.

After the first couple hours, I longed to be sitting in front
of my boring old computer drinking ice tea, indoors.

(BFRM)

> Grok that. Be cautious with one on flagstone. They break very easily.
> DAMHIKT.

OK. I never did anything with flagstone but it is purty,
installed properly.

I was snapping up some old 4" sidewalk in the back yard
for disposal.
My first tool of choice was my trusty 24" sledge with
full overhead swings.

The concrete just laughed at us. Grr.

The little Hitachi demo hammer was more successful.

Noisy and Fun!

--Winston

willshak wrote:

(...)

> http://www.oklahomacustomcanvasproducts.com/products/awnings/residential-awnings/window-awnings

'Wish I had room for an awning.
That'd be nifty.

--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Mon, 27 Aug 2012 21:01:28 -0700, "[email protected]"
> <[email protected]> wrote:

(...)

>> The little Hitachi demo hammer was more successful.
>>
>> Noisy and Fun!
>
> You betcha. Digging a hole for a hyd floor jack and raising the
> concrete, then using the hammah, can work/help, too.

I'm worried that we are starting to think alike. :)

I managed to total my floor jack doing just that.
I just *knew* it had a pressure limiter, so I just
kept pumping the handle.

It didn't have a limiter. Whoops. Bent the piston,
at about 3/4 elevation. I recycled it and bought a new one.

However! I did discover that I could lift the end
of a slab with my hydraulic cart and shove a chunk of
scrap concrete near the balance point of the slab.

A few good smacks with the sledge on the cantilevered
end and one piece became two. I was just goofing
around by then because I'd finished breaking up
the pad the day before. I figured it'd help the poor
foo^H^H^H hard working young men if the pieces
were smaller and easier to carry.

I *never* want to work as hard as those guys did.

(I just sent off a couple photos of the cart
to the metalworking drop box. I'll provide
links if and when the files show up within.)

--Winston

Dropbox photos of hydraulic cart helping demo
the third layer of masonry found in my back
yard after I broke up the upper two layers
for disposal:

http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/CreteHarvest.txt
http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/CreteHarvestSlab.jpg
http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/CreteHarvestFooting.jpg

--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Tue, 28 Aug 2012 14:49:25 -0700, "[email protected]"
> <[email protected]> wrote:

(...)

>> I'm worried that we are starting to think alike. :)
>
> Practically?

Heh! Had to happen eventually, I suppose.

(...)

>> It didn't have a limiter. Whoops. Bent the piston,
>> at about 3/4 elevation. I recycled it and bought a new one.
>
> Whuffo you do dat, son?

Well Dad, :)

That was the failure mechanism.
Because fluid was not vented around the lifting cylinder,
the force was enough to bend the piston.
I figured it was a writeoff.

>> However! I did discover that I could lift the end
>> of a slab with my hydraulic cart and shove a chunk of
>> scrap concrete near the balance point of the slab.
>
> OK.
>
>
>> A few good smacks with the sledge on the cantilevered
>> end and one piece became two. I was just goofing
>> around by then because I'd finished breaking up
>> the pad the day before. I figured it'd help the poor
>> foo^H^H^H hard working young men if the pieces
>> were smaller and easier to carry.
>
> Verily. One can also drill holes in the crete and then try lifting
> it. It'll break right there. My new hammer drill (HF, not Festool)
> works just spiffy for that.

My factory - second Bosch hammer drill goes into masonry
very quickly. Almost 'spooky fast'.

I didn't think to do that though.
Neat idea.


>> (I just sent off a couple photos of the cart
>> to the metalworking drop box. I'll provide
>> links if and when the files show up within.)


--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Tue, 28 Aug 2012 14:57:23 -0700, "[email protected]"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Dropbox photos of hydraulic cart helping demo
>> the third layer of masonry found in my back
>> yard after I broke up the upper two layers
>> for disposal:
>>
>> http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/CreteHarvest.txt
>
> Tres cool. What cad/camming did you do? The crane mount plates, or
> more?

The brackets supporting the new front wheels and the
sub chassis that holds the new lifting jack.
(I didn't 'design' the crane mount plates, I just
plunked it down and scribed and drilled.)

It is all painted orange so it's pretty impossible
to tell which are factory parts and which are
my little additions.

This is a little clearer:
http://www.mwdropbox.com/dropbox/Fencecart1.jpg

I've got a monster 400 KB picture that shows the sub-
frame very clearly; all the CADCAM pieces TIGed together,
before painting. I think I'm about 50% beyond the
limit for patience of our woodworking friends, so I
will refrain from posting and linking that picture.


> Seems to work like a charm.

Even better!

--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Tue, 28 Aug 2012 21:28:17 -0700, "[email protected]"
> <[email protected]> wrote:

(...)

>> That was the failure mechanism.
>> Because fluid was not vented around the lifting cylinder,
>> the force was enough to bend the piston.
>> I figured it was a writeoff.
>
> It's amazing that happened, huh?

I admit I was amazed but in retrospect I
understand how, by pushing that cylinder far
beyond it's limits I caused it to fail.

Lesson learned. :)

(...)

>> My factory - second Bosch hammer drill goes into masonry
>> very quickly. Almost 'spooky fast'.
>
> That's what this one is doing compared to the rillycheaparse Chiwanese
> drill it replaced.

Yup. If you've ever used a 'star drill' and sledge, the
hammer drills appear miraculous.

> This is how it's done in the quarries, and has been for many
> centuries.
> http://www.granitecitytool.com/how-splitting-stones-wedges-and-shims

AKA 'feathers and wedges'. Very elegant but I didn't figure I
had the time for that level of control.

> Grooving abrasively and hitting it with a cold chisel is another way.

Also a continuous diamond saw of both circular and
belt varieties. Very nifty and astonishingly fast.

--Winston

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 13:48:03 -0400, [email protected] wrote:

>On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:46:41 -0400, "[email protected]"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 07:49:42 -0700, "[email protected]"
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>Roger wrote:
>>>> On 8/25/2012 9:57 PM, Winston wrote:
>>>>> Who, Where:
>>>>> Hi all, I'm an electronics tech working in Silicon Gulch CA U.S.
>>>>>
>>>>> What:
>>>>> I have an Anderson Bay window in the MBR that is a real solar
>>>>> collector for the afternoon sun.
>>>
>>>(...)
>>>
>>>>> May I have your thoughts on this please?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks!
>>>>>
>>>>> --Winston
>>>>>
>>>> Have you considered installing plantation shutters? Would be up year
>>>> around but open and close very easily to adjust light and air flow. Have
>>>> used budget blinds plantation shutters in 2 houses and have been pleased
>>>> with functionality and price.
>>>
>>>I'm looking for an external fix.
>>>If the solar energy gets through the window, it'll
>>>just heat the room up.
>>
>>Not so much, if you can reflect it back out. That's one of the purposes of
>>the white drapery liners and some window films. Be careful of window films,
>>though. They may void the warranty on insulated glass panes.
> At the insurance office where I spend every morning there is an
>almost totally glass wall that causes a horific thermal gain. Solar
>fil was installed and within 2 weeks at leat 4 large panels had
>failed. When the units were replaced, and again coated with the film,
>one more broke. It was replaced and everything has now been stable for
>over a year.

Why didn't they just get panes with the film factory installed? It can be put
on the inside surfaces so it isn't exposed to damage from either side[*].

[*] Well, that's the plan, anyway.

On Tue, 28 Aug 2012 21:28:17 -0700, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Tue, 28 Aug 2012 14:49:25 -0700, "[email protected]"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>(...)
>
>>> I'm worried that we are starting to think alike. :)
>>
>> Practically?
>
>Heh! Had to happen eventually, I suppose.

Ayup.


>That was the failure mechanism.
>Because fluid was not vented around the lifting cylinder,
>the force was enough to bend the piston.
>I figured it was a writeoff.

It's amazing that happened, huh?


>>> However! I did discover that I could lift the end
>>> of a slab with my hydraulic cart and shove a chunk of
>>> scrap concrete near the balance point of the slab.
>>
>> OK.
>>
>>
>>> A few good smacks with the sledge on the cantilevered
>>> end and one piece became two. I was just goofing
>>> around by then because I'd finished breaking up
>>> the pad the day before. I figured it'd help the poor
>>> foo^H^H^H hard working young men if the pieces
>>> were smaller and easier to carry.
>>
>> Verily. One can also drill holes in the crete and then try lifting
>> it. It'll break right there. My new hammer drill (HF, not Festool)
>> works just spiffy for that.
>
>My factory - second Bosch hammer drill goes into masonry
>very quickly. Almost 'spooky fast'.

That's what this one is doing compared to the rillycheaparse Chiwanese
drill it replaced.


>I didn't think to do that though.
>Neat idea.

This is how it's done in the quarries, and has been for many
centuries.
http://www.granitecitytool.com/how-splitting-stones-wedges-and-shims

Grooving abrasively and hitting it with a cold chisel is another way.

--
Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing.
This is the ultimate. -- Chuang-tzu

On Tue, 28 Aug 2012 14:49:25 -0700, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Mon, 27 Aug 2012 21:01:28 -0700, "[email protected]"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>(...)
>
>>> The little Hitachi demo hammer was more successful.
>>>
>>> Noisy and Fun!
>>
>> You betcha. Digging a hole for a hyd floor jack and raising the
>> concrete, then using the hammah, can work/help, too.
>
>I'm worried that we are starting to think alike. :)

Practically?


>I managed to total my floor jack doing just that.
>I just *knew* it had a pressure limiter, so I just
>kept pumping the handle.

Oops.


>It didn't have a limiter. Whoops. Bent the piston,
>at about 3/4 elevation. I recycled it and bought a new one.

Whuffo you do dat, son?


>However! I did discover that I could lift the end
>of a slab with my hydraulic cart and shove a chunk of
>scrap concrete near the balance point of the slab.

OK.


>A few good smacks with the sledge on the cantilevered
>end and one piece became two. I was just goofing
>around by then because I'd finished breaking up
>the pad the day before. I figured it'd help the poor
>foo^H^H^H hard working young men if the pieces
>were smaller and easier to carry.

Verily. One can also drill holes in the crete and then try lifting
it. It'll break right there. My new hammer drill (HF, not Festool)
works just spiffy for that.


>I *never* want to work as hard as those guys did.

Grok that.


>(I just sent off a couple photos of the cart
> to the metalworking drop box. I'll provide
> links if and when the files show up within.)

Bueno, bwana.

--
Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing.
This is the ultimate. -- Chuang-tzu

On Mon, 27 Aug 2012 21:01:28 -0700, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 19:14:25 -0700, "[email protected]"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>(...)
>
>>> Gotcha. I agree that is an efficient approach.
>>> 'Tis a microscopic back yard though.
>>> A shade big enough to work properly would be really out
>>> of scale for the (remaining) space.
>>
>> As you said, who cares what the shed (or back yard) looks like?
>
>Ain't an aesthetic issue.
>
>We installed a horrendously expensive hardscape walkway in
>front of this bay window. An awning that dropped down far
>enough to block the rays of the afternoon sun would take up
>too much of that insanely costly square footage.

So solly.


>I was snapping up some old 4" sidewalk in the back yard
>for disposal.
>My first tool of choice was my trusty 24" sledge with
>full overhead swings.
>
>The concrete just laughed at us. Grr.
>
>The little Hitachi demo hammer was more successful.
>
>Noisy and Fun!

You betcha. Digging a hole for a hyd floor jack and raising the
concrete, then using the hammah, can work/help, too.

--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 07:51:35 -0700, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>HeyBub wrote:
>
>(...)
>
>> If cosmetics is of no particular concern - you just want to limit radiation,
>> consider:
>> * Window film,
>> * Shades, or
>> * Drapes.
>>
>> Or all three.
>>
>> We have a west-facing patio door. One afternoon, I measured the temperature
>> of a black toolkit receiving full sunlight through the glass doors. One
>> hundred and ten degrees.
>>
>> Two days later, I installed radiation-blocking window film. At the same time
>> of day, the toolkit was at ambient room temperature.
>
>I'll have to look into that. Thanks!
>
>I'm a little concerned that the window would suffer from
>'reverse-one-way' effect at night, though.

That's why low-E windows have coatings on the inside of both
sandwiched panes, inhibiting heat gain and loss from either side.

--
"Bother", said Pooh, as he chambered another round...