Needed to cut groove in front/back/sides for captive drawer bottoms -
outfitting van... using 3/16" masonite for drawer bottom.
Tried my Sears dado set - used 1 regular blade (1/8") and the 1/16
chipper plus one cardboard spacer. Worked, but lots of smoke - chipper
side of sandwich just burned wood!
Never tried for a groove narrower than 1/4" (both blades) - what did I
do wrong? Better way?
Thanks for comments and suggestions...
Grov
Don't you need a "regular blade" on each side of the chipper? Just a
thought.
WayneS
"Grover" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks PC (and all the others who responded)
>
> Strip is a great idea - have done it before - differrent
> aplication.....
>
>>>> Tried my Sears dado set - used 1 regular blade (1/8") and the 1/16
>>>> chipper plus one cardboard spacer. Worked, but lots of smoke - chipper
>>>> side of sandwich just burned wood!
>>>
Thanks PC (and all the others who responded)
Strip is a great idea - have done it before - differrent
aplication.....
Grov
On Sun, 04 May 2008 12:46:54 GMT, PCPaul <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sun, 04 May 2008 08:31:34 -0400, Robert Haar wrote:
>
>> On 5/4/08 5:45 AMMay 4, "Grover" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Needed to cut groove in front/back/sides for captive drawer bottoms -
>>> outfitting van... using 3/16" masonite for drawer bottom.
>>>
>>> Tried my Sears dado set - used 1 regular blade (1/8") and the 1/16
>>> chipper plus one cardboard spacer. Worked, but lots of smoke - chipper
>>> side of sandwich just burned wood!
>>
>> I would not expect that to work. Dado sets are intended to use both
>> outside blades plus chippers as needed between.
>>>
>>> Never tried for a groove narrower than 1/4" (both blades) - what did I
>>> do wrong? Better way?
>>
>> Either use a router or multiple passes on the table saw.
>
>When I need to do this I do two passes on the tablesaw - the first with
>the distance from the fence to the *outside edge* of the blade set to the
>top edge of the groove, then the second with a thin piece of wood/
>melamine/whatever between the piece and the fence to make the distance
>from fence to *inside edge* of the blade set right for the bottom edge of
>the groove.
>
>The trick is finding the right thickness piece of something to go in the
>gap.... but in this case it sounds like you need something a shade over
>1/16", so that shouldn't be too hard. Stiff cardboard?
>
>If you have a decent fence, just adjust it. For short runs or where you
>don't want to do all of one side then all of the other, my way is a lot
>quicker...
If I had just a few to do I'd use multiple passes on the TS.
If I had a bunch to do I'd try stacking the 2 thin kerf blades I
have(they're the same make/model).
Art
"Grover" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Needed to cut groove in front/back/sides for captive drawer bottoms -
> outfitting van... using 3/16" masonite for drawer bottom.
>
> Tried my Sears dado set - used 1 regular blade (1/8") and the 1/16
> chipper plus one cardboard spacer. Worked, but lots of smoke - chipper
> side of sandwich just burned wood!
>
> Never tried for a groove narrower than 1/4" (both blades) - what did I
> do wrong? Better way?
>
> Thanks for comments and suggestions...
>
> Grov
Grover wrote:
> Needed to cut groove in front/back/sides for captive drawer bottoms -
> outfitting van... using 3/16" masonite for drawer bottom.
>
> Tried my Sears dado set - used 1 regular blade (1/8") and the 1/16
> chipper plus one cardboard spacer. Worked, but lots of smoke - chipper
> side of sandwich just burned wood!
>
> Never tried for a groove narrower than 1/4" (both blades) - what did I
> do wrong?
1. Blade reversed?
2. Blade dull (VERY!)?
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Sun, 04 May 2008 08:31:34 -0400, Robert Haar wrote:
> On 5/4/08 5:45 AMMay 4, "Grover" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Needed to cut groove in front/back/sides for captive drawer bottoms -
>> outfitting van... using 3/16" masonite for drawer bottom.
>>
>> Tried my Sears dado set - used 1 regular blade (1/8") and the 1/16
>> chipper plus one cardboard spacer. Worked, but lots of smoke - chipper
>> side of sandwich just burned wood!
>
> I would not expect that to work. Dado sets are intended to use both
> outside blades plus chippers as needed between.
>>
>> Never tried for a groove narrower than 1/4" (both blades) - what did I
>> do wrong? Better way?
>
> Either use a router or multiple passes on the table saw.
When I need to do this I do two passes on the tablesaw - the first with
the distance from the fence to the *outside edge* of the blade set to the
top edge of the groove, then the second with a thin piece of wood/
melamine/whatever between the piece and the fence to make the distance
from fence to *inside edge* of the blade set right for the bottom edge of
the groove.
The trick is finding the right thickness piece of something to go in the
gap.... but in this case it sounds like you need something a shade over
1/16", so that shouldn't be too hard. Stiff cardboard?
If you have a decent fence, just adjust it. For short runs or where you
don't want to do all of one side then all of the other, my way is a lot
quicker...
"Grover" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 4 May 2008 06:19:05 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Grover" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> Needed to cut groove in front/back/sides for captive drawer bottoms -
>>> outfitting van... using 3/16" masonite for drawer bottom.
>>>
>>> Tried my Sears dado set - used 1 regular blade (1/8") and the 1/16
>>> chipper plus one cardboard spacer. Worked, but lots of smoke - chipper
>>> side of sandwich just burned wood!
>>>
>>> Never tried for a groove narrower than 1/4" (both blades) - what did I
>>> do wrong? Better way?
>>>
>>
>>Something that narrow can be done with multiple passes of a regular saw
>>blade. Make sure your fence is adjusted carefully for each cut. And make
>>certain of this by making your first cuts each time on scrap.
>>
>>There are lots of things done with multiple passes on the radial arm saw.
>>It
>>can easily be done on the table saw as well.
>>
>>Dado jigs for the router often define the outer edges. You cut the two
>>edges
>>and then clean out the middle. Again, multiple passes.
>>
>>Maybe you could find a 3/16" router bit and use that to cut your dados.
>>
>>
>>
>>
> Wow - quick response! Up pretty early! (I'm in Maine). Thanks!
>
> I thought about the multiple pass approach, but my saw - delta fence
> with 3-point support - forget it's formal name - doesn't have any
> provision for a micro adjust, and have had poor luck with accurate
> positioning.
>
> I do have an older Incra fence thingy, but a PITA to set up, and I'm
> only building 6 drawers for work van storage, not a piano! I was
> looking for "quick and dirty", but sometimes there is no Q&D solution.
>
> Thought about a 3/16" router bit, but don't have one, and in reality,
> I need a scoch more than 3/16"......
>
Actually, I am up late.
Go to a router solution then. Get a router bit that is narrower than what
you need. Set up the jig to give you the exact width required. Clamp on the
jig and cut the dados.
Now I have to get to bed.
On May 4, 3:36=A0am, Grover <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 4 May 2008 06:19:05 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
> >Something that narrow can be done with multiple passes of a regular saw
> >blade. =A0Make sure your fence is adjusted carefully\
> I thought about the multiple pass approach, but my saw - delta fence
> with 3-point support - forget it's formal name - doesn't have any
> provision for a micro adjust,
Rip a spacer strip, 1.500" by 1.437", and place or clamp
it beside the rip fence. Run the board through, rotate the
spacer 90 degrees, run the board through again.
Router is a poor choice, it's going to make ragged sidewalls.
A 7" saw blade, full kerf, will work better than a 10" or narrow kerf
blade for this kind of thing.
"Grover" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Needed to cut groove in front/back/sides for captive drawer bottoms -
> outfitting van... using 3/16" masonite for drawer bottom.
>
> Tried my Sears dado set - used 1 regular blade (1/8") and the 1/16
> chipper plus one cardboard spacer. Worked, but lots of smoke - chipper
> side of sandwich just burned wood!
>
> Never tried for a groove narrower than 1/4" (both blades) - what did I
> do wrong? Better way?
>
Something that narrow can be done with multiple passes of a regular saw
blade. Make sure your fence is adjusted carefully for each cut. And make
certain of this by making your first cuts each time on scrap.
There are lots of things done with multiple passes on the radial arm saw. It
can easily be done on the table saw as well.
Dado jigs for the router often define the outer edges. You cut the two edges
and then clean out the middle. Again, multiple passes.
Maybe you could find a 3/16" router bit and use that to cut your dados.
On 5/4/08 5:45 AMMay 4, "Grover" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Needed to cut groove in front/back/sides for captive drawer bottoms -
> outfitting van... using 3/16" masonite for drawer bottom.
>
> Tried my Sears dado set - used 1 regular blade (1/8") and the 1/16
> chipper plus one cardboard spacer. Worked, but lots of smoke - chipper
> side of sandwich just burned wood!
I would not expect that to work. Dado sets are intended to use both outside
blades plus chippers as needed between.
>
> Never tried for a groove narrower than 1/4" (both blades) - what did I
> do wrong? Better way?
Either use a router or multiple passes on the table saw.
"WayneS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Don't you need a "regular blade" on each side of the chipper? Just a
> thought.
.
Pretty much, so to speak.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:c%[email protected]...
>
> "whit3rd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:5a608bbb-4516-4ab3-a0e9-fe6bea7e4f6c@a70g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
> On May 4, 3:36 am, Grover <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Sun, 4 May 2008 06:19:05 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
>> >Something that narrow can be done with multiple passes of a regular saw
>> >blade. Make sure your fence is adjusted carefully\
>
>> I thought about the multiple pass approach, but my saw - delta fence
>> with 3-point support - forget it's formal name - doesn't have any
>> provision for a micro adjust,
>
> Rip a spacer strip, 1.500" by 1.437", and place or clamp
> it beside the rip fence. Run the board through, rotate the
> spacer 90 degrees, run the board through again.
>
>
> No matter how many times I try, I come up 1.436" or 1.438"
>
Use your belt sander to take that 1.438 down to size. Won't take long with
40 grit.
"Grover" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
> Wow - quick response! Up pretty early! (I'm in Maine). Thanks!
>
> I thought about the multiple pass approach, but my saw - delta fence
> with 3-point support - forget it's formal name - doesn't have any
> provision for a micro adjust, and have had poor luck with accurate
> positioning.
>
> I do have an older Incra fence thingy, but a PITA to set up, and I'm
> only building 6 drawers for work van storage, not a piano! I was
> looking for "quick and dirty", but sometimes there is no Q&D solution.
>
> Thought about a 3/16" router bit, but don't have one, and in reality,
> I need a scoch more than 3/16"......
>
> Grov
So wood working is often needing the feel and touch approach. With time and
experience you will earn to hang on to scraps for test fits. You can get
fine cuts by moving the fence a touch once or twice to get the width of cut
perfect. This sounds like a lot of trouble but there are those that think
that measuring the stock to fit the grove, measure the resulting grove,
calculating the difference and then using some kind of dial indicator to
move the fence that distance and then making the cut, is faster. NOT!
On Sun, 04 May 2008 06:36:18 -0400, Grover wrote:
> On Sun, 4 May 2008 06:19:05 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>"Grover" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> Needed to cut groove in front/back/sides for captive drawer bottoms -
>>> outfitting van... using 3/16" masonite for drawer bottom.
>>>
>>> Tried my Sears dado set - used 1 regular blade (1/8") and the 1/16
>>> chipper plus one cardboard spacer. Worked, but lots of smoke - chipper
>>> side of sandwich just burned wood!
> I thought about the multiple pass approach, but my saw - delta fence
> with 3-point support - forget it's formal name - doesn't have any
> provision for a micro adjust, and have had poor luck with accurate
> positioning.
Micro adjust for a fence like that is, leave it almost locked down then
tap it gently a few times with a finger. You'd be amazed at how good you
can get things with that method.
On Sun, 04 May 2008 11:32:14 GMT, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Grover wrote:
>> Needed to cut groove in front/back/sides for captive drawer bottoms -
>> outfitting van... using 3/16" masonite for drawer bottom.
>>
>> Tried my Sears dado set - used 1 regular blade (1/8") and the 1/16
>> chipper plus one cardboard spacer. Worked, but lots of smoke - chipper
>> side of sandwich just burned wood!
>>
>> Never tried for a groove narrower than 1/4" (both blades) - what did I
>> do wrong?
>
>1. Blade reversed?
Nope.
>
>2. Blade dull (VERY!)?
Nope. Stack was 1/8" blade - sharp, cardboard washer, and 1/16"
chipper.
Grov
"whit3rd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:5a608bbb-4516-4ab3-a0e9-fe6bea7e4f6c@a70g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
On May 4, 3:36 am, Grover <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 4 May 2008 06:19:05 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
> >Something that narrow can be done with multiple passes of a regular saw
> >blade. Make sure your fence is adjusted carefully\
> I thought about the multiple pass approach, but my saw - delta fence
> with 3-point support - forget it's formal name - doesn't have any
> provision for a micro adjust,
Rip a spacer strip, 1.500" by 1.437", and place or clamp
it beside the rip fence. Run the board through, rotate the
spacer 90 degrees, run the board through again.
No matter how many times I try, I come up 1.436" or 1.438"
On May 4, 5:45=A0am, Grover <[email protected]> wrote:
> Needed to cut groove in front/back/sides for captive drawer bottoms -
> outfitting van... using 3/16" masonite for drawer bottom.
>
> Tried my Sears dado set - used 1 regular blade (1/8") and the 1/16
> chipper plus one cardboard spacer. Worked, but lots of smoke - chipper
> side of sandwich just burned wood!
>
> Never tried for a groove narrower than 1/4" (both blades) - what did I
> do wrong? Better way?
>
> Thanks for comments and suggestions...
>
> Grov
The chippers in a dado set aren't made for outside cuts. They can
burn and kick back. Actually, I'm surprised that a blade plus the one
chipper gave you a 3/16" cut - the cutting edge on the chipper is
wider than 1/16", and your dado should have been too wide even before
the cardboard spacer.
Others have mentioned moving the fence, a wobble dado and router bits
- all of which will work.
Another option is a set of wobble washers. These are sets of four
tapered washers - tow on each side of your saw blade. You can adjust
the wobble from none at all up to a 3/4" or so dado. I wouldn't use
them for a wide dado, as you get a rounded bottom, but for 3/16" you
wouldn't notice. I'm not sure who sells them today, but think Sears
carried them at least in the past. They're cheap, by the way.
You could always widen the 1/8" kerf from your regular saw blade with
a side rabbet plane. I wouldn't use a single dado saw blade - they
are ground to cut cleanly on one side only.
John Martin
Leon wrote:
> "WayneS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Don't you need a "regular blade" on each side of the chipper? Just a
>> thought.
> .
>
> Pretty much, so to speak.
>
>
3/16" might be possible by taking the 2 outer blades and rotating them
so the teeth of one line up with the spaces in between on the other,
reducing the effective width of each blade.
Otherwise, make a pass with 1 blade and move the fence for a 2nd pass.
Or, make a pass with a shim between the work piece and the fence, then
make a 2nd pass without the shim.
Harvey
On Sun, 04 May 2008 06:36:18 -0400, Grover wrote:
> I thought about the multiple pass approach, but my saw - delta fence
> with 3-point support - forget it's formal name - doesn't have any
> provision for a micro adjust, and have had poor luck with accurate
> positioning.
Unless you're using a thin kerf blade, your blade should cut just a wee
bit over 1/8". Put a 1/16" spacer (thick veneer) on the fence for the
first cuts and remove it for the second cus.
On Sun, 4 May 2008 06:19:05 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Grover" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Needed to cut groove in front/back/sides for captive drawer bottoms -
>> outfitting van... using 3/16" masonite for drawer bottom.
>>
>> Tried my Sears dado set - used 1 regular blade (1/8") and the 1/16
>> chipper plus one cardboard spacer. Worked, but lots of smoke - chipper
>> side of sandwich just burned wood!
>>
>> Never tried for a groove narrower than 1/4" (both blades) - what did I
>> do wrong? Better way?
>>
>
>Something that narrow can be done with multiple passes of a regular saw
>blade. Make sure your fence is adjusted carefully for each cut. And make
>certain of this by making your first cuts each time on scrap.
>
>There are lots of things done with multiple passes on the radial arm saw. It
>can easily be done on the table saw as well.
>
>Dado jigs for the router often define the outer edges. You cut the two edges
>and then clean out the middle. Again, multiple passes.
>
>Maybe you could find a 3/16" router bit and use that to cut your dados.
>
>
>
>
Wow - quick response! Up pretty early! (I'm in Maine). Thanks!
I thought about the multiple pass approach, but my saw - delta fence
with 3-point support - forget it's formal name - doesn't have any
provision for a micro adjust, and have had poor luck with accurate
positioning.
I do have an older Incra fence thingy, but a PITA to set up, and I'm
only building 6 drawers for work van storage, not a piano! I was
looking for "quick and dirty", but sometimes there is no Q&D solution.
Thought about a 3/16" router bit, but don't have one, and in reality,
I need a scoch more than 3/16"......
Grov
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>>
>> No matter how many times I try, I come up 1.436" or 1.438"
>>
>
>
> Use your belt sander to take that 1.438 down to size. Won't take long with
> 40 grit.
>
Ohhhhh!