I build a lot of boxes. Materials used include red oak, poplar and
pine. No problem with the hard woods BUT.
When finishing white pine with Minwax clear gloss polyurethane (oil
base). The first coat obviously raises grain and requires light
sanding and another coat. Now recently I have had to apply a third
coat and still have spots that when looking across the glaze appear to
have been missed. I know to use a sanding sealer before staining (no
stain in this case). Suppose that would be a better seal than the
poly?
Suggestions will be appreciated.
Kenneth
"Digger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I agree about the yellow can. Are you saying to raise the grain with
> water then apply the poly? Minwax oil based poly is the same as
> several other brands so I have no problem with it. BTW the best tinted
> paste wax I have ever found is from England (can't remember the name
> at the moment) but their US distributer is in Memphis. Last time I
> bought a gallon was 80.00 but last forever.
> Kenneth
I think he is saying that oil based finishes DO NOT raise the grain. Only
water based finishes raise the grain.
With pine you should first go down with a sanding sealer so that the varnish
does not soak in and give the blotchy spots you mention.
Digger <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I build a lot of boxes. Materials used include red oak, poplar and
> pine. No problem with the hard woods BUT.
>
> When finishing white pine with Minwax clear gloss polyurethane (oil
> base). The first coat obviously raises grain and requires light
> sanding and another coat. Now recently I have had to apply a third
> coat and still have spots that when looking across the glaze appear to
> have been missed. I know to use a sanding sealer before staining (no
> stain in this case). Suppose that would be a better seal than the
> poly?
>
> Suggestions will be appreciated.
> Kenneth
>
Raising the grain with water is a problem? Then a quick sanding, with fine
paper, and you should be ok. Even if you DO want to mess up the project
with Minwax...
;-)
Patriarch,
not a fan of the yellow can...
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 21:29:02 -0500, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Digger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> I agree about the yellow can. Are you saying to raise the grain with
>> water then apply the poly? Minwax oil based poly is the same as
>> several other brands so I have no problem with it. BTW the best tinted
>> paste wax I have ever found is from England (can't remember the name
>> at the moment) but their US distributer is in Memphis. Last time I
>> bought a gallon was 80.00 but last forever.
>> Kenneth
>
>I think he is saying that oil based finishes DO NOT raise the grain. Only
>water based finishes raise the grain.
>
>With pine you should first go down with a sanding sealer so that the varnish
>does not soak in and give the blotchy spots you mention.
>
Ahh, I appreciate that!
On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 20:39:30 -0500, Patriarch
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Digger <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> I build a lot of boxes. Materials used include red oak, poplar and
>> pine. No problem with the hard woods BUT.
>>
>> When finishing white pine with Minwax clear gloss polyurethane (oil
>> base). The first coat obviously raises grain and requires light
>> sanding and another coat. Now recently I have had to apply a third
>> coat and still have spots that when looking across the glaze appear to
>> have been missed. I know to use a sanding sealer before staining (no
>> stain in this case). Suppose that would be a better seal than the
>> poly?
>>
>> Suggestions will be appreciated.
>> Kenneth
>>
>
>Raising the grain with water is a problem? Then a quick sanding, with fine
>paper, and you should be ok. Even if you DO want to mess up the project
>with Minwax...
>
>;-)
>
>Patriarch,
>not a fan of the yellow can...
I agree about the yellow can. Are you saying to raise the grain with
water then apply the poly? Minwax oil based poly is the same as
several other brands so I have no problem with it. BTW the best tinted
paste wax I have ever found is from England (can't remember the name
at the moment) but their US distributer is in Memphis. Last time I
bought a gallon was 80.00 but last forever.
Kenneth
Digger wrote:
> On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 20:39:30 -0500, Patriarch
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Digger <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> I build a lot of boxes. Materials used include red oak, poplar and
>>> pine. No problem with the hard woods BUT.
>>>
>>> When finishing white pine with Minwax clear gloss polyurethane
>>> (oil base). The first coat obviously raises grain and requires
>>> light sanding and another coat. Now recently I have had to apply
>>> a third coat and still have spots that when looking across the
>>> glaze appear to have been missed. I know to use a sanding sealer
>>> before staining (no stain in this case). Suppose that would be a
>>> better seal than the poly?
>>>
>>> Suggestions will be appreciated.
>>> Kenneth
>>>
>>
>> Raising the grain with water is a problem? Then a quick sanding,
>> with fine paper, and you should be ok. Even if you DO want to
>> mess up the project with Minwax...
>>
>> ;-)
>>
>> Patriarch,
>> not a fan of the yellow can...
>
> I agree about the yellow can. Are you saying to raise the grain with
> water then apply the poly?
No. Raise grain, sand, apply poly.
--
dadiOH
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