On Apr 2, 3:58 pm, Pat Barber <[email protected]> wrote:
> Want to see some of the very best woodworking on
> a different level ???
>
> Check this out:
>
> http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?t=35139&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
>
> My hat is off to this guy...
>
> Please make note of the material.
There were some dead-give-aways in those pictures...but I couldn't
find them! I love obsessed people.
R
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.woodworking/browse_thread/thread/1cd98b474a5b8192/d13e5e742da74bd0?hl=en&lnk=st&q=#d13e5e742da74bd0
On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 14:11:27 GMT, Pat Barber
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Yeppp.. the infamous router table deluxe.
>
>I can't find my links to those pictures, but he
>did some similar type engineering using good old
>MDF.
>
>
>Leon wrote:
>
>> Very nice work. I was thinking that it looked a little too good for even a
>> factory finish many years back.
>>
>> IIRC Keith did something very much like this.
>>
>>
Tom Watson
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
Pat Barber wrote:
> Granted...(I'm a awful finishing guy.. but I'm learning)
>
> The ideas this guy came up with are beyond my normal
> scope of operations. I was wondering if the finishing
> bubba's were taking a look at those pictures....
The idea _is_ fantastic. I didn't mean to downplay the overall finished
project, I really like it, and it shows great effort.
It's the time and effort he put into the finish that makes it special,
the actual techniques aren't difficult at all, they just require
persistence.
The beauty of a painted finish on MDF from a novice's standpoint is that
practice material is really cheap, and it can all be done with cheap
tools, easy to find materials, like Bondo, auto body primer, sanding
blocks and spray cans! <G>
>
> I guess the reason I posted that link was the whining
> I see here about how terrible mdf is and how it can
> not be used for any "real" woodworking.
I agree.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
note of the material.
>
> Damn, time to try something else ... how much does it cost in
> time/equipment/learning curve to switch to needlepoint, or crocheting?
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 3/27/08
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
>
>
Apparently even crocheting can be expensive
http://crochet.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ/Ya&sdn=crochet&cdn=hobbies&tm=15&f=20&su=p445.92.150.ip_&tt=14&bt=1&bts=1&zu=http%3A//www.brainsbarn.com/Allen
"Allen Roy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> note of the material.
>>
>> Damn, time to try something else ... how much does it cost in
>> time/equipment/learning curve to switch to needlepoint, or crocheting?
>>
>> --
>> www.e-woodshop.net
>> Last update: 3/27/08
>> KarlC@ (the obvious)
>>
>>
> Apparently even crocheting can be expensive
>
>
http://crochet.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ/Ya&sdn=crochet&cdn=hobbies&tm=15&f=20&su=p445.92.150.ip_&tt=14&bt=1&bts=1&zu=http%3A//www.brainsbarn.com/
Sorry here is the right link
Allen
>
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> Damn, time to try something else ... how much does it cost in
> time/equipment/learning curve to switch to needlepoint, or crocheting?
>
Menards has had their Performax mini-lathe on sale for around $100
recently... A couple knitting needles should be easy to turn. (A
crochet hook still isn't complicated, except for the hook at the end...)
Not sure about the yarn...but it sounds like I'm spinning some. :-)
Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
I been wanting to try some of these type finishes but never
got a good reason...
Have you ever done any of this type ?
http://www.generalfinishes.com/msds-data/Milk%20Paint%20Data%20Sheet-062007.pdf
B A R R Y wrote:
> Pat Barber wrote:
>
>> I forgot to ask:
>>
>> Is this where a "Critter" might make a showing ???
>>
>> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=20048&cat=1,190,43034&ap=1
>
>
>
> Now you're thinking!
Leon wrote:
> "Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Want to see some of the very best woodworking on
>>a different level ???
>>
>>
>>Check this out:
>>
>>http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?t=35139&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
>>
>>My hat is off to this guy...
>>
>>Please make note of the material.
>
>
> Very nice work. I was thinking that it looked a little too good for even a
> factory finish many years back.
>
> IIRC Keith did something very much like this.
>
>
If you didn't notice Keith is mentioned in the article.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
"Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Want to see some of the very best woodworking on
> a different level ???
>
>
> Check this out:
>
> http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?t=35139&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
>
> My hat is off to this guy...
>
> Please make note of the material.
Very nice work. I was thinking that it looked a little too good for even a
factory finish many years back.
IIRC Keith did something very much like this.
Pat Barber wrote:
>
> Maybe you can give some pointers on how to proceed with
> paint on mdf ???
My favorite is a spraying of BIN or auto body primer, followed by Bondo
on the edges. Once I've used coarser grits of sandpaper, files, etc...
to smooth the Bondo, I sand the whole thing to 220, 320 or 400. I spray
it again, and sand again w/ 400. By that time, the part is usually
ready for a spray of enamel or lacquer. If not, I do one more spraying
of primer followed by 400 grit.
When applying the primer, you'll want to sand most of it off, except for
the final primering (with the 400 rub).
Once you're in the color coats, you can sand with 600-800 and recoat.
Grab some stuff and play, you'll like it!
Ok ... that sounds good but what about the crowd that
hasn't got to spraying yet ???
Is it possible with a brush or rollers ???
Why the bondo on the edges ???
B A R R Y wrote:
> My favorite is a spraying of BIN or auto body primer, followed by Bondo
> on the edges. Once I've used coarser grits of sandpaper, files, etc...
> to smooth the Bondo, I sand the whole thing to 220, 320 or 400. I spray
> it again, and sand again w/ 400. By that time, the part is usually
> ready for a spray of enamel or lacquer. If not, I do one more spraying
> of primer followed by 400 grit.
>
> When applying the primer, you'll want to sand most of it off, except for
> the final primering (with the 400 rub).
>
> Once you're in the color coats, you can sand with 600-800 and recoat.
>
> Grab some stuff and play, you'll like it!
I agree, the finish "is" the project. Without that fantastic
paint job, it would be neat, but "with" a little paint and
sanding, "wow" is the only thing that comes to mind.
I hope it inspires more people to look at finishing at all
levels. It certainly did it for me.
I have a few of those "just mdf" cabinets I use for tool
storage and they would sure make a good candidate for this
type of finish.
Maybe you can give some pointers on how to proceed with
paint on mdf ???
B A R R Y wrote:
> It's the time and effort he put into the finish that makes it special,
> the actual techniques aren't difficult at all, they just require
> persistence.
>
> The beauty of a painted finish on MDF from a novice's standpoint is that
> practice material is really cheap, and it can all be done with cheap
> tools, easy to find materials, like Bondo, auto body primer, sanding
> blocks and spray cans! <G>
>
>>
>> I guess the reason I posted that link was the whining
>> I see here about how terrible mdf is and how it can
>> not be used for any "real" woodworking.
>
>
> I agree.
>
I forgot to ask:
Is this where a "Critter" might make a showing ???
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=20048&cat=1,190,43034&ap=1
B A R R Y wrote:
>
> My favorite is a spraying of BIN or auto body primer, followed by Bondo
> on the edges. Once I've used coarser grits of sandpaper, files, etc...
> to smooth the Bondo, I sand the whole thing to 220, 320 or 400. I spray
> it again, and sand again w/ 400. By that time, the part is usually
> ready for a spray of enamel or lacquer. If not, I do one more spraying
> of primer followed by 400 grit.
>
> When applying the primer, you'll want to sand most of it off, except for
> the final primering (with the 400 rub).
>
> Once you're in the color coats, you can sand with 600-800 and recoat.
On Apr 2, 3:58 pm, Pat Barber <[email protected]> wrote:
> Want to see some of the very best woodworking on
> a different level ???
>
> Check this out:
>
> http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?t=35139&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
>
> My hat is off to this guy...
>
> Please make note of the material.
Nice bit of pattern making. He should have sent to them a foundry.
"Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Want to see some of the very best woodworking on
> a different level ???
>
>
> Check this out:
>
> http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?t=35139&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
>
> My hat is off to this guy...
>
> Please make note of the material.
Goes to show ya that it all boils down to a man and his tools. Skill and
imagination can perform wonders, even on a tight budget. Reminds me of that
old Stewart Brand Principle, "Never confuse a lack of funds for a lack of
resources".
Pat Barber wrote:
> Ok ... that sounds good but what about the crowd that
> hasn't got to spraying yet ???
Spray cans! <G> I've done many a guitar, speaker enclosure, or other
smaller item with spray bombs. Lot's of nice colors, and clear coats
for top coating at any decent auto parts store.
>
> Is it possible with a brush or rollers ???
Actually it is, but you'll sand and rub a lot more. You also might need
to wait longer before rubbing. The flip side is that you'll have a
thicker layer to rub, before you accidentally rub through. For flat
surfaces, use a cork or wood sanding block. For the edges and gentle
curves, a felt block is good. Edges can be done with "tadpole" sanders
or foam (pink or blue insulation) blocks.
A neat trick on edges is to rout them, apply a thin coat of filler or
heavy coat of seal coat, then do another pass with the router.
The priming of the overall piece and filling of the edges follow the
same theory. You'll apply the product and sand most of it off,
repeating until you have a glass-smooth surface.
>
> Why the bondo on the edges ???
It fills the MDF. Other suggestions for sandable fillers that work
well for me include drywall spackle, modeller's "spot putty", or many
coats of shellac. Glue will fill, but it's difficult to sand.
Keep in mind during early experiments that an off-white, silver, or
machine gray will be a bit more forgiving with the final finish. Black
isn't the best choice on your first panel.
Once you're rubbing out color and clear coats, for a super gloss, you
can go up into the 1000-2000 grit sandpaper range, and finish with
automotive rubbing compounds.
The fun part of this is the lack of a downside. If you accidentally rub
through a paint coat, spray another on and continue! The raw material
is literally throw-away, it's not like you're ruining a rare exotic wood
if you screw up.
Have a good time!
Yeppp.. the infamous router table deluxe.
I can't find my links to those pictures, but he
did some similar type engineering using good old
MDF.
Leon wrote:
> Very nice work. I was thinking that it looked a little too good for even a
> factory finish many years back.
>
> IIRC Keith did something very much like this.
>
>
"Pat Barber" wrote
> Want to see some of the very best woodworking on
> a different level ???
>
>
> Check this out:
>
> http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?t=35139&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
>
> My hat is off to this guy...
>
> Please make note of the material.
Damn, time to try something else ... how much does it cost in
time/equipment/learning curve to switch to needlepoint, or crocheting?
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/27/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
Granted...(I'm a awful finishing guy.. but I'm learning)
The ideas this guy came up with are beyond my normal
scope of operations. I was wondering if the finishing
bubba's were taking a look at those pictures....
I guess the reason I posted that link was the whining
I see here about how terrible mdf is and how it can
not be used for any "real" woodworking.
I have seen some unbelievable projects done with MDF.
This was just another one.
B A R R Y wrote:
> Pat Barber wrote:
>
>>
>> Please make note of the material.
>
>
> You could do that.
>
> MDF is insanely easy to finish with paint.