Help-design idea

Here's a couple more ideas:

-Do a simple inlay strip of about an 1/8" around all 4 sides of the
table top. Say about 1" - 3" in from the edge (whatever looks good to
you). Do it in a nice contrasting wood.

-Add some mock through tenon pieces on the legs opposite the aprons.
???

I would suggest not staining or dyeing it. You've made a table out of
maple; don't try to make it something it's not. If you want a cherry
table, make it out of cherry. I don't understand people trying to pass
off one wood, especially as one as noble as maple, as another.

My $0.02 worth,
Ian

Ray wrote:
> I'm working on a coffee table and need some ideas. The table is 18H
x 21 x 52. It is being made out of maple which I am planning to
stain/dye a light cherry.


> Any suggestion/ideas would be appreciated.
>
> --
> Too much is not enough!
> Ray
> rvojtashNOTTHIS@comcastDOTnet

Variations in wood can be a negative or a positive. Try approaching it
from another point of view. The wood doesn't turn orange, the finish
does. Oil based poly has a yellow colour to it and will darken over
time. Water based poly is clear and stays clear. My personal opinion
would be don't use oil based. IMO, it does not improve the look of
maple.

On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 20:12:25 -0700, toolguy wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):

> Here's a couple more ideas:
>
> -Do a simple inlay strip of about an 1/8" around all 4 sides of the
> table top. Say about 1" - 3" in from the edge (whatever looks good to
> you). Do it in a nice contrasting wood.
>
> -Add some mock through tenon pieces on the legs opposite the aprons.
> ???
>

I think given the general "blocky" design on the IKEA page, using a roundover
on the top is counter to the basic shape. Perhaps a 45 degree chamfer on the
underside of the top?

-Bruce

On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 04:40:39 -0700, Ray wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):

> I need to do something to even out the color. I matched the boards as best
> I could but there are still some variations. Will maple turn orange like
> pine does when poly is applied? I have plenty of scrap to experiment
> with...
>
>

You really need a dye versus a pigment stain for Maple to avoid blotchs and
get a good even (and deep) color.
check out the samples at http://www.homesteadfinishing.com

-Bruce

I agree. I don't think maple takes stain very well anyway...


[email protected] wrote:
> I would suggest not staining or dyeing it. You've made a table out of
> maple; don't try to make it something it's not. If you want a cherry
> table, make it out of cherry. I don't understand people trying to pass
> off one wood, especially as one as noble as maple, as another.
>
> My $0.02 worth,
> Ian
>
> Ray wrote:
>
>>I'm working on a coffee table and need some ideas. The table is 18H
>
> x 21 x 52. It is being made out of maple which I am planning to
> stain/dye a light cherry.
>
>
>
>>Any suggestion/ideas would be appreciated.
>>
>>--
>>Too much is not enough!
>>Ray
>>rvojtashNOTTHIS@comcastDOTnet
>
>

"Ray" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> I'm working on a coffee table and need some ideas. The table is 18H x
> 21 x 52. It is being made out of maple which I am planning to
> stain/dye a light cherry.
>
> I did my dry fit and SWMBO said "It needs something". The table is
> very plain with no drawers or lower shelf. It looks something like
> this:
> http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=
> 10101&storeId=12&productId=13559&langId=-1&parentCats=10105*10311
> except it has tapered legs. The top has been rounded over top 3/8 and
> bottom 1/4, the apron is 3 3/8 and set back from the outside edge of
> the legs about 1/8.

With the tapered legs, it might also look good with a slight curve along
the bottom of the apron. Just an idea ...

> She also suggested a 'V' cut into the top around the perimeter like
> they do on the furniture in the stores to hide the sloppy joints. I
> would dread cutting into the top, one slip and back for more lumber.

I'm not sure what 'V' cut you mean, but I am wondering if you might be able
to do it by the scratch stock method.

"Ray" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> "Nate Perkins" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> With the tapered legs, it might also look good with a slight curve
>> along the bottom of the apron. Just an idea ...
> The curve sounds like a good option. I guess I'll have to mock one up
> for her or find a sample.
>>
>>> She also suggested a 'V' cut into the top around the perimeter like
>>> they do on the furniture in the stores to hide the sloppy joints.
>>
>> I'm not sure what 'V' cut you mean, but I am wondering if you might
>> be able
>> to do it by the scratch stock method.
> I'm not familiar with the scratch stock method. Explain please...

It's a small homemade scraping tool usually used for making relatively
shallow grooves or beads along the edge of a project. See
http://www.geocities.com/plybench/scratch.html for example.

In article <[email protected]>,
Trevor <[email protected]> wrote:

> I agree. I don't think maple takes stain very well anyway...
>
>
And when it does take stain... blotch city.

"Nate Perkins" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> With the tapered legs, it might also look good with a slight curve along
> the bottom of the apron. Just an idea ...
The curve sounds like a good option. I guess I'll have to mock one up for
her or find a sample.
>
>> She also suggested a 'V' cut into the top around the perimeter like
>> they do on the furniture in the stores to hide the sloppy joints.
>
> I'm not sure what 'V' cut you mean, but I am wondering if you might be
> able
> to do it by the scratch stock method.
I'm not familiar with the scratch stock method. Explain please...
--
Too much is not enough!
Ray
rvojtashNOTTHIS@comcastDOTnet

I'm too afraid to cut into this top to try something like the inlay, maybe
on another project. What about expansion and contraction on a wood top with
an inlay running perpindicular?

"toolguy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Here's a couple more ideas:
>
> -Do a simple inlay strip of about an 1/8" around all 4 sides of the
> table top. Say about 1" - 3" in from the edge (whatever looks good to
> you). Do it in a nice contrasting wood.
>
> -Add some mock through tenon pieces on the legs opposite the aprons.
> ???
>

I need to do something to even out the color. I matched the boards as best
I could but there are still some variations. Will maple turn orange like
pine does when poly is applied? I have plenty of scrap to experiment
with...

--
Too much is not enough!
Ray
rvojtashNOTTHIS@comcastDOTnet

"Trevor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I agree. I don't think maple takes stain very well anyway...
>
>
> [email protected] wrote:
>> I would suggest not staining or dyeing it. You've made a table out of
>> maple; don't try to make it something it's not. If you want a cherry
>> table, make it out of cherry. I don't understand people trying to pass
>> off one wood, especially as one as noble as maple, as another.
>>
>> My $0.02 worth,
>> Ian