Hi all,
Yesterday afternoon I was running a board through my direct drive table saw,
an older 10" Delta model. Half way through the board (I was probably trying
to run it through a *little* too fast), the blade stopped and the reset
switch popped. Stupid me reset it, tried again (everything powered up
normally) and after a bit more cutting it happened again. Now every time I
start the saw the blade begins spinning, but it doesn't sound (or look) like
it's running at full power. She feels like she's revving up to get up to
speed, but once it nears that point the reset switch always pops. I've tried
leaving it for 15 minutes, an hour, etc, before trying it again, always with
the same result.
I opened up the power box connected to the switch and reset button and gave
it a good clean out - very dirty. I also tool the air compressor to the
motor and gave it a good blow out (didn't disassemble it, though). I've
tried connecting it directly to the outlet (to eliminate the extension
cord), no luck (I am on 220 service).
I'm a little lost and wondering if there's something I might be missing in
trying to get this sorted. Is it possibly a capacitor problem? The saw is
old, but was running perfectly well until I took it to stupid village
yesterday. I personally don't think it's the motor, but then what the hell
do I know. The inside of the electrical connection box gave off what I
considered to be a slightly funny smell when the second reset happened, so
that leads me to believe it may be the source of the problem. The
connections in there are pretty grubby, but I haven't tested it all yet (any
advice for the electronically impaired here so that I can do it right?).
Please, Obi-wans of woodworking, you're my only hope.
Any advice or insight appreciated, including those laced with sarcasm and a
general disdain for a classic dumbass-kills-saw types.
Thanks,
Dan
Dan wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Yesterday afternoon I was running a board through my direct drive table saw,
> an older 10" Delta model. Half way through the board (I was probably trying
> to run it through a *little* too fast), the blade stopped and the reset
> switch popped.
< snip >
> Any advice or insight appreciated, including those laced with sarcasm and a
> general disdain for a classic dumbass-kills-saw types.
>
> Thanks,
> Dan
Hey, breaking a tool happens to everyone. The place you are screwing
up is trying to fix it. This is a perfect opportunity to buy a new
tool.
"Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi all,
>
> Yesterday afternoon I was running a board through my direct drive table
> saw, an older 10" Delta model. Half way through the board (I was probably
> trying to run it through a *little* too fast), the blade stopped and the
> reset switch popped. Stupid me reset it, tried again (everything powered
> up normally) and after a bit more cutting it happened again. Now every
> time I start the saw the blade begins spinning, but it doesn't sound (or
> look) like it's running at full power. She feels like she's revving up to
> get up to speed, but once it nears that point the reset switch always
> pops. I've tried leaving it for 15 minutes, an hour, etc, before trying it
> again, always with the same result.
>
> I opened up the power box connected to the switch and reset button and
> gave it a good clean out - very dirty. I also tool the air compressor to
> the motor and gave it a good blow out (didn't disassemble it, though).
> I've tried connecting it directly to the outlet (to eliminate the
> extension cord), no luck (I am on 220 service).
>
> I'm a little lost and wondering if there's something I might be missing in
> trying to get this sorted. Is it possibly a capacitor problem? The saw is
> old, but was running perfectly well until I took it to stupid village
> yesterday. I personally don't think it's the motor, but then what the hell
> do I know. The inside of the electrical connection box gave off what I
> considered to be a slightly funny smell when the second reset happened, so
> that leads me to believe it may be the source of the problem. The
> connections in there are pretty grubby, but I haven't tested it all yet
> (any advice for the electronically impaired here so that I can do it
> right?).
>
> Please, Obi-wans of woodworking, you're my only hope.
>
> Any advice or insight appreciated, including those laced with sarcasm and
> a general disdain for a classic dumbass-kills-saw types.
>
> Thanks,
> Dan
Test the run/start capacitor.
Dave
Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com
"Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi all,
>
> Yesterday afternoon I was running a board through my direct drive table
> saw, an older 10" Delta model. Half way through the board (I was probably
> trying to run it through a *little* too fast), the blade stopped and the
> reset switch popped. Stupid me reset it, tried again (everything powered
> up normally) and after a bit more cutting it happened again. Now every
> time I start the saw the blade begins spinning, but it doesn't sound (or
> look) like it's running at full power. She feels like she's revving up to
> get up to speed, but once it nears that point the reset switch always
> pops. I've tried leaving it for 15 minutes, an hour, etc, before trying it
> again, always with the same result.
>
> I opened up the power box connected to the switch and reset button and
> gave it a good clean out - very dirty. I also tool the air compressor to
> the motor and gave it a good blow out (didn't disassemble it, though).
> I've tried connecting it directly to the outlet (to eliminate the
> extension cord), no luck (I am on 220 service).
>
> I'm a little lost and wondering if there's something I might be missing in
> trying to get this sorted. Is it possibly a capacitor problem? The saw is
> old, but was running perfectly well until I took it to stupid village
> yesterday. I personally don't think it's the motor, but then what the hell
> do I know. The inside of the electrical connection box gave off what I
> considered to be a slightly funny smell when the second reset happened, so
> that leads me to believe it may be the source of the problem. The
> connections in there are pretty grubby, but I haven't tested it all yet
> (any advice for the electronically impaired here so that I can do it
> right?).
>
> Please, Obi-wans of woodworking, you're my only hope.
>
> Any advice or insight appreciated, including those laced with sarcasm and
> a general disdain for a classic dumbass-kills-saw types.
>
> Thanks,
> Dan
>
The saw must be very old because all current direct drive saws run on 110
only.
However, possible reasons are:
Weakened overload breaker on the saw. Every time one of these things trip,
they get a little weaker.
Weakend circuit breaker in the house for the same reason.
Bad switch (burned contacts, etc.)
Since current direct drive saws use what is called a universal motor, these
items could be suspect. Note that it would be quite easy to spend more on
fixing the old one than a new one would cost.
Bad field winding
Bad armature
Perhaps brushes although I consider this unlikely. Besides, brushes are a
user replaceable item.
Your best bet is to take the motor to a repair place.
Jim
On Mon, 19 Jun 2006 09:38:03 -0400, "Dan" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>Yesterday afternoon I was running a board through my direct drive table saw,
>an older 10" Delta model. Half way through the board (I was probably trying
>to run it through a *little* too fast), the blade stopped and the reset
>switch popped. Stupid me reset it, tried again (everything powered up
>normally) and after a bit more cutting it happened again. Now every time I
>start the saw the blade begins spinning, but it doesn't sound (or look) like
>it's running at full power. She feels like she's revving up to get up to
>speed, but once it nears that point the reset switch always pops. I've tried
>leaving it for 15 minutes, an hour, etc, before trying it again, always with
>the same result.
>
>I opened up the power box connected to the switch and reset button and gave
>it a good clean out - very dirty. I also tool the air compressor to the
>motor and gave it a good blow out (didn't disassemble it, though). I've
>tried connecting it directly to the outlet (to eliminate the extension
>cord), no luck (I am on 220 service).
>
>I'm a little lost and wondering if there's something I might be missing in
>trying to get this sorted. Is it possibly a capacitor problem? The saw is
>old, but was running perfectly well until I took it to stupid village
>yesterday. I personally don't think it's the motor, but then what the hell
>do I know. The inside of the electrical connection box gave off what I
>considered to be a slightly funny smell when the second reset happened, so
>that leads me to believe it may be the source of the problem. The
>connections in there are pretty grubby, but I haven't tested it all yet (any
>advice for the electronically impaired here so that I can do it right?).
>
>Please, Obi-wans of woodworking, you're my only hope.
>
>Any advice or insight appreciated, including those laced with sarcasm and a
>general disdain for a classic dumbass-kills-saw types.
>
>Thanks,
>Dan
>
Direct Drive? 220V? What exactly is the model number for this table
saw?
Frank
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> "Frank" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> RayV wrote:
>>> Hey, breaking a tool happens to everyone. The place you are screwing
>>> up is trying to fix it. This is a perfect opportunity to buy a new
>>> tool.
>>
>> Thats just silly. If a good tool can be repaired for a reasonable
>> cost, why waste money and throw out what could be a perfectly good tool
>>
>
> But it is NOT a perfectly good tool. It is a direct drive undersized, under
> powered saw and now it is broken. I agree with Ray V. Time to upgrade.
Eggzactly! The OP has proven two things: 1) he uses the tool and 2)
his needs are not met by the tool which he had.
Assuming he's going to continue to use that type of tool, why would he
repair a mediocre P.O.S. that crapped out on him. Unless he was trying
to cut iron pipe with the saw, it's time he got a REAL saw.<g>
Not sure how this is phrased but I believe the above to be a corollary
to the "one project, one new tool" line I've been feeding my better half
for all these years.
The brushes could be worn down it it's had a lot of use, or the commutator
could be badly pitted from eating sawdust. You can look at and probably
remove the brushes. They should be farily smooth on the ends that touch the
commutator (shiny copper bit) and the commutator should be somewhat coppery
looking, although some darkening is common. The brushes should seat on the
commutator and be free to move in their holders.
Wilson
"Jim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Yesterday afternoon I was running a board through my direct drive table
>> saw, an older 10" Delta model. Half way through the board (I was probably
>> trying to run it through a *little* too fast), the blade stopped and the
>> reset switch popped. Stupid me reset it, tried again (everything powered
>> up normally) and after a bit more cutting it happened again. Now every
>> time I start the saw the blade begins spinning, but it doesn't sound (or
>> look) like it's running at full power. She feels like she's revving up to
>> get up to speed, but once it nears that point the reset switch always
>> pops. I've tried leaving it for 15 minutes, an hour, etc, before trying
>> it again, always with the same result.
>>
>> I opened up the power box connected to the switch and reset button and
>> gave it a good clean out - very dirty. I also tool the air compressor to
>> the motor and gave it a good blow out (didn't disassemble it, though).
>> I've tried connecting it directly to the outlet (to eliminate the
>> extension cord), no luck (I am on 220 service).
>>
>> I'm a little lost and wondering if there's something I might be missing
>> in trying to get this sorted. Is it possibly a capacitor problem? The saw
>> is old, but was running perfectly well until I took it to stupid village
>> yesterday. I personally don't think it's the motor, but then what the
>> hell do I know. The inside of the electrical connection box gave off what
>> I considered to be a slightly funny smell when the second reset happened,
>> so that leads me to believe it may be the source of the problem. The
>> connections in there are pretty grubby, but I haven't tested it all yet
>> (any advice for the electronically impaired here so that I can do it
>> right?).
>>
>> Please, Obi-wans of woodworking, you're my only hope.
>>
>> Any advice or insight appreciated, including those laced with sarcasm and
>> a general disdain for a classic dumbass-kills-saw types.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Dan
>>
> The saw must be very old because all current direct drive saws run on 110
> only.
> However, possible reasons are:
>
> Weakened overload breaker on the saw. Every time one of these things
> trip, they get a little weaker.
>
> Weakend circuit breaker in the house for the same reason.
>
> Bad switch (burned contacts, etc.)
>
> Since current direct drive saws use what is called a universal motor,
> these items could be suspect. Note that it would be quite easy to spend
> more on fixing the old one than a new one would cost.
>
> Bad field winding
> Bad armature
> Perhaps brushes although I consider this unlikely. Besides, brushes are a
> user replaceable item.
>
> Your best bet is to take the motor to a repair place.
>
> Jim
>
"Frank" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> RayV wrote:
>> Hey, breaking a tool happens to everyone. The place you are screwing
>> up is trying to fix it. This is a perfect opportunity to buy a new
>> tool.
>
>
> Thats just silly. If a good tool can be repaired for a reasonable
> cost, why waste money and throw out what could be a perfectly good tool
>
But it is NOT a perfectly good tool. It is a direct drive undersized, under
powered saw and now it is broken. I agree with Ray V. Time to upgrade.
"Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi all,
>
<snip>
> Any advice or insight appreciated, including those laced with sarcasm and
> a general disdain for a classic dumbass-kills-saw types.
>
> Thanks,
> Dan
I'm no electrician and don't play one on TV but given your situation I'd
give an electric motor repair shop a call. I know it will be a huge pain if
you need to remove the motor but it's sounding like you toasted something
inside during the overload(s). I hope that you get a more knowledgeable
response than mine!!