I cross-posted it as I look for my favourite experts in both groups.
I'll never do it again... promise.
I have been asked to re and re an eight-foot T&G board
(pine/spruce/hart-to-tell) from in behind some serious crown-moulding.
The board is 10" wide 1-by. It is split vertically, hence the
home-owners desire to replace it with a board salvaged from another part
of the house. Removing the old board, up-to where it goes behind the
crown-moulding isn't a problem... getting the rest out from behind the
moulding, (a combination wood-trim and plaster 6" 45-degree spring angle
contraption), is daunting. The proverbial can-o-worms is just waiting
for me there.
Here's my question: do I leave a stub of, say..16" then attach a block
and whack it downward, hoping the nails will let go via the end-grain or
do I try to sneak between two pieces of the assembled crown-moulding
with a thin Multimaster blade and cut the board closer to the top, then
to slide the new board into the slot. All I need is the 1 1/2" the
little moulding allows me to hide the new seam. Will the Multimaster cut
1" thick soft-wood across the grain? The thin-ness of the blades appeal
to me more so than the rough-and-tumble saws-all, or even a choice of
ryoba or kataba (they don't plunge-cut worth a darn).
Much appreciated. The home-owners are fabulous people. After shooting a
laser-plane across one of the floors, I went under the house and drove
in a bunch of wedges to elevate the deepest parts up to the laser-line
and we decided to accept it as is... no build-ups.
(It had been a while since I swung a 10-pound sledge over-head, but the
physio has certainly paid off. God bless PT's.
r
I second that recommendation of the Fein. I use the flush cut blades
cross cutting 2x4 PTYP for my deck. I trimmed back the railing stock
to be flush with the posts. I was also using the mettal cutting
blades for a similar process of cutting nails to remove some misplaced
boards on my additon project. The Fein made its cost worthwhile in one
day.
Marc
While the MultiMaster is a really pricey tool, it can do some
things nothing else can do.
The blades are beyond ridiculous in price but will cut damn near
anything. Pine will prsent no problem with the smaller blade.
Do not hit any nails unless you wish to go buy another really
expensive blade.
This job was made for the MultiMaster....
Robatoy wrote:
> I cross-posted it as I look for my favourite experts in both groups.
> I'll never do it again... promise.
>
> I have been asked to re and re an eight-foot T&G board
> (pine/spruce/hart-to-tell) from in behind some serious crown-moulding.
> The board is 10" wide 1-by. It is split vertically, hence the
> home-owners desire to replace it with a board salvaged from another part
> of the house. Removing the old board, up-to where it goes behind the
> crown-moulding isn't a problem... getting the rest out from behind the
> moulding, (a combination wood-trim and plaster 6" 45-degree spring angle
> contraption), is daunting. The proverbial can-o-worms is just waiting
> for me there.
>
> Here's my question: do I leave a stub of, say..16" then attach a block
> and whack it downward, hoping the nails will let go via the end-grain or
> do I try to sneak between two pieces of the assembled crown-moulding
> with a thin Multimaster blade and cut the board closer to the top, then
> to slide the new board into the slot. All I need is the 1 1/2" the
> little moulding allows me to hide the new seam. Will the Multimaster cut
> 1" thick soft-wood across the grain? The thin-ness of the blades appeal
> to me more so than the rough-and-tumble saws-all, or even a choice of
> ryoba or kataba (they don't plunge-cut worth a darn).
>
> Much appreciated. The home-owners are fabulous people. After shooting a
> laser-plane across one of the floors, I went under the house and drove
> in a bunch of wedges to elevate the deepest parts up to the laser-line
> and we decided to accept it as is... no build-ups.
> (It had been a while since I swung a 10-pound sledge over-head, but the
> physio has certainly paid off. God bless PT's.
>
> r
I'm not Lew, but...
(snip of above stuff...)
> Will the Multimaster cut
> 1" thick soft-wood across the grain? The thin-ness of the blades appeal
> to me more so than the rough-and-tumble saws-all, or even a choice of
> ryoba or kataba (they don't plunge-cut worth a darn).
No problem there. The Multimaster will cut 1" oak across the grain,
with the right blade, either as a plunge cut or an open, unconstrained cut.
The blade to use is the blue-steel, slightly tapered one that's about 1.5"
wide at
the business end. Take it slow and watch heat build-up, and you'll be fine.
Bring a couple, because if you hit a nail, it's trashed. 3 for $100 at
retail shops,
but worth every penny if you need it.
"Chip"
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I cross-posted it as I look for my favourite experts in both groups.
> I'll never do it again... promise.
>
> I have been asked to re and re an eight-foot T&G board
> (pine/spruce/hart-to-tell) from in behind some serious crown-moulding.
> The board is 10" wide 1-by. It is split vertically, hence the
> home-owners desire to replace it with a board salvaged from another part
> of the house. Removing the old board, up-to where it goes behind the
> crown-moulding isn't a problem... getting the rest out from behind the
> moulding, (a combination wood-trim and plaster 6" 45-degree spring angle
> contraption), is daunting. The proverbial can-o-worms is just waiting
> for me there.
> snipe....
Another approach to consider and one I've used on my niece's house rehab. I
used a Makita right angle drill and a couple of cheap 3/4" Forstner bits to
drill out the depth I needed behind some trim when I was installing the
French door set I made. You would need 1" bits.
I was going to just use a chisel and chop out the waste (like making a
mortise) but then I realized I brought that drill with me and the "cheapo"
bits. I did hit some trim nails and it did ruin the bits but a hand-held
hacksaw blade made short work of them.
Bob S.