"Duane Bozarth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK, so I exaggerated... :) I don't much care for the stuff so I got
> carried away--don't suppose you could tell, though! :)
Well I can attest that it is a product that requires more attention. LOL
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I dare say that after tens of thousands of biscuits in my last 30 years
> on some very demanding surfaces, I have yet to see this magical
> phenomena of 'pits'.
> I can see the theory behind it, just never seen it.
> Maybe it's because I use Lamello biscuits only and their adhesive
> 'MiniCol' dispenser and that just lays a small bead on both side-walls
> of the groove. I never saw the point of soaking the whole operation.
I doubt that it is the Lamello biscuits that keep you from seeing this
divots. I have only used probably 3 or 4 thousand biscuits and have not
seen this divot appear either after planing. I can really only see this
happening if you are cutting slots in soft and thin material. For the most
part I use 3/4" hard wood stock and had never heard of the problem until
mentioned in this news group. The notion that biscuits are for alignment
and they do not add strength to a joint is BS also. I will admit that they
are over used in situations that they probably add little strength but when
gluing solid stock to the edge to plywood stock you better believe that they
add strength. ;~)
I once called up Franklin Glue to ask about that glue line ridge that
pops up after a week or three (which is another whole thread). I also
asked them about the difference between the yellow and the PU glues.
They told me about an experiment they did. They laminated up layers of
wood to make baseball bats, using both types of glues. The yellow glue
held up, and the PU delaminated every time. Guess what I use on my
furniture?
robo hippy
HMFIC-1369 wrote:
> I could never get the Elmers off, and the work wasn't as strong, but the
> Gorilla Glue washes off fine!
> I left a small amount in the package open thinking I had more. When I
> couldn't find it I twisted off the cap and removed the film with my finger
> and applied it that way and washed it off... If that was the Elmers, I'd
> have some ugly looking hands for a few weeks!
>
>
>
> "Lawrence Wasserman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > In article <[email protected]>,
> > GrayFox <[email protected]> wrote:
> > >I've never used Gorilla Glue. I have a couple of questions.
> > >
> > >1. Is Gorilla Glue gap filling?
> > >
> > >2. Can you use Gorilla Glue for biscuit joints?
> > >
> > >3. I'd also be interested in anyone's comments and/or warnings.
> > >
> > >Thanks.
> >
> > I've used Gorilla as well as Elmer's polyurethane glue for several
> > outdoor projects. While the glue does foam up to fill small gaps, the
> > foam is not structually strong. It is not "gap filling" the way epoxy
> > is.
> >
> > It works fine with biscuit joints. I always breifly dip the biscuits
> > in water before inserting them in the slots, I saw this recommended
> > somewhere but perhaps it is not really necessary.
> >
> > It's a good idea to wear nitrile gloves when using poly glue, the
> > stains on your skin will last several days and are (nearly?)
> > impossible to wash off any sooner. IME the Elmer's brand is better
> > than Gorilla in this respect.
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
> > [email protected]
> >
The best thing I have found to clean your hands is.....................
Skin So Soft from Avon.
Did I really just say that on a Woodworking group.....arg!!!
And it can be use as Skeeter repellent......
No I don't go door to door and am not a lady either. Just a happy
user, just not a user in the normal sense of being a user......awwwwe
forget it.
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ummmm.... no, they don't "need to expand". Biscuits are principally for
> alignment, not structural strength, and as long as you get a snug fit in
> the
> slot, Gorilla Glue is just fine.
That is the popular view but from the books that factually address biscuits
alone they are indeed structural especially when used on 45 degree miters
and on end grain applications such as when attaching shelves with biscuits
to cabinet walls. They do indeed need to expand to make a solid and tight
contact.
Morris Dovey wrote:
>
> GrayFox (in [email protected])
> said:
>
> | I've never used Gorilla Glue. I have a couple of questions.
> |
> | 1. Is Gorilla Glue gap filling?
> Yes, when used as directed it foams and expands.
Leaving a bunch of air holes. It is not gap filling in the sense I
suspect OP means.
I would say the answer to the question is "no".
> | 2. Can you use Gorilla Glue for biscuit joints?
> I've never used it for that - but would suppose so.
Certainly? However, it's only real advantage is the waterproof result.
> | 3. I'd also be interested in anyone's comments and/or warnings.
> Cleans up nicely with paper towel and acetone.
Makes a hell of a mess and takes several hours clamping time to cure.
Will not work as a "slide 'n glide" joint w/o clamping for things like
corner blocks, etc., like white or yellow glues can.
Harder than a rock once dry so cleanup is a bitch. Having to use a
solvent is a pita (as compared to water).
Has no real advantage and many disadvantages other than for the
waterproof nature or for some oily woods such as teak, etc., which don't
work well w/ other types.
Three times the cost roughly of yellow aliphatic, roughly twice the cost
of Type III waterproof. Type II is in between Type I and III for cost.
GrayFox wrote:
> I've never used Gorilla Glue. I have a couple of questions.
>
> 1. Is Gorilla Glue gap filling?
It will fill the gap but won't provide strength through the gap - if
that makes any sense to you.
> 2. Can you use Gorilla Glue for biscuit joints?
It could and would hold quite well, I imagine. However, proper
application requires that you WET one side of the glue joint. What's
that going to do to your biscuit. I guess the answer to this one is MAYBE
> 3. I'd also be interested in anyone's comments and/or warnings.
Cost vs benefit vs ease of use - Don't think I'd be using it to glue up
panels. Any of the Tite-Bonds (or similar) would serve you as well and
cheaper.
Haven't tested this out yet but supposedly Gorilla Glue has a 180 day
shelf life after opening. I have had one open longer than that and it
still appears usable.
Can anyone comment on that?
Leon wrote:
>
> "Duane Bozarth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Morris Dovey wrote:
> > Makes a hell of a mess and takes several hours clamping time to cure.
> > Will not work as a "slide 'n glide" joint w/o clamping for things like
> > corner blocks, etc., like white or yellow glues can.
> >
> > Harder than a rock once dry so cleanup is a bitch. Having to use a
> > solvent is a pita (as compared to water).
>
> No Gorilla glue is not harder than a rock when dry. It is VERY Easily
> chiseled, scraped or sanded.
OK, so I exaggerated... :) I don't much care for the stuff so I got
carried away--don't suppose you could tell, though! :)
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> 2. Can you use Gorilla Glue for biscuit joints?
>
> Part of the attraction of using biscuits is that they are compressed
> mechanically during manufacture. Then the water in regular glues will
> expand them and form a tight joint. Only water-based white glues
> will make the cookies work like they should. Even the yellow won't work
> as well.
Red herring. The biscuits will get moisture from the wood and through the
wood from the atmosphere. Instant it ain't, effective it is. Saturation is
the fault most often mentioned. As the biscuit reduces again, you hope you
haven't surfaced, else you can get some pits.
In article <[email protected]>,
Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
<...snipped...>
>Speaking of soaking, back in the good old days you had to soak a red
>herring to make it edible. Before soaking, a red herring had the texture
>of wood (HA! HERE is the connection!?!?!?!) All the dictionaries and
>reference books I have consulted suggest that the metaphor grew up
>because a red herring was used, not to lay a scent, but to confuse one;
>in particular, Brewer (DAGS him) explicitly says that red herrings were
>used to confuse the hounds chasing a fox. But what that entry leaves
>unsaid is any clue to who was supposed to be laying this false trail, or
>why. It seems to suggest that an early group of hunt saboteurs were at
>work. Though there was much opposition to fox hunting in England from
>the beginning of the nineteenth century, for ethical reasons, this did
>not extend so far as I can discover to organised attempts to spoil a
>day¹s sport. There were cases of physical violence, true, but they were
>more likely to be by disgruntled farmers stoning hounds or assaulting
>huntsmen for crossing their land and spoiling the crops (a frequent
>source of discontent). In the half dozen books on aspects of the history
>of fox hunting I have searched out, there is not one reference to the
>use of a red herring to lay a false scent. Only in rec.woodworking does
>one sense the scent of fish sometimes, George.
Not you usual fish story.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 02:58:47 GMT, Dan <[email protected]> wrote:
>what do you use when you want a glue with a slower setup time?
Usually PVA for that sort of job. My general workbench glue is hot hide
glue - a lot of what I make is "repro". Although it has a quick "grab",
it's also workable for quite some time for minor adjustment.
For waterproof work it might be epoxy (not usually for timber though,
unless I'm filling cracks with it). More usually it's something
complicated and commercial that needs mixing beforehand - Cascamite or
similar.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> GrayFox wrote:
\
>
>
> IMHO, the stuff is strictly overpriced and under peckered.
>
> Lew
Classic, LMAO.
T
"GrayFox" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've never used Gorilla Glue. I have a couple of questions.
>
> 1. Is Gorilla Glue gap filling?
Yes absolutely it is. BUT is does not add any strength to the joint at that
point. This type glue foams and expands and will fill voids.
> 2. Can you use Gorilla Glue for biscuit joints?
Probably not a good idea as biscuits need to expand as does the wood that
you put the into. Gorilla glue does not have water in it but does cure
faster if water is added. The more water you use the more foaming you will
see and perhaps you will see a bigger mess.
>
> 3. I'd also be interested in anyone's comments and/or warnings.
Keep acetone handy to immediately remove the glue from you hands. Once
cured it has to wear off.
"HMFIC-1369" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:w4RTe.1352$yH2.1057@trnddc05...
>
>
> I could never get the Elmers off, and the work wasn't as strong, but the
> Gorilla Glue washes off fine!
> I left a small amount in the package open thinking I had more. When I
> couldn't find it I twisted off the cap and removed the film with my finger
> and applied it that way and washed it off... If that was the Elmers, I'd
> have some ugly looking hands for a few weeks!
I think you have that all backwards.
What's your choice in white glue?
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> GrayFox <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I've never used Gorilla Glue. I have a couple of questions.
> >
> > 1. Is Gorilla Glue gap filling?
>
> It fills the gap with a foamy version of itself, but has no strength
> that way.
> The stuff works really well when gluing aluminum to balsa wood
> >
> > 2. Can you use Gorilla Glue for biscuit joints?
>
> Part of the attraction of using biscuits is that they are compressed
> mechanically during manufacture. Then the water in regular glues will
> expand them and form a tight joint. Only water-based white glues
> will make the cookies work like they should. Even the yellow won't work
> as well.
> >
>
> Use white glue when you can, and clean up afterwards.... when that
> doesn't work, there's always WEST system epoxy..and with micro balloons,
> you can make them gap-filling.
>
> The whole glue business is full of marketing ideas; yellow, gorilla,
> waterproof, yadda, yadda, yadda.
>
> White PVA or WEST... the rest is just a waste of time.
> Oh... and propane powered Imperial adhesive for laminating and Lockweld
> 8215 for everything else ( see WEST).
"GrayFox" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've never used Gorilla Glue. I have a couple of questions.
>
> 1. Is Gorilla Glue gap filling? Yes!
>
> 2. Can you use Gorilla Glue for biscuit joints?
I wouldn't use it where I want a flush finish. it could expand enough to
screw it up
>
> 3. I'd also be interested in anyone's comments and/or warnings.
Don't use the cows brand! Gorilla appears to be the best of the best. It
still isn't an epoxy strength. Use it to augment screwed and glued joints.
Wouldn't use it for any type of lamination.
>
> Thanks.
> | 3. I'd also be interested in anyone's comments and/or warnings.
> Cleans up nicely with paper towel and acetone.
Not after it is dry... At least not the stuff I used on my motorcycle gas
tank... :)
Expansion... the stuff REALLY grows as it hardens...
--
Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
(908) 542-0244
http://www.AutoDrill.com
http://www.Multi-Drill.com
V8013-R
In article <[email protected]>,
Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"HMFIC-1369" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:w4RTe.1352$yH2.1057@trnddc05...
>>
>>
>> I could never get the Elmers off, and the work wasn't as strong, but the
>> Gorilla Glue washes off fine!
>> I left a small amount in the package open thinking I had more. When I
>> couldn't find it I twisted off the cap and removed the film with my finger
>> and applied it that way and washed it off... If that was the Elmers, I'd
>> have some ugly looking hands for a few weeks!
>
>I think you have that all backwards.
>
>
My experience also. Actually, neither brand washes off easily, but the
stains from Elmers glue are less noticeable (on my skin anyway) than the
stains from Gorilla glue.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
Robatoy wrote:
Then the water in regular glues will
> expand them and form a tight joint. Only water-based white glues
> will make the cookies work like they should. Even the yellow won't work
> as well.
>
>
I've never found yellow glue to be wanting for swelling up a bisquit.
It's got plenty of moisture in it. At least all the yellow glue's I've
used...
Dave
On Mon 05 Sep 2005 07:25:22p, Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote
in news:[email protected]:
> Avoid the stuff. Gorilla is reputedly one of the good ones, but I won't
> touch PU woodworking glues again.
>
Andy, what do you use when you want a glue with a slower setup time? Every
time David Marks is doing a complicated glueup he says use something with a
longer working time and it sure looks like a bottle of Gorilla glue he's
got there.
Unquestionably Confused <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
> Cost vs benefit vs ease of use - Don't think I'd be using it to glue
> up panels. Any of the Tite-Bonds (or similar) would serve you as well
> and cheaper.
>
> Haven't tested this out yet but supposedly Gorilla Glue has a 180 day
> shelf life after opening. I have had one open longer than that and it
> still appears usable.
>
> Can anyone comment on that?
>
I've had the poly glues from both Franklin (Titebond folks) and Probond
(Elmer's?) go hard in the bottle, and get tossed, before I used more than a
few ounces.
The only reason I buy this type at all is to glue the odd exotic...
Patriarch,
with maybe 8 or 9 variations of adhesives on the shop shelf, but Original
Titebond is the one I seem to reach for most.
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> "Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Andy, what do you use when you want a glue with a slower setup time?
>> Every time David Marks is doing a complicated glueup he says use
>> something with
> a
>> longer working time and it sure looks like a bottle of Gorilla glue
>> he's got there.
>>
> Nope. Plastic resin glue is what he calls it. Urea formaldehyde, I
> believe.
watch the wrap
http://www.djmarks.com/stories/faq/3
_Where_can_I_get_the_SlowSetting_Plastic_Resin_Glue_you_often_use_on_the_
46688.asp
Nope. Plastic resin glue is what he calls it. Urea formaldehyde, I believe.
"Dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Andy, what do you use when you want a glue with a slower setup time? Every
> time David Marks is doing a complicated glueup he says use something with
a
> longer working time and it sure looks like a bottle of Gorilla glue he's
> got there.
>
"ben" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> GrayFox wrote:
>> I've never used Gorilla Glue. I have a couple of questions.
>>
<snip>
> IMHO any glue that is in liquid form has a decent bonding but when it
> comes
> to glue there ain't nothing better than Horse glue(bones),where you have
> to
> melt it in a pot.
>
> Just my op. :-)
In other words, hide glue?
Tom
On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 01:13:05 -0500, Patriarch
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Unquestionably Confused <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
><snip>
>
>> Cost vs benefit vs ease of use - Don't think I'd be using it to glue
>> up panels. Any of the Tite-Bonds (or similar) would serve you as well
>> and cheaper.
>>
>> Haven't tested this out yet but supposedly Gorilla Glue has a 180 day
>> shelf life after opening. I have had one open longer than that and it
>> still appears usable.
>>
>> Can anyone comment on that?
>>
>
>I've had the poly glues from both Franklin (Titebond folks) and Probond
>(Elmer's?) go hard in the bottle, and get tossed, before I used more than a
>few ounces.
>
>The only reason I buy this type at all is to glue the odd exotic...
>
>Patriarch,
>with maybe 8 or 9 variations of adhesives on the shop shelf, but Original
>Titebond is the one I seem to reach for most.
I originally purchased Gorilla glue for use with melamine cabinets.
Quickly became disenchanted with its exhorbitant cost and laughingly
short shelf life.
Have since shifted to Roo Glue from Woodcraft. Excellent bonding
properties, long shelf life, and is used exactly as you would any
yellow glue. And did I mention that it's cheap?
In article <[email protected]>, "George" <George@least>
wrote:
> "Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >> 2. Can you use Gorilla Glue for biscuit joints?
> >
> > Part of the attraction of using biscuits is that they are compressed
> > mechanically during manufacture. Then the water in regular glues will
> > expand them and form a tight joint. Only water-based white glues
> > will make the cookies work like they should. Even the yellow won't work
> > as well.
>
> Red herring. The biscuits will get moisture from the wood and through the
> wood from the atmosphere. Instant it ain't, effective it is. Saturation is
> the fault most often mentioned. As the biscuit reduces again, you hope you
> haven't surfaced, else you can get some pits.
WTF does seafood have to do with this, huh? More on this inna minute.
I dare say that after tens of thousands of biscuits in my last 30 years
on some very demanding surfaces, I have yet to see this magical
phenomena of 'pits'.
I can see the theory behind it, just never seen it.
Maybe it's because I use Lamello biscuits only and their adhesive
'MiniCol' dispenser and that just lays a small bead on both side-walls
of the groove. I never saw the point of soaking the whole operation.
Speaking of soaking, back in the good old days you had to soak a red
herring to make it edible. Before soaking, a red herring had the texture
of wood (HA! HERE is the connection!?!?!?!) All the dictionaries and
reference books I have consulted suggest that the metaphor grew up
because a red herring was used, not to lay a scent, but to confuse one;
in particular, Brewer (DAGS him) explicitly says that red herrings were
used to confuse the hounds chasing a fox. But what that entry leaves
unsaid is any clue to who was supposed to be laying this false trail, or
why. It seems to suggest that an early group of hunt saboteurs were at
work. Though there was much opposition to fox hunting in England from
the beginning of the nineteenth century, for ethical reasons, this did
not extend so far as I can discover to organised attempts to spoil a
day¹s sport. There were cases of physical violence, true, but they were
more likely to be by disgruntled farmers stoning hounds or assaulting
huntsmen for crossing their land and spoiling the crops (a frequent
source of discontent). In the half dozen books on aspects of the history
of fox hunting I have searched out, there is not one reference to the
use of a red herring to lay a false scent. Only in rec.woodworking does
one sense the scent of fish sometimes, George.
In article <[email protected]>,
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> you better believe that they
> add strength.
I believe. I have tested. Even my BIL's fat ass hasn't busted any chairs
I built for him. In the right application, they add a tremendous amount
of strength.
In article <[email protected]>,
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
> What's your choice in white glue?
>
I usually buy LePage's.
In article <[email protected]>,
GrayFox <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've never used Gorilla Glue. I have a couple of questions.
>
> 1. Is Gorilla Glue gap filling?
It fills the gap with a foamy version of itself, but has no strength
that way.
The stuff works really well when gluing aluminum to balsa wood
>
> 2. Can you use Gorilla Glue for biscuit joints?
Part of the attraction of using biscuits is that they are compressed
mechanically during manufacture. Then the water in regular glues will
expand them and form a tight joint. Only water-based white glues
will make the cookies work like they should. Even the yellow won't work
as well.
>
Use white glue when you can, and clean up afterwards.... when that
doesn't work, there's always WEST system epoxy..and with micro balloons,
you can make them gap-filling.
The whole glue business is full of marketing ideas; yellow, gorilla,
waterproof, yadda, yadda, yadda.
White PVA or WEST... the rest is just a waste of time.
Oh... and propane powered Imperial adhesive for laminating and Lockweld
8215 for everything else ( see WEST).
On Mon, 05 Sep 2005 16:31:40 -0500, GrayFox <[email protected]> wrote:
>I've never used Gorilla Glue.
Then don't waste your money. I've never made _anything_ with PU glue
where I haven't regretted it afterwards, usually a year or two later
when the joint fails.
>1. Is Gorilla Glue gap filling?
No. it fills them, but there's no strength.
>2. Can you use Gorilla Glue for biscuit joints?
No. It would be a real nuisance to assemble and the lack of water would
fail to swell the biscuits adequately.
>3. I'd also be interested in anyone's comments and/or warnings.
Avoid the stuff. Gorilla is reputedly one of the good ones, but I won't
touch PU woodworking glues again.
In article <[email protected]>,
GrayFox <[email protected]> wrote:
>I've never used Gorilla Glue. I have a couple of questions.
>
>1. Is Gorilla Glue gap filling?
>
>2. Can you use Gorilla Glue for biscuit joints?
>
>3. I'd also be interested in anyone's comments and/or warnings.
>
>Thanks.
I've used Gorilla as well as Elmer's polyurethane glue for several
outdoor projects. While the glue does foam up to fill small gaps, the
foam is not structually strong. It is not "gap filling" the way epoxy
is.
It works fine with biscuit joints. I always breifly dip the biscuits
in water before inserting them in the slots, I saw this recommended
somewhere but perhaps it is not really necessary.
It's a good idea to wear nitrile gloves when using poly glue, the
stains on your skin will last several days and are (nearly?)
impossible to wash off any sooner. IME the Elmer's brand is better
than Gorilla in this respect.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
"Duane Bozarth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Morris Dovey wrote:
> Makes a hell of a mess and takes several hours clamping time to cure.
> Will not work as a "slide 'n glide" joint w/o clamping for things like
> corner blocks, etc., like white or yellow glues can.
>
> Harder than a rock once dry so cleanup is a bitch. Having to use a
> solvent is a pita (as compared to water).
No Gorilla glue is not harder than a rock when dry. It is VERY Easily
chiseled, scraped or sanded.
Thank you.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > What's your choice in white glue?
> >
> I usually buy LePage's.
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>
> I've never found yellow glue to be wanting for swelling up a bisquit. It's
> got plenty of moisture in it. At least all the yellow glue's I've used...
FWIW I have an old Lamello Glue dispenser that injects measured amounts of
glue into biscuit slots. The instructions indicated to use a White glue as
it tends to give more working time when putzing with biscuits. That said
because this dispenser is more for production runs I do not use it unless
putting in 150+ biscuits on a job. I typically squirt a dab of yellow out
of the original glue bottle into the slot for small jobs.
In article <[email protected]>, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"GrayFox" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> 2. Can you use Gorilla Glue for biscuit joints?
>
>Probably not a good idea as biscuits need to expand as does the wood that
>you put the into.
Ummmm.... no, they don't "need to expand". Biscuits are principally for
alignment, not structural strength, and as long as you get a snug fit in the
slot, Gorilla Glue is just fine. In fact, you can make a case for Gorilla Glue
being *superior* to PVA glues for biscuits, precisely because it does *not*
make them expand -- just read the occasional thread here about biscuit-shaped
*depressions* along a glue line (caused by sanding too soon after glue-up with
a water-based glue) to understand why.
>Gorilla glue does not have water in it but does cure
>faster if water is added. The more water you use the more foaming you will
>see and perhaps you will see a bigger mess.
Unless you live in an _extremely_ arid climate, there's enough moisture
present in the wood already for Gorilla Glue to cure, without need of adding
any more.
>> 3. I'd also be interested in anyone's comments and/or warnings.
>
>Keep acetone handy to immediately remove the glue from you hands. Once
>cured it has to wear off.
Paint thinner (mineral spirits) works, too, and it's a lot cheaper than
acetone.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
I could never get the Elmers off, and the work wasn't as strong, but the
Gorilla Glue washes off fine!
I left a small amount in the package open thinking I had more. When I
couldn't find it I twisted off the cap and removed the film with my finger
and applied it that way and washed it off... If that was the Elmers, I'd
have some ugly looking hands for a few weeks!
"Lawrence Wasserman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> GrayFox <[email protected]> wrote:
> >I've never used Gorilla Glue. I have a couple of questions.
> >
> >1. Is Gorilla Glue gap filling?
> >
> >2. Can you use Gorilla Glue for biscuit joints?
> >
> >3. I'd also be interested in anyone's comments and/or warnings.
> >
> >Thanks.
>
> I've used Gorilla as well as Elmer's polyurethane glue for several
> outdoor projects. While the glue does foam up to fill small gaps, the
> foam is not structually strong. It is not "gap filling" the way epoxy
> is.
>
> It works fine with biscuit joints. I always breifly dip the biscuits
> in water before inserting them in the slots, I saw this recommended
> somewhere but perhaps it is not really necessary.
>
> It's a good idea to wear nitrile gloves when using poly glue, the
> stains on your skin will last several days and are (nearly?)
> impossible to wash off any sooner. IME the Elmer's brand is better
> than Gorilla in this respect.
>
>
> --
>
> Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
> [email protected]
>
GrayFox (in [email protected])
said:
| I've never used Gorilla Glue. I have a couple of questions.
|
| 1. Is Gorilla Glue gap filling?
Yes, when used as directed it foams and expands.
| 2. Can you use Gorilla Glue for biscuit joints?
I've never used it for that - but would suppose so.
| 3. I'd also be interested in anyone's comments and/or warnings.
Cleans up nicely with paper towel and acetone.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html
This has been my experience too.
It helps some to store the opened bottle upside down
but it still goes bad before I get around to using it all.
I wish they would package it in a collapsible package,
like a toothpaste tube, to keep the air/humidity out.
Art
"Patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've had the poly glues from both Franklin (Titebond folks) and Probond
> (Elmer's?) go hard in the bottle, and get tossed, before I used more than a
> few ounces.
>
> The only reason I buy this type at all is to glue the odd exotic...
>
> Patriarch,
GrayFox wrote:
> I've never used Gorilla Glue. I have a couple of questions.
>
> 1. Is Gorilla Glue gap filling?
>
> 2. Can you use Gorilla Glue for biscuit joints?
>
> 3. I'd also be interested in anyone's comments and/or warnings.
>
> Thanks.
IMHO any glue that is in liquid form has a decent bonding but when it comes
to glue there ain't nothing better than Horse glue(bones),where you have to
melt it in a pot.
Just my op. :-)