If anyone is looking for one...
I am selling a new material removal gauge for portable planers on ebay.
I find them indispensible. I made one from a bent spring years ago
that I used all the time. I made one that looks better and is more
accurate and decided others might be interested.
item # 160025731230
Yes, it is a non problem. You stated yourself that the gage is not an
absolute, just an indication of how much you are taking off each pass. The
screw will do that and go one better. It will let you set an absolute value.
"eganders" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> CW wrote:
> > A device to fix a non problem. The planer is adjusted by a screw.
Measure
> > the TPI (threads per inch) of the screw. You now know how far it moves
in
> > one revolution.
> >
> >
> Not really a non-problem.
J T wrote:
>
> OK, seeing as how mine has that very same feature, alleady bult in,
> telll in, keep on trying to convince me why I should buy one of these
> gimmicks from you.
>
>
>
> JOAT
> Justice was invented by the innocent.
> Mercy and lawyers were invented by the guilty.
You would be stupid to buy one from me. Don't do it!!
Fri, Sep 1, 2006, 4:19pm (EDT-3) [email protected] (eganders) doth
offer for sale:
The wood surface hits a sheetmetal foot that is part of the
circumference of a cylindar which rotates and has a scale on it. You
have graduations from 1/64 through 3/16 on the cylindar circumferance.
OK, seeing as how mine has that very same feature, alleady bult in,
telll in, keep on trying to convince me why I should buy one of these
gimmicks from you.
JOAT
Justice was invented by the innocent.
Mercy and lawyers were invented by the guilty.
Torgeaa wrote:
> "eganders" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > Tom H wrote:
> >> How does it work?
> >> > item # 160025731230
> >> >
> > The wood surface hits a sheetmetal foot that is part of the
> > circumference of a cylindar which rotates and has a scale on it. You
> > have graduations from 1/64 through 3/16 on the cylindar circumferance.
>
> what about mm graduations? do you supply those?
Keep in mind that this is a gauge just to indicate how much you are
removing in each pass, not the present thickness of the board.
Therefore you are usually looking for a consistant amount, say 1/16
inch of wood to be removed in each pass. My old indicator was a spring
that I just wanted to ensure rose up a set amount in each pass. It has
no scale at all. I was just looking for a certain amount of movement
so I could tell how much the planer was going to remove each time I
changed the height. This is a much improved method, but not intended
to have dual scales or anything like that.
CW wrote:
> A device to fix a non problem. The planer is adjusted by a screw. Measure
> the TPI (threads per inch) of the screw. You now know how far it moves in
> one revolution.
>
>
Not really a non-problem. First of all, there are many planers that
have this solution to the "non-problem". See Joat's comment below.
Also, when you first start planing the wood, it is hard to know how
much you are going to take off on the first pass. If you are planing a
number of pieces of wood and each one starts at a different thickness
you will have to have the planer ajusted at a different starting level
for each one. This device makes it easy to determine that level.
Also, it is comforting to have this gauge show you the thickness you
are going to take off each time. Of course after the first pass, you
can use the amount of crank to determine the amount of removal for each
subsequent pass, it is just a nice additional way to confirm that
amount.
This may not peak the interest of every woodworker, and that is why I
am checking out the interest. Who knows, maybe it is limited.
Sun, Sep 3, 2006, 7:37pm (EDT-3) [email protected] (eganders) doth
sayeth something:
Not really a non-problem. <snip>
Also, when you first start planing the wood, it is hard to know how much
you are going to take off on the first pass. If you are planing a number
of pieces of wood and each one starts at a different thickness you will
have to have the planer ajusted at a different starting level for each
one. <snip>
Yep, a non-problem far as I'm still concerned. Dunno what the rest
here do, but this is how I do it. My planer's got a scale, but I don't
use it. Dunno if it's accurate, wouldn't use it anyway. I just
crank.down, till ijust barely touching the wood, then start shoving it
thru, cranking down a bit each pass, then measure the wood when it
starts looking close to what I want, measure each pass until it's what I
want. Quick, simple, accurate. If I'm planing more than one piece,
doesn't matter if they're different thicknesses or not, if they're close
to the same. Damned if I'd be adjusting some gimmick for each piece
just because of that. I just start with the thickest, then run the
others after it, crank down a bit, repeat, until I get all of them being
planed. See above on measuring. No prob. And, just for general
information, I'd be measuring the wood thickness, even if I knew for a
fact the scale was 100% accurate. Always the chance it might get
knocked off plumb. No prob.
JOAT
Laundry room - drop your pants here.
How does it work?
"eganders" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If anyone is looking for one...
> I am selling a new material removal gauge for portable planers on ebay.
> I find them indispensible. I made one from a bent spring years ago
> that I used all the time. I made one that looks better and is more
> accurate and decided others might be interested.
>
> item # 160025731230
>
"eganders" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Tom H wrote:
>> How does it work?
>> > item # 160025731230
>> >
> The wood surface hits a sheetmetal foot that is part of the
> circumference of a cylindar which rotates and has a scale on it. You
> have graduations from 1/64 through 3/16 on the cylindar circumferance.
what about mm graduations? do you supply those?
A device to fix a non problem. The planer is adjusted by a screw. Measure
the TPI (threads per inch) of the screw. You now know how far it moves in
one revolution.
"eganders" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Keep in mind that this is a gauge just to indicate how much you are
> removing in each pass, not the present thickness of the board.
> Therefore you are usually looking for a consistant amount, say 1/16
> inch of wood to be removed in each pass. My old indicator was a spring
> that I just wanted to ensure rose up a set amount in each pass. It has
> no scale at all. I was just looking for a certain amount of movement
> so I could tell how much the planer was going to remove each time I
> changed the height. This is a much improved method, but not intended
> to have dual scales or anything like that.
>
On 3 Sep 2006 19:37:30 -0700, "eganders" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Also, when you first start planing the wood, it is hard to know how
>much you are going to take off on the first pass. If you are planing a
>number of pieces of wood and each one starts at a different thickness
>you will have to have the planer ajusted at a different starting level
>for each one. This device makes it easy to determine that level.
This only needs to be figured once, for the thickest board. After
that, the operator simply feeds all the boards through until they are
uniform, or the planer hits a limiting stop. If a board is too thin
to feed, it skips passes until it feeds. There is no need to
recalculate for each board. A set of simple $5 4" brass slide
calipers work great for measuring final thickness.
To set up the first board, I simply lower the carriage until it ever
so slightly grabs the board. All of this is so quick and easy, I
probably wouldn't even be inclined to go to the roll-away and look for
the device. <G>
That said, there's LOTS of woodworking do-dads on the market that _I_
think are silly wastes of money, but others happily buy. I say go for
it!