A while ago, I upgraded from the (much maligned here on the wreck)
BT-3000 to a Unisaw. In most aspects, I'm happy with the new saw but
dust collection is a disaster. With the BT-3000, a shopvac stuck on
the back caught 99% of the dust.
I've got a 650 CFM dust collector connected to the collection port on
the back of the Unisaw, which does almost no good. Looking at the
cabinet of the saw, it's easy to see why; there's so many huge holes
in the cabinet for air leaks.
I've taken off the factory guard, so I can seal up the annular slot in
the back where the guard mounting bar used to stick out of. Various
other small bolt holes will be easy to seal up too. The big problem
is the annular slot in the front where the blade elevating shaft comes
out. I can't seal that without disabling the blade tilt mechanism.
I'm willing to invest in a better dust collector (I'm leaning towards
the 2 HP woodsucker cyclone, http://www.woodsucker.com/), but I
suspect there's not much point if I can't figure out how to
significantly improve the airflow in the cabinet. How have other
people dealt with this problem?
> I'm willing to invest in a better dust collector (I'm leaning towards
> the 2 HP woodsucker cyclone, http://www.woodsucker.com/), but I
> suspect there's not much point if I can't figure out how to
> significantly improve the airflow in the cabinet. How have other
> people dealt with this problem?
Try plugging some of the holes using a few pieces of magnetic sheeting. You
can probably get some scraps for cheap at a sign shop. They'll slide out of
the way when you need to make some tilt and elevation adjustments. You can
achieve similar results with magnets and some thin scraps. Not the most
elegant of solutions but it'll do in a pinch.
"Lawrence L'Hote" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:DVPqd.486133$D%.20669@attbi_s51...
>
> >
> > Plugging all of the holes isn't going to help this and it's going to
> > defeat the emptying of the cabinet base too. You need air flow to
> > clear the cabinet and an over-blade collection device to catch the
> > other stuff.
>
> Wes is right on target. I suggest you NOT use a zero-clearance plate
unless
> you need the additional support. I found removing the plate completely
> when I use my cross-cut sled, box joint jig or tenon jig does a better job
> of clearing the above-table dust...YMMV. The Unisaw folks just did not
take
> the time IMHO to design the plenum beneath the table to clear dust
> efficiently. You should open the door and blow/suck out the motor housing
> on a regular basis, anyhow.
> Larry
> --
> Lawrence L'Hote
> Columbia, MO
> http://home.mchsi.com/~larrylhote
>
>
I agree. I have a Delta contractor saw. I leave the back completely open,
all around the underside of the table is open too. Certainly more open space
than your Unisaw has. I am quite satisfied with the dust collection, 'cept
for the dust that blows out above the blade. The under table collection will
do little for the dust blown over the top.
Sounds to me that you need an over arm collector.
Greg
On Mon, 29 Nov 2004 11:35:10 -0700, Roy Smith wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
> A while ago, I upgraded from the (much maligned here on the wreck)
> BT-3000 to a Unisaw. In most aspects, I'm happy with the new saw but
> dust collection is a disaster. With the BT-3000, a shopvac stuck on
> the back caught 99% of the dust.
>
> I've got a 650 CFM dust collector connected to the collection port on
> the back of the Unisaw, which does almost no good. Looking at the
> cabinet of the saw, it's easy to see why; there's so many huge holes
> in the cabinet for air leaks.
>
> I've taken off the factory guard, so I can seal up the annular slot in
> the back where the guard mounting bar used to stick out of. Various
> other small bolt holes will be easy to seal up too. The big problem
> is the annular slot in the front where the blade elevating shaft comes
> out. I can't seal that without disabling the blade tilt mechanism.
>
> I'm willing to invest in a better dust collector (I'm leaning towards
> the 2 HP woodsucker cyclone, http://www.woodsucker.com/), but I
> suspect there's not much point if I can't figure out how to
> significantly improve the airflow in the cabinet. How have other
> people dealt with this problem?
I have the 2hp Woodsucker on my Unisaw, works great :^)
Try some magnetic sheet (used for removable car door signs and refridge
magnets.
-Bruce
"Roy Smith" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm willing to invest in a better dust collector (I'm leaning towards
> the 2 HP woodsucker cyclone, http://www.woodsucker.com/), but I
> suspect there's not much point if I can't figure out how to
> significantly improve the airflow in the cabinet. How have other
> people dealt with this problem?
First of all, don't spend a dime on further commercial collection solutions
until you've prototyped and tested some of the concepts you want to apply.
If you think your cabinet has too many holes, then just temporarily stuff
'em with rolled up shop rags and such to see if closing the holes will do
any good. You have to have some holes to allow air to move.
When you say "its a disaster" what are you talking about? Is dust stacking
up inside the cabinet? Are you getting too much dust above the table?
Cabinet collection does virtually nothing for dust above the table. How are
you connecting from your dust collector to the Unisaw? If you are using the
super flexible duct hose (akin to a clothes dryer connection, you are
probably degrading your collection efficiency significantly.
You will be sorely disappointed if the only approach you take is to just
throw horsepower at it. Having said that, a table saw probably requires
more air volume flow, split between the cabinet and blade collection points
than any other power tool.
Bob
On 29 Nov 2004 16:03:48 -0500, [email protected] (Roy Smith) wrote:
|Bob <[email protected]> wrote:
|> When you say "its a disaster" what are you talking about? Is dust
|> stacking up inside the cabinet? Are you getting too much dust above
|> the table?
|
|Well, both, but it's the stuff that flies up into the air above the
|table that bothers me the most.
That "stuff" is thrown up by the blade and if you have a
zero-clearance insert (you do don't you?) there ain't nuthin' going to
suck that stuff back into the cabinet.
Plugging all of the holes isn't going to help this and it's going to
defeat the emptying of the cabinet base too. You need air flow to
clear the cabinet and an over-blade collection device to catch the
other stuff.
I better dust collector won't do it. We bought sheet magnetic strips to put
over the front slot for the angle adjust and caulked around the top and
sealed all of the holes. The last step was an over the blade guard to catch
the airborne dust.
max
> A while ago, I upgraded from the (much maligned here on the wreck)
> BT-3000 to a Unisaw. In most aspects, I'm happy with the new saw but
> dust collection is a disaster. With the BT-3000, a shopvac stuck on
> the back caught 99% of the dust.
>
> I've got a 650 CFM dust collector connected to the collection port on
> the back of the Unisaw, which does almost no good. Looking at the
> cabinet of the saw, it's easy to see why; there's so many huge holes
> in the cabinet for air leaks.
>
> I've taken off the factory guard, so I can seal up the annular slot in
> the back where the guard mounting bar used to stick out of. Various
> other small bolt holes will be easy to seal up too. The big problem
> is the annular slot in the front where the blade elevating shaft comes
> out. I can't seal that without disabling the blade tilt mechanism.
>
> I'm willing to invest in a better dust collector (I'm leaning towards
> the 2 HP woodsucker cyclone, http://www.woodsucker.com/), but I
> suspect there's not much point if I can't figure out how to
> significantly improve the airflow in the cabinet. How have other
> people dealt with this problem?
There is a sheet metal ledge in the bottom of the older unisaw cabinets
where it meets the flanged part of the base. I fit a piece of masonite on to
the ledge which brings the floor of the cab closer to the dc port. The floor
was almost clean all of the time. I actually tilted it so the dust slid
towards the port. Fitting the piece in at an angle is fun.
max
>
>>
>> When you say "its a disaster" what are you talking about? Is dust stacking
>> up inside the cabinet? Are you getting too much dust above the table?
>> Cabinet collection does virtually nothing for dust above the table. How are
>> you connecting from your dust collector to the Unisaw? If you are using the
>> super flexible duct hose (akin to a clothes dryer connection, you are
>> probably degrading your collection efficiency significantly.
>>
>> You will be sorely disappointed if the only approach you take is to just
>> throw horsepower at it. Having said that, a table saw probably requires
>> more air volume flow, split between the cabinet and blade collection points
>> than any other power tool.
>>
>> Bob
>>
> ======================
> Well I do not own a Unisaw....BUT I have owned a Jet Cabinet saw for
> over 10 years now so maybe some of my thoughts will be of some help...
>
> You will NEVER get the inside of the cabinet to be completely clean..
> Heck mine always has a couple of inches of sawdust on the bottom right
> up to the Bottom of the 4 inch DC port in the base of the saw... Not a
> problem at all...
>
> I no longer seal the holes around the tilting mechanism etc... I did
> years ago and went overboard sealing all the air leaks and discovered
> I cut the amount of air inside the base way to much..In effect I was
> not trying to pull a vacuum ...really cut the air flow...
>
> I do agree that the on the type of hose and the number of "Y's" etc
> between the DC and the machines port make a major difference...
>
> Remember you are really trying to remove very small dust particles you
> are NOT attempting to remove LARGE sawdust particles ...
>
> Bob Griffiths
"Wes Stewart" <n7ws_@_yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 29 Nov 2004 16:03:48 -0500, [email protected] (Roy Smith) wrote:
>
> |Bob <[email protected]> wrote:
> |> When you say "its a disaster" what are you talking about? Is dust
> |> stacking up inside the cabinet? Are you getting too much dust above
> |> the table?
> |
> |Well, both, but it's the stuff that flies up into the air above the
> |table that bothers me the most.
>
> That "stuff" is thrown up by the blade and if you have a
> zero-clearance insert (you do don't you?) there ain't nuthin' going to
> suck that stuff back into the cabinet.
>
> Plugging all of the holes isn't going to help this and it's going to
> defeat the emptying of the cabinet base too. You need air flow to
> clear the cabinet and an over-blade collection device to catch the
> other stuff.
Wes is right on target. I suggest you NOT use a zero-clearance plate unless
you need the additional support. I found removing the plate completely
when I use my cross-cut sled, box joint jig or tenon jig does a better job
of clearing the above-table dust...YMMV. The Unisaw folks just did not take
the time IMHO to design the plenum beneath the table to clear dust
efficiently. You should open the door and blow/suck out the motor housing
on a regular basis, anyhow.
Larry
--
Lawrence L'Hote
Columbia, MO
http://home.mchsi.com/~larrylhote
In article <[email protected]>, mp <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I'm willing to invest in a better dust collector (I'm leaning towards
>> the 2 HP woodsucker cyclone, http://www.woodsucker.com/), but I
>> suspect there's not much point if I can't figure out how to
>> significantly improve the airflow in the cabinet. How have other
>> people dealt with this problem?
>
>
>Try plugging some of the holes using a few pieces of magnetic sheeting. You
>can probably get some scraps for cheap at a sign shop. They'll slide out of
>the way when you need to make some tilt and elevation adjustments. You can
>achieve similar results with magnets and some thin scraps. Not the most
>elegant of solutions but it'll do in a pinch.
Not elegant? It sounds cheap, quick, and probably quite effective.
Sure seems elegant to me. Thanks for the suggestion!
Bob <[email protected]> wrote:
> When you say "its a disaster" what are you talking about? Is dust
> stacking up inside the cabinet? Are you getting too much dust above
> the table?
Well, both, but it's the stuff that flies up into the air above the
table that bothers me the most.
>Cabinet collection does virtually nothing for dust above the table. How are
>you connecting from your dust collector to the Unisaw? If you are using the
>super flexible duct hose (akin to a clothes dryer connection, you are
>probably degrading your collection efficiency significantly.
About 2/3 of the system is 4" rigid metal duct, but the last 6 feet or
so is flexible hose.
>
>When you say "its a disaster" what are you talking about? Is dust stacking
>up inside the cabinet? Are you getting too much dust above the table?
>Cabinet collection does virtually nothing for dust above the table. How are
>you connecting from your dust collector to the Unisaw? If you are using the
>super flexible duct hose (akin to a clothes dryer connection, you are
>probably degrading your collection efficiency significantly.
>
>You will be sorely disappointed if the only approach you take is to just
>throw horsepower at it. Having said that, a table saw probably requires
>more air volume flow, split between the cabinet and blade collection points
>than any other power tool.
>
>Bob
>
======================
Well I do not own a Unisaw....BUT I have owned a Jet Cabinet saw for
over 10 years now so maybe some of my thoughts will be of some help...
You will NEVER get the inside of the cabinet to be completely clean..
Heck mine always has a couple of inches of sawdust on the bottom right
up to the Bottom of the 4 inch DC port in the base of the saw... Not a
problem at all...
I no longer seal the holes around the tilting mechanism etc... I did
years ago and went overboard sealing all the air leaks and discovered
I cut the amount of air inside the base way to much..In effect I was
not trying to pull a vacuum ...really cut the air flow...
I do agree that the on the type of hose and the number of "Y's" etc
between the DC and the machines port make a major difference...
Remember you are really trying to remove very small dust particles you
are NOT attempting to remove LARGE sawdust particles ...
Bob Griffiths
On 29 Nov 2004 13:35:10 -0500, [email protected] (Roy Smith) wrote:
>A while ago, I upgraded from the (much maligned here on the wreck)
>BT-3000 to a Unisaw. In most aspects, I'm happy with the new saw but
>dust collection is a disaster. With the BT-3000, a shopvac stuck on
>the back caught 99% of the dust.
>
>I've got a 650 CFM dust collector connected to the collection port on
>the back of the Unisaw, which does almost no good. Looking at the
>cabinet of the saw, it's easy to see why; there's so many huge holes
>in the cabinet for air leaks.
>
>I've taken off the factory guard, so I can seal up the annular slot in
>the back where the guard mounting bar used to stick out of. Various
>other small bolt holes will be easy to seal up too. The big problem
>is the annular slot in the front where the blade elevating shaft comes
>out. I can't seal that without disabling the blade tilt mechanism.
>
>I'm willing to invest in a better dust collector (I'm leaning towards
>the 2 HP woodsucker cyclone, http://www.woodsucker.com/), but I
>suspect there's not much point if I can't figure out how to
>significantly improve the airflow in the cabinet. How have other
>people dealt with this problem?
a rag held on with magnets. some air gets through, but most of it is
blocked and the tilt mechanism is unaffected. mostly, though it cost
nothing and was quick and painless.