I'm looking at this blade edge much more convex than I want (probably
done with a file, the back is convex too), and am afraid to touch it to
even the 1000x stone.
I have a 220x stone with a cupped side, and cringe at removing material
from it on the surface plate.
Hey... the grinder! Hmm, that has a pretty nice wheel on it, I'd hate to
ruin it. Plus, no jig to hold the blade. I have an ebay blade that has
a blue corner, maybe 3/32, that I have to remove, too.
Oh heck, I'll use the side.
er (learning to not squeeze the stone so hard)
--
email not valid
> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>. For a coarse set, pick up the HF set for $12
> > on sale.
Enoch Root wrote:
> I will consider the coarse set. It doesn't lose its flatness?
it's not too flat to begin with, and the plastic board the diamond
plate is adhered to is pretty flexible. but you're not trying to do
fine work with it, just hog metal off to get the bevel to shape. think
of the HF stones as the step after the bench grinder. lay it on a flat
surface and give it a go. the grits are coarse enough to shape up a
chisel fast, but the edge it will leave isn't really ready for use.
On Thu, 12 Jan 2006 19:53:32 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
Enoch Root <[email protected]> quickly quoth:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> I prefer DMT over Ezelap. For a coarse set, pick up the HF set for $12
>> on sale. Then get fine and extra fine diamond plates for honing.
>> Finish off with a stropping of Veritas green goop on leather.
>
>I will consider the coarse set. It doesn't lose its flatness?
Dunno, I don't have one yet. But they shouldn't. I believe they're
made the same way DMT does theirs, with metal poured around the
diamond paste. They should remain as flat as they're built. Just
don't sharpen 500 same size bits/irons on the same square inch of
plate in one month.
>>>Is it faster than sandpaper on a surface plate? (already have the
>>>surface plate, and a box of wet/dry 120x silicon carbide, and a can of
>>>adhesive... not that 120x is sufficient)
>>
>>
>> Yes, at least twice as much metal removal at the same grit.
>
>That might get me back to where I am with the 220x waterstone.
No, diamond gives you at least double the metal removal of stone.
That's why you have to be careful and only use the coarser stones
when absolutely necessary. Honing on a fine diamond takes just a few
seconds to get the same return a waterstone gives you in several
minutes. Few things in life surpass the efficiency of a diamond plate.
</gushing>
>I'm going to resurface that tonight (two monthes, four plane blade
>rebevels, three #71 router blade reshapes, one marking knife shaping,
>and a 2"x1/4" O-1 Starret plane blade bevel later.) With my left hand
>(the right wrist is sore.)
You could use the cheapie diamond plate to flatten the waterstone.
>I'm resisting the sander, I'm resisting. I can do without it. I like a
>dust-free workspace.
Got a dust collector or shop vac and set of earmuffs/plugs?
Just Do It! And send me that drill press. I'll trade ya for
my HF 8" monster, a whopping $39.99 value!
--
To change one's self is sufficient. It's the idiots who want to change
the world who are causing all the trouble --Anonymous
----------------------------------------------------------------------
www.diversify.com We help you change your website for the better!
On Thu, 12 Jan 2006 10:37:18 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
Enoch Root <[email protected]> quickly quoth:
>Clifford Heath wrote:
>> Enoch Root wrote:
>>
>>> I'm looking at this blade edge much more convex
>>
>> Ditch the stone and get a diamond-crusted block, Ezy-lap or
>> whatever. Stays flat, cuts as fast as a grit several grades
>> coarser.
>
>How much is that in boxes of sandpaper? :)
Five to fifty. 'Nuff said?
Price is about 2 large boxes worth for a 2x6", 3 for a 3x8".
I prefer DMT over Ezelap. For a coarse set, pick up the HF set for $12
on sale. Then get fine and extra fine diamond plates for honing.
Finish off with a stropping of Veritas green goop on leather.
>Is it faster than sandpaper on a surface plate? (already have the
>surface plate, and a box of wet/dry 120x silicon carbide, and a can of
>adhesive... not that 120x is sufficient)
Yes, at least twice as much metal removal at the same grit.
>At this point (wherein I've already spent more than I want to spend on
>maintenance) I think a (diy) jig for the grinder should do it.
Newp. Getchiz wunna them belt sandahs instead. Much handier.
--
To change one's self is sufficient. It's the idiots who want to change
the world who are causing all the trouble --Anonymous
----------------------------------------------------------------------
www.diversify.com We help you change your website for the better!
On Fri, 13 Jan 2006 16:02:51 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Australopithecus scobis <[email protected]> quickly quoth:
>On Fri, 13 Jan 2006 06:14:02 -0800, Larry Jaques opined:
>
>> No, diamond gives you at least double the metal removal of stone.
>> That's why you have to be careful and only use the coarser stones
>> when absolutely necessary. Honing on a fine diamond takes just a few
>> seconds to get the same return a waterstone gives you in several
>> minutes. Few things in life surpass the efficiency of a diamond plate.
>
>Should we qualify this with "of the same grit?" In practice I
>find that my 220x water stone takes metal off faster than my 325x DMT.
It was described that way in the original email.
--
To change one's self is sufficient. It's the idiots who want to change
the world who are causing all the trouble --Anonymous
----------------------------------------------------------------------
www.diversify.com We help you change your website for the better!
> Aykshully, Artist Guy (the one I got the oxy-gas welder from) wants to
> rid himself of a jet 10" disk and 6" belt sander for $250... and a jet
> floor drill press.
>
> I'm resisting the sander, I'm resisting. I can do without it. I like a
> dust-free workspace.
Resistance is futile! Besides, it'll be a good excuse to get a dust
collector too.
Clifford Heath wrote:
> Enoch Root wrote:
>> I'm looking at this blade edge much more convex
>
> Ditch the stone and get a diamond-crusted block, Ezy-lap or
> whatever. Stays flat, cuts as fast as a grit several grades
> coarser.
What he said.
I prefer diamond plates for back lapping and edge shaping, with 4000 and
8000 waterstones for finishing and touching up.
Barry
Clifford Heath wrote:
> Enoch Root wrote:
>
>> I'm looking at this blade edge much more convex
>
>
> Ditch the stone and get a diamond-crusted block, Ezy-lap or
> whatever. Stays flat, cuts as fast as a grit several grades
> coarser.
How much is that in boxes of sandpaper? :)
Is it faster than sandpaper on a surface plate? (already have the
surface plate, and a box of wet/dry 120x silicon carbide, and a can of
adhesive... not that 120x is sufficient)
At this point (wherein I've already spent more than I want to spend on
maintenance) I think a (diy) jig for the grinder should do it.
er
--
email not valid
AAvK wrote:
>>I'm looking at this blade edge much more convex than I want (probably
>>done with a file, the back is convex too), and am afraid to touch it to
>>even the 1000x stone.
>
>
> Kind of sounds like the blade itself is cupped, like a board can become cupped
> from atmospheric moisture? Or is that called condensation?
No, it's convex on both top and back (near the edge), and (of course)
the edge. A result of whatever sharpening method was used on it before
I got it.
> When finished honing on the finer grits and you're done, bring the blade back to
> 220 just to very slightly round the corners of the cutting edge. Ever so slightly
> though, and sideways, not top to bottom.
Are you saying to run the blade over the stone on its narrow side?
>>I have a 220x stone with a cupped side, and cringe at removing material
>>from it on the surface plate.
>
>
> Definitely do it, it's no good otherwise.
Yeah I'm just pushing my stinginess to neurotic levels for the sake of
the humor.
I'll do anything for laughs, even if I'm the only one laughing.
>>Hey... the grinder! Hmm, that has a pretty nice wheel on it, I'd hate to
>>ruin it. Plus, no jig to hold the blade. I have an ebay blade that has
>>a blue corner, maybe 3/32, that I have to remove, too.
>>
>>Oh heck, I'll use the side.
>
>
> Go to a junk shop with a back yard, find a thick piece of float glass and buy
> it, buy a pack of Norton aluminum oxide yellow paper (NOT a house
> name of standard garnet, brown/orange) and a can of 3M super 77 and do the
> 'scary sharp' thing, it'll work well to square your blades, and cheap. This is
> good to have, even if you have stones.
A Grade A surface plate is in my possession, but what does AlOx have
over silicon carbide? The 120x doesn't seem to remove material as fast
as the 220x waterstone.
As I said elsewhere, I think I just need to set up the grinder.
er
--
email not valid
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Thu, 12 Jan 2006 10:37:18 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
> Enoch Root <[email protected]> quickly quoth:
>>How much is that in boxes of sandpaper? :)
>
>
> Five to fifty. 'Nuff said?
>
> Price is about 2 large boxes worth for a 2x6", 3 for a 3x8".
>
> I prefer DMT over Ezelap. For a coarse set, pick up the HF set for $12
> on sale. Then get fine and extra fine diamond plates for honing.
> Finish off with a stropping of Veritas green goop on leather.
I will consider the coarse set. It doesn't lose its flatness?
>>Is it faster than sandpaper on a surface plate? (already have the
>>surface plate, and a box of wet/dry 120x silicon carbide, and a can of
>>adhesive... not that 120x is sufficient)
>
>
> Yes, at least twice as much metal removal at the same grit.
That might get me back to where I am with the 220x waterstone.
I'm going to resurface that tonight (two monthes, four plane blade
rebevels, three #71 router blade reshapes, one marking knife shaping,
and a 2"x1/4" O-1 Starret plane blade bevel later.) With my left hand
(the right wrist is sore.)
>>At this point (wherein I've already spent more than I want to spend on
>>maintenance) I think a (diy) jig for the grinder should do it.
>
>
> Newp. Getchiz wunna them belt sandahs instead. Much handier.
Aykshully, Artist Guy (the one I got the oxy-gas welder from) wants to
rid himself of a jet 10" disk and 6" belt sander for $250... and a jet
floor drill press.
I'm resisting the sander, I'm resisting. I can do without it. I like a
dust-free workspace.
er
--
email not valid
AAvK wrote:
>>I'm looking at this blade edge much more convex than I want (probably
>>done with a file, the back is convex too), and am afraid to touch it to
>>even the 1000x stone.
> In either case, don't bear down hard when sharpening...
Too late. Woke up with a lame wrist.
Second night in a row rehabilitating old metal. (And the night before
that the edge on my newly hardened 2"x1/4" home job.)
er
--
email not valid
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Thu, 12 Jan 2006 19:53:32 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
> Enoch Root <[email protected]> quickly quoth:
>>I will consider the coarse set. It doesn't lose its flatness?
>
>
> Dunno, I don't have one yet. But they shouldn't. I believe they're
> made the same way DMT does theirs, with metal poured around the
> diamond paste. They should remain as flat as they're built. Just
> don't sharpen 500 same size bits/irons on the same square inch of
> plate in one month.
My wrist is throbbing at the very idea.
>>That might get me back to where I am with the 220x waterstone.
>
>
> No, diamond gives you at least double the metal removal of stone.
> That's why you have to be careful and only use the coarser stones
> when absolutely necessary. Honing on a fine diamond takes just a few
> seconds to get the same return a waterstone gives you in several
> minutes. Few things in life surpass the efficiency of a diamond plate.
> </gushing>
I think I might try it for roughing out the bevel... I don't have any
issues with the finer stones for now. The rough ones, though, lose
material too fast, cup if you are using it on narrow blades, and aren't
fast enough to do a lot of rough work.
>>I'm going to resurface that tonight (two monthes, four plane blade
>>rebevels, three #71 router blade reshapes, one marking knife shaping,
>>and a 2"x1/4" O-1 Starret plane blade bevel later.) With my left hand
>>(the right wrist is sore.)
>
>
> You could use the cheapie diamond plate to flatten the waterstone.
I didn't let the stone dry completely before rubbing it on a sheet of
120x spray-glued on a granite plate (last night). The paper loaded up
fast, but it was still effective. Plus I could use the heel of my
palms, so no pain.
>>I'm resisting the sander, I'm resisting. I can do without it. I like a
>>dust-free workspace.
>
>
> Got a dust collector or shop vac and set of earmuffs/plugs?
> Just Do It! And send me that drill press. I'll trade ya for
> my HF 8" monster, a whopping $39.99 value!
It's a nice drill press: the speed is variable to 60rpm (I recall him
saying) which is very nice for working with steel. I will prefer that
over the sander, but he talks about dumping the sander more. Still on
warranty, but too small for his needs, blah.
er
--
email not valid
> I'm looking at this blade edge much more convex than I want (probably
> done with a file, the back is convex too), and am afraid to touch it to
> even the 1000x stone.
Kind of sounds like the blade itself is cupped, like a board can become cupped
from atmospheric moisture? Or is that called condensation?
In either case, don't bear down hard when sharpening, a little pressure yeah, but
mostly let the stone do the work. Use your fingers to keep even pressure on both
sides of the blade, otherwise it will skew. You want it 90º square on both corners.
When finished honing on the finer grits and you're done, bring the blade back to
220 just to very slightly round the corners of the cutting edge. Ever so slightly
though, and sideways, not top to bottom.
> I have a 220x stone with a cupped side, and cringe at removing material
> from it on the surface plate.
Definitely do it, it's no good otherwise.
> Hey... the grinder! Hmm, that has a pretty nice wheel on it, I'd hate to
> ruin it. Plus, no jig to hold the blade. I have an ebay blade that has
> a blue corner, maybe 3/32, that I have to remove, too.
>
> Oh heck, I'll use the side.
Go to a junk shop with a back yard, find a thick piece of float glass and buy
it, buy a pack of Norton aluminum oxide yellow paper (NOT a house
name of standard garnet, brown/orange) and a can of 3M super 77 and do the
'scary sharp' thing, it'll work well to square your blades, and cheap. This is
good to have, even if you have stones.
> er (learning to not squeeze the stone so hard)
> --
> email not valid
I don't mean to sound terse or blunt... I just... feel like a brick. Sorry.
--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
On Fri, 13 Jan 2006 06:14:02 -0800, Larry Jaques opined:
> No, diamond gives you at least double the metal removal of stone.
> That's why you have to be careful and only use the coarser stones
> when absolutely necessary. Honing on a fine diamond takes just a few
> seconds to get the same return a waterstone gives you in several
> minutes. Few things in life surpass the efficiency of a diamond plate.
Should we qualify this with "of the same grit?" In practice I
find that my 220x water stone takes metal off faster than my 325x DMT.
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
wreck20051219 at spambob.net
Tim and Steph wrote:
>>Aykshully, Artist Guy (the one I got the oxy-gas welder from) wants to
>>rid himself of a jet 10" disk and 6" belt sander for $250... and a jet
>>floor drill press.
>>
>>I'm resisting the sander, I'm resisting. I can do without it. I like a
>>dust-free workspace.
>
>
> Resistance is futile! Besides, it'll be a good excuse to get a dust
> collector too.
Or a wet/dry vac. I need that anyway. But I've already got a metal
lathe and a metal bandsaw on the list. And space. Need a bigger one.
I was hoping Santa'd send me one. But I got a dog kit and a IOU for a
dog, instead. Hope my cat understands.
er
--
email not valid