I'm building a hanging bookshelf out of 3/4 birch plywood.
My shelf depth is almost 12" and the width is about 33". I'm also
glueing and nailing 1x2 poplar strips on the front to make the shelves
look a little beefier and to make them more sturdy. Is this enough to
keep them from sagging?
I also plan on nailing on the backing directly into the backs of the
shelves just for a litlre mor hold.
Thanks
On Feb 21, 3:22 pm, "rolsonDesign" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm building a hanging bookshelf out of 3/4 birch plywood.
>
> My shelf depth is almost 12" and the width is about 33". I'm also
> glueing and nailing 1x2 poplar strips on the front to make the shelves
> look a little beefier and to make them more sturdy. Is this enough to
> keep them from sagging?
>
> I also plan on nailing on the backing directly into the backs of the
> shelves just for a litlre mor hold.
>
> Thanks
Depends on what you want to put on the shelves. For books, I think
3/4" will be adequate for a 33" span.
If you are using a 1x2 in front, as long as it is standing on its
shorter edge, it will help add to the capacity. Apart from giving you
some shear resistance, I doubt nailing the backing will do anything to
improve loading.
On Feb 21, 3:22 pm, "rolsonDesign" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm building a hanging bookshelf out of 3/4 birch plywood.
>
> My shelf depth is almost 12" and the width is about 33". I'm also
> glueing and nailing 1x2 poplar strips on the front to make the shelves
> look a little beefier and to make them more sturdy. Is this enough to
> keep them from sagging?
>
> I also plan on nailing on the backing directly into the backs of the
> shelves just for a litlre mor hold.
>
> Thanks
Depends on what you want to put on the shelves. For books, I think
3/4" will be adequate for a 33" span.
If you are using a 1x2 in front, as long as it is standing on its
shorter edge, it will help add to the capacity. Apart from giving you
some shear resistance, I doubt nailing the backing will do anything to
improve loading.
Come on this is too easy.
Try http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm
I can't believe of all the times I've seen this link posted, this time
I get to post it.
On Feb 21, 1:22 pm, "rolsonDesign" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm building a hanging bookshelf out of 3/4 birch plywood.
>
> My shelf depth is almost 12" and the width is about 33". I'm also
> glueing and nailing 1x2 poplar strips on the front to make the shelves
> look a little beefier and to make them more sturdy. Is this enough to
> keep them from sagging?
>
> I also plan on nailing on the backing directly into the backs of the
> shelves just for a litlre mor hold.
>
> Thanks
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> Come on this is too easy.
>
> Try http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm
>
> I can't believe of all the times I've seen this link posted, this time
> I get to post it.
>
>
You got here about 30 minutes ahead of me. :-)
Bill
--
Make yourself an honest man, and then you may be sure that there is one
rascal less in the world.
Thomas Carlyle (1795 - 1881)
http://nmwoodworks.com
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"rolsonDesign" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm building a hanging bookshelf out of 3/4 birch plywood.
>
> My shelf depth is almost 12" and the width is about 33". I'm also
> glueing and nailing 1x2 poplar strips on the front to make the shelves
> look a little beefier and to make them more sturdy. Is this enough to
> keep them from sagging?
>
> I also plan on nailing on the backing directly into the backs of the
> shelves just for a litlre mor hold.
>
> Thanks
>
I made a top for a built in desk about 30 years ago which featured the same
basic design. However, the span on mine is 48 inches.
The top is very solid indeed. The 1/4 inch backing is very strong in the
vertical direction.
So, I doubt that you will have trouble.
Jim